Evidently not. Mine is definitely cerakote.
have a pic of your rifle? A friend’s roughtech rusted. why do you think yours is stainless?
The veil rifles are definitely stainless, that’s what I have. But I’ve heard the stock itself also referred to as “roughtech”. It’s dumb they make it so difficult to discern
I didn’t say anything about it being stainless, I only know it’s cerekoted… I don’t have a photo readily available, but it’s this one:
Question #1
Is it a good idea to load .223 CTR mags by pressing round straight down, like AR or AW/AX mags? I tried it, it works, but I just wanted to know if it’s a bad idea.Question #2
I have verified through multiple sources, including Beretta, that .204 should work in CTR .223 mags. However, it appears loading only about 7 rounds max will work. After about 7 in the CTR mag, the rounds start sticking up with the rear of the 10th round barely contained by the feed lips.Note that this happened BEFORE I tried loading .223/.204 rounds straight down into the mag.
I was going to use my MPA feed lip bender tool to narrow the lips, but the metal+plastic CTR feed lips are too thick for the tool.
.223 rounds appear to present normally at the top of the mag.
Keep in mind I can’t yet test this in a Tikka as I haven’t yet gotten the factory laminated wood stock milled out for a CTR bottom metal.
That is how double stack magazines are loaded
Do that and all the rest of your post is sorted
True Double stack mags have two columns, and 'nothing' in the middle.
With 'nothing in the middle' you can top-load the mag.
CTR and SAKO TRG mags are single feed, with center presentation.
There's something in the middle...which you have to displace.
These mags only double stack below the presentation round.
Yeah, that’s what I was going to write. Btw are the 223 CTR mags different than larger caliber mags in general design?
@aprocast Doesn’t matter how I load rounds in this CTR mag, the result is the same.
No matter how I load rounds (push straight down or down at front & slide back), the 204 rounds start angling up/out around the 7th round. Whereas the .223 loads fine either way.
No, the 223 ctr mags are the same as the 308 size mags.
they are not meant to load straight down. He is squeezing the feed lips apart by pressing the round straight down. Those are the only things containing the round, so it will lose retention eventually and need adjustment
I'm not working today due to work being suspended because of a Cyclone ( your Hurricane equivalent ) happening here in Australia .
Perfect timing because my old T3 .223 Tikka is back from Trentech ( Gunsmith ) with a new 6x45 / 6mm - 223 barrel , so I started the fun job of putting stuff together .
I have over the last 6 months acquired bits and pieces for this old Tikka .
I found a GRS Stock recently secondhand at a price that I couldn't go past , so even though this was not my original idea , I have a Tikka Super Varmint Stock which I was going to use and still may if I don't " Jive " with the GRS .
I had purchased new Alloy bottom metal for it when it was a .223 , so that is being used instead of the crappy Factory plastic one .
A 6 round Waters .223 magazine that allows you to load out to 2.6 inches without any other modifications to the Rifle is being used so that the longer / bigger 6mm projectiles won't protrude down into the case robbing space for powder .
The Dummy rounds I sent to the Gunsmith ( the barrel was throated 20 thou jump for the dummy rounds I supplied using Sierra 85gn hpbt projectiles seated out reasonably long ) feed perfectly in the testing I have done this morning .
Here is a comparison photo of a Factory 55gn .223 round and what I'm going to be throwing out of the 'Old Girl " now .
Perfect timing because my old T3 .223 Tikka is back from Trentech ( Gunsmith ) with a new 6x45 / 6mm - 223 barrel , so I started the fun job of putting stuff together .
I have over the last 6 months acquired bits and pieces for this old Tikka .
I found a GRS Stock recently secondhand at a price that I couldn't go past , so even though this was not my original idea , I have a Tikka Super Varmint Stock which I was going to use and still may if I don't " Jive " with the GRS .
I had purchased new Alloy bottom metal for it when it was a .223 , so that is being used instead of the crappy Factory plastic one .
A 6 round Waters .223 magazine that allows you to load out to 2.6 inches without any other modifications to the Rifle is being used so that the longer / bigger 6mm projectiles won't protrude down into the case robbing space for powder .
The Dummy rounds I sent to the Gunsmith ( the barrel was throated 20 thou jump for the dummy rounds I supplied using Sierra 85gn hpbt projectiles seated out reasonably long ) feed perfectly in the testing I have done this morning .
Here is a comparison photo of a Factory 55gn .223 round and what I'm going to be throwing out of the 'Old Girl " now .
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I have a question for the Tikka experts.
I have a T3 Sporter in 6.5x55 SE. It's a great rifle and feels like cheating compared to my other rifles (mostly vintage iron sighted war horses). My question is about muzzle threading for a suppressor. The Sporter is not threaded. I have a Saker 762 that I'd like to use with this rifle, but I'm unsure about messing up a good thing by tearing down the rifle to send the barreled action for threading.
Am I being too cautious here, or should I just get on with it and not look back? Thoughts? Thanks!
I have a T3 Sporter in 6.5x55 SE. It's a great rifle and feels like cheating compared to my other rifles (mostly vintage iron sighted war horses). My question is about muzzle threading for a suppressor. The Sporter is not threaded. I have a Saker 762 that I'd like to use with this rifle, but I'm unsure about messing up a good thing by tearing down the rifle to send the barreled action for threading.
Am I being too cautious here, or should I just get on with it and not look back? Thoughts? Thanks!
Not an expert, but if that is the 16mm barrel diameter, you need to ask your gunsmith doing the threading if its OK for the supressor. My understanding was the18mm is smallest that Tikka offers factory threading. You can go smaller on a custome barrel, viz the barret fieldcraft (reverse-tapered), but talk to whomever would be doing the threading and they can advise would be my advise.
@ma smith thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned that I have measured the barrel end diameter. It's 0.840" (iirc) and will easily support 5/8-24 threads. I'm thinking of using Silencer Central for the threading.
You are perfectly fine with that. 0.725" is the recommended minimum for 5/8-24.
Finally the new parts for m CTR arrived.
- German Gun Stock 30MOA rail with bubblelevel
- German Gun Stock angled bolt knob
- Tikka TaC A1 Trigger double stage with 3way safety
- EraTac QD Sling mount
- German Gun Stock 30MOA rail with bubblelevel
- German Gun Stock angled bolt knob
- Tikka TaC A1 Trigger double stage with 3way safety
- EraTac QD Sling mount
Attachments
Chances are you won't mess anything up, but impossible to know for certain.
Some smith's will re-crown the barrel after threading, if you are worried try find someone who will leave the crown alone.
Tikka T3x sporter, cut to 19" and threaded 5/8-24 in 308 is hard to beat as an all around rifle. I have a bunch of five round mags, and another stock like this with CTR bottom metal for a SHTF rifle.
Didn't spend a lot of money to make this, but its a fantastic utility rifle. I took the cheek pieces off of CTR stocks I bought here, same with the bottom metal and mags for the other stock.
Wears a Athlon Helos BTR Gen2 2-12 these days in Sportsmatch 30mm medium rings.
Didn't spend a lot of money to make this, but its a fantastic utility rifle. I took the cheek pieces off of CTR stocks I bought here, same with the bottom metal and mags for the other stock.
Wears a Athlon Helos BTR Gen2 2-12 these days in Sportsmatch 30mm medium rings.
If anyone is looking for Tikka bolt bodies for swapping calibers check out PR Precision in Canada. I'm very happy with mine, it works flawlessly and the owner is a great dude. Price was 550 Canadian with the extractor and ejector kit installed, about 410 USD.
Also has anyone done a 'serious' build on the MDT LSS XL? All I've seen are budget rigs on that chassis.
I'm contemplating trying a lightish folding chassis that I can scale up and down as needs require. The HNT26 is cool but I don't think the buttstock locks in the folded position. The ESS is too heavy.
The LSS XL and XLR element are the only options for Tikka I've seen that will do what I want.
I'm contemplating trying a lightish folding chassis that I can scale up and down as needs require. The HNT26 is cool but I don't think the buttstock locks in the folded position. The ESS is too heavy.
The LSS XL and XLR element are the only options for Tikka I've seen that will do what I want.
The HNT 26 does lock in the folded position.
I've used Silencer Central for cutting and threading a Marlin 22 and they did a great job. Rifle came back shooting smaller groups.
I've also used ADCO in the distant past to cut on some M4 barrels. All good work.
I too have had them do the job. Their process in the past was pretty seemless, especially if you catch them at a gun show. The results were very nice.
The only thing to watch out for is if you have a rimfire. They cut the threads too long for my TBAC 22. I didn’t realize rimfire threads are typically cut shorter! So I was forced to source a quality spacer.
Heads up for whomever you choose on that one.
That is specific to the TBAC takedown FYI. There isn’t really a 1/2x28 standard, and a majority of rimfire pistols use shorter thread lengths. Would have been fine with a different 22 can.
When I had one of my Savage 22's threaded by @LRI they called and asked how long I wanted the threads. Glad they did. I have a 22td.
I think they generally have the longer 1/2-28 on 223/5.56 guns vs rimfire. That way you don't put a 22lr rated can on a 5.56 and blow it up. Now if you're using a 22 conversion kit that might be annoying.
I think they generally have the longer 1/2-28 on 223/5.56 guns vs rimfire. That way you don't put a 22lr rated can on a 5.56 and blow it up. Now if you're using a 22 conversion kit that might be annoying.
I cannot speak to an industry standard. But I don’t think it hurts to stick to shorter threading on rimfires. Attached is some info which supports what I said:
Firearm Suppressor Thread and Socket Drawings - SAAMI
NOTE: The muzzle thread and socket drawings below are posted in accordance with SAAMI’s mission to promote safety, interchangeability, reliability and quality and are available to the public, without restriction. These drawings are not an approved American National Standard (ANS) at present. Any...
saami.org 
The More You Know: Thread Pattern Basics -
That sharp, corkscrew section on the end of your barrel is called the ‘threads’. And it is completely ok to admit that is where your level of knowledge on barrel threading ends (until recently, I was right there with you). For those of us who run stock barrels and muzzle devices, you probably...
www.thefirearmblog.com Right, I'm just saying that the issue you had is specific to the TBAC.I cannot speak to an industry standard. But I don’t think it hurts to stick to shorter threading on rimfires. Attached is some info which supports what I said:
Firearm Suppressor Thread and Socket Drawings - SAAMI
NOTE: The muzzle thread and socket drawings below are posted in accordance with SAAMI’s mission to promote safety, interchangeability, reliability and quality and are available to the public, without restriction. These drawings are not an approved American National Standard (ANS) at present. Any...
The More You Know: Thread Pattern Basics -
That sharp, corkscrew section on the end of your barrel is called the ‘threads’. And it is completely ok to admit that is where your level of knowledge on barrel threading ends (until recently, I was right there with you). For those of us who run stock barrels and muzzle devices, you probably...
It's not. Common practice, centerfire is longer than rimfire. By about .200" iirc
Silencerco ships with a spacer for incorrectly thread barrels.
Again, I’m saying it’s an issue specific to the TBAC because of its design, where the longer threads bottom out in the blast chamber. I haven’t come across another 22 suppressor with the same issue.
I understand that there are differences in 22 thread dimensions.
that made me laugh, and the first thought that went through my mind was, do you even lift? no disrespect intended, just an old joke we used to say where i worked to the kids who thought they were tough because they were gym junkies.
my heavy barrel .223 is around 18lb, around 8kgs in straya. before my bad shoulder that got operated on, i didnt find it heavy, more balanced in the ess than when it was in the original tupperware stock. today as i typed this up, i have 2 bad shoulders and require a monopod to hold up the .223
and no, the brake isnt there to help my shoulder. its there to protect the crown.
Midas vs. Bix ‘n Andy Tacsport Pro two-stage
Has anyone compared these two triggers?
I have a rem700 in 204 with a Bix ‘n Andy Tacsport Pro 2 stage. Love the gator trigger texture. The thing is seriously amazing.
I have also bought a couple Tikkas to check them out. The Midas trigger as we (or you, not me, never tried it) know it is on hiatus. KRG is updating it and they told me it’ll maybe be out, “early to mid 2024.”
I might ditch the Rem700 and go for Tikkas. Was thinking Terminus Zeus but I’m sorta scratching my head here why I’d do that if the triggers are equivalent or close. Wrench flats on a Tikka prefit and done!
In the meantime I put a lighter spring in one Tikka and you guys weren’t kidding. What a nice single stage trigger!
The other Tikka has a two stage stocker and I haven’t messed with it yet. It’s a bit heavy.
I saw one post in the shot show 2024 thread that there was stirrings regarding a Trigger Tech Tikka trigger? Anyone else hear of this? I haven't seen any pictures that I could find to confirm it. Admittedly I hadn't gotten the whole way through that thread as of publishing time on this post.
FB video from shooter's mindset. Was post 459. No idea what flavor though.
Man, why would they bother to come out with a single stage Tikka trigger? The stocker is so good with a spring change.
Two stage, now there’s some room in that market as you have unobtanium Tikka and Sako models plus the Midas.
I have to admit a TT special vs Tikka with spring is so close I couldn't care less, but a diamond would probably push me over the edge for my comp gun.
I tried the Tikka Triggertech at their booth last week. As all Triggertech very good. Tikka triggers are generally good however there are a few flops amongst them that need reworking. In all the years we had three T3 triggers that were not nice. One was reworked and turned out perfect. I think there is a market for T3 Triggertech. Our PRS shooters would love one. One reason is to have a spare in the box.
edi
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A week ago I received a shouldered prefit barrel from Preferred Barrel Blanks; 26", 6mm, 7.5 twist 5R and chambered in .243 Winchester. The action is circa 2007 and I have read where Tikka does not machined to close enough tolerances to accept a shouldered prefit. That kept me up at night, but if that is the case then barrel suppliers would not offer a shouldered prefit.
I installed the barrel today and am here to say that PBB did a wonderful job. The difference between my go and no/go gauges is .004". The bolt closes on the go and does not close on the no/go. I can now sleep.
Now to break in the barrel. It's snowing so I'll have to wait.
I installed the barrel today and am here to say that PBB did a wonderful job. The difference between my go and no/go gauges is .004". The bolt closes on the go and does not close on the no/go. I can now sleep.
Now to break in the barrel. It's snowing so I'll have to wait.
80s should be perfect.
88s will be tough. They might stabilize out of the muzzle but you’ll be losing some intrinsic BC at distance. You also need a lot of freebore to get anywhere close to reasonable velocity out of them, so I think just too many things working against them in a factory 223 barrel.
Check your barrel twist and make sure its compatible with the Manufacturer's spec
Recommended twist rate is 7.5x
1-8 will shoot 60’s… at least out of my Tikka 1-8…
Mine shoots 52s no issues and excellent accuracy
Ya,, I tried the 60’s just to see how they shoot, my loads out of my 22-250 are 55-53 grains,, my .223 is 50-53… H380, Varget, Bench Mark, Hornady… ya know… varmint hunter,, long time tikka shooter….
1-8 twist??
