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Tikka T3 Thread

It's not something we currently make but I could. They would require timing by a machinist/gunsmith if we were to do that, but I do have some 9/16-24 brakes in 30 cal for self timing already.
Figured they would have to be machinist/ gunsmith installed.

The problem that some of us run into is the muzzle is too small for the shoulder of the 9/16-24.

My t3x lite barrel measurements.
Legend: .dia {distance from muzzle} (barrel length)
.616 {0} (24.33)
.620 {1.358} (23)
.630 {2.57} (21.75)
.640 {3.81} (20.5)
.650 {5.05} (19.25)
.660 {6.27} (18.06)
Recommended od for 9/16 shoulder .662 {6.625} (17.7)
0.673 {8.08} (16.25)Beyond this point has to be registered as an SBR
At front of tupperware 0.711 {13.33} (11)
Recommended od for 5/8 0.725 {15} (9.33)
 
Figured they would have to be machinist/ gunsmith installed.

The problem that some of us run into is the muzzle is too small for the shoulder of the 9/16-24.

My t3x lite barrel measurements.
Legend: .dia {distance from muzzle} (barrel length)
.616 {0} (24.33)
.620 {1.358} (23)
.630 {2.57} (21.75)
.640 {3.81} (20.5)
.650 {5.05} (19.25)
.660 {6.27} (18.06)
Recommended od for 9/16 shoulder .662 {6.625} (17.7)
0.673 {8.08} (16.25)Beyond this point has to be registered as an SBR
At front of tupperware 0.711 {13.33} (11)
Recommended od for 5/8 0.725 {15} (9.33)
I have contemplated making "blend in" brakes for a while but the requests are few and far between on them because so many folks want to assemble themselves (totally understandable). This may be a niche market but if we had a a handful of maybe 25-50 orders for them I would make a run of about 100 and stick the extras on the shelf to serve the super light market.
 
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I have a t3x lite that was cut to 20” and threaded 5/8-24. I bought it from someone else who used it suppressed without issue. At the time I just wanted a shorter barrel to run a brake. I put a few precision washers and an Area 419 hellfire match on the non existent shoulder and it’s worked fine.

Now I have a suppressor that should be released any day and that makes me nervous. It will also mount to the area 419 muzzle adapter. I’ll use an alignment rod and see if it’s set right.
 
Anyone know of anywhere that has a pre-fit (shouldered or barrel nut) 8 or 7 twist 243 barrel in stock for a T3x Lite??

My Search-Fu is failing me.

All the vendors here on the Hide can make them, but I'm trying to salvage hunting season and widdle down my Black Friday list early.

Thanks in advance.
 
Anyone know of anywhere that has a pre-fit (shouldered or barrel nut) 8 or 7 twist 243 barrel in stock for a T3x Lite??

My Search-Fu is failing me.

All the vendors here on the Hide can make them, but I'm trying to salvage hunting season and widdle down my Black Friday list early.

Thanks in advance.
I looked hard and long for the same. Ended up ordering one from Straight Jacket Armory. 6-10 week wait. It's winter, 14F outside so I'm good.
 
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Anyone have a KRG chassis in sako green that they sponge painted? Looking for some inspiration, specifically for the sako green color since that'll be the base color.

I've got an x-ray on the way and plan to paint in before dropping the action in. Curious to see the color combos anyone else may have done.

Cheers!
 
Anyone have a KRG chassis in sako green that they sponge painted? Looking for some inspiration, specifically for the sako green color since that'll be the base color.

I've got an x-ray on the way and plan to paint in before dropping the action in. Curious to see the color combos anyone else may have done.

Cheers!

Not a perfect comparison, but this was an ODG Ridgeback that I did a while back. Probably would have picked some brown/tan supplemental colors in hindsight, but it turned out fine.

Sako green would definitely be a little more vibrant - could probably turn it down a little with some black “overspray” first before sponging.

IMG_9681.jpeg
 
Just curious, how does this stock carry, I have been on “solid” stocks my whole life, just wondering how this preforms, I take it no sling?? Thanks for posting pic, Charlie112
Mine feels great, it's an MDT chassis with an A3 Tactical folding stock. I just finished putting it together last night, going to zero it on Friday and hopefully get some predator hunting at night these next few days while away for white tail.

My hot take is well made, points and handles well, not too heavy. Mag Release sucks, mag well is way too tight (using mdt mags as well), and the thumb rest slot they cut in it is a total waste. I'm probably going to put the chassis on my 3 axis and cut off what I don't need quite frankly.
 
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I have a Tikka set up as a switch barrel rifle. Two proof carbon barrels and one proof steel barrel. I have been completely disassembling Rifle when swapping barrels. i mount the steel portion of the barrel near the action in the barrel Vise. I torque to 80 pounds using a quality torque wrench.

It struck me that I could shorten and drastically speed up the process if I don’t remove scope and stock and simply clamp the barrel midway in the barrel vise. I anticipate swapping barrels 10 or 15 times during the course of their life. Will this harm a proof carbon barrel? I know it’s common practice with steel barrels on many other switch rifle combinations.

Yes I have reached out to proof customer service for their input. And I anticipate it will be conservative based on litigious considerations. Looking for experienced input from anyone who’s been down this road
 
Ok. Need some help. Just purchase this barreled action from another member.
has anyone ever seen a step down barrel contour like the one on this barrel on a Tac A1?
IMG_3460.jpeg
 
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@HolyCity73
Don't aem5 or some other otter creek labs cans go back over the barrel?
Check dimensions off what you find in this thread.
 
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Ok. Need some help. Just purchase this barreled action from another member.
has anyone ever seen a step down barrel contour like the one on this barrel on a Tac A1?
View attachment 8279160
WHAT BARREL THAT IS?
Not from factory, or some one has done the muzzle thread afterwards, that is not made by TIKKA.
There is like a spigot done on lathe after the threads.
Profile of that barrel look like varmint, much thicker than TAC/CTR/UPR, those 3 has same profile barrel.
 
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WHAT BARREL THAT IS?
Not from factory, or some one has done the muzzle thread afterwards, that is not made by TIKKA.
There is like a spigot done on lathe after the threads.
Profile of that barrel look like varmint, much thicker than TAC/CTR/UPR, those 3 has same profile barrel.
IMG_9654.jpeg

None of my tikkas have barrel markings like this. Thought it may be an early Gen TacA1
 
View attachment 8279329
None of my tikkas have barrel markings like this. Thought it may be an early Gen TacA1
That looks like Finnish proof marks. From 2022? Probably engraved by the proofing facility, not Tikka.

The thread reminds me of the "spigot" attachment for a can, that I have on a rifle. There are different metric sizes like 17x1 Spigot or 19x1 Spigot.
 
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Can a fellow Tikka enthusiast share some pictures as well as write a little about their experience with the Roughtech line of T3x's, specifically concerning:

- muzzle rise with the original brake
- if you replaced the brake and how easy/hard it is to remove it
- long range performance with the fluted barrel
- if groups start to open up once the barrel is warming up
- which velocities do you tend to get

I'm debating on a 6.5 CM 24.33" intended for a LR/hiking setup, and wanted to hear a little first hand experience from someone who has used it. For perspective, I have experience with CTR barrels in 6.5 CM 20" and 24" as well as heavy varmint aftermarket, so nothing light profile or fluted like the Roughtech. It will eventually be tossed into a McMillan stock. Also, is the Mountain Tactical replacement bottom metal and magazine combo worth the $ or is there another one that Tikka fans prefer? I am as most, also not a fan of the plastic...
Thanks!
 
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Does tikka make an ARC on a T3 action?

I’ve heard tikka isn’t making the 6mm creed as a factory offering because the EU version of SAAMI hasn’t “approved” it yet?
Tikka doesnt make boltface compatible with 220 russian (.444) or 416 Rigby (.590).
 
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Hey guys. I'm looking to hopefully get a definitive answer. Will the CTR bottom metal/mags work and function properly with my T3 Tactical (not T3X)? I'm looking to drop my barreled action into a CTR inletted McMillan stock. Some guys swear they've done it no problem, and some guys say "no way, the action has to be milled a bit for CTR mag clearance". I know I have to remove the retaining clip/spring and possibly open up the barrel channel a bit. Thanks in advance.
Photo of my T3 Tactical:
 

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Will the CTR bottom metal/mags work and function properly with my T3 Tactical (not T3X)?
No.There are some minor differences. The revised CTR BM relief as found on CTR plastic stock is the first (but minor in the big scheme of things), but second, and more importantly, is the notch to allow double-stack mags, which only on T3x actions. For some reason IIRC the .223 CTR Mag doesn't need the notch (?), but look into via search/google for more info.
 
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No. The CTR is longer, 2.92” vs the 308
Which is 2.810.

The tenth of an inch matters when the base of the brass is against the back of the mag.

It’s simple to remove the stop, file it down, and replace it.
 
Hey guys. I'm looking to hopefully get a definitive answer. Will the CTR bottom metal/mags work and function properly with my T3 Tactical (not T3X)? I'm looking to drop my barreled action into a CTR inletted McMillan stock. Some guys swear they've done it no problem, and some guys say "no way, the action has to be milled a bit for CTR mag clearance". I know I have to remove the retaining clip/spring and possibly open up the barrel channel a bit. Thanks in advance.
Photo of my T3 Tactical:
I just dropped my re-barreled T3 into a KRG Bravo stock set up for CTR mags. Absolutely no feeding problems. I too had read that the receiver needed to be machined for this to work. Don't believe everything you read is my take.
 
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^Thanks for that info. I guess another alternative is just to go with an aftermarket bottom metal that uses AICS pattern mags. No milling needed from what I'm told.
 
^Thanks for that info. I guess another alternative is just to go with an aftermarket bottom metal that uses AICS pattern mags. No milling needed from what I'm told.
That would be the best choice. We only have experience with Atlasworx AICS/CTR floorplate (careful there is also and older version that won't fit into CTR footprint). If the inlet is correct even the original action screws are the right length for the Atlasworx AICS/CTR. I am sure others will work but we have only used these so far. We have fitted hundreds of them.
https://atlasworxs.com/shop/atlaswo...aics-tikka-t3-t3x-ctr-compact-tactical-rifle/
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