Filter

Right or left ?

You need to use heat tempilaq to figure that out correctly.
Yes, this can help relieve any concern about heat traveling down the body by putting a line of this from the neck to the web. But, 400°C/750°F still isn't going to do much of anything to the body unless it's at that temperature for something like 30 seconds. :eek: I doubt the body ever gets to that temperature for much more than a second when a neck glows (say, 1200°F) for but a second or a fraction of a second. :rolleyes:

Griffen taper mount muzzle devices

Hey guys nearing completion on my AR-10 DMRish build. For fun, for LR, for end of the world zombie scenarios, etc.

I have a Griffin suppressor so I'd be looking at a Griffin taper mount muzzle device.

My instinct wants to put their three-prong flash hider on it because it looks so damn cool, My gut says to put their paladin dual Port muzzle brake on it because it would probably help me spot my own shots the best and the suppressor could handle taming the flash, and my brain says I should probably get the best of both worlds and put on their ugly flash comp.

Of course they have a bunch of others as well. What would you guys recommend for being the best muzzle device for this build?

Staying in the scope and spotting my own shots would be a huge priority, as little muzzle flash as possible would be a secondary.

Thanks guys
I use a Paladin 2 port on my 300wm, a single port on my ar10, and the short and long flash hiders on various 5.56. Wife's rig has the flashcomp (hammer-comp with tips). That one is neat, but its long AF inside the can. Almost .25 longer inside IIRC.

Good system though, I've been really happy

Accessories Surefire M951 and 6P

Up for grabs are two of my Surefire lights. These would be ideal for the GWOT clone crowd.

Up first is a Surefire M951 Fat Body with the SW01 Slim tail cap. It works and is in used/issued condition. Surefire 6P from the same era in used/issued condition as well. Includes pic mount. I prefer to sell them together to one buyer. $380 shipped for the pair. PayPal friends and family or USPS money order.

Attachments

  • IMG_0511.jpeg
    IMG_0511.jpeg
    2.4 MB · Views: 13
  • IMG_0512.jpeg
    IMG_0512.jpeg
    2.3 MB · Views: 12
  • IMG_0513.jpeg
    IMG_0513.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 12
  • IMG_0514.jpeg
    IMG_0514.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 10
  • IMG_0518.jpeg
    IMG_0518.jpeg
    2.7 MB · Views: 12
  • IMG_0516.jpeg
    IMG_0516.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 12
  • IMG_0517.jpeg
    IMG_0517.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 10
  • IMG_0519.jpeg
    IMG_0519.jpeg
    2.5 MB · Views: 7
  • IMG_0520.jpeg
    IMG_0520.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 12
  • Like
Reactions: simonp

Right or left ?

Just making sure there is no problem with the heat transferring further down the case .
More details about your annealing process would help. . . like, how long in the flame; what part of the flame touching what part(s) of the case. . . ???

Because cases cool off so fast, quenching them really doesn't change anything and your results, in terms of changes in hardness, is no difference between the two. The quenching just adds more work to your process. . . nothing more. You have to get the neck and shoulder really hot for quite a long time (relatively speaking) to have any problem with the case body getting too soft. Like I'm at 9-10 seconds in the flame where the neck glows red (in a darkened room) for a hair over second and it gives me the hardness, as I measure with my tool, that's equal to my virgin Lapua brass. Here's some .308 cases that I necked up and sized from Sig .277 Fury hybrid cases, which I just fired a couple days ago getting a nice 4.7 SD and ES of 15 from these 10 cartridges (keep in mind that the color you see is not a good indicator as to how much grain structure of the brass is being changed):

1747085741031.jpeg
  • Like
Reactions: Doghed and trlrman

How do you note your rifles current zero setting when storing a rifle?

...you only do this until you find yourself a rev off the next stage/day/month and cant hit shit...then you never do it again lol.


is it an ND if you are a rev off and torch one over the berm/target/county???
I would argue yes.
If I remember correctly, torching one over the berm is a match DQ at Texas Precision Matches events. But, it’s been a few years…
  • Like
Reactions: D_TROS

Hearing protection active muffs in 2025

Yes, but I haven't used them yet at the range. Put the batteries in to make sure they worked, walked around the house, removed the batteries and put everything back in the box. The ear cup portion might be a little small or I might have bigger than normal ears. Have to wiggle the cups around to make sure the entire ear is inside the cup portion, if that makes any sense
  • Like
Reactions: mike_f

Ukraine war Bullshit.

Considering pre war population density
1000002716.png

Against what the russias troops occupied pre 2022, and what they occupy now
1000002717.jpg

And what the ground looks like which they plant their pride flag on the UXO littered remains (pictured is vovchansk after glorious and masculine liberating puccia army victory)
1000002718.jpg

yeah... the russia is as pathetic as the contrarian retards who call tanking your countries power projection in exchange for densely mined uninhabitable rubble are equally delusional and retarded. Not one step back cumrades, 2 weeks to kiev, UUURRAAAAAA!!
  • Wow
Reactions: LRRPF52

Ridgeline Defense RD-15 LPR

I wasn't able to use any mlok attachments on the handguard because it was too tight. Even trimming the length of the screws. The only thing I wanted to use was a short pic rail for a brass catcher but it's even tighter closer to the receiver due to the barrel contour. Other than maybe a gun light (for your SPR 🤔), I don't know what a person would need to attach via MLOK.
Around the gas-block is very tight, I would be very cautious trying to mount any though those slots. Everywhere else is functional. Again we just need to be aware of actual screw lengths. I’ve come across 3 or 4 different length MLOK screws, they’re far from universal.