theLBC said:

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Make tar & feathering great again.

Neeves SPF

If you're head shooting singles, it's fine. If you are shooting multiples, care about clean kills and want to recover the hogs Id shoot something bigger. They are tough critters. Ive shot and killed them with 22LR up to 308 and I pretty much just shoot them with grendels now.

I had something similar happen earlier this year. Made a trade for 2 pistols. The member shipped the guns to me through his FFL insured.

Guns made it part of the way to me to a distribution center and then stopped. After a few days of no movement I spoke to the post master on my end and the sellers FFL did the same in their end. Started a claim with the post office and after about a few week we filed for the insurance which started an investigation of some sorts and eventually the guns where found, supposedly with damaged labels or something and where diverted to post office lost and found center.

Whole process took almost 3 months but everything arrived safely in the end.

Very important to have crystal clear communication between you and buyer during this. Setup weekly updates or what ever works for you guys so the buyer doesn’t feel like you’re ghosting them. Crappy situation but stuff happens. And if you have insurance on the gun, file that as soon as possible.

TTT

Friday bump

TTT

stello1001 said:

So I'm fairly new to reloading. Less than 2 years. I don't recall what I had read and researched back then. However, something had led me to believe that bushing dies "might" impose some potential issues, maybe donuts. I don't recall.

Another theory, a bushing will make the OD uniform, thus leaving any inconsistencies on the neck thickness to be transferred to the ID. This is what's in direct contact with your bullet so I would prefer the ID inconsistencies be ironed out and pushed out to the OD.

Even though I'm not very experienced, my results have been pretty good. I have also not proved or disproved the things I read online. I think even if you use a bushing die, considering your process is good and components are good, you should be able to get adequate results.

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That’s all BS about bushing dies. I have been using bushing dies in multiple calibers for over 20 years and load very accurate ammo. Look around the internet and you will find someone saying the way you do it is wrong also. The internet is like that. You have to find what works for you and use it. I use what give me excellent results and is the least amount of work. Why I stopped deburring the flash holes.

beetroot said:

I checked the weight and length of once fired brass, 10x Sako 9x Hornady 20x S&B.
The S&B brass is definitely all over the place when it comes to weight and length compared to the other two brands.
The SD/ES of the brass weights were as follows:
Sako: 0.46/1.4
Horn: 0.7/2.3
S&B: 0.9/3.1

I'm going to get a bushing die also, resizing some brass today the expander ball felt like shit on many of the case.
Much better on the Hornaday and Sako brass, but I really don't think that's helping either.

Do you rate the Hornady bushing dies, or do I just go straight for Redding/Forster?

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Hornady bushing dies work well. I use them with my 6ARC. The others work also. I still have some of both and they do the job. With any of them you setting up the shoulder bump and using the right bushing for proper neck tension will be the most important things. Also most come with an expander ball and a thin ball to just hold the depriming pin in. Use the thin ball as you don’t want to set neck tension and then drag a ball back through opening it up.

Frank Green said:

Your killing me! I could beat you with a stick right now!

The scary part is... someone somewhere will look at it that way.

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+P....

According to my search:

"AI Overview


If a gun is stolen during shipping, the shipping Federal Firearms Licensee (FFL) must report the theft to both the local police and the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF) within 48 hours of discovery
. If you are an individual and not the shipping FFL, you must contact the sending and receiving FFLs and the local police.
For the shipping FFL
The shipping FFL is legally responsible for reporting the theft and is the primary party that interacts with the ATF.

1. Report to local police. Call the local law enforcement where the theft occurred or where the business is located to file a police report.
2. Contact the ATF. Notify the ATF's Stolen Firearms Program Manager toll-free at 1-888-930-9275.
3. Complete the required form. Fill out and submit the FFL Theft/Loss Report (ATF Form 3310.11) to the ATF's National Tracing Center. You must also maintain a copy for your own records.
4. Notify the Interstate Theft Program. For firearms stolen in transit between states, the ATF's National Tracing Center (NTC) oversees a program to investigate and track stolen or missing firearms.
5. Record the theft in your records. Within 7 days of discovery, record the theft as a disposition entry in your Acquisition and Disposition (A&D) book.

For the private citizen
If you are an individual and your firearm was stolen while being shipped between two FFLs, you should take the following steps. The ATF does not accept reports directly from private citizens.

1. Contact the sending FFL. This is the dealer who shipped the firearm. They are responsible for reporting the theft to the police and the ATF. As the sender, they are legally required to initiate the report.
2. Contact the receiving FFL. The FFL to whom the firearm was being shipped should also be notified. They should document the incident and may need to file their own internal report.
3. File a police report. You should file a report with your local police department. In some states, private citizens are legally required to report a lost or stolen firearm to law enforcement.
4. Contact the carrier. Report the missing package to the shipping carrier (e.g., USPS, FedEx, UPS) and start a missing package search. Provide all relevant tracking information and details.
5. Notify your state authorities. If your state has a firearms registration office, contact them and report the firearm as stolen. "

TBK said:

Anyone know how to contact Calypso for warranty support? Last time out, I checked the barometric pressure on my phone, leica geovid and the change weather station. They were all pretty close but the Calypso AB was off. I went back and checked the reading I recorded at different dates. It turns out that it was almost the same each time even though the weather wasn't. I sent emails via the website but I am not getting any responses.

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The Calypso AB Mini does not have a pressure sensor.

Just to dig this back up, because it’s an interesting concept. I’m skeptical because if your trying to predict which loads will perform best based on optimal barrel time, then doesn’t it all go out the window the moment that the temperature increases or decreases, thus changing chamber pressure and speed? And any significant elevation or DA changes? Not to mention primer, bullet, powder lot variations. New brass vs 1x fired etc.

CanMike said:

Am I understanding it correctly?

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No, well maybe. Depends on how you arrived at your initial measurement. The bolt face to the point that the bullet touches the lands hasnt changed.
If your measurement was to the case head instead of the bolt face such as with the hornady tool, then yes, adjust accordingly.
If you do the wheeler method that pushes the bras up against the bolt face, then no, dont change.

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I don't worry too much about hogs since I don't care about meat preservation and I still try to aim for head area. Most any bullet will kill if you shoot the head. Are you trying to go for heart/lungs? Are you shooting runners? If so, I would probably like the heavier 77 for more penetration. I think the 69 will work alright but I'll favor the 77.

White Oak reasons it to mitigate gas leakage. Not sure where all the arguments about accuracy are coming from. They make no claims that it improves accuracy, just keeps the gases where they are supposed to be.