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Carbon ring removal

Clownbuster
carbonbased said:
Just want to say thanks to @Frank Green for the carbon ring removal and bore cleaning techniques. I didn’t know anything about carbon rings before joining this site, and had what felt like hundreds of bore cleaners lol.

Before, this R700 204 gun would throw some flyers and mess up a good group.

This 10rd group at 100yds is after using Frank’s blue JB paste cleaning method. Had to modify it a little for the little 20cal bore. Bug me for details if you want. Also bought a cheap borescope to verify the ring was gone.

Shot about 30 rounds after that cleaning, cleaned with Hoppes #9 as per Frank, and the below group includes the cold bore shot. This is with the semi-shitty factory Hornady Superperformance 40gr 204 ammo, with 130fps ES and 38 SD.

View attachment 8711809
View attachment 8711806

The pdogs, they will be crying extra hard this summer. Thanks Frank!
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Hey boss, I guess I missed the cleaning protocol. Care to list your detailed steps to get it corrected?
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KAK products

Gtscotty
Gtscotty said:
I have a couple of their 12.5" mid gas barrels, one in 5.56 and one in 6mm ARC. Haven't worked up loads in either yet but the 5.56 is good for ~1.5" with 75gr AAC Saber black tip, plenty good for something that wears a 3x prism and is intending for around the property. I will be working up loads for the ARC after deer season, but a brief session with 108gr factory looked good, and it dropped a few deer well. Not bad for $70 for the 5.56 barrel and $140 for the ARC.

I do want to try one of their downward venting bcgs, as they seem to get pretty rave reviews for suppressed use.
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I couldn't ever get my 12.5" 6 ARC to do better than 2"-2.5", which was a waste to me for that chambering. To their credit even though KAK said that was within spec for them, they did refund my money. I wound up doing what I should have to start with and ordered another X-Caliber, 13", 7 twist mlgs, hopefully they'll be finishing and shipping that soon.
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Canadian Ranger rifles in the Arctic need replacements, don’t work in the cold

david walter
I doubt if it is a lubrication problem.

Cold rifles brought into warm areas form condensation on all surfaces, and when they go back out the condensation freezes if they were not wiped down properly. Even a cold wood stock got wet, and I wonder if that's what happened to these rifles. Moisture everywhere, expanding and contracting.

When I lived in Two Rivers (Fairbanks), we had a humidifier running constantly. The first winter we didn't have one, and wood furniture inside got so dry the wood split. I remember one night we thought we heard a rifle shot in the house, and when we investigated, the leg on grandma's 1923 dresser had split longwise. When I told the story at work, all the sourdoughs said to get a humidifier. Been up in the way north a few times, never saw natives with humidifiers. They might have been there, but I never saw any.

When we went hunting, we kept a rifle in the RV or tent for bear defense. But the rifles we were hunting with stayed outside for the most part, or were wiped down and light oil on surfaces every night before bed. Bolts and any springs got graphite, but if any moisture got in there, the graphite became a gray sludge.

Rifles going from cold to hot and back a lot are prone to problems.

Ever ask yourself why the Rangers are using peep sights vs. scopes? Peeps don't freeze.

In Fairbanks, the temps ranged from a high (when I lived there) of 92* F to a low of -62* F. That's hard on equipment.
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Maggie’s Motivational Pic Thread v2.0 - - New Rules - See Post #1

A
Heretic said:
umlauts are not used in Spanish. "A" for effort.
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From AI:

Spanish uses the two dots (¨) over the letter "u" are called a diéresis (diaeresis). While they look like an umlaut, which is used in other languages like German to modify vowel sounds, the diéresis in Spanish serves a different purpose. It indicates that the "u" should be pronounced, even when it appears in the "gue" or "gui" combinations where the "u" is typically silent.
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Powder IN-STOCK thread

stello1001
mtrmn said:
Good luck with that...:(
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I have enough benchmark and a bit of Tac for the amount of shooting I do with my grendels to get me by. Although I do wish to try h4895, I'm not desperate enough to pay ridiculous amounts lol.

AR should eventually have something like h4895, xbr, arcomp, or something comparable that is not ball powder and is temp stable that works for grendel.
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Best corrosion protection for small steel parts?

pangris
Jsp556 said:
Why not just use Melonite/Nitride treated parts? Corrosion resistance is a major benefit of the treatment.

ETA: your springs and detents inside the rifle are going to corrode in that environment eventually so regular maintanence is going to have to be done anyway.
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Friendly Local Gunshop had barricade, applied it tonight.

It would be a major PITA to source and replace every different type of hardware on the gun.

Agreed on the importance of regular maintenance, but hopefully this will keep the external contact points looking good and working smoothly.

I'll probably invest in some of the Corrosion X Aviation, but for toady, my two main go -to's are barricaded up.

Thanks to all that chipped in!
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Israel/iran

Maggot
sirhrmechanic said:
So where is Israel’s big Thursday surprise?

The one bigger than the pagers??

LAME!

We want exploding goat bombs or Hebrew space lasers or something….

This is really getting boring. If I wanted to watch endless missile tracks and see silly propaganda photos, I’d watch Ukraine!

Can’t they even come up with some “Rabbi of Revhovot who slays Iranians with an izmel?” Or the “Solly the Shalom Sniper who greets his targets before smoking them?” We can’t even get the Kibbutz Kosher Tractor Brigade to steal an Iranian pipeline or something.

Again… lame!!! We need hero’s!

Sirhr
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So you think its time for them to break out :
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Insurance on long gun ship

jrhtx
DeathBeforeDismount said:
USPS with insurance. They wont loose it. Once the insurance is over like $500 they put it in a separate area thats locked. Shit always goes missing from UPS and Fedex. USPS employees are feds or contractors trying to become feds. Much less likely to fuck with your shit. Postal inspectors don't fuck around.

It will also be the cheapest option for your FFL to ship it. I bet $10K insurance would be less than $200 shipped.

You should lookup the new rules for shipping guns without an FFL. Its a pain in the dick. You are better off telling them its not a gun and just shipping to an FFL than declaring. I used to mail a ton of guns via USPS. Its not worth the bullshit anymore. Easier to drop off to my FFL and let her deal with it.
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If you aren't a FFL UPS and FedEx will not ship a firearm, if they know. They implemented that several years ago. There are some companies, Bud's(?) and now Gun Broker have something worked out where you pay them a fee and ship on their FFL somehow. Haven't used it.

I took a long gun to the PO to ship registered with well over $10K insurance. I was talking with the person at the counter and said it's the safest way to ship, "it's locked up in a special cage every night, signed for, etc, right?". She just laughed. she went to the back and brought out a canvas bag. She said if it didn't fit in the bag it didn't get locked up. No way was it going to fit in the bag. It just gets left on the floor by the cage. And also know if you ship USPS registered, it could take weeks(!!!) to be delivered. And tracking is not reliable on registered.

USPS regs also say an individual cannot ship a pistol or a firearm that is "concealable".

Also, you better check the regs because I think you are required to declare it is a firearm when you ship. And don't expect them to pay any insurance if it is lost/stolen if you don't declare. You will be lucky to collect even if you do declare and the steal it.

If you go private insurance, IE Collectors, be careful what you tell them if you want to get a policy. If you say you want $X00K in insurance to cover when I ship guns I sell and some for my collection, they probably won't write you a policy. Ask me how I know.
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Hypothetical: 1x fired --> annealed

H
straightshooter1 said:
Hmmm??? Yes and no.

Yes, the neck and even the shoulder can be returned to factory condition (new/spec hardness) when annealed " properly". When the neck is sized, work hardening happen most then. So, when annealing, one actually needs to get the neck softer than new condition so that after sizing, the hardness will increase to that "new condition".

As far as the body of the case goes, it's a no, as the body down to the web isn't being annealed and is getting harder than factory spec with each cycle of firing and sizing. The less movement the brass goes through upon firing and sizing, the slower the work hardening happens. Custom chamber with custom dies can minimize this movement to the point where annealing many not even be necessary over some period of time.
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Your response highlights the problem with my question - I didn't think about the rest of the case! Thank you! 1x is 1x.
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