- Thread starter tokiwartooth
- Start date
You could still see the woodgrain on all the original photos. They got them very dull and dark. I don’t know if it was linseed oil, but I really like how they look. Do you think that’s Chuck Mawhinney in the middle of those six guys?
I haven’t studied CMs face but middle man’s head looks too round.
I have a .223 M40 I built on a Dep Taylor stock and used only pure linseed oil on it.
It did come out dark until it gets in sunlight than it shows a deep red.
The stock is kind of grain boring where it counts on the wrist.
Not a looker but functional and of the type the mil favored….
M40 in Pure Tung Oil…..not red, tobacco brown…..
And the latest also in Pure Tung Oil with extra polishing steps
And the latest also in Pure Tung Oil with extra polishing steps
Good stuff.
Haven’t used dark but the regular stuff gives better weather protection than linseed while both are little better than nothing.
There are others that give more depth/protection but for ease of maintenance and being able to freshen up there is nothing better than PTO or cold pressed linseed oil in my mind.
Pair it with parkerizing and you have the only finishes endorsed by God in the Bible.
Post #4 has his contact info.
I’m back. Got put in SH jail for a month.
welcome back! Sent you a PM. Wanna send you a Redfield for that satin black finish.
Real Milk Paint Dark Tung Oil…
Then mix 1/3 beeswax, 1/3 Turpentine, 1/3 Linseed or Tung oil. Melt the bees wax in a double boiler. Remove from the heat and add the linseed/Tung oil and Turp. Let it harden up.
Tom’s 1/3 mix.
I'm probably going to send Toki my Redfield but quick question a little off topic. My Redfield has hashes but no indication of hash values or direction for up. I've never mounted it so not tried. Counter clockwise for up? 1moa value?
Just make a 1" or 1/2" grid on a sheet of paper. Like a section 2" wide by 10"....you don't need to go overboard. Just grab a ruler and make one.
Set it up at 50yds away. Get it exactly 50yds away from the erector on your scope.
At 50yds....1" is equal to roughly 2 moa. Hence a 1/2" grid be better. On a variable power scope you will no doubt find at max magnification or a very specific magnification your hashmark's will be say perfectly 1 or 2 moa....a very useable spacing.
I'm surprised you don't hear of guys taking old mil/moa mixed SFP optics and dial back the magnification from the "mil" setting....and set it to a "moa" setting instead. 3.438 moa per mil can pretty easily made into 4 moa per mil....with a half mil hashmark even better. Then it's 2 moa spacings basically. I'm pretty sure the old 4-20 scopes with mils at 10X could be zoomed in to 1 moa per half mil spacing.
That's a very nice build! I see that you've got a square corner Redfield base that has a matte finish (rings too). Please tell us about the base and rings you're using, I'm really curious about the matte finish and how you chose that over the polished blued finish. If possible, please give us a rundown of the parts and anything else about the build.
Have you had time to zero the scope yet? It looks great on your rifle, Toki is doing a great job with these! At some point I'm going to need to borrow one of his scopes so I can photograph it and document it for a project I'm working on.
Thank you, I appreciate it. The mount isn't genuine, it's a badger ordnance repro, I just added the R. I'll never afford the real stuff, so I clone it as best I can.
The action is a 6-digit, so the bolt and bottom metal, etc are correct. I did my own clipslotting.
The stock is a real M40 stock I got cheap because the barrel channel had been hogged out badly. I had to bed the whole thing to build it back up.
The barrel is Douglas, with proof marks and date code I added.
I haven't shot it yet, waiting on the stock for my M40A1 so I can take both out.
Attachments
Great work! Did you find and use Badger’s 306-69 for 6 and 7 digit R700 actions? Or a 306-69B for R700s with a letter-prefix and later actions? If the latter, any issues on fit and zero’ing the scope?
Thanks, I'm not sure which one it is, I bought it used. I did the check where I screwed down the front and checked the back with feeler gauges. It was a nice fit.
Any pictures of the blackies?
PM sent
Just sent Toki my Y prefix to get the satin black treatment. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
Haven’t done them yet. Have to get the greenies done. Here’s my ARTel I did in the past. Same finish as the blackies…
Pm sent
Got the black dye mixed up, soda blasting the stripped aluminum before wiring all the parts up to go into the sulfuric acid bath.
Just finished up hogslife Gen 2, looks beautiful.
Just finished up hogslife Gen 2, looks beautiful.
Hogslife will have to post given I already sent it back to him.
Hello everyone!
Just to let you know, I’m alive. Sounds like someone with a chip on their shoulder may have started a false rumor about me.
Knock on wood, I’m only 57, I may take Viagra once in a while, but plan on being around for a while.
Just to let you know, I’m alive. Sounds like someone with a chip on their shoulder may have started a false rumor about me.
Knock on wood, I’m only 57, I may take Viagra once in a while, but plan on being around for a while.
Thanks for posting Toki
“Just say the report of my death has been grossly exaggerated.” Mark Twain
What's going on with that bolt? Is this an airsoft gun or something?
Looks like a CZ or something similar in .223, .300 BO, 7.62x39
What’s the typical cost of the anodizing? Newer 3-15x56 scope.
It is a Remington 40X in .22lr, a clone M40 build I did...
DW
Had to repair one of mine, had a bunch of spare shell parts, so I gave her a new body.
