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XLR Chassis Stock

Quick question guys. To remove the buffer tube on the chassis, do I need to unscrew the allen screws behind the pistol grip? I just got my castle nut wrench in, but the castle nut gets tight when I turn it left or right, but it's loose in between.
 
Quick question guys. To remove the buffer tube on the chassis, do I need to unscrew the allen screws behind the pistol grip? I just got my castle nut wrench in, but the castle nut gets tight when I turn it left or right, but it's loose in between.

Yes, to remove the butt stock you will need to remove the set screw located just behind the grip on the bottom side of the action block.

Thanks, Kyle ~ XLR
 
I bought a stock from Kyle a couple of years ago for my left-handed Remington model 40XB KS and am still very happy with my stock choice. I have shot a couple of F-class matches with it and it works fine. It qualifies as a "tactical rifle" using a bag and bi-pod.

The gun has over 2K rounds thru it with no problems other than a little throat wear.
 
Where were you able to purchase this handle? I would like to get one myself. Looks Awesome. Thanks, Dave
 
There have been several questions on our chassis relating to 30"+ barrels and F-class rigs so I figured I would post pictures of my F-class rifle.

Specs:
XLR Extreme Evolution HD chassis
BAT "M" receiver
Benchmark 31" barrel 1.3" breach tapered to 1.1@31"
.284 WIN
Nightforce 15-55x52 Competition





 
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Is that the 14 or 16"fore end? Looks badass! Mines going to look even longer on a long action with a 30"barrel and 3" long fat bastard brake!
 
Man...I've been sifting this thread for a while.

Too many nice rifles.... loving the pictures and seriously whetting the appetite!

A few questions for Kyle.

What is the lead time if I ordered an evolution chassis
What size magazine do I need for 22-250
How much for a Khaki colour?

Cheers
 
Here's an old M700 243 with a Magpul. Has anyone added a toe height adjustment to the PRS.
With a big banger I'm wonder if I'd need to shave the stock-to-grip transition??

rem700-xlr-magpul-1.jpg
 
A question for the Savage users.

There appears to be a common fault with the feeding of the Short Action rounds in some of the Model 10 Detachable Mag fed rifles.
Has anyone solved this problem by using an XLR Chassis?

Cheers

Slimy
 
Hmmm. I've owned about a half dozen model 10 and 110 rifles. All factory detachable box mags - not a single feeding issue, ever. The XLR can't fix a problem that don't exist.
 
Thanks for your reply but as I said I was after someone who has experienced the problem and has installed the chassis and noticed a difference.
Evidently it is common with hollow nose rounds due to the feeding being slightly too high.
Yes, I could use different projectiles but I would like to have the choice of using them and them not jamming.
 
Give me an example of what you mean by hollow nose projectile, because the majority of popular bullets for precision rifle shooting are "hollow nose" bullets (called hollow point) and are all i ever used until i switched to amax bullets for my Remington 260.
I belong to the savage forum and have not noticed a trend that suggests that your issue is a common one.
If you are having the problem it could be the feed ramp of your receiver needs polishing, in which case the XLR will not help you.
The only other things that could cause your feeding problem would be improper inletting of your stock for your bottom metal, or a malfunctioning/improperly assembled magazine. If either are the case, then yes the XLR will fix it, but so would any aftermarket bottom metal, or new magazine/repaired inletting.
 
Oooooooh man that chassis ...and all those rifles are sweet! Man that's sick, and what I'm dying to get my T3 .308 CTR into....! Nice.....gotta save!!! Have fun...
 
Give me an example of what you mean by hollow nose projectile, because the majority of popular bullets for precision rifle shooting are "hollow nose" bullets (called hollow point) and are all i ever used until i switched to amax bullets for my Remington 260.
I belong to the savage forum and have not noticed a trend that suggests that your issue is a common one.
If you are having the problem it could be the feed ramp of your receiver needs polishing, in which case the XLR will not help you.
The only other things that could cause your feeding problem would be improper inletting of your stock for your bottom metal, or a malfunctioning/improperly assembled magazine. If either are the case, then yes the XLR will fix it, but so would any aftermarket bottom metal, or new magazine/repaired inletting.

Ok so when I use say, .223 American Eagle hollow Points it will only feed %10 of the time.
Working the Bolt catches the Round but feeds it low (I was wrong when I said high) so it look as if it could be a spring issue? I have gently tweaked the Mag "Lips" to allow them to feed easier and this did help a bit so I was hoping a new mag and chassis combo would be better.
Having said that, I have ordered the 22-250 and I'm selling the .223 (that was very accurate) ... If I was to encounter the problem again then hoping the new Mag and Chassis would solve it.
Thanks for your patience, Down here in NZ we don't have access to all the "Bits and pieces" so readily available in the USA so when we have an issue it costs a heap more to fix!
I am building a Varmint set up and the XLR looks the perfect option for the 22-250.
 
Ok so when I use say, .223 American Eagle hollow Points it will only feed %10 of the time.
Working the Bolt catches the Round but feeds it low (I was wrong when I said high) so it look as if it could be a spring issue? I have gently tweaked the Mag "Lips" to allow them to feed easier and this did help a bit so I was hoping a new mag and chassis combo would be better.
Having said that, I have ordered the 22-250 and I'm selling the .223 (that was very accurate) ... If I was to encounter the problem again then hoping the new Mag and Chassis would solve it.
Thanks for your patience, Down here in NZ we don't have access to all the "Bits and pieces" so readily available in the USA so when we have an issue it costs a heap more to fix!
I am building a Varmint set up and the XLR looks the perfect option for the 22-250.

I got to thinking last night that you might be talking about a .223. Savage basically just modified their 308 family of rifles and magazines to accommodate the 223. Its a little hokey, but polishing the feed ramp does help.
 
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Got my chassis yesterday and kudos to Kyle. Excellent fit. Will post pics once I get my SWFA scope mounted that I ordered today. Shees! this sport hurts my wallet! But what the Hell, it's better than shooting golf balls...oh, wait I do shoot golf balls at a hundred yards, maybe now 2-3 hundred with my new rig!
 
Just ordered mine from Kyle yesterday. 8 week wait but I know it will be worth it. The rigs posted in this thread are awesome.
 
Heres my newest edition to the family...

-Phoenix Machine/Defiance Long Action
-Bolt and knob fluted/coated by Kampfeld Customs
-Rock Creek 5R 1/9.4 barrel finished at 24.5" with SSG V Port Brake
-Jewel Trigger (1 lb)
-Nightforce 20 MoA base
-AD Recon mount
-Nightforce NXS 8-32x56 (NPR-1)
--Chambering work all done by Phoenix Custom Rifles


P5030257.jpg

P5030258.jpg

P5030261.jpg

Mate! That mount is exactly what I am after!!

Which of the Recon models is it?
 
hey Kyle
Have you ever considered installing a barrier stop in front of the magazine well on your design? Or selling this as an option?
 
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We are excited to announce that we are now have 1 piece aluminum 20 MOA scope bases for Remington 700 SA and 700 LA. Cost is $60. These are made to fit our chassis so you do not have to shorten your scope base. Base is standard 1913. Height on our base is .350" when figuring ring height. We have these in stock and ready to ship!

 
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Future Owner FYI

I have the Carbon Chassis on a Remington 700 SA and am very please with it. However, I did have to file about 1/2mm from one of the action screws that was binding on the bolt when properly torqued. For those of you considering this chassis with a 56mm NightForce scope and 20MOA NightForce rail..... I used the 1.375" X-HIGH Ultra-Light NightForce Rings and the clearance is so tight the bikini lense cover will not fit. Just FYI

<a href="http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/DOATexas/media/IMG_0700.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u463/DOATexas/IMG_0700.png" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0700.png"/></a>

<a href="http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/DOATexas/media/IMG_0703.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u463/DOATexas/IMG_0703.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0703.jpg"/></a>
 
I have the Carbon Chassis on a Remington 700 SA and am very please with it. However, I did have to file about 1/2mm from one of the action screws that was binding on the bolt when properly torqued. For those of you considering this chassis with a 56mm NightForce scope and 20MOA NightForce rail..... I used the 1.375" X-HIGH Ultra-Light NightForce Rings and the clearance is so tight the bikini lense cover will not fit. Just FYI

<a href="http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/DOATexas/media/IMG_0700.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u463/DOATexas/IMG_0700.png" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0700.png"/></a>

<a href="http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/DOATexas/media/IMG_0703.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u463/DOATexas/IMG_0703.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0703.jpg"/></a>

Eek. I did the math according to Kyles website and ordered the badger 1.275 rings. They were supposed to yield at least .09 gap.
The design of this stock is such that you want to run the lowest rings possible. I was going to order the rings you ordered but feared they'd be too high. Hmmm.
But mine is on a TAC338 action that's .050 larger in diameter and my rail might be taller
 
Figured It was time to post up a pic of my setup. Got this put together back in April, nothing fancy, just a basic setup. IOR scope, Harris bipod, ken farrell steel base, and a Savage 10fcp-k barreled action. After a little load development, she shoots pretty well. Third shot was all me, but still not too shabby for an all stock gun + a chassis. Groups is about .750" with the flyer @ 200 yards.



 
Eek. I did the math according to Kyles website and ordered the badger 1.275 rings. They were supposed to yield at least .09 gap.
The design of this stock is such that you want to run the lowest rings possible. I was going to order the rings you ordered but feared they'd be too high. Hmmm.
But mine is on a TAC338 action that's .050 larger in diameter and my rail might be taller

I calculated using Kyle's formula as well and originally purchased 1.275" rings for my set up. But.... I didn't take into account the extra length the sunshade was going to add. The downward cant of the 20MOA rail resulted in the sunshade contacting the forearm. Since I had already cut the rail to length and like the benefits of the sunshade, the only option was to get higher rings. I was a bit worried about the extra height, but found my setup to be very comfortable and the cheek rest is still adjusted near the center of its adjustment range. Best of luck to you and your setup.
 
anschutz64ms

Is that the Cyclone or Cyclone K can? Have you fed it any subs yet? I have the Cyclone model and found the Corbon 185gr. subs to group very well at 100 yards with consistent velocities.
 
I calculated using Kyle's formula as well and originally purchased 1.275" rings for my set up. But.... I didn't take into account the extra length the sunshade was going to add. The downward cant of the 20MOA rail resulted in the sunshade contacting the forearm. Since I had already cut the rail to length and like the benefits of the sunshade, the only option was to get higher rings. I was a bit worried about the extra height, but found my setup to be very comfortable and the cheek rest is still adjusted near the center of its adjustment range. Best of luck to you and your setup.

Well i assumed about 60mm actual objective diameter and i was way, way off. I didn't have the ATACR at the time. Now that i do and measured it its about 65mm! Anyone wanna buy some badger 1.275 34mm rings? :(
 
anschutz64ms


Is that the Cyclone or Cyclone K can? Have you fed it any subs yet? I have the Cyclone model and found the Corbon 185gr. subs to group very well at 100 yards with consistent velocities.

It's the cyclone. The subs I run are 180 Hornady rn bullets with trail boss powder at 1030 fps I consistently get .75-1 Moa @100yds
 
bodywerks:

Hate to hear that. If you don't buy another set of the Badger's, I am very impressed with the quality of the NightForce Ultra-Light rings.
 
It's the cyclone. The subs I run are 180 Hornady rn bullets with trail boss powder at 1030 fps I consistently get .75-1 Moa @100yds

I haven't started my reloading adventure yet. I have all the equipment and not a bit of time to use it. I have a box of both the 180gr and 220gr Hornady RN bullets waiting on me. If you don't mind me asking....

1. How many grains are you using of the Trail Boss?

2. What length barrel do you have?

3. Twist rate?

4. Did you open up the flash holes?

Thanks
 
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I haven't started my reloading adventure yet. I have all the equipment and not a bit of time to use it. I have a box of both the 180gr and 220gr Hornady RN bullets waiting on me. If you don't mind me asking....

1. How many grains are you using of the Trail Boss?

2. What length barrel do you have?

3. Twist rate?

4. Did you open up the flash holes?

Thanks
21" barrel
10.5 grns of trailboss
1-12 twist
Don't have drill out flash holes with trail boss. 10.5 grns fills the case about half way.
 
Figured It was time to post up a pic of my setup. Got this put together back in April, nothing fancy, just a basic setup. IOR scope, Harris bipod, ken farrell steel base, and a Savage 10fcp-k barreled action. After a little load development, she shoots pretty well. Third shot was all me, but still not too shabby for an all stock gun + a chassis. Groups is about .750" with the flyer @ 200 yards.




What brand and height rings are you using?
 
What folding mechanism is this? Is this the new proprietary mechanism from xlr?

No, it's not a folder. It's a machined piece of aluminum that covers the castle nut so my hand doesn't get scratched and cut anymore.