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Tikka T3 Thread

dannySH said:
I have 3 Tikka actions dedicated as "switch barrels" in 6.5 CM, 6.5x47 Lapua and 6XC and a 4th one that still remains stock (6.5CM CTR) The switch barrel ones have PVA nut barrels and Bugholes bugnut barrels. I made them during the las three years using factory Tikkas as donors that cost me around $450 each, just had to add the rails, bolt handles and Yodave or Elay springs (less than $100 of added parts) All of them shoot less than 3/8 MOA with my handloads. I did all these before the new budged friendly actions like Nucleus and Origin came out to the market. Should I' do it again now? Its difficult to say but I think I'll do it. Price wise Im spending half of the price, and performance wise IMHO I don't think I could get better accuracy and repeatability that what I'm getting right now with my Tikkas.
Click to expand...
Where can you get cheap bolt handles for a Tikka? I've been looking for a swept back one, but I haven't been able to find anything cheaper than $70-80.

Anyway, the budget customs will have arguably better ergonomics than the Tikka. Also, the cost savings you mentioned are generally not as straight forward, because certain aftermarket components for the R700, like stocks or barrel prefits, often cost less than for the Tikka. Aside from that, I think your builds are certainly still good options. However, if you take a $450 Tikka action, add $200 Sterk bolt handle and shroud combo, $125 Murphy precision rail and a $40 Mountain Tactical bolt stop, you're suddenly in Bighorn Origin territory.
 
bravesirrobin said:
Where can you get cheap bolt handles for a Tikka? I've been looking for a swept back one, but I haven't been able to find anything cheaper than $70-80.

Anyway, the budget customs will have arguably better ergonomics than the Tikka. Also, the cost savings you mentioned are generally not as straight forward, because certain aftermarket components for the R700, like stocks or barrel prefits, often cost less than for the Tikka. Aside from that, I think your builds are certainly still good options. However, if you take a $450 Tikka action, add $200 Sterk bolt handle and shroud combo, $125 Murphy precision rail and a $40 Mountain Tactical bolt stop, you're suddenly in Bighorn Origin territory.
Click to expand...

What ergonomics does the Bighorn Origin have that the Tikka lacks? Take your $450 Tikka action and trigger, add $70 for Mountain Tactical pic rail and $80 if you want the swept Sterk bolt handle. That's it. If you want the Titanium shroud you're still well below budget custom action and you'll still need to add a trigger to the custom action. That's a lot of value for the dollar, add a KRG Bravo and optic and you're off.
 
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bravesirrobin said:
Where can you get cheap bolt handles for a Tikka? I've been looking for a swept back one, but I haven't been able to find anything cheaper than $70-80.

Anyway, the budget customs will have arguably better ergonomics than the Tikka. Also, the cost savings you mentioned are generally not as straight forward, because certain aftermarket components for the R700, like stocks or barrel prefits, often cost less than for the Tikka. Aside from that, I think your builds are certainly still good options. However, if you take a $450 Tikka action, add $200 Sterk bolt handle and shroud combo, $125 Murphy precision rail and a $40 Mountain Tactical bolt stop, you're suddenly in Bighorn Origin territory.
Click to expand...


I definitely love the Sterk bolt handle, well worth the money. But if cheap or budget friendly is what you are going for then check out Anarchy outdoors, they offer a swept back handle as well, http://www.anarchyoutdoors.com/tikka-bolt-handle-upgrade/?afmc=3q.

As for budget, you don't need a sterk handle or bolt shroud, yes they are great but you can also get away with using the factory metal shroud and you can find CTR bolt handles that people aren't using. Scope rails, Anarchy outdoors offers scope rails for $50, and Mountain Tactical offers them for $60 and $140. Also the bolt stop, if you have a newer T3X an aftermarket bolt stop is not an absolute necessity. Also, if you watch the holiday sales or used sections you can find tikka rifles for $350.

Is the Tikka the end all be all rifle, no its not, you can't beat an custom action. But for being a factory rifle that can compete with most custom action in smoothness is still pretty darn good.

Thankfully though with how todays gunmarket is, everyone can have exactly what they want. If custom is your go too, awesome! But for me, I have no problem investing alot of money into my tikka and I don't feel I'm under gunned shooting against custom actions.
 
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Praeger said:
What ergonomics does the Bighorn Origin have that the Tikka lacks? Take your $450 Tikka action and trigger, add $70 for Mountain Tactical pic rail and $80 if you want the swept Sterk bolt handle. That's it. If you want the Titanium shroud you're still well below budget custom action and you'll still need to add a trigger to the custom action. That's a lot of value for the dollar, add a KRG Bravo and optic and you're off.
Click to expand...
If you read my original post you'll see that my opinion is that you buy a Tikka if you plan to keep it mostly stock. If you plan to invest a lot of money into the rifle down the road, it's better to start with a custom. As for ergonomics, I have not handled an Origin, so I cannot tell you how the bolt feels compared to a Tikka, but I do prefer the controlled feed, mechanical ejector, shorter overall length, and a bigger ejection port.
 
tevan0707 said:
I definitely love the Sterk bolt handle, well worth the money. But if cheap or budget friendly is what you are going for then check out Anarchy outdoors, they offer a swept back handle as well, http://www.anarchyoutdoors.com/tikka-bolt-handle-upgrade/?afmc=3q.

As for budget, you don't need a sterk handle or bolt shroud, yes they are great but you can also get away with using the factory metal shroud and you can find CTR bolt handles that people aren't using. Scope rails, Anarchy outdoors offers scope rails for $50, and Mountain Tactical offers them for $60 and $140. Also the bolt stop, if you have a newer T3X an aftermarket bolt stop is not an absolute necessity. Also, if you watch the holiday sales or used sections you can find tikka rifles for $350.

Is the Tikka the end all be all rifle, no its not, you can't beat an custom action. But for being a factory rifle that can compete with most custom action in smoothness is still pretty darn good.

Thankfully though with how todays gunmarket is, everyone can have exactly what they want. If custom is your go too, awesome! But for me, I have no problem investing alot of money into my tikka and I don't feel I'm under gunned shooting against custom actions.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I've looked at Anarchy outdoors before, but if I understand correctly with the bolt knob their handle is also at least $70.

Anyway, I'm very satisfied with my T3x, and I'm not trying to bash Tikkas. I was responding to a user who asked whether building a custom rifle from a CTR was a good idea.
 
bravesirrobin said:
If you read my original post you'll see that my opinion is that you buy a Tikka if you plan to keep it mostly stock. If you plan to invest a lot of money into the rifle down the road, it's better to start with a custom. As for ergonomics, I have not handled an Origin, so I cannot tell you how the bolt feels compared to a Tikka, but I do prefer the controlled feed, mechanical ejector, shorter overall length, and a bigger ejection port.
Click to expand...
No, hadn't read your earlier post. Just replying to your last post. Fair point as to the tipping point when you add on the upgrades you listed - although it's still less expensive than a low-end custom but the gap gets smaller. As for controlled feed, mechanical ejector, bigger ejection port - those become subjective as to whether that makes the rifle perform better. There are many high end custom actions with none of those features. I think it's not a bad plan to start with a quality production rifle which is supported by aftermarket parts and upgrade as your skills evolve and preferences become more refined. I don't think we're disagreeing here, perhaps just taking different path to same end.
 
bravesirrobin said:
Thanks, I've looked at Anarchy outdoors before, but if I understand correctly with the bolt knob their handle is also at least $70.

Anyway, I'm very satisfied with my T3x, and I'm not trying to bash Tikkas. I was responding to a user who asked whether building a custom rifle from a CTR was a good idea.
Click to expand...


You can but a PTG round knob for $15 so you would be around $60 for the setup.

I know your not bashing tikka. I will run a custom action when I win one off a price table, but till then my tikka will be my primary rifle. No need to change until I have too or circumstances dictate.
 
bravesirrobin said:
With the latest batch of cheaper custom actions about to hit the market, I honestly don't think buying a Tikka with the intention of using it as a basis for a custom build is good idea. If I were you, I'd buy a Tikka if I intended to keep it mostly factory, with the possible exception of changing the stock. However, if you plan to replace a lot of other parts - trigger, bolt handle, bolt shroud, rail, etc, you'll quickly find yourself in custom action territory as far as the cost. Except custom actions will offer you higher build quality, more features, and a much wider aftermarket compatibility.

Tikkas shoot great out of the box, and unlike the Nucleus(and JH) or Origin, or Tenacity, or even the Bergara HMR Pro, they are readily available. I just started reloading for my .223 Varmint, and it legitimately seems to shoot 0.5 MOA with my reloads. The rifle is completely stock, the only thing I've done is free float the barrel.
Click to expand...
No need to replace the trigger on a Tikka, these triggers are fantastic.

I think I am going to go with an Origin on my next build, but IMO it will still run me at least ~600 more than a comparable Tikka based build.
 
R_Swanson said:
No need to replace the trigger on a Tikka, these triggers are fantastic.

I think I am going to go with an Origin on my next build, but IMO it will still run me at least ~600 more than a comparable Tikka based build.
Click to expand...


I will agree with you about the trigger. However, after playing with the timney 2 stage I see it being a very good option as well. Is it $195 good, probably not but it's an option to those looking for something different.

We will see if I'm still saying that after a few matches with it, but the little bit of dry firing I've done with it, I have no complaints.
 
bravesirrobin said:
Where can you get cheap bolt handles for a Tikka? I've been looking for a swept back one, but I haven't been able to find anything cheaper than $70-80.

Anyway, the budget customs will have arguably better ergonomics than the Tikka. Also, the cost savings you mentioned are generally not as straight forward, because certain aftermarket components for the R700, like stocks or barrel prefits, often cost less than for the Tikka. Aside from that, I think your builds are certainly still good options. However, if you take a $450 Tikka action, add $200 Sterk bolt handle and shroud combo, $125 Murphy precision rail and a $40 Mountain Tactical bolt stop, you're suddenly in Bighorn Origin territory.
Click to expand...
You don't have to replace the Tikka T3X bolt shroud at all neither the bolt stop, at the most just buy a bolt stop pin at any hardware store for 50 cents. You could buy The bolt handle for the CTR or one for Anarchy or even from Glades Armory for only $55. You can get a EGW 20 MOA rail for around $45 and the trigger in our Tikkas is awesome, just add $10 Elay spring to lower the trigger pull to around 1.5 lbs. With all these you are around $120 in upgrades, no more. Of course that you can go as high as the sky buying a $140 rail, a $200 sterk bolt and shroud (that by the way I have two and they are good but in my opinion ithas is too much angle for my taste) and a Timney trigger but they are not really necessary.
As I said in my OP I'm just telling that using a tikka as a donor action for a custom build is another option, maybe not the best but is cheap and well worth to try. I did it three times for the reasons I explained and I'm pleased with them.
 
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Do the aftermarket shrouds actually contribute to anything other than aesthetics? The plastic one has been completely transparent to my uses for three years now... pierced primers, case head separations, and all (I was an overzealous velocity goon with the old 20" barrel....)
 
Incase anyone was looking, McMillan is having a 15% sale going on now. They have quite a few A3-5 with the CTR inlet and a few A5 with the CTR inlet. Use the promo code Memorial2018 at checkout.
 
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Couple of action shots of my Tikka and me at a local match.

Ryrfwe.jpg

JCQ9vD.jpg
 
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Frank, as per your youtube video review, can you explain why the Bartlin barrel that is 22" long, was able to produce a faster mv than the factory 24" barrel ?
 
AK49 said:


Frank, as per your youtube video review, can you explain why the Bartlin barrel that is 22" long, was able to produce a faster mv than the factory 24" barrel ?
Click to expand...


Tikka, is known for its slow (but accurate) barrels. I have had 3 now (1 308 and 2 6.5's) All were slower than your average factory rifles barrel. Why the 22 is faster that the 24"? Most aftermarket barrels (from what I've have seen) generally shoot faster than their factory match length. More attention to detail, cut rifle, etc.. I'm sure someone with a lot more experience and knowledge could explain better but gist is... aftermarket match barrels are usually a bit faster than factory.
 
I wonder if it has to do with relatively loose lands and grooves as compared to a precision barrel? Less pressure, less velocity... ? I think Frank said that he gained about 100 fps with the Bartlin 22" bbl
 
Lunchbox27 said:
Tikka, is known for its slow (but accurate) barrels. I have had 3 now (1 308 and 2 6.5's) All were slower than your average factory rifles barrel. Why the 22 is faster that the 24"? Most aftermarket barrels (from what I've have seen) generally shoot faster than their factory match length. More attention to detail, cut rifle, etc.. I'm sure someone with a lot more experience and knowledge could explain better but gist is... aftermarket match barrels are usually a bit faster than factory.
Click to expand...

But so are SAKO barrels.
TRG barrels seems to be made a bit different then, than the Tikka.
I like my stock CTR barrels, for sure they are just the stock, if you want best and better, you just choose better.
But for the beginner, stock barrel is the right way to start the shooting, they wont benefit the barrel in the first few years.
For sure guys who have shoot thousend of shots, they want the precise shots with every shot, they will really need that custom barrel with the twist that they need.
But for the beginner, Tikka stock barrel will take you for a long way, dont underestimate the factor barrels.
Same machines that maked Sako and Tikka Barrels are used in factory in the Steyr Mannlicher in Austria, or should i say, that Steyr Mannlicher machines are doing Sako and Tikka barrels.
 
AK49 said:
So I am looking at purchasing the Tikka T3X Tac A1

http://www.tikka.fi/rifles/tikka-t3x/t3x-tac-a1

Would you recommend this for the beginner in PRS ?

Also should I go 260 Rem or 6.5 CM... I have done some reloading but my time to do reloading is limited
Click to expand...


The Tac a1 is a phenomenal rifle. A very good place to start. The only downfall of it is having to run CTR mags. Some guys may not see that as a negative but if you already have a huge stock pile of AICS mags then your better off getting a standard T3X and dropping it into a stock or chassis that you prefer.

As for the 260 or 6.5, that's really entirely up to you. People will sit there and argue the 2 till they're blue in the face, but there are pros and cons of both. Pick whichever you can find readily available factory ammo for.
 
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AK49 said:
So I am looking at purchasing the Tikka T3X Tac A1

http://www.tikka.fi/rifles/tikka-t3x/t3x-tac-a1

Would you recommend this for the beginner in PRS ?

Also should I go 260 Rem or 6.5 CM... I have done some reloading but my time to do reloading is limited
Click to expand...
One thing to be aware of is that the Tac A1 comes with a 0Moa rail, so you might need to run a canted scope mount.

As far as 260 Rem vs 6.5 CM, if you don't reload definitely go for 6.5 CM. Accuracy is similar, the other merits of the two calibers have been discussed to death, but there is way more factory ammo available for 6.5 CM, at any price point or quality. It's not even close.
 
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Just got my invoice from sterk. You guys should be seeing yours soon as well.
 
tevan0707 said:
Just got my invoice from sterk. You guys should be seeing yours soon as well.
Click to expand...
Just curious are the Sterk handles threaded where you can change knobs if you want ?
If they are do they come with the standard 5/16-24 thread pitch ?
 
What i know about the swept bolt handle, i do remember that John writed me, that the bolt head is threaded, if i some how would like to change that ball off, which i deffo wont do, because that is just awesome bolt handle with that ball knob, but if some one is going to change is, i think it was 5/16-24 thread or something like that, it was sure not metric thread.
I think this is the best bolt handle for Tikka, i have one and second one is coming in next month for my 308ctr.
32087400_1818975381511858_2411505320728723456_n.jpg





If you want to be sure what the treads are, send John a email, address you find here.
https://z-m-scontent-arn2-1.xx.fbcd...=f7d5a1677009c6b1163d5799cfa42cef&oe=5BBC3EC7
 
JGR1953 said:
Just curious are the Sterk handles threaded where you can change knobs if you want ?
If they are do they come with the standard 5/16-24 thread pitch ?
Click to expand...


They are threaded, but I'm not sure why you'd want to remove the rounded knob? As for the thread pitch I'm not sure, @cannoncrossfire will be to answer that. He may even offer just the handle for sale?
 
Got my T3x Varmint .223 Rem. into its new drab today. Only AICS magazine manufacturer that fits this action and chassis is MDT 5 or 10 round polymer magazines. Nobody else at this point offers an AICS .223 Rem. magazine. Action fit into the Bravo chassis and the aluminum parts of the chassis are a 10 out fo 10, however the Bravo plastic components fit with each other is only a 7 out of 10 ... but at this price ($410 incl. S&H) I guess its okay.

Here's how she grouped (5 @ 100 yds.) with Hornady Varmint Express 55 grain V-Max ammo before the change over into the chassis (haven't been out with her in the chassis yet). Top left and right groups are this rifle's groups ... the others are my Savage ReconLRP/Stag 15 3Gun upper AR 15 with 18" barrel
 

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Hey guys....

I am removing my rail from my CTR. I got the torx screws out with a copious amount of heat from a heat gun, but the rail itself WILL NOT move.

I read all the threads on this, so I expected the screws to be a PITA but I didnt know the rail would be hard as hell to remove after as well.

I am applying more heat to the rail right now but its not budging. Does it just need more and more heat, or am I missing a step?
 
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viking78 said:
Well in 6´4 and 2505lbs, i think the Bravo is great chassis for that price.
I have the tool-less buttbad and 2 spacer, and i think that is enough for me.
The pistol grip is also good size, and i do have large hand.
And what comes for that cheekpiece, i have heard that they have done new model of the cheekrest what will work with Tikka rifles.
I have two CTR and it is true, that the bolt will hit for the cheekrest, when it is on specific hight, but if you dare, you are able to fix that issue with very small effort, and get it work perfectly.
Click to expand...

I just installed my T3x in a new Bravo ... the chassis comes with two cheek pieces, one with cut out needed for the Tikka action to clear it when actuating the bolt and another one without cut out.
 
JGR1953 said:
Just curious are the Sterk handles threaded where you can change knobs if you want ?
If they are do they come with the standard 5/16-24 thread pitch ?
Click to expand...
The Sterk handles are threaded the standard 5/16" x 24tpi - BUT I wouldn't recommend changing the knob or using a different knob on it purely because it's designed to be a certain length and offer certain ergonomics. If someone wants just the shaft and will use a different knob i'd say go buy the Anarchy copy swept shaft and see how that works out for them.
I also do Loctite the knobs on - yes it can be heated and removed, but no one wants the knob spinning off when in use.

I think the pic @stereo.pete posted shows the whole idea best - the knob isn't hanging over your trigger, and yet it's still long enough when the bolt is lifted and needs to come past your scope while still being gripped easily.
JCQ9vD.jpg
 
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Alex D said:
Got my T3x Varmint .223 Rem. into its new drab today. Only AICS magazine manufacturer that fits this action and chassis is MDT 5 or 10 round polymer magazines. Nobody else at this point offers an AICS .223 Rem. magazine. Action fit into the Bravo chassis and the aluminum parts of the chassis are a 10 out fo 10, however the Bravo plastic components fit with each other is only a 7 out of 10 ... but at this price ($410 incl. S&H) I guess its okay.

Here's how she grouped (5 @ 100 yds.) with Hornady Varmint Express 55 grain V-Max ammo before the change over into the chassis (haven't been out with her in the chassis yet). Top left and right groups are this rifle's groups ... the others are my Savage ReconLRP/Stag 15 3Gun upper AR 15 with 18" barrel
Click to expand...


Accurate mag offers a 223 mag.
 
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R_Swanson said:
Hey guys....

I am removing my rail from my CTR. I got the torx screws out with a copious amount of heat from a heat gun, but the rail itself WILL NOT move.

I read all the threads on this, so I expected the screws to be a PITA but I didnt know the rail would be hard as hell to remove after as well.

I am applying more heat to the rail right now but its not budging. Does it just need more and more heat, or am I missing a step?
Click to expand...


Don't forget that the rail also has pins holding it on the receiver. I used a rubber mallet and tapped the sides to help separate it after removing the screws and being generous with the heat.
 
Alex D said:
Got my T3x Varmint .223 Rem. into its new drab today. Only AICS magazine manufacturer that fits this action and chassis is MDT 5 or 10 round polymer magazines. Nobody else at this point offers an AICS .223 Rem. magazine. Action fit into the Bravo chassis and the aluminum parts of the chassis are a 10 out fo 10, however the Bravo plastic components fit with each other is only a 7 out of 10 ... but at this price ($410 incl. S&H) I guess its okay.

Here's how she grouped (5 @ 100 yds.) with Hornady Varmint Express 55 grain V-Max ammo before the change over into the chassis (haven't been out with her in the chassis yet). Top left and right groups are this rifle's groups ... the others are my Savage ReconLRP/Stag 15 3Gun upper AR 15 with 18" barrel
Click to expand...

Did you have to do any trimming/modifications to the magazine body, chassis, or action to make the magazines function?

I have a similar set up that I should have put together in a few weeks
 
harlequin_forest said:
Did you have to do any trimming/modifications to the magazine body, chassis, or action to make the magazines function?

I have a similar set up that I should have put together in a few weeks
Click to expand...

No. ZERO trimming or mods needed. Action dropped right in and fit perfectly...also the .223 MDT poly mag fits perfectly! For other calibers Magpul AICS mags are available ... I would have preferred those since they are better quality (Have them for my Bergara B-14 HMR in 6.5CDM) but Magpul makes no .223 mag and other Magpul AICS mags (.308 etc.) in Tikka actions require trimming of the retaining lips up top as they are a little too wide to fit the Tikka action. MDT however fits perfectly.
 
tevan0707 said:
Don't forget that the rail also has pins holding it on the receiver. I used a rubber mallet and tapped the sides to help separate it after removing the screws and being generous with the heat.
Click to expand...

Thanks buddy, I will try that and report back.

I'm floored how much heat this thing needs.
 
The evolution of a match rifle, got an Ingenuity Gunworks rail on my KRG XRay now, REALLY like it. And still am a huge Sterk fan!

20180504_195012.jpg


20180504_200654.jpg


This was actually the first IGW rail in the wild on a KRG chassis, i sent it in to Paul at Ingenuity for him to get some measurements. Theres actually an aluminum block under the skin, bolted to the chassis forend, that this rail is bolted to. Had it about a month or so, really like this system.
 
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6.5 Cravemoor said:
Which stock is that??
Click to expand...
Yeah it's a Thomson stock as per @Simia Dei post.
Just picked it up second hand. It seems very rigid but heavy as f***.
Bottom metal is Atlasworxs, more or less identical to CDI.
Trigger is a Davies, borrowing for a trial, jury's still out on that. I like a 12oz trigger and having trouble finding one. Any suggestions?
 
Alex D said:
No. ZERO trimming or mods needed. Action dropped right in and fit perfectly...also the .223 MDT poly mag fits perfectly! For other calibers Magpul AICS mags are available ... I would have preferred those since they are better quality (Have them for my Bergara B-14 HMR in 6.5CDM) but Magpul makes no .223 mag and other Magpul AICS mags (.308 etc.) in Tikka actions require trimming of the retaining lips up top as they are a little too wide to fit the Tikka action. MDT however fits perfectly.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks for confirming the MDT's, that's great to hear!

Waiting on my Sako Green Bravo at the moment
 
R_Swanson said:
Hey guys....

I am removing my rail from my CTR. I got the torx screws out with a copious amount of heat from a heat gun, but the rail itself WILL NOT move.

I read all the threads on this, so I expected the screws to be a PITA but I didnt know the rail would be hard as hell to remove after as well.

I am applying more heat to the rail right now but its not budging. Does it just need more and more heat, or am I missing a step?
Click to expand...

There loctite glue under the rail too, and the recoil pins are also in the rail.
But if you manage to remove the screws, the rail should come off there too.
Thin carpet knife plate under the rail and try to move the blade under the rail, i did remove one rail like so.
 
silhouette said:
Yeah it's a Thomson stock as per @Simia Dei post.
Just picked it up second hand. It seems very rigid but heavy as f***.
Bottom metal is Atlasworxs, more or less identical to CDI.
Trigger is a Davies, borrowing for a trial, jury's still out on that. I like a 12oz trigger and having trouble finding one. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

I still have the stock trigger with the yo Dave trigger spring. My local gun store guy also gave it a turn or so to the lighter side. It’s gotta be close to a 1lb 1.5lb pull tops. It’s super light and catches me off guard more times then not. I’m happy with it
 
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