Where all have you tried buds in Paris Kentucky gun co. Or I know people in that area my yard is in Georgetown send me contact info I can talk to you about it

MK20 said:

Get a Beretta 1301 and cut the barrel flush with the mag tube.

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I've got the 1301 Patrol and its already pretty short. What I love is its so fast you cant out shoot it, I've tried. Really spits them out.

BravoSector1 said:

I tried black....I'll never go back

View attachment 8715889

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First step is admitting you have a kink

If the shipping lanes are kept open for China then they would be open for all I'm guessing.

So drill faster pump harder ship it everywhere? Won't that cave the price of our crude?

I like cheap gasoline but I also like our oil industry working as well.

Trade off point is ? 60$ a barrel and what for gasoline? Is there such a point in reality.

I tried black....I'll never go back

I have like 10 lbs of CFE223, and use it in my 6 ARC, but Lever gives more consistent results.

MK20 said:

I haven't tried. I might, but I think I'll just keep them. I am starting to have quite the WWII paraphernalia collection so I might try to do collage type photos as art here in the next year or so with some rifles mixed in.

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That sounds like fun. I will keep an eye out for that thread . . . and add some of the stuff in my collection.

My advice would be to 1. Steer clear of browning for precision rifles. They make good stuff but not as customizable as the other companies. 2. Get a Tikka T3x CTR with the longer barrel in 6.5 creed. Throw a DNT The One on there for around 550 on sale if you can still find them, and you'll be good. The Cronus is nice too but still around 1300 on Expert Voice. You can find Athlon Ares 4.5-30 used on here for cheap if you are persistent.

Decent factory ammo is out there as well. Try Bergers loadings; theyre usually very nice in a Tikka. Then take it out and see what you can do. If you decide it's not for you, or something in life comes up, you can always sell a tikka, and wont be knee deep in handloading equipment either.
Once you get your feet wet, then sell that and spring for a rig more appropriate for the 1760.

pm sent Surgeon 308 & GT

Mr.BR said:

Yes ,but when sanctioned Russian ,Iranian or Venezuelan crude is sold at discount and only to smaller independent chinese rafiners that specialise in sanctioned crude are buying . Sanction relief is likely worth hundrets of millions if not billions in revenue as they can sell at practically market prices instead of a discount.

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Also, increased legitimate supply will probably drive down prices, hurting the Russian economy as it is mainly oil based.

Wheels inside of wheels…….

misser said:

what am I measuring ?? is not the length of the bullet . its the ogive to the same size diameter on the boat tail

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What you are measuring is akin to the bearing surface but depending on the inserts it's probably not giving a true gauge. Small variations in the ogive radius or boat tail angle will case variations which have no bearing on the performance of the bullet. Small variations in boat tail angle or length has almost no bearing on internal ballistics. While many people profess to see the difference in jump it may not be as sensitive as some seem to see on small sample sizes. That said, consistency in jump is important. What we do know is consistency in CBTO will put the bullet in a consistent jump which does seem to be a very important parameter for precision, probably more so than consistent bearing surface (IMO).

Charmingmander,

I'm not sure what the intent of your post is.

Along with my above post, I will say that a little respect and courtesy go a long, long way in life.

If you consider that act as boot licking, you sir are the problem. We as decent human beings know the value of courtesy and respect.

I treat everyone, even you, with the respect and courtesy you deserve until you show me I'm wasting my time.

I'm guessing that you have never thanked someone for any type of help, like baggers in a grocery store.

Try it out sometime, believe it or not, most humans will return the small gesture. Even police!

spife7980 said:

To be fair, it’s for an entirely different discipline that anything the are discussing here. Iron sights were the primary sighting consideration, scopes on blocks were secondary which is why the butt to bore has such an offset.
Used to be you would hook the butt under one arm and shoot across/parallel to the body entirely under body support, now all the rage is for the shooter being square/perpendicular to the rifle and not supporting the rifle itself at all.
Aka, offhand vs prone.

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Understood.

Thank you.

I will submit there is a middle ground between the Schuetzen and the straight-line we see now that is likely worthy of exploration (or returning to).

-Stan

GAP Custom

N133 or N135 MIGHT work, keyword being MIGHT.

Sending pm

That ayatollah must use the same spin doctors as the Democrat whores.

LMAO

Whoopsie said:

I’m sure I’ll come across these answers as I start doing more detailed research, but opinions seem to very on how tight the action screws should be (if installed at all) while the epoxy is drying. Is there a definitive answer? Also the barrel is currently floating, when I remove the previous bedding will I have to focus on floating the barrel or is the stock already recessed for the floating barrel?

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I've found, that if you dont torque the action down super tight on the wet epoxy, and you have a blind magazine box, when you go to reassemble this set up, the action will now be quite a bit higher in the action, and now, your magazine box when fitted into the receiver, will have a few millimeters of free space at the bottom to allow it to drop out of the receiver. Now, the loaded rounds wont index correctly and it becomes a shitshow. Had this happen on three different rifles. All the same exact problem. Had it happen to 2 Rem 700's and a Howa 1500.
Before bedding they all fed like a tikka. After bedding, they would smash bullet tips into the bottom of the feed ramp at EVERY range outing. Took quite a while to figure out, but it was the little indentations or creases in the sides of the magazine box that indexed the shoulders of the rounds ever so slightly to the 10 o clock for the right round and 2 o clock for the left round, helping the bullet tips avoid that flat at the bottom of the feed ramps. Contrary to what people say, the mag boxes are not supposed to float in there.

Another way to look at it. Take your action out of the stock, then grab your bottom metal and bolt it to the action with no stock. Just snug up the bolts very slightly. THATS how your entire assembly is supposed to fit IN the stock. That's how every part in there was designed to function from the factory. If it's not that way mounted IN the stock, shits going to not function right 100% now, until it gets back to where it was originally.

Get a Beretta 1301 and cut the barrel flush with the mag tube.

I haven't tried. I might, but I think I'll just keep them. I am starting to have quite the WWII paraphernalia collection so I might try to do collage type photos as art here in the next year or so with some rifles mixed in.

I don't really know anything about shotguns but if I were going to have a semi-auto SBS, I think I'd want something that fed from a box magazine as opposed to a tube... That I assume is also going to be short AF now. No idea if someone makes a decent one of those or not.