What caliber?
243. Shot 90g eldx factory Hornady and have been beyond impressed. Wife’s first deer is in the photo, and right after her I took my b tag. Made for a fun pack out.
That little 90g eldx has killed 5 deer for us this year. First year hunting with something that didn’t start with a “3” and I’m beyond impressed with its terminal performance.
That gun is getting a makeover at the end of the year, but hopefully we can tag a couple more during gun deer season back home.
Another note, the Mathews fabrication flat hardware cheek piece is fricken awesome when combined with the tikka vertical grip.
We also have a matching 223, my wife being a new shooter and hunter got plenty of trigger time with the same system we hunted with thanks to saving some shooting the 223 all summer.
Yes, that riser does look nice. I make my own out of Kydex but those are cheap enough that it probably isn't worth my time.
Most of the meat I've taken over the past 12 years has been due to my excellent meat-harvesting tool from Tikka, a T3 Hunter in .308 Winchester.
Since it looks like we're posting tikka hunting pictures....
CO bull from 17
CO bull from 17
What sort of a makeover are you thinking?
For stocks, I like the look of the PSE E-Lite, for a stiff lightweight option with some ergonomics.
PSE E-Lite (Tikka T1X / T3 / T3X / CTR / UPR)
Description Specifications Options The PSE E-Lite is a hand-made, light weight, adjustable carbon fibre stock. The E-Lite incorporates PSE Composites' unique "ICS" (Integrated Carbon Skeleton). This internal carbon structure ensures that all PSE rifle stocks have an unrivaled strength-to-weight...
www.pse-composites.com What sort of a makeover are you thinking?
For stocks, I like the look of the PSE E-Lite, for a stiff lightweight option with some ergonomics.
PSE E-Lite (Tikka T1X / T3 / T3X / CTR / UPR)
Description Specifications Options The PSE E-Lite is a hand-made, light weight, adjustable carbon fibre stock. The E-Lite incorporates PSE Composites' unique "ICS" (Integrated Carbon Skeleton). This internal carbon structure ensures that all PSE rifle stocks have an unrivaled strength-to-weight...
It’s going to Hells canyon armory for a new carbon barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor and being bedded in an AG composites alpine hunter. Running MT tikka billet mags in a MT bottom metal, and a cerakote. Should be a great hunting rifle. I’ll be shipping it off soon here.
hunting tikkas??
This vermin killer is by far, my favorite rifle that I’ve ever owned. T3 superlight 223.
This vermin killer is by far, my favorite rifle that I’ve ever owned. T3 superlight 223.
I don't have a mountain tactical to compare it to but I bought a Area 419 a couple weeks ago. Very impressed. It was well machined and the finish was perfect. I looked at the MT rails too but the Area 419 stuck out to me as it is made of a higher (harder) grade of aluminum. MT will tell you that the grade doesn't make any difference and maybe it doesn't but at virtually the same price for the same features, I went with the one with the harder aluminum.
Good catch on the metal composition, had not noticed that. Only reason I was really debating was the MT rails at the moment are cheap! 50 bucks. Trying new things is fun though, and I like the lines of the area 419, really like how everything looks rounded out.
Gang, any idea where I can get some load data for 139 grain Scenars or 142 SMKs for my Tikka Tac A1? Looking around and don't see any threads. Thanks in advance.
Sako
Sako
Maybe the Area 419 option is the reason MT rails are on sale. It wasn't available (or I didn't see it) a couple years ago when I bought my last Tikka rail so maybe MT is feeling the competition. I bought several brands of rails over the years and I have to say that I doubt if I will buy anything else other than 419 in the future for Tikka builds. Simply a well thought out, well executed product.
This is out there as well. Stainless is harder than aluminum. Titanium is lighter than stainless. Yes the stainless is $125 but much tougher than aluminum hence the cost.
No I don't have one. I thought mountain tactical used to have a stainless rail but I can't find it.
Tikka T3 Picatinny Style Scope Mount
Premium scope base for Tikka T3 rifles. Picatinny style scope mount in Stainless Steel or Titanium, 100% Made in America
www.murphyprecision.com Where was this? Wisconsin?
I wasn't aware of this rail. Looks to be a good option, especially for heavy recoiling rounds.This is out there as well. Stainless is harder than aluminum. Titanium is lighter than stainless. Yes the stainless is $125 but much tougher than aluminum hence the cost.
No I don't have one. I thought mountain tactical used to have a stainless rail but I can't find it.
Tikka T3 Picatinny Style Scope Mount
Premium scope base for Tikka T3 rifles. Picatinny style scope mount in Stainless Steel or Titanium, 100% Made in America
Montana, and one in WY. Our gun deer season doesn’t open for another week yet.
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So..........I just put a Bix'n Andy trigger in my Tikka about a week ago. It came set @ 10 ounces. The funny thing is, I can touch, and tap the trigger, and it does not go off. I have to intentionally pull the trigger. Im not one of those guys that have had a million different Gucci triggers. I just have pulled a very few Jewels. They were set very light, and would go off, just by getting near them. Im pretty happy so far with my bix. It's a lot of dough, but there's nothing like it, tho.
It repeats exactly, each time, by my lyman gauge. I have never seen a trigger do that before.
It repeats exactly, each time, by my lyman gauge. I have never seen a trigger do that before.
Getting weaker with age maybe? ?
Vihtavuori has Scenar data for their powders: https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/rifle-reloading/?cartridge=95
Range day today.
Tested some new loads for the Krieger barrel.
Last trip was promising, last group with 100-meters and 5-shots was 0,34MOA.
I did gain COL with 2mm, closer to landing.
Groups was not getting smaller, only spreading and not that tight set as it was last time.
I had some of the old loads that i did not tested the trip before today.
COL was 2mm shorter, like the load that gave that 0,34 MOA.
So i did shoot last 10 rounds, 2,45g and 2,50g.
That 2,45g was a hit!.
I had shot 35 rounds before the last 5-shot group test, barrel was hot as hell, heat mirage was keepint the target hazy.
I tryed to blow the warm air after every shot, that i could hit the trigger, when the target was sharp behind the scope.
If that one flyer would not been there, that would be 5,25mm, that´s a 0.1805 MOA
.
Next trip i need to reload this load more, and these brass were full lenght sized, now i have brass, that has been swollen to my rifle champer, maybe it is giving even smaller groups, if the shooter head can take that pressure
Tested some new loads for the Krieger barrel.
Last trip was promising, last group with 100-meters and 5-shots was 0,34MOA.
I did gain COL with 2mm, closer to landing.
Groups was not getting smaller, only spreading and not that tight set as it was last time.
I had some of the old loads that i did not tested the trip before today.
COL was 2mm shorter, like the load that gave that 0,34 MOA.
So i did shoot last 10 rounds, 2,45g and 2,50g.
That 2,45g was a hit!.
I had shot 35 rounds before the last 5-shot group test, barrel was hot as hell, heat mirage was keepint the target hazy.
I tryed to blow the warm air after every shot, that i could hit the trigger, when the target was sharp behind the scope.
If that one flyer would not been there, that would be 5,25mm, that´s a 0.1805 MOA
.Next trip i need to reload this load more, and these brass were full lenght sized, now i have brass, that has been swollen to my rifle champer, maybe it is giving even smaller groups, if the shooter head can take that pressure
Hey Viking, really nice shooting. Please tell us about the rifle and what your loads are. What your shooting, maybe some specifics about the components of the loads.
Thanks
Sako
Thanks
Sako
Range day today.
Tested some new loads for the Krieger barrel.
Last trip was promising, last group with 100-meters and 5-shots was 0,34MOA.
I did gain COL with 2mm, closer to landing.
Groups was not getting smaller, only spreading and not that tight set as it was last time.
I had some of the old loads that i did not tested the trip before today.
COL was 2mm shorter, like the load that gave that 0,34 MOA.
So i did shoot last 10 rounds, 2,45g and 2,50g.
That 2,45g was a hit!.
I had shot 35 rounds before the last 5-shot group test, barrel was hot as hell, heat mirage was keepint the target hazy.
I tryed to blow the warm air after every shot, that i could hit the trigger, when the target was sharp behind the scope.
If that one flyer would not been there, that would be 5,25mm, that´s a 0.1805 MOA
Next trip i need to reload this load more, and these brass were full lenght sized, now i have brass, that has been swollen to my rifle champer, maybe it is giving even smaller groups, if the shooter head can take that pressure
Thank´s
It´s a Tikka T3X action, it has 308win barrel.
Now it is spitting 6.5mm pills from Krieger SS 1/8 twist 24" barrel.
Ensio Firearms custom job for the barrel.
KRG Whiskey chassis, and KRG Midas 2-stage trigger.
Ceramet custom cerakoted.
Ase Utra SL5i suppressor.
Spuhr scope mount.
Kahles K624i scope with MSR-ki reticle, i think that is the best tactical retilce.
I have only shot Lapua 123gr Scenar with that rifle for now, the load that worked today very well was, 37,8 gr.
Next i plan to move to 139gr Scenar and VV 160 powder.
It´s a Tikka T3X action, it has 308win barrel.
Now it is spitting 6.5mm pills from Krieger SS 1/8 twist 24" barrel.
Ensio Firearms custom job for the barrel.
KRG Whiskey chassis, and KRG Midas 2-stage trigger.
Ceramet custom cerakoted.
Ase Utra SL5i suppressor.
Spuhr scope mount.
Kahles K624i scope with MSR-ki reticle, i think that is the best tactical retilce.
I have only shot Lapua 123gr Scenar with that rifle for now, the load that worked today very well was, 37,8 gr.
Next i plan to move to 139gr Scenar and VV 160 powder.
My new B&C Medalist #6 stock arrived today. Not a lot out there on how these fit the Tikkas so I thought I'd share some pics. Two things I think are important to know;
1) The aluminum bedding block and recoil lug fit perfectly. I had to get the alignment exact to allow the receiver to fit down over the recoil lug. After installing the action screws and torqueing to 65in/lb. I loosened the rear action screw to see if there was any movement. There was none! The receiver stayed exactly in place and pushing down on the rear of the receiver induced no movement.
2) The fit of the factory Tikka bottom metal is outstanding! I was not expecting the fit to be this good.
The finish of the stock is very consistent. The adjustable comb has E-clips that allow you to quickly set it back to your height if you remove it. The only things I don't really like is the need of an allen wrench to remove the cheekpiece so the bolt can come out and the somewhat large gap between the barrel and the stock. The stock is opened up to accept a pretty large barrel so the gap is to be expected. I may swap out the allen screw on the comb adjustment for a thumbscrew of some sort.
Bob
2019-11-14_04-21-12 by Bob, on Flickr
2019-11-14_04-20-54 by Bob, on Flickr
2019-11-14_04-21-37 by Bob, on Flickr
1) The aluminum bedding block and recoil lug fit perfectly. I had to get the alignment exact to allow the receiver to fit down over the recoil lug. After installing the action screws and torqueing to 65in/lb. I loosened the rear action screw to see if there was any movement. There was none! The receiver stayed exactly in place and pushing down on the rear of the receiver induced no movement.
2) The fit of the factory Tikka bottom metal is outstanding! I was not expecting the fit to be this good.
The finish of the stock is very consistent. The adjustable comb has E-clips that allow you to quickly set it back to your height if you remove it. The only things I don't really like is the need of an allen wrench to remove the cheekpiece so the bolt can come out and the somewhat large gap between the barrel and the stock. The stock is opened up to accept a pretty large barrel so the gap is to be expected. I may swap out the allen screw on the comb adjustment for a thumbscrew of some sort.
Bob
2019-11-14_04-21-12 by Bob, on Flickr2019-11-14_04-20-54 by Bob, on Flickr2019-11-14_04-21-37 by Bob, on FlickrMy new B&C Medalist #6 stock arrived today. Not a lot out there on how these fit the Tikkas so I thought I'd share some pics. Two things I think are important to know;
1) The aluminum bedding block and recoil lug fit perfectly. I had to get the alignment exact to allow the receiver to fit down over the recoil lug. After installing the action screws and torqueing to 65in/lb. I loosened the rear action screw to see if there was any movement. There was none! The receiver stayed exactly in place and pushing down on the rear of the receiver induced no movement.
2) The fit of the factory Tikka bottom metal is outstanding! I was not expecting the fit to be this good.
The finish of the stock is very consistent. The adjustable comb has E-clips that allow you to quickly set it back to your height if you remove it. The only things I don't really like is the need of an allen wrench to remove the cheekpiece so the bolt can come out and the somewhat large gap between the barrel and the stock. The stock is opened up to accept a pretty large barrel so the gap is to be expected. I may swap out the allen screw on the comb adjustment for a thumbscrew of some sort.
Bob
Very nice Bob!
Is that a CTR that you have installed? I have a 223 Varmint I need a stock for, this might be the ticket.
Since it has an aluminum bedding block, does that mean it doesn't have to be bedded? Just trying to learn.
Any reason to get this over a KRG Bravo?
It is a CTR. It does not need to be bedded. The bedding block is pretty much the same as bolting into a chassis. I seriously considered the KRG Bravo but went this route because I prefer a more traditional style stock. I wouldn't say I dislike the skins-over-chassis concept but, I prefer a more solid feel. This is my first Tikka so I can't say much about them but I've seen that a lot of people are pretty excited about the new Bravo that will be inlet for the CTR mags. I like that the CTR mags are shorter than the AICS mags so that was another reason I went for this stock. The new Bravo is not yet available but, is supposedly coming very soon.
Bob
Bob
This...
...and the fact that I feel bedding is over rated. Not that I think it is totally unnecessary but, a lot of rifles in cheap plastic stocks shoot very well with no bedding. I can say without a doubt that this B&C bedding block fits better than my XLR Element in R700 LA.
Of course, shooting it will likely be the determining factor.
Bob
What do you do if that happens?
A small amount of bedding to support the space under the action screws should take care of it.
Bob
You guys talked me into the area 419 rail. Found them on midway for 70 bucks and couldn’t say no. Also have some seekins rings coming.
Now I just need a brake, a bravo spigot and Arca rail, some mags, and a RRS Harris mount, bolt handle, spare bolt stop hardware and I’ll be all set. Oh and a scope level.
That B&C looks tempting over the bravo, I just need to look away.
Now I just need a brake, a bravo spigot and Arca rail, some mags, and a RRS Harris mount, bolt handle, spare bolt stop hardware and I’ll be all set. Oh and a scope level.
That B&C looks tempting over the bravo, I just need to look away.
You mentioned Seekins Rings...Another company that is often overlooked that makes great rings at a lower price than the well known companies is TPS. I have 3 sets of their aluminum rings and have found them to be great. They also make steel rings if you really want 'heavy duty' but the aluminum has worked well for me at a lighter weight than steel. I have had one Leupold scope in and out of them on several rifles with absolutely no ring marks. Never had a ring related issue with TPS and that is all I buy now. I think my last pair that i bought was on sale for less than $80. so saves a bit of $ when compared to the big name rings.
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Cousin's CTR post rebarrel from PVA turned out well. He just needs a can himself and it would be set.
Sterk handle/knob came in the mail today. Getting the factory handle off was a bear! There is no way they installed it by hand. Since this was my first time removing one, I was very concerned that I was doing something wrong. I watched a half a dozen videos on bolt disassembly and decided I was doing it right. I took the bolt to the shop and secured it in a vise and knocked the handle out with a brass drift and a 4oz ball pein. Once the firing pin was out of the way, I attempted to reinstall the factory handle and it was not even close to sliding in; the Sterk was even tighter. Decided to lap in the bolt handle using the factory handle and 800 grit lapping paste. Took about half an hour to get the fit to a point where it was tight but could be installed and removed by hand.
2019-11-15_02-38-47 by Bob, on Flickr
2019-11-15_02-39-01 by Bob, on Flickr
Bob
2019-11-15_02-38-47 by Bob, on Flickr2019-11-15_02-39-01 by Bob, on FlickrBob
I was going to replace the bolt shroud on my T3X TAC A1 because I didn't like the idea of the plastic composition. But when I took the shroud off I found it is metal. So the TAC A 1 has a different shroud than a T3X?
It's easier to get the original bolt knob out if you put the bolt knob in the vice (instead of the action), and tap the action with a small soft hammer.
Thanks. I guess I will head back to Anarchy and trade the shroud toward a KRG Bravo for my Remington.
What stock is that? Looks like McMillan but what model?
DId you get the handle direct from Sterk?Sterk handle/knob came in the mail today. Getting the factory handle off was a bear! There is no way they installed it by hand. Since this was my first time removing one, I was very concerned that I was doing something wrong. I watched a half a dozen videos on bolt disassembly and decided I was doing it right. I took the bolt to the shop and secured it in a vise and knocked the handle out with a brass drift and a 4oz ball pein. Once the firing pin was out of the way, I attempted to reinstall the factory handle and it was not even close to sliding in; the Sterk was even tighter. Decided to lap in the bolt handle using the factory handle and 800 grit lapping paste. Took about half an hour to get the fit to a point where it was tight but could be installed and removed by hand.
Bob
6.5CM so hes only 19 but got him eaten up with shooting ha. Both he and his younger brother want cans. Especially the younger one since he’s really sensitive to loud sounds. They also have a 16” AR and a 10.3” pistol. Just can’t get my uncle on board to make the trust. I think the resonator R2 is the way to go for a first can. Would be right at 7” with something like a griffin plan A and around 13-14oz. Could be ran on any of their guns at that point and is only $500. I picked up a turbo k with plan A that I’m waiting for approval and am stoked with all ive seen of yhms cans. Really hoping they do a resonator k around 5.5-6” or I’ll probably pick up a Vox S
It’s a McMillan A5
Ruger Precision/Scout 308 Win - 10rd Magazine
If you need a mag for your Ruger Scout or Precision Rifle, the 10-round .308 Win. is for you.
www.anarchyoutdoors.com Just in case anyone needs some 10rd accurate mags.... and you can live with having the ruger logo stamped on the base plate....
45 bucks ain't too shabby
Sterk handle/knob came in the mail today. Getting the factory handle off was a bear! There is no way they installed it by hand. Since this was my first time removing one, I was very concerned that I was doing something wrong. I watched a half a dozen videos on bolt disassembly and decided I was doing it right. I took the bolt to the shop and secured it in a vise and knocked the handle out with a brass drift and a 4oz ball pein. Once the firing pin was out of the way, I attempted to reinstall the factory handle and it was not even close to sliding in; the Sterk was even tighter. Decided to lap in the bolt handle using the factory handle and 800 grit lapping paste. Took about half an hour to get the fit to a point where it was tight but could be installed and removed by hand.
Bob
Nice!
Does the CTR come with a black bolt body, or did you blacken it? My Varmint has silver bolt body. Thought about trying to blacken it, but worried that would effect the smoothness of the action.
It came black. I don't know what the coating is but it does add some thickness. I've cerakoted bolts on Remingtons and they've run fine.
Bob
