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Tikka T3 Thread

stupid n00b question: is it as easy as changing out a barrel from 6.5 manbun to say 6br to change calibers in my T3X?

Yes, I did search and no, I didn't see that question asked.

I figure I'll need the spacer kit for the mags too

thanks

M
 
stupid n00b question: is it as easy as changing out a barrel from 6.5 manbun to say 6br to change calibers in my T3X?
you'll need to make sure the bolt face is the same. look thru the tikka page at jaoutdoors.com, also probably in this thread somewhere. then you just get the correct (internal) length magazine and bolt stop, if necessary.
 
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How do you like the waterman mags? I am thinking of ordering a couple to use in my t3x 6arc.

They’re legit. Work great in my .223 with long OAL. Wouldn’t hesitate to recommend them, but be prepared to order at least 2-3… he doesn’t like to ship single mags at a time because post from Australia is expensive.
 
They’re legit. Work great in my .223 with long OAL. Wouldn’t hesitate to recommend them, but be prepared to order at least 2-3… he doesn’t like to ship single mags at a time because post from Australia is expensive.
No problem there, my only other option is to buy an aics bottom metal and aics mags to use the 6arc with the factory t3x stock, which would likely cost about the same. Maybe a hair less, but using factory bottom metal seems more convenient. Thanks!
 
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Tikka T3 .300 wsm.jpg
 
stupid n00b question: is it as easy as changing out a barrel from 6.5 manbun to say 6br to change calibers in my T3X?

Yes, I did search and no, I didn't see that question asked.

I figure I'll need the spacer kit for the mags too

thanks

M
The cartridges share the same base/rim diameter, or close enough, so bolts should work.

6BR, even the longer throated 6mm Norma BR, for longer bullets, is a significantly shorter round than 6.5 CM. Not sure if that would cause issues with feeding.
 
How do you like the waterman mags? I am thinking of ordering a couple to use in my t3x 6arc.
I rate them very highly ( mine is .223 and I have no experience with other calibre’s )
They are worth the money in my opinion because they work perfectly and fit without any other modifications so you can still use the factory mags if you want . They feed shorter factory length cartridges without issue, but allow you to also load 80gr eldm etc .
What’s not to like 👍
 
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How do you like the waterman mags? I am thinking of ordering a couple to use in my t3x 6arc.
I've got a couple of the WSM mags for a 7 saum and 6.5 PRC. I bought a couple to try with his bottom metal to use the MDT 3.56 AICS mags. Also bought the red snake tactical BM to try with full size mags. The waters mags feed the best out of those three options.
 
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Turns out “trim the bolt stop back” was the answer.

T3 ceracoated sporter in 308, 20” barrel, sporter stock modified to take CTR bottom metal and CTR mags and with a cheek rest swiped off of a CTR stock. SWFA 6x MQ in Sportsmatch rings, ASR brake.

May put a LPVO on it, we’ll see.

The cheek rest makes a material positive difference in scope alignment with my eye.

My “General Purpose Rifle.”

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I built a 6mm Creedmoor with a PVA “Tikkage” barrel. First outing was great, first round this weekend was a stuck case. Banged the bolt to try to get the case free. The back of the bolt body (behind the bolt handle) cracked and the firing pin assembly flew out.

Is there anyway to repair the bolt body? weld the crack? will it hold?

I tried high tinsel strength JB weld, and it broke again in minutes.

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I built a 6mm Creedmoor with a PVA “Tikkage” barrel. First outing was great, first round this weekend was a stuck case. Banged the bolt to try to get the case free. The back of the bolt body (behind the bolt handle) cracked and the firing pin assembly flew out.

Is there anyway to repair the bolt body? weld the crack? will it hold?

I tried high tinsel strength JB weld, and it broke again in minutes.

230423.jpg

230422.jpg

230421.jpg
Been fixed before. Happened to @clcustom1911.
 
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I built a 6mm Creedmoor with a PVA “Tikkage” barrel. First outing was great, first round this weekend was a stuck case. Banged the bolt to try to get the case free. The back of the bolt body (behind the bolt handle) cracked and the firing pin assembly flew out.

Is there anyway to repair the bolt body? weld the crack? will it hold?

I tried high tinsel strength JB weld, and it broke again in minutes.

230423.jpg

230422.jpg

230421.jpg
Yup. You gotta find a place that does "micro TIG" welding.

Don't know where you are, but I took mine to https://bndprecision.com/

Screenshot_20230807_174443_Chrome.jpg
 
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I built a 6mm Creedmoor with a PVA “Tikkage” barrel. First outing was great, first round this weekend was a stuck case. Banged the bolt to try to get the case free. The back of the bolt body (behind the bolt handle) cracked and the firing pin assembly flew out.

Is there anyway to repair the bolt body? weld the crack? will it hold?

I tried high tinsel strength JB weld, and it broke again in minutes.

230423.jpg

230422.jpg

230421.jpg
I would be contacting Berretta. But probably using a photo with the OEM bolt handle…
 
Been asked about making the Sporter stock
work with the CTR bottom metal.

Hour with a dremmel. Hardest part was opening the well to fit the CTR mags.

Also, note the “doughnuts” where the action screws go through the plastic bottom metal? You have to recreate that standoff with washers.

I dinked with it until I had the depth right, then JB welded the washers to that CTR bottom metal.

Easier button get a CTR stock, put styrofoam in the forend to fill the voids, and bed the forend to fit the sporter barrel. Also about an hour’s work.
 
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Question: anyone go back to the factory CTR stock from an aftermarket chassis like the Bravo? The Bravo I’ve got is great for the bench, but ergonomically not what I want in a hunting rifle. The CTR stock is lighter and feels more like a hunting stock should feel.
 
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Question: anyone go back to the factory CTR stock from an aftermarket chassis like the Bravo? The Bravo I’ve got is great for the bench, but ergonomically not what I want in a hunting rifle. The CTR stock is lighter and feels more like a hunting stock should feel.
I prefer UPR for hunting. It's lightweight with good ergos
 
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Seeking advice on 7 PRC on a Tikka action. I started a thread below:

 
Going down to our property this weekend so thought I'd take the Tikka trio and give them all a run on some targets to confirm their loads/zero's etc .

Top - T3 .223 Lite in Super Varmint stock , Waters Mag , alloy bottom metal .
Middle - T3x 6.5CM Lite ( 20" barrel ) in CTR stock .
T1x - 22lr with barrel tuner .
The Centerfire's are carried more than they are shot , hence the Lite barrels which makes things easier as the miles goes past .

h4HOsD5.jpg
 
I have a KRG Bravo that I purchased from a member here, for the Tikka CTR.

The forend slides forward when the rifle is in the stock. Not the screw in the rear, that's tight.

Just the lower part of the forend.

Is it missing a screw internally or?
IMG_4246.jpeg
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View attachment 8204736



How to open it, I have tried it and it is very hard to open it

Castle nut wrench should do the trick nicely

Seems like it, but no, they are glued shut on the Tac A1. The pain in the ass really occurs when a screw comes loose, making the stock wobbly, and it’s only able to be accessed from behind the hinged part.….fuckin sucked. They aren’t meant to come apart and Tikka wanted me to send the rifle back to replace the stock. A shop got it off with a lot of heat and tools.

mine became loose here. Those two parts are connected by a screw. And the head of the screw is behind the plate of the hinge
.
IMG_1017.jpeg
 
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Question: anyone go back to the factory CTR stock from an aftermarket chassis like the Bravo? The Bravo I’ve got is great for the bench, but ergonomically not what I want in a hunting rifle. The CTR stock is lighter and feels more like a hunting stock should feel.
I’ve pulled CTR actions out of Bravos to go into T3X lite stocks for hunting before. Didn’t need the 10 round mag and saved some weight. If you do that you’ll need to sand the barrel channel but it’s easy. Or just use the original CTR stock.
 
I prefer UPR for hunting. It's lightweight with good ergos
Curious what does your weigh with scope and rings? got to be about the same weight as a t3x lite in a bravo no? Mine is 10lbs with a 24 oz scope and 24 in barrel. Not great but not terrible either, the tradeoff is worth it imo for better egos and shot spotting.
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Would someone point me in the right direction
I need a prefit positive pitch recoilpad shim for a Tikka T3X
The goal is to get the recoil pad square to the direction of recoil
Thanks for your help in advance
 
My eyes might need to be wire brushed. I've read every page of this thread.

The hype is well deserved. I recently acquired a CTR in .308 and this rifle is constantly 1/2 moa with federal GMM 168gr. It even does around a minute with cheap freedom munitions 147gr. Impressive to say the least. Also helps that I got a screaming deal on it - new - from a LGS.

I'm hooked. Now I need on in 223 and 6.5cm.

God bless America. And Finland
 
Hey folks,

new member here based in Germany. I use my Tikka T3X CTR .308WIN 20" for hunting and sporting purpose.

Changes so far:

Swapped the factory stock for a GRS Bifrost
Swapped the factory bottom metal for an Atlasworxs DBM to be able to use them AICS mags
Putted an ASE Utra brake onto it and combined this with an ASE Utra SL7i silencer.
Scope is an Athlon Optics ARES BTR 2,5-15x50 FFP MIL.
Throw a magpul bipod to the front.

I am very, very happy with this setup so far. Stock's ergonomics are superb.

I use a handload with Hornady ELD-X 178grains, but in Germany we will have to shoot leadfreee while hunting within next year, so I will give those CX bullets a try.

Rifle's weight with loaded 10 round mag is 7.2kg / 15.8pounds. Absolute pleasure to shoot.

I am stitching my own shooting bag at the moment and will put some BT80 rails to left and right side to connect the bag with some QD buttons. We will see how it turns out.

Some pics of the rifle and a 100m / about 100yards 10 shot group. Repeatable result.


Kind regards,

Tobias
 

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This quote came from KRG's website talking about using AICS mags in their selection of Tikka compatible chassis : Tikka rifles accept AICS pattern mags with the exception of the Magpul AICS polymer mags.

From what's been posted over the years the pmag was designed around the rem 700 actions.
They have a wider inlet.
The Tikka has a smaller inlet and the lips on the pmag are too fat to fit it.

You might give the MDT polymer mags a try they have thinner designed lips and the ones I have all worked fine on the Tikka's
That's totally true.

I run 2 5round and 3 10round MDT polymer mags in my CTR with Atlasworxs DBM. They just work smooth as butter as we say in Germany.

PMags have to be sanded down at lips on each side of the mag.