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Tikka T3 Thread

sommers said:
Glades Armory makes a swept handle too. I've got a Sterk on the way and a Glades, so I'll be able to compare them shortly.
Click to expand...

Nice I'll be interested to hear what you think, I'm a little hesitant to spend any money with Glades because of what seems like some questionable customer service and guys getting burned but maybe they've sorted it.

The Anarchy one is okay, my buddy has one on his Bravo'd CTR but I don't love it. It's better than the stock T3X lite handle but I wanted to try something else before settling with that one.
 
Alright, I just placed an order with Lumley outdoors. They seem to be the importers in America of the Australian made bolt handles on eBay.

Kinda weird my browser said they're site is not secure, whatever that means.

$66 shipped, we'll see if I get it...

http://lumleyarms.us/#a
 
MountainHunter said:
Alright, I just placed an order with Lumley outdoors. They seem to be the importers in America of the Australian made bolt handles on eBay.

Kinda weird my browser said they're site is not secure, whatever that means.

$66 shipped, we'll see if I get it...

http://lumleyarms.us/#a
Click to expand...


I used to have one of their handles on my deer rifle, was good, really handy to grab for a quick follow up shot, but I found that I knocked it upward all the time, not enough to disengage the bolt, but enough to annoy me.
 
MountainHunter said:
Kinda weird my browser said they're site is not secure, whatever that means.
Click to expand...

It means a Nigerian prince is going to be emailing you with instructions to help him get his fortune out of the country. If you send him your bank account information he will reward you handsomely.
 
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Thunderhorse said:
It means a Nigerian prince is going to be emailing you with instructions to help him get his fortune out of the country. If you send his your bank account information he will reward you handsomely.
Click to expand...

Hahaha yeah that or just more tele-market calls to add to the 10 I already get everyday anyways.
 
I received my Sterk swept bolt handle today, i got it on my both rigs, and i must say i really love those swept bolt handles, so well made and it is better that i have ever tryed, and i have tryed them many.
And it looks very good too.
 
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Vapor6 said:
How often does Sterk do orders for the bolt knobs?
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I (Sterk) try for every 6 months - as @tevan0707 mentioned. The last batch was exactly 6 months ago, the current batch im sending out looks like pre-orders have taken everything (still sending parts out) and the next batch may be even sooner. Until it's a full-time thing the 6 month cycle seems to be how it works out.
 
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Ordered everything to reconfigure my bipod setup today: I am going from a Harris 1A2-LM 9-13" leg notch w/o swivel to a Harris S-LM, which is the same 9-13" leg notch bipod, just with the swivel head. I also ordered the Harris direct mount from KRG to mount directly to my spigot instead of using a swivel stud, but without adding the height of a rail adapter. Lastly I got a polymer arm pod-lock for it which I think installs at the same time as the KRG adapter.

Pics to follow once its here and installed
 
strat81 said:
Anyone have a T3x beavertail forend that they'd be interested in selling?
Click to expand...

I have the original stock to my T3 Varmint with the beavertail forend and non adjustable cheek riser. Its an older model from 2007 but my Tikka is in a chassis now so I'm not going to use it. I'll let it go cheap.
 
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Which factory ammo are you guys using in your CTR 24” 6.5 CM? I was planning to buy a case of Prime but I am told they are back ordered 90 days. Just looking to bang steel.
 
Got my new Bugnut setup delivered and installed. Too bad I won't be able to shoot it until Sunday at the earliest and only if I'm lucky. The whole setup was quite easy to set up and complete with the right tools. Proper preparation is the key to success.

1. PB blaster or Liquid Wrench 3 days prior to removing the factory Tikka barrel will greatly increase the odds you can take the barrel off without issues. One good whack with a dead blow hammer and the Brownells universal action wrench and it made a nice snap and came loose. Slowly torquing the barrel doesn't seem to work as well as a sharp blow.

2. Use heat to remove the picatinny rail screws and the rail. Green goo is used on the CTR to bond the screws and rail to the action. Neither will come loose without heat (you WILL break the screw or driver without heat). A clothing iron works well to put enough heat to soften the adhesive. Soldering irons generally cannot transfer enough heat. Alternatively (and what I used this time) use a propane torch for a few seconds on the screws.

3. Rosin. Available at sporting goods stores in the baseball section. Sprinkle some on your barrel to give a little more friction to avoid slippage. I used a Viper barrel vise made of annodized alumimum. Tighten the bolts evenly and tightly.


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Barrel during the install. During removal the barrel vise is much closer to action.

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The finished product.
 
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I receive my bugnut barrel yesterday too. Very nice work from bugholes.
Taking off factory barrel was a breeze using the right tools (we took off two different SS barrels using the same tools) Wheeler wrench #1 and Wally Cooper vise, no liquid wrench, no rosin, no waiting time, no heat. Press hard the barrel with the vise, put the wrench on the action and a couple of hard strikes with a mallet and the barrels went off easily.
 
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Vapor6 said:
Which factory ammo are you guys using in your CTR 24” 6.5 CM? I was planning to buy a case of Prime but I am told they are back ordered 90 days. Just looking to bang steel.
Click to expand...
Hornady American Gunner 140gr BTHP shoots 1 MOA or better in my 6.5CM CTR and 6.5CM Ruger Predator.

AmmoSeek.com shows a few vendors where you can get it for under 70 cents per round.

1x fired brass is selling for 30-35 cents per round. Make for some pretty cheap shooting.
 
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Vapor6 said:
Which factory ammo are you guys using in your CTR 24” 6.5 CM? I was planning to buy a case of Prime but I am told they are back ordered 90 days. Just looking to bang steel.
Click to expand...

I have a 24" SS CTR in that caliber also.
I tried a handful, my best grouping was Federal Gold medal Sierra match kings 140 grain. Gave me less than half MOA at 200 yards. I am loading my own now using Sierra match king 142 grain bullets because of that and doing very well at 10/1000 off the lands.
 
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strat81 said:
Hornady American Gunner 140gr BTHP shoots 1 MOA or better in my 6.5CM CTR and 6.5CM Ruger Predator.

AmmoSeek.com shows a few vendors where you can get it for under 70 cents per round.

1x fired brass is selling for 30-35 cents per round. Make for some pretty cheap shooting.
Click to expand...
That’s exactly the ammo I’ve been looking at. Was hoping
patriotnation said:
I have a 24" SS CTR in that caliber also.
I tried a handful, my best grouping was Federal Gold medal Sierra match kings 140 grain. Gave me less than half MOA at 200 yards. I am loading my own now using Sierra match king 142 grain bullets because of that and doing very well at 10/1000 off the lands.[/QUOTE
Would you mind if I ask your load data?
Click to expand...
 
I use 40.7 grains of H-4350 with Alpha small rifle primer brass, CCI 450 magnum primers, 142 Sierra HPBT MK bullets, 10/1000" off the lands. I used the method on youtube that was posted on this site finding exactly where the lands are, it works great, way better results than I got with that Horandy modifed case method. One third MOA at 300 yards 5 shots. It got me a win at 300 yards in an egg shoot Sunday with tough mirage to deal with. I just got the rifle in March and have been shooting it as it came but with a Mountain Tactical trigger spring. Today I am expecting a Bravo stock to show up so I have that to look forward to next shooting. Good luck
 
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Holy smoke, Timney 2-stage trigger is awesome, just awesome.
Really dig this trigger, it is just so good.
I did add a few layers of heat shrink tube for the trigger, to add the size a bit and make the grip better.
Ther is no same kind of grooves on the trigger like it has on the Tikka, but that is no lack at all.
triggers.jpg

 
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Vapor6 said:
Which factory ammo are you guys using in your CTR 24” 6.5 CM? I was planning to buy a case of Prime but I am told they are back ordered 90 days. Just looking to bang steel.
Click to expand...

You might try the Hornady american gunner, 200 140 HPBT for about $130 at Sportsman's Warehouse.
 
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I got the Lumley bolt handle in today. I’m pretty stoked on the feel of the bolt throw with it.

Only issue I had was the mating surface with the bolt was way tighter than the factory bolt handle. It was so tight that I ended up having to sand down the sides to get it into the bolt.

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I'm quite new and here is some background about me.

I have a very small budget tikka long range build going on. I found a really nice T3 without X CTR 260rem 20" barrel and bought it right away. The price was really good and it is in mint condition. Only upgrades so far are Tikka oem t3x metallic bolt shroud, steel recoil lug and new recoil pad. I found them for very cheap. With the CTR I got SFP Burris scope which I traded to Falcon Optics M18+ 4-18×44 scope.

At this point I'm quite happy with my rifle but scope installation is way too high and I need some cheek support. It's high due that I will upgrade the scope to Steiner M5xi or S&B PMII at some point and that scope will need higher legs than current Falcon so it's same to get used to it already. I already found a good deal of Spuhr SP-4602 from eBay and got it. My options for cheek support at this point are Tikka T3X oem adjustable stock or adding kalix teknik to my current stock.

And then there is this third option which would blow my budget but might be the best option. I would love to replace current stock with some nice chassis. MDT LSS XL is my favourite except that it uses AICS mags and I really love CTR's TRG mags. My CTR is very early version and it came with TRG-21 mag instead of CTR mag that won't fit to TRG. Then there is this mcree G10/TSR-1 stock. I don't like this bubble gate and how they handled it, but mcree chassis would let me keep my beloved CTR mags so I might have to start keeping my eyes open for reasonably priced TSR-1 chassis. I was just wondering that how long is folded TSR-1 with 20" barrel We have quite tight restrictions here in Finland and rifle needs to be over 840mm which is a bit over 33". I'm pretty sure that TSR-1 is too short so can I replace the folding stock attachment with mcree carbine stock mount and pick some nice fixed stock? Of course I could buy carbine version but somehow I like Tikka branded version.

My original idea was to buy a Tac A1 but this CRT was too good deal to miss. It was maybe 1/5 of the price of new Tac A1 after counting out the scope, suppressor and some others items that were included. A decent bargain!

Here is a pic of my all black (and it will stay that way) Tikka. The scope indeed is way too high but I will get used to it :)

VpsMc7mMTo27som83WyT%Q.jpg
 
I would look heavily at the KRG Bravo, for your needs. Lots of guys running them on their Tikkas. You will still need to run AICS mags, though. Only other option is to get a manners at Euro Optics. They just became available (t4a) so act fast. That will use the ctr mags. I run a T4A on my CTR and love it!
 
Lunchbox27 said:
I would look heavily at the KRG Bravo, for your needs. Lots of guys running them on their Tikkas. You will still need to run AICS mags, though. Only other option is to get a manners at Euro Optics. They just became available (t4a) so act fast. That will use the ctr mags. I run a T4A on my CTR and love it!
Click to expand...

To add to this, there are a couple guys who are running KRG chassis-to include Bravos-and had them inletted to work with CTR mags. You just need to find a gunsmith to do it, and then swap in the TRG mag catch instead of the AICS one it comes with. My Tikka isn't a CTR so it came with the skinny overpriced Tikka single stack mags that cost as much as an AICS, so I had no incentive to modify mine for CTR mags but it is an option
 
But is the original stock really that bad? What features do you get if you upgrade to the Bravo? The original stock can be upgraded with adjustable cheek riser and it has a nice grip for your firing hand. Why go for Bravo chassi? What feature do you need?

I'm getting a CTR in a couple of weeks (also European so I'm waiting for my license for this new rifle) and I'm planning on keeping the stock. They're quite comfortable and I can do some mechanical trickery and cheating to mount a nice bipod on it.
 
762libertarian said:
But is the original stock really that bad? What features do you get if you upgrade to the Bravo? The original stock can be upgraded with adjustable cheek riser and it has a nice grip for your firing hand. Why go for Bravo chassi? What feature do you need?

I'm getting a CTR in a couple of weeks (also European so I'm waiting for my license for this new rifle) and I'm planning on keeping the stock. They're quite comfortable and I can do some mechanical trickery and cheating to mount a nice bipod on it.
Click to expand...
Is the factory stock really that bad? The answer of this question is very subjective, some will say it is, others don't.
Is the Bravo chassis an upgrade over the factory stock? Sure it is, with it you'll get a backbone with a radious bedding system, a forend with M-Lock slots, adjustable cheekpiece and LOP, QD cup slots, etc for less than $400
It's worth it? That's up to you. I have one on one of my Tikkas.
 
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For me there is three drawbacks in factory stock. First is obviously cheek support which is easy to fix. Second is that I need a more upwards grip when shooting from prone position. KRG bravo would be a huge improvement for that or any pistol grip chassis for which I could pick any grip I wish. T3X factory stock could be a slight improvement because of replaceable pistol grip. Third is that I'm a bit worried how stiff is the front end of the factory stock is for bipod use. Mine is a free floater and I'm happy about it! I will trade the suppressor that came with the CTR to a lot bigger one so I really hope that the barrel doesn't touch the stock at any point.

KRG Bravo is great looking stock. I haven't tried it but I have shot few shots with TRG and it looks quite the same. I don't know if it's easier to make KRG Bravo to use TRG mags or put CTR to TRG stock. But KRG Bravo is definitely one option!

At this point I guess that I will improve the factory stock cheek support and keep it as a spare stock and for hunting and take my time to find the best chassis that accept AR-15 pistol grips and buttstocks.

Which is the best cheek support in your opinion? I was thinking about kalix teknik, but it's a bit on the pricey side. It costs almost the same than used adjustable T3X factory stock if you find one and with that you might have a better grip also.

And which is the best swivel stud to picatinny adapter for CTR factory stock? I have a Harris like bipod but I'll put it in to my rimfire when I find a good picatinny bipod for CTR. In my opinion swivel stud is for slings and picatinny is for equipments even thought I don't have too many arguments for that :)

Is the any possibility to buy a used stock from USA and export it to Europe? I read something about ITAR and how it makes exports complicated.
 
762libertarian said:
But is the original stock really that bad? What features do you get if you upgrade to the Bravo? The original stock can be upgraded with adjustable cheek riser and it has a nice grip for your firing hand. Why go for Bravo chassi? What feature do you need?

I'm getting a CTR in a couple of weeks (also European so I'm waiting for my license for this new rifle) and I'm planning on keeping the stock. They're quite comfortable and I can do some mechanical trickery and cheating to mount a nice bipod on it.
Click to expand...

Its up to the shooter to determine if the original stock is really that "good or bad". For me, it didn't offer a good cheek weld, the grip was not vertical enough and it placed your hand to far back from the trigger making you reach for the trigger. I put a beavertail fore end on it as well and it did ad some stability off of obstacles, but the fore end had to much flex and it would touch the barrel. I could have stiffened the fore end but I had a Mcmillan for it anyway. My CTR stock is now my in between stock for whenever I get a new tikka and its awaiting a Mcmillan stock.
 
The original Tikka stock to me is more of a hunting type stock. The cheek riser has enough height for most 3-9X40s and the swept wrist is more comfortable for shooting standing or kneeling. I shot mine for years off a bipod with the original stock so I wouldn't be concerned with that at all.

The best thing about the KRG from a stock replacement perspective is the adjustable length of pull, cheek height, and buttpad height. Then you also get the rigid spine that everything attaches to which allows for a much more solid attachment of accessories
 
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I'm not sure where is the proper place to post equipment review but since this is Tikka related...

I located a vendor that manufactures 5/10rd ammo pouches for the AICS, TRG, etc., and asked if they would provide a pouch for the Tikka T3x TAC A1 magazine (S54065122). Well, Sunrise Tactical Gear stepped up to the plate and bought the actual Tikka 10-rd magazine to develop a prototype. Even though I don't have the rifle yet, I bought two of them. They fit my AR15 5/10 rd magazine very well with the expected space on three sides of the pouch, so they should properly fit the Tikka. Most importantly, the shorter magazine are not lost in the pouch nor do I have to insert foam rubber. Since I haven't an on-hand Tikka magazine to test, I'll provide an update at a later date. Instead of providing more detailed info, here is a link to the website and some photos.

https://www.sunrisetacticalgear.com/Sako-TRG-22-mag-pouch-also-AW-10-round-mag-0111011.htm
 

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Very happy with my new Southern Precision Rifles Bugnut barrel setup. These are the first sighting in shots through the barrel. The bottom two were from 50 yd sight in. The next two directly above those two are also from 50 yds but scope adjusted. The lone shot at the top of the square is from 100 yds. The rest near the center are all shot from 100yds. Not bad for shooting off of a wooden block instead of a bipod or bag and ammo made for my 20" Tikka barrel. Average velocity was 2956 for 130 RDF bullets in Lapua Brass. My barrel is just a hair too big in diameter to fit the TRG bipod in and not touch the barrel. So now I'm looking for a bipod that will set low like the TRG but mount from either the spigot mount or sling stud.

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coltm4 said:
Would you mind posting more pictures that explain how the bipod mounts?
Click to expand...

Those are all the pics I took of it so far; my wife's SUV is in the way of the gun safe so I'll try and get some more, but I think the KRG website has some good pics that explain it:

https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/harris-mount/

Basically the same rod that you remove the knurled nut from when you install a pod-loc slides out which allows the sling stud mount carriage to come off, and the bipod slides through the loop on the direct mount adapter
 
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Thunderhorse said:
Those are all the pics I took of it so far; my wife's SUV is in the way of the gun safe so I'll try and get some more, but I think the KRG website has some good pics that explain it:

https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/harris-mount/

Basically the same rod that you remove the knurled nut from when you install a pod-loc slides out which allows the sling stud mount carriage to come off, and the bipod slides through the loop on the direct mount adapter
Click to expand...

Thanks. I had to look up there were two different types of Harris Bipods for that to make sense. I think this is what i will have to get if I want to keep my current barrel.
 
Does the tikka firing pin need to be bushed to shoot small primer brass? I’ve never heard anyone mention it before but just want to be sure
 
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