Knives Several Knives - Bark River, Micro Tech, ZT
- By shakemandril
- Buy - Sell - Trade
- 6 Replies
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Yeah that's how I've always set mine up.Hornady bushing dies work well. I use them with my 6ARC. The others work also. I still have some of both and they do the job. With any of them you setting up the shoulder bump and using the right bushing for proper neck tension will be the most important things. Also most come with an expander ball and a thin ball to just hold the depriming pin in. Use the thin ball as you don’t want to set neck tension and then drag a ball back through opening it up.
Better living through chemistry...h that was Dupont. Is there a difference?Yodels.... For whatever reason, The "Drakes Cakes" company got much more TV Ad time in my AO in the PRNJ than did the Hostess Company. Drakes was founded in NYC, and I think they had a huge bakery in Wayne, NJ. Therefore, I knew about "Ring Dings" before I'd heard about "Ding Dongs." I knew "Cup Cakes" as the first Hostess product, and then Twinkies. The others came shortly thereafter.
The preload on the joint must exceed the applied load during the load cycle in order to maintain joint stability. The way to do this is to use the calculated factorHarold Vaughn's Rifle Accuracy Facts, yes.
I was not considering anything about the number of cycles but rather the case of a fired round exerting a load on the threaded joint that exceeds the preload applied as Aaron Davidson stated occurs even with over 100 ft/lb torque on a barrel. If we agree the joint is moving when the force of a fired round exceeds that of the pre-load, would tighter fitting threads or "ramp threads" as outlined in Vaughn's book help encourage the barrel to come back to the same location after the load from the fired round is gone?
She may very well be real, but in my life I have never seen anything like that up close ...I am not usually one to jump on the AI bandwagon.....but she looks way too perfect to be real.
So I'm fairly new to reloading. Less than 2 years. I don't recall what I had read and researched back then. However, something had led me to believe that bushing dies "might" impose some potential issues, maybe donuts. I don't recall.
Another theory, a bushing will make the OD uniform, thus leaving any inconsistencies on the neck thickness to be transferred to the ID. This is what's in direct contact with your bullet so I would prefer the ID inconsistencies be ironed out and pushed out to the OD.
Even though I'm not very experienced, my results have been pretty good. I have also not proved or disproved the things I read online. I think even if you use a bushing die, considering your process is good and components are good, you should be able to get adequate results.
I checked the weight and length of once fired brass, 10x Sako 9x Hornady 20x S&B.
The S&B brass is definitely all over the place when it comes to weight and length compared to the other two brands.
The SD/ES of the brass weights were as follows:
Sako: 0.46/1.4
Horn: 0.7/2.3
S&B: 0.9/3.1
I'm going to get a bushing die also, resizing some brass today the expander ball felt like shit on many of the case.
Much better on the Hornaday and Sako brass, but I really don't think that's helping either.
Do you rate the Hornady bushing dies, or do I just go straight for Redding/Forster?
+P....Your killing me! I could beat you with a stick right now!
The scary part is... someone somewhere will look at it that way.