Vortex LHT 4.5-22 is just under 22oz. Good scope for the $$. Not the best for competition dialing, but the reticle should be enough for most stages
It´s all about the hand size.
Mine is XXL.
QQ for you Tikka guys. I've got an itch to do more elk hunting, and now that I've got a 30 cal can... I want to do it more quietly... So I've got a 22" superlite in 30-06 t3x. Trying to figure out what caliber to go with that would perform as good as 30-06, if not better, but in a 20" bbl. My t3x is .632 OD at the muzzle so its too skinny for 5/8x24 and long skinny bbls and cans just look weird to me. I was thinking 300 WSM or 300 PRC, but not sure how to get around the -06 bolt face thats in the gun now. Thoughts?
What exactly are you missing out on with your .30-06 20" barrel? A .308 caliber magnum like the ones you mention both would ideally want even longer barrels. More powder and a short barrel will always give you higher muzzle pressure (resulting in more wear on your suppressor).
If you want less muzzle pressure and a more quiet gun, a boring .308 is a sensible option.
But if you want something just for the hell of it, why not a .30-284? Same bolt head as the one you've got for the .30-06, pretty much the same performance but heaps cooler. I'm no gunsmith, perhaps it's even possible just to re-ream your ought six barrel and you're done? So you don't have to carry the troublesome burden of using your father's and grandfather's old -06 anymore.
If you want to change bolt faces, buy another bolt, $370. Build what you want.
The issue is I can't easily thread and suppress the factory 22" superlite barrel. So that means new barrel, and besides... I wanted something just a tad shorter, like 20". This would counteract the thicker barrel needed for a can, and keep my length shorter when the can is on.
So just thinking about different calibers... Nothing wrong with 30-06, just looking for something different. Honestly... I might just get another can and do a 35 Whelen, every elk I've seen has been inside of 300yds and 35whelen looks to have a pretty significant advantage within those ranges.
Good to know about the bolt though, I wasn't sure if those were interchangeable within a long action tikka or what.
So just thinking about different calibers... Nothing wrong with 30-06, just looking for something different. Honestly... I might just get another can and do a 35 Whelen, every elk I've seen has been inside of 300yds and 35whelen looks to have a pretty significant advantage within those ranges.
Good to know about the bolt though, I wasn't sure if those were interchangeable within a long action tikka or what.
Which can?
Just get a 20” .308 CTR it’s already threaded 5/8x24 for the same price as fucking around with a new barrel/bolt for your 30.06 you have two nice rifles.
Another awesome thing about KRG is, that you can run a TRG bipod straight on it.
One of the most stable, robust bipods on the market.
Is there consensus on whether to shoot out factory barrel or pull it during the build and just start with a custom barrel? This is my second Tikka but I didn’t alter my first. This one is an ultra lite T3x in 6.5CM w/ 24” pencil barre. I put it in an Oryx chassis, 20moa rail, mpa mount, ATACR 5-25, arca rail, Sterk swept bolt, no bipod yet. Can’t decide if I should yank the barrel or just shoot it. Thoughts?
Why pull it? Have you shot it? I recently got a lite compact in 6.5C, and it shoots 3/8" groups. Obviously not everytime, but often enough that it is probably mostly me when it doesn't. Heated up, bipod, bag, sling, it doesn't shift. Awesome shooter. I put a Tikka Performance scope mount on it and an SWFA 2-10 ultralight. Gun weighs very little and shoots as well as anything. I have another in a Bravo chassis and another in a J Allen, but they don't actually perform better than the factory stock. I'm very impressed with that stock.
Yes, yes it does! Anteater might be a perfect name for it. Good call.
Have not fired a round through it yet. Scope just arrived today. I can load for it tomorrow and shoot this weekend if I’m going to leave the factory on. Im not as concerned about the aesthetics as I am burning 42gr of powder and getting 6.5 Grendel performance out of a slow barreled Creed.
I don't like light barrels.
My rifles all have heavy/Varmint barrels.
That is due to my preference for longer range shooting.
Like waste even less.
Just shoot the shit out of it, and replace it.
It's your rifle, rig it exactly as you want.
My rifles all have heavy/Varmint barrels.
That is due to my preference for longer range shooting.
Like waste even less.
Just shoot the shit out of it, and replace it.
It's your rifle, rig it exactly as you want.
I have not found that to be the case with any of my Tikka lite's. It might be bad for barrel life eventually, but it has not affected my groups or POI. I'm thinking of shooting a lite in the next comp I shoot.
+1I don't like light barrels.
My rifles all have heavy/Varmint barrels.
That is due to my preference for longer range shooting.
Like waste even less.
Just shoot the shit out of it, and replace it.
It's your rifle, rig it exactly as you want.
Well said. Knowing how well these Tikka barrels typically shoot makes it tough for me to want to rip off a virgin barrel without even trying. That’s what happened with my last one. It shot too good for me to fuck with it. I ended up using it as a meat stick. It served that purpose perfectly.
Good looking rig. I like how you have your bipod setup. Is that a spigot with an arca adapter for the Harris? I have an arca rail on my chassis and I’m trying to figure out how I want to run the bipod.
Area 419 adapter with RRS arca mount?
Light barrels are great for stalking and long tabs through the bush.
They quickly pale in comparison when multiple rounds at distance are required.
Regardless of the type, you can have confidence in your Tikka/Sako barrel.
Yes, I am totally biased.
That is due to experience, not just hearsay.
Tikka may be referred to as the"Poor Man's Sako", but it is dollar for dollar a worthy challenger to any other brand in it's price range.
I own an AI, a Sako, and a Tikka.
The Tikka is my everyday bangstick.
They perform.
They quickly pale in comparison when multiple rounds at distance are required.
Regardless of the type, you can have confidence in your Tikka/Sako barrel.
Yes, I am totally biased.
That is due to experience, not just hearsay.
Tikka may be referred to as the"Poor Man's Sako", but it is dollar for dollar a worthy challenger to any other brand in it's price range.
I own an AI, a Sako, and a Tikka.
The Tikka is my everyday bangstick.
They perform.
Well boys, behold the Anteater…as per reubenski. Thank you, sir. I’m gonna roll with that one.
I think tomorrow I’ll run a few wet patches and dry patches down the tube. Load 25 rounds and see what it’s got. I’ll post the results later.
I think tomorrow I’ll run a few wet patches and dry patches down the tube. Load 25 rounds and see what it’s got. I’ll post the results later.
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Got a Tikka T1x, and am so impressed with it, that as I started to research for a 308, I think I’m settled on the t3
My question is, seeing other builds and possibly your own, what would you do differently if anything for the performance vs price?
I have a bit over 1k set aside for this. It’ll be mainly for deer hunting, but have a maven rs3 for down the road for some western hunts
Debating if I should just save money and get the bare bones for 700, or the ember roughtec for 1k, or go custom and dump a bit of money into it
I realize this may be more of a personal preference question, but really just looking for opinions and such
Thanks for any input
My question is, seeing other builds and possibly your own, what would you do differently if anything for the performance vs price?
I have a bit over 1k set aside for this. It’ll be mainly for deer hunting, but have a maven rs3 for down the road for some western hunts
Debating if I should just save money and get the bare bones for 700, or the ember roughtec for 1k, or go custom and dump a bit of money into it
I realize this may be more of a personal preference question, but really just looking for opinions and such
Thanks for any input
Tikka Super Varmint in 6.5 Creedmoor, with a GRS Bifrost stock.
It's my everyday feral basher.
It's my everyday feral basher.
Thought about that. It might need a bushing with that toothpick barrel!That really doesn't look too bad. Now get it threaded and screw a suppressor on it
Depends on the can. Thunderbeast does do a face mount cb brake. Have to send it to them though.
My Lite with the brake. Barrel measured 0.616" at the muzzle.
I’m my opinion the bare bones models win the performance/ price equation by a land slide. As I said above, I had a t3 lite stainless that shot so good I refused to change anything including the stock. The beauty of the platform is that the receivers are made so well, you can change barrels without needing a gunsmith and/or sending the gun off to get square. They actually make them like they are supposed to. Upgrade as little or as much as you want to taste or as you can afford it while keeping great accuracy and a smooth action the whole time.
Back in the summer I had to get my 20” Veil Wideland in 30-06 from a gun store in Commiefornia of all places…they sourced them from Canada…best of luck finding the gun you’re looking for!
I believe that is the over pressure vent hole there is one either side.
My original 308 TAC has threads visible like this beyond the chamber end of the barrel. If you note that the barrel fitted to the action sets the bolt face position to get the correct head space. The cut thread on the receiver has to be longer than the barrel thread to allow the correct seating depth.Yeah could be.
Cleaned bolt, firing pin assembly and shroud with acetone. Then polished with steel wool. Dry fire runs smoothly now.
Gotta get some range time to verify all good
Still wonder about those treads by the chamber. Seems nobody else i talked to has them
If I'm not mistaken the receiver has a standard thread to take ALL calibre barrels. The larger calibres bolt faces are deeper than the smaller calibres, due to the larger exposed case end, thus the barrel is set deeper to accommodate the differences.
The thread has to be longer than all barrel threads to endure that the headspace can be set correctly.
Yes, it will touch. The dovetail of the handle is the same width as the cut out in the bolt body - look into remington bolt handle timing if you are curious, you will also notice the action matches the angle of the dovetail on the bolt handle to guide this camming action.
The T3 receiver has a primary extraction ramp built in if you look closely the front edge of the bolt slot is vertical, then near the top it angles backwards. So when you throw the bolt open, it rotates until the inner forward edge of the bolt handle shaft hits the extractor ramp & forces the case rearward. Unless you shoot very heavy loads you don't even notice its there. But if you ever get a sticky case you will be glad of it.
Check the firing pin ramp on the bolt end. Make sure its lubed & smooth.
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got the clamp for my atlas for Christmas, so I had to buy the 12” rail for it as I wasn’t equipped yet. I wanted the system for my 7RM on a rem 700, but decided to try it out on the Tikka before leaving it full time on the Remington.
Worked out fairly well, likely get a 10” for the tikka.
Worked out fairly well, likely get a 10” for the tikka.
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Wha
Sweet. What kind of magazine is that?
Anybody know how much weight is reduced when cutting a 308 Lite barrel from 22.5" down to 18" or 16".
Tldr. Not much. 4.5 ounces or 7.4 ounces.
Assuming using numbers for profile that I measured on my lite.
Legend:
Diameter [Dia in mm] back from muzzle {bfm in mm} (barrel length) <bl in mm>
Muzzle 0.616 [15.64] 0 {0} (24.33) <618>
.620 [15.75] 1.358 {34.5} (23) <584.2>
.630 [16] 2.57 {65.28} (21.75) <552.45>
.640 [16.25] 3.81 {96.77} (20.5) <520.7>
.650 [16.5] 5.05 {128.27} (19.25) <488.95>
.660 [16.75] 6.27 {159.25} (18.06) <458.72>
Recommended od for 9/16 shoulder .662 [16.81] 6.625 {168.27} (17.7) <449.58>
0.673 [17.1] 8.08 {205.23} (16.25) <412.75>
Beyond this point has to be registered as an SBR
At front of tupperware 0.711 [18.06] (11) <279.4>
Recommended od for 5/8 0.725 [18.41] (9.33) <236.98>
Only using 23" to relative length you asked.
(0.62", 0.66", and 0.673" numbers). Creating cylinders that are 4" and 6" long with online calculator.
Removing a .308 bore from those numbers.
Assuming a density of 0.2790lbs/inch cubed.
18" barrel you cut off somewhere between 4.1 - 4.8 ounces.
16.5" barrel you lose 7.2 - 7.6 ounces.
Might be off slightly but it will only be off by ounces.
Ooohh math! 
I feel my 308 is a bit front heavy now.. and the suppressor I am going to use is 12ounces..
So it will become more front heavy it seems even if I cut it down to 16.5".
I feel my 308 is a bit front heavy now.. and the suppressor I am going to use is 12ounces..
So it will become more front heavy it seems even if I cut it down to 16.5".
I prefer slightly front heavy for off-hand shooting. Have a 12oz and a 7oz suppressor on 20" rifles. The one with the 7 oz is perfect.
edi
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More weight is better.
Either balance out with weights, a bag, or adjust your rifle sling.
Either balance out with weights, a bag, or adjust your rifle sling.
Tikkas have a high performance to price ratio. The .308 will lead to others… The one thing I’d do differently is take advantage of high quality easily swappable direct mount Spuhr ring mounts and just buy a small number of high quality optics that can be traded across your rifles. Start with one great scope and don’t buy a bunch of cheaper optics that will end up costing more.
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