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Whats your BIG BORE?

Is the Gibbs rifled?

I have a .62cal Baker Rifle (flintlock). It’s a clone BUT and they made it smooth bore instead of doing it correct with a rifled barrel. If it was rifled it would be my favorite hunting rifle
Yes fortunately the Gibbs is rifled

Thing packs a wallop
 
Yes, freebore is very critical and these guys making 'golf ball cannons' don't take into account how much a golf ball deforms and 'squishes' when it is impacted by a shock. Like a powder charge. And unless there is so much freebore that you end up with huge blowby (or you have a stupidly short barrel like my Coehorn Golf Ball mortar) you risk blowing up your tube.

However... I will send you some pictures of the projectiles I use. Turned bar-stock Aluminum with about .050" Freebore... and a hollow tail that blows out like a big Minie Ball. You can buy the bar stock dirt cheap on eBay (drops) so for about $100 and an afternoon on the lathe, I can make 100 or more projectiles... enough for about 4 years!!!! The other nice thing about the aluminum is that it's light! You can shoot a big projectile at relatively high speed (flat trajectory) with a very light and safe powder charge. You can't do that with iron or lead. And the zinc alloy balls that people make are great, but the cost adds up on that stuff, too!

I even made up some very cool half-scale U.S. Ammo boxes/limber boxes.

Another tip... make yourself a tool that will let you pre-pack powder into tin-foil 'bags' for fast loading.

I'll post some pix later! But you can have a ball shooting that. And your instinct to not shoot golf balls is a good one!

Again, love your cannon and those half-scales are just too cool!

Cheers,

Sirhr


This is how I make my "pellets".

The aluminum foil is cut into 6" squares and formed over the wooden forming tool. This is then placed into the forming block and the 35mm film canister is used to measure the powder (525 grains per canister). Then the aluminum foil is folded over into a "pellet". Two "pellets" make one charge.

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What did you see!

I was trying to identify the "splash" of the projectile. My first attempts were to shoot into the "lake" (all rock quarries have a lake). The cannon was on the hill where the scales and stock piles were located. Range was 300 yards from an elevation of 80 feet. Target was a "lake" of about 5 acres in size. I couldn't hit the lake - or at least couldn't see the splash. I have military sniper rifles in my collection, but did not build this piece to be a Sniper Cannon.

So I moved the cannon down to the edge of the lake and shot into it. Range 75' and the elevation was about 30 inches. Sure, what could go wrong here? Yep, splashed into the lake about five times (skipping across) and over the top of the berm surrounding the lake. Distance across the lake 400 yards. I wish I could have skipped a rock like that in my youth.

Hitting the water was not giving me the information I wanted. There was a rather large sand pile down by the lake's edge. Think about a two car garage maybe 20 feet high. They sell sand (and sea shells down by the sea shore) from the pile and use an end loader to take it from the pile. I tell you this to let you know the face of the pile was approximately an 80 degree slope.

Anyway, back up and shoot into the sand pile. My wife is taking a video. We can see the splash into the sand, but can't find any golf ball. After a couple of more shots, we still see splashes but no balls. The last shot was a pink golf ball. Still saw the splash, but still no ball. We load up the cannon since we were out of ammo anyway and drive home.

I load the video on my computer and examine the film frame by frame. I can see the ball exit the bore (pink balls are kinda like tracers). I see the ball strike the sand - and ricochet off - and arch over the top of the pile - and go who knows where.

Time to stop shooting golf balls into sand piles.
 
Here are some photos of the aluminum slugs I make.

Oh... they whistle in just the best way!!! So I am told!

View attachment 7056383View attachment 7056384View attachment 7056385View attachment 7056386


How about some particulars?

Caliber?
Length?
Weight?
Type and weight of charge?

I don't often shoot projectiles from mine. I find it just as much fun to shoot blanks at the football games and at my BA-DA BA-DA BING BANG Rally (military vehicle rally).

I did buy a metal lathe, when I was building my cannon. I have always wanted a metal lathe, but metal work and wood work don't go well in the same location. Metal doesn't like sawdust and wood doesn't like oil.

I like to turn aluminum because I still haven't got the knack for sharpening the tools for the metal lathe (lantern post and HSS tooling). I do often use the metal lathe to turn projectiles for my US military "high explosive" collection. Sometimes you just can't find the parts you need. Sometimes that works - sometimes it doesn't. For instance, I bought a bunch of aluminum to create projectiles for my M-385 MK-19 belt. I got as far as cutting the round bar into the appropriate lengths - about 12 pieces, if I remember correctly. Then I got sidetracked and didn't get started on the turnings. Shortly thereafter - I found enough actual projectiles for the cases. Good news - correct projectiles for the cases. Bad news - one long piece of expensive round stock now in shorter, not so useful, pieces.
 
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I did my elephant hunting with a pre WW1 Rigby .470 double.
I now use a .416 Rigby and a .375 both on Mag Mausers.
 
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My best shooting bolt is a .300 H&H Remington 700. It was built for precision. Not really big bore. But odd choice on my part. Reloading for this cartridge is an art form. Ejects like butter. What I like about this thread is the lack of brakes. You're probably scaring people, lol.
 
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Honorable mention to Jerry Shriver for his .444 Marlin to bust bunkers.
 

This WAS mine; but I loaned it to a relative and "lost" it in the divorce..... Its a copy of a Russian B-11. Its a 1 Pounder (fires one pound balls cast in a fishing weight mold OR golf balls). I fired more golf balls than lead balls. Golf ball could be exciting when they hit something hard.... I had plans to make flechette loads but that never happened.

It used a cannon lock with musket caps. It was designed to be towed (just like the original) by the ring on the front of the barrel. The guy who built it for me is/was on GunBroker, he typically makes/made smaller Cohornne style beer can mortars. I miss it, so Ive been thinking about something multi barreled and shorter or perhaps a handmorter>
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Besides my assortment of black powder rifles...

454 Casull Ruger Super Redhawk DA pistol, and my 'safe queen' custom made FN Mauser in 338 Win Mag with a Douglas barrel.
 
How about some particulars?

Caliber?

1.5" bore. The shells are 1.450", giving lots of freebore. Note that they are 'waisted' so they only make contact with the bore front and rear. Front ogive is 45degrees, only because I can set x and y on my lathe to run simultaneously and give a nice 45" cut.

Length?

About 2" long. But not critical. Enough to stabilize in flight. And short enough to get lots of slugs out of each bar.

Weight?

I'd have to look that up. Not much, actually. 4 ounces perhaps? I take notes so I don't have to remember that kind of stuff! ;-)

Type and weight of charge?

Charge I have to look up. But I think it's 3 ozs of FG cannon powder, fired with friction primer. Again, I have to look up.

If your bore is for a golf ball, that's for a 1.680" projectile. They should have put in .050" freebore at least. So I would guess your bore is about 1.730" or there abouts? So you should be able to buy 1.75" bar stock drops on eBay and use your lathe to turn up perfect light little slugs.



Cheers,

Sirhr
 
Caliber?

1.5" bore. The shells are 1.450", giving lots of freebore. Note that they are 'waisted' so they only make contact with the bore front and rear. Front ogive is 45degrees, only because I can set x and y on my lathe to run simultaneously and give a nice 45" cut.

Length?

About 2" long. But not critical. Enough to stabilize in flight. And short enough to get lots of slugs out of each bar.

Weight?

I'd have to look that up. Not much, actually. 4 ounces perhaps? I take notes so I don't have to remember that kind of stuff! ;-)

Type and weight of charge?

Charge I have to look up. But I think it's 3 ozs of FG cannon powder, fired with friction primer. Again, I have to look up.

If your bore is for a golf ball, that's for a 1.680" projectile. They should have put in .050" freebore at least. So I would guess your bore is about 1.730" or there abouts? So you should be able to buy 1.75" bar stock drops on eBay and use your lathe to turn up perfect light little slugs.



Cheers,

Sirhr


Now those are some "particulars"! Thanks a bunch.

"I take notes so I don't have to remember that kind of stuff." Go ahead, ask the folks that know me. I say those exact words all of the time.

I drew the plans for my cannon. I just found them on the computer and had to grin. I wrote a comment concerning the barrel before I gave the plans to my machinist. The comment printed in the middle of the barrel? "Drill to 1.5" - Bore to 1.72" - Polish to 1.723"

Thanks for the response.
 
That is priceless @ArmyJerry.

Like @THEIS calling someone “good” at finding stuff on the internet or Shankster a fan of full-figured ladies.

Of course I agree with you a good bit of the time, so what am I saying?..... ?
 
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Someone had posted about being interested in a scale cannon... and I can't find the post. It was either here or in Vintage or in the Metalworking thread... And I was trying to find an auction for a very cool scale cannon at a great price that keeps popping up. But it had disappeared and I could not find it.

Well, it popped up again.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Civil-War-...rass-18-barrel-14-1-2-dia-wheels/312232399305

This is a beautifull-made little miniature and is not a bad price... though I would put in an offer of 1800 and settle for... a bit more.

With the limber, etc, this is an amazing piece that would be a blast (pardon the pun?) to shoot. While not taking a ton of space and not costing a lot.

I'd repaint in olive, if it were me. But this is an amazing little miniature for very short $$.

Someone buy it, so I don't!

Cheers,

Sirhr
 
Hmmmm its listed twice. Two DIFFERENT listings. Two DIFFERENT prices. Two DIFFERENT shipping prices (and neither are anywhere close to what shipping would actually cost). BUT the same picture for both listings. And almost no info that might be helpful, like bore size.
 
Hmmmm its listed twice. Two DIFFERENT listings. Two DIFFERENT prices. Two DIFFERENT shipping prices (and neither are anywhere close to what shipping would actually cost). BUT the same picture for both listings. And almost no info that might be helpful, like bore size.
Definitely one to talk to the seller about... but it had potential. Sirhr
 
Don't get bit by the belted or tactical big bore bug, trust me.

HTI w/Elite Iron can and brake (not shown) indexed TDC w/o shims. USO 5-25x in Badger rings, PVS30, LRA bipod and Insight PEQ. The first time I fired this I forgot to put on the ear pro and almost finished off my hearing; can wasn't on it, brake was. The tinnitus is still worse than it used to be. The second time I got fucking scope bit. 12ga. recoil my ass, this is NOT a Barrett and I understand now why people load such anemic loads for these. I moved the scope up a notch for better use in the prone and I won't be forgetting the ear pro again, can or not. Go ahead, laugh, it's why I mention it. It was pretty comical.
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Belting a 200rd box of API. Nasty Pelosi has nightmares about these high capacity magazines.
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New, not rebuilt or remanufactured M2HB semi, Surefire Hellfighter, Mk93mod2 cradle, Mk123 aluminum tripod, UPA w/T&E (UPA and 200rd fixtures not shown). Acog 6x and KAC 3 rail mount. The IZLID 200p belongs to a buddy. Needs a modified mount for adapting to night vision/thermal and a flash suppressor would be nice for that too. May put an EoTech on top of the Acog one day, it's the only sub$3000 reflex sight for one of these and would be handy. They say AR's are like lego rifles... So is the M2. If I had the tools, I'd be building and selling these. REALLY wish I'd hoarded a few kits back in the 90's when you could get these for $1000 minus the side plate, but i was young and dealing with cost and fallout of the 94 ban. Price on these just keeps going up and up and...
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Even semi auto M2's are badass though. M2 fires so slow you can damn near fire bursts that fast in semi. All it is is just a big ass blowback handgun on a mount. Browning's ingenuity is obvious and it's about as simple as these type of weapons ever got --there's no wonder it's still in use today. I'd still like to design and build a grip assy. that uses rotors on the thumb levers to fire a five round burst per, but ATF actually gives a shit what you do to these so a letter would be ideal.

If bullets weren't so damn expensive I think a conversion to .416Barrett would be cool.

Are you limiting this question to shoulder fired stuff or can it be mounted? I have one that is tripod mounted but has a shoulder stock in 24mm with a bore of .973". Land diameter is about .943". It was used as an anti-tank rifle in WWII. Its in the first pic.

The other is just 20mm or .787" land and .815" groove. Its shoulder fired and was also an anti-tank rifle. We've run it at some machinegun shoots out west and hit steel out to 1000yds and larger targets out to about 1850 yds. Its a Solothurn S18-1000 built in 1941 and its great fun to shoot. About 625gr of powder for a 1500 gr slug at around 2900-3000 fps. 3rd and 4th pics
The ammo pic shows an original armor piercing 20 X 138B round, projectile weight 2300gr, A new loaded round using a 1530gr 20mm vulcan training/practice projectile, a 50 BMG AP round and an 8mm Mauser rifle cartridge.

Frank

Have you seen the videos on Amazon Prime about these? Search for "Ian McCollum" and all his stuff should come up. He has one where he looks at these AT rifles. I think you'd really like it. He has one with the M2 on it and I can't remember which one. But he has HOURS of these films on Amazon on all sorts of shit, just have to look.
 
Not a big fan of ian mccollum/forgotten weapons but you can also find his videos on youtube. When you have some of the weapons he does videos on you realize he doesn't really know all that much about what he is showing on the site.

Frank
 
I gotcha. It's still neat to see inside an old MG that used rack and pinion actions or hydraulic variable rate of fire from one round every couple minutes to one every millisecond. I don't have any old stuff really so I couldn't say one way or another on some of the details.

Still worth checking out if you haven't if for nothing else than to see some of that stuff "up close" without going anywhere. Also never been in a museum that'll let me tear down their stuff, so that alone makes it worth it.

Some of the videos are horrible. Just BAD. Like the one where they "test" armor and helmets. Or have these shoot-offs. But the clandesting spy ones are really good IMO.
 
I was tempted to troll and say I went 6.5 Creedmoor instead of 6 Creedmoor but I have bigger stuff although small comparatively.
 
Thought you sold that HTI because of its mule like tendencies

I tried but I guess I've got too much in it given the can and brake and that prices have gone down on 'em I guess. At one point they'd gone up, so I guess I missed the mark. Couldn't come to any deals. Ain't gonna give it away and it is a nice rifle. I'll sure as shit be more careful though and probably won't use it very much.

The M2 is more fun anyway.
 
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I also was and still looking into a sharps except i want the 45 110 so until i can reload my own ammo i have to wait to get one . its sad sort of having no ability to buy the ammo i am thinking that's life . Dam that Quigley movie and all those cool old westerns i watched as a kid and the rifle man and his tricked out rifle that hooked me in so easily . wont even start in on john wayne and clint cause there is no point i just love the guns portrayed in there movies and want them all .

Buy one and a .22LR liner from Buffalo Arms. Last photo is a stock pic of the liner. My father was alwas talking about the 45-70..... I know that is why I am drawn to them. The double set triggers are great.
 

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I tried but I guess I've got too much in it given the can and brake and that prices have gone down on 'em I guess. At one point they'd gone up, so I guess I missed the mark. Couldn't come to any deals. Ain't gonna give it away and it is a nice rifle. I'll sure as shit be more careful though and probably won't use it very much.

The M2 is more fun anyway.


M2's are way more fun when you can just drive them to the range... rather than having to move gun, tripod, ammo... damn things are heavy!!!!


mutt mounted 2.jpg


Oh, yeah. Cuts down on tailgaters.

Cheers,

Sirhr
 
M2's are way more fun when you can just drive them to the range... rather than having to move gun, tripod, ammo... damn things are heavy!!!!


View attachment 7063139

Oh, yeah. Cuts down on tailgaters.

Cheers,

Sirhr

My Big Bore is a Pedersoli 45-70. At 1.50$ a shot it pays to get the .22lr. liner. My niece can shoot it with me too.
The 45-70 even has embellishment on the screw heads.
This is my BB gun. The lower tube is filled to 3000 psi. .177 cal .
Is your truck a Willies or a Jeep?
 

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My Big Bore is a Pedersoli 45-70. At 1.50$ a shot it pays to get the .22lr. liner. My niece can shoot it with me too.
The 45-70 even has embellishment on the screw heads.
This is my BB gun. The lower tube is filled to 3000 psi. .177 cal .
Is your truck a Willies or a Jeep?
It is neither... a Ford M151 mutt. Jeep replacement from the 1960s. Set up as it would have been c. Grenada. Right before the Hummers came along and replaced it.

They are still a bargain... Mutt cost less than the M2... in fact less than a good tripod! Though I had to build all the mount find pintle, fit radios, etc. it is wicked fun to drive!

Cheers, Sirhr
 
Win 94AE .44 Mag Trapper Carbine. Dot Scope. Big effects in a small package.

I prefer to keep this sort of performance up close and personal, where reliable delivery can be confidently controlled.

Greg
 
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It is neither... a Ford M151 mutt. Jeep replacement from the 1960s. Set up as it would have been c. Grenada. Right before the Hummers came along and replaced it.

They are still a bargain... Mutt cost less than the M2... in fact less than a good tripod! Though I had to build all the mount find pintle, fit radios, etc. it is wicked fun to drive!

Cheers, Sirhr

My MB is not set-up with a weapons system.

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. . . but I do put my "recoilless rifle" on my Mule.

7063593
 
Wilson Combat is having a sale and I snagged a 50% off 16" .338 Federal barrel for $137.48.

I also ordered a set of RCBS small base dies for less than $50.

With some extra parts I have around, it's going to be a really cheap entry in to a big bore large frame AR upper.

It doesn't have wheels but I thought I would share.
 
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From this -

View attachment 7063836


To this (some assembly & five days required) -

View attachment 7063837
Wheel making is an insane talent to have!!! Beautifully done. I am restoring four Victorian English wheels now and just restoring them is difficult. Making from scratch... incredibly jealous of your skills there. Also, beautiful wood shop! Absolutely amazing! Thanks for posting!

Cheers,

Sirhr
 
It's a lot easier now than it used to be.

I would probably join the rim sections with biscuits and use a router to make everything round. But it would give me an excuse to buy a spoke shave.

Back in the day it was probably completely different joinery and made round with a chisel on some type of primitive wood lathe (not that modern wood lathes are all that modern beside electric power). Then hammer weld the tire and heat it up so it shrinks on to the rim.

They did that for thousands of years before they figured out the machinery to change a tire on a locomotive...
 
My fun big bore is this 50-70. Some old parts some new. 1 standing & 4 folding rear sights filed to 50 yards steps to 300 yards with a 500ish @ 1100 do be fun!
Purist be damned!
 

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I had a 50 Beowulf AR pistol that was a blast to shoot. I've since SBR'd the thing.

Then I have a Safety Harbor SHTF 50 bmg with mags.

Sorry, but I don't post pcitures of my firearms.
 
It's a lot easier now than it used to be.

I would probably join the rim sections with biscuits and use a router to make everything round. But it would give me an excuse to buy a spoke shave.

Back in the day it was probably completely different joinery and made round with a chisel on some type of primitive wood lathe (not that modern wood lathes are all that modern beside electric power). Then hammer weld the tire and heat it up so it shrinks on to the rim.

They did that for thousands of years before they figured out the machinery to change a tire on a locomotive...

Yep, something like that. ;)

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(NOT my shop. This is the blacksmith's shop.)

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No joinery at all on the felloes (wheel parts). It is just held together by the "shrunk fit" tire and one bolt (7 total) per felloe through the tire. The entire wheel weighs 30 pounds. When removed, you can bounce them like a basketball. Well . . . . as easy as you could bounce a 30 pound basketball.