No you will have to buy different mags. KRG and a ton of other retailers sell them.
Awesome, thank you mate
Just got my Bravo in today.
It mentions removing the "Spring Clip" from the trigger assembly. Does anyone have the torque value for that M6x20 fastening screw?
It mentions removing the "Spring Clip" from the trigger assembly. Does anyone have the torque value for that M6x20 fastening screw?
Thanks for the details. I have too many rifles, custom and factory, and am very happy with them, yet I'm drawn to doing a T3 build. You may be on to something...;-)
So much for the one gun man adage...
Same thread as action screw so I would say around 5NM. What is in my opinion much more important is to use Loctite on the screw, something like 243. If that screw get's loose she might fire when engaging or disengaging safety... or just by itself. One screw I always check when I have the action out of the stock. I also check/loctite our customers trigger screw on T3/Sako rifles.
edi
I know anything is worth what ever you are willing to pay for it, but..... I came into an "extra" Benelli Super Black Eagle II a couple years ago that I dont shoot (because I already have one). My local shop said he would trade me a new CTR 26in stainless for my shotgun and $150. Does this sound reasonable?
Every Tikka I had came with that screw super tight. Impossible to unscrew with my Fat Wheeler wrench set at maximum so I'm sure they are tighted way more than 60 lbs/in from factory
Well, it really depends on the model of SBE II (comfortech stock? Camo or black?), but I see them going for between $1300 and $1600. A new CTR SS runs $1150. depends on how much you want the CTR and how little you use/care about the SBE.
Meh, I'd offer a straight swap then.
Finally had a chance to try out some loads in my 223 Varmint T3x. Shot at 100 yards, hopefully I'll stretch it out next week.
Looks like 22.7 gr IMR 8208 XBR and Nosler 80gr CC works well @ 2591 average ES 62, left @ 2585 ES 8, pulled the right @ 2605 ES 21
Bottom right is 24.1 gr Varget and Nosler 80gr CC @2642 ES 48
Top right is 24.7 CFE223 and Nosler 80gr CC @ 2621 ES 35
Last edited:
Just want to confirm on a Tikka T3 action - they can be converted from long action to short with the purchase of a new bolt stop kit. Is that correct? Found a good deal on a long action T3 that I'd like to pick up and convert to a short action caliber but just want to double check first.
The B&C stock is a huge improvement! My CTR action dropped right in with no issue. I wanted to go the chassis route but really like CTR mags.
Does it require bedding?
Why I dont have this stock for my Tikka, I do have it for a Rem700. It has an aluminum bedding block, but I did a skim bed on it at the lug and tang. Helped with the movement of the action and more conistent groups
Hey, that looks a lot like mine!
I was considering a chassis, but I just like the familiar feel of the Bell & Carlson stock. It's clearly not hurting my groups any!
No bedding at all. Just dropped the action in and torqued the bolts.
This thread is not healthy for my wallet. I love my CTR in a MPA chassis. Every time I visit this thread I want to buy another T3x in .223. Love the idea. Definitely is becoming an addiction.
No sir.
Finally have my build complete:
Tikka T3 action
Bartlein Medium Palma (Smith work done by Moon at Crescent Customs)
6.5 Creedmoor
KRG Bravo
ARC M10 rings
SB PMII w/Gen II XR
Shot 10rds Hornady Precision Hunter and was really pleased for factory ammo with the results over my V3:
Now on to load development in my Lapua brass.
Tikka T3 action
Bartlein Medium Palma (Smith work done by Moon at Crescent Customs)
6.5 Creedmoor
KRG Bravo
ARC M10 rings
SB PMII w/Gen II XR
Shot 10rds Hornady Precision Hunter and was really pleased for factory ammo with the results over my V3:
Now on to load development in my Lapua brass.
Attachments
How are the ARC mags running with the KRG Bravo/Tikka combination?
I’ll let you know. Seems like the mags like handloads better than factory ammo because I loaded it longer but it’s too early to tell. Might have just needed to be broken in. It only had issues feeding twice today, but may have had to do with how the magazine was situated in the mag well or I short stroked the bolt. I’ll have to play around with it to find out.
Tikkas. I love my Tikkas! Accurate, smooth bolt, but god they have slow barrels. This is what I have seen from 3 different rifles. My current is a 20” factory 6.5. ELD-M 140 ammo gave me 2585. IMR4451 with the 140’s put me at 2550. RL17 with 140’s got me 2600. H4350 and the 140’s got me to 2625 but where can you find it?
For those that reload and want more speed from their slow T3X factory 6.5 barrels, RL16 is it! Today was my second range day with the loads and testing temp stability.
I have been using RL17 for a few years and while its accurate, its terrible with temp stability. I was seeing 70-85fps swings from shooting between the seasons. Today I tested my loads again from a Magnetospeed V3. Velocity stayed the same from a 53 degree day, to 73 degrees today. RL17 would have been a good 20-25fps faster.
( typical caution alert... DON’T copy my load). With that outta the way... I settled on 42.4g in Hornady brass, 140g Hornady bthp, and cci200 primers. Nothing special about the brass. FL resized, trimmed to 1.915, chamf/deburr... done. Rounds seated 2.820.
Now, for the good stuff...
20” (take note... 20”). 2685fps. 9.2 SD over 10 rounds. Thats a full 100fps faster than I was getting with the ELD-Match ammo. Oh yeah, half MOA. Zero over pressure signs.
So, that being said... I’ll be stock up on this stuff for sure. Hope this helps someone looking for a lil boost from their T3.
For those that reload and want more speed from their slow T3X factory 6.5 barrels, RL16 is it! Today was my second range day with the loads and testing temp stability.
I have been using RL17 for a few years and while its accurate, its terrible with temp stability. I was seeing 70-85fps swings from shooting between the seasons. Today I tested my loads again from a Magnetospeed V3. Velocity stayed the same from a 53 degree day, to 73 degrees today. RL17 would have been a good 20-25fps faster.
( typical caution alert... DON’T copy my load). With that outta the way... I settled on 42.4g in Hornady brass, 140g Hornady bthp, and cci200 primers. Nothing special about the brass. FL resized, trimmed to 1.915, chamf/deburr... done. Rounds seated 2.820.
Now, for the good stuff...
20” (take note... 20”). 2685fps. 9.2 SD over 10 rounds. Thats a full 100fps faster than I was getting with the ELD-Match ammo. Oh yeah, half MOA. Zero over pressure signs.
So, that being said... I’ll be stock up on this stuff for sure. Hope this helps someone looking for a lil boost from their T3.
I think the "slow barrel" issue is caliber specific. I have a T-3 Varmint in .223 that throws 75gr'rs at 2960fps. Certainly not a "slow" barrel at all.
Trieded searching this thread but could not find it.
What is the best way or best converter, to get a picatinny rail to the front of the factory stock?
What is the best way or best converter, to get a picatinny rail to the front of the factory stock?
Get a better stock IMHO I don't know of any that wouldn't require a little work.
Scott
The most solid way to do this is to use T-nuts drilled in from the inside and mounted with a little epoxy. No reason not to do it if you like your current stock. Note that if you have a sling stud on the stock now, that can be unscrewed and will be one of your two mounting points, leaving you to add just one more. Seekins, Atlas and others make solid picatinny rails for this purpose.
ETA: you can also choose to use a threaded insert if you have the ability to do so.
FWIW, I used this method on an HP Precision stock and it is as solid as a rock.
Last edited:
I just did this to my factory stock. I probably overkilled it, but I filled the voids between X-ribs with Devcon Liquid, then used a 1/4” drill with a 1/2” counterbore to create a spot for a t-nut, that I epoxied into place.
Seems pretty stout.
Thinking I will use an adaptor before jumping in and getting a Bravo.
Best swing stud to picatinny converter?
Best swing stud to picatinny converter?
This is the one I bought. From Amazon. Not fancy - but it works.
BLACKHAWK! Swivel Stud Picatinny Rail Adapter
I have the same one on my FVSR. It definitely shift a bit though...
Mine did not shift. But I didn't use that "gasket" that comes with it. Perhaps that made a difference.
I've got a Tikka T3X CTR in .260 Rem, I really dont like the factory magazine that came with the rifle. What's the best replacement bottom metal to use for the AICS mags.
While still running the factory CTR stock
Buy the Seekins SRS Rail, for less than the Black hawk $, http://www.seekinsprecision.com/srs-rail-1.html
Better rail too
Better rail too
Thanks for the responses guys!
There’s two options that I know of: Atlasworxs from Australia and Mountain Tactical/Tikka Performance (USA)
I haven’t used either, but if I ever decide to switch my CTR to AICS mags, I’m planning to go Atlasworxs, simply because I think it looks nicer. YMMV
Buy the Seekins SRS Rail, for less than the Black hawk $, http://www.seekinsprecision.com/srs-rail-1.html
Better rail too
I’ll second the Seekins rail, which is what I used for my stock. The longest rail (3.5 in spacing, I think) was JUST long enough to mount a t-nut and not cut into a rib in the stock. The Atlas rail may have the ability for even longer spacing, and would be a good choice as well.
Thanks for the info, also thinking of going to a KRG X-Ray chassis so that's another option, but if I ever build another tikka I can always use the ctr stock with the aics compatible bottom metal
Got my new TRG style bolt shroud from Sterk today. He was awesome to work with.
That bolt shroud looks really nice. Nice work.
@coltm4 turned out great, glad it got there safely. Matches perfectly with the KRG Bravo. Thanks for taking photos!
