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Mike Casselton said:

Redi whip in the front, chocolate syrup in the back?

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EXACTLY!!

SPF

DDGKunia said:

Mile high is where I got mine. May want to call them

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Thanks didn't see it in stock there after checking AGs

tekiwap said:

I figured this was as good a place as any vs starting a new thread.
Some IBA history. I got this a long time ago on a post far from here in Pineland. It's the prototype version. Pretty cool.

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Definitely a really cool and rare original piece, but I'm not certain that it's a prototype. We see this type of CMP/IBA EFR with the extended rear on IBA's law enforcement and commercial XM3's. The USMC never used this type of EFR, for whatever reason. The USMC XM3's and the prototypes were the first XM3's, then came the LE/civilian rifles after the original 52 USMC guns. So this type of EFR was used on rifles that were made after the USMC rifles were built. That's why I'm not certain about it being a prototype piece, since it was used on later guns.

Still a rare and valuable original piece for anyone who needs one for an XM3 build (LE/civilian, not USMC). Thank you for posting the photos, you never see loose pieces like these, so it's great reference material!

RUN8 said:

The 24” Bartlein on my AT-X is clearly defective.

The damn thing just refuses to show a statistically significant preference for any given load in my first round of load development. If I factor in my own shooter error and inconsistency

I can’t really draw any conclusions on what to settle on here. All but one load had SD’s in the single digits, and the worst at 43.5gr of RL16 was 13.2 FPS.

How the hell can I find “the load” when this stupid barrel won’t reveal what is the best?

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*end sarcasm*

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What caliber and bullet?

Charger442 said:

been shopping for ammo... one maker has their velocity and energy numbers flipped. I was like "4,471 FPS at the muzzle? no chance."

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An AI rifle in .338/20mm Vulcan sounds pretty epic, lol

ColRH7 said:

Im doing a transitional A3 build without the EFR rail up front but with the Unertl/USO. Should I do the badger m5 or dd bottom metal?

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As everyone else has said, go with the DD Ross bottom metal. I have a handful of you need one, just shoot me a message. I also have a few takeoff scope bases available.

LRI said:

Progress made over the weekend.

The dry sump is now fully installed, and the engine is primed. One small leak was caused by a fitting not being fully tightened. I call that a win, as this thing now has quite a bit of plumbing.
We're seeing 55 lbs with the pump driven by a cordless drill using a mechanical oil psi gauge.

Next, the headers were finished and hung. 2-1/4" primaries and 4-1/2 collectors should wake the dead! lol.

The fuel system is almost finished. The challenge is sorting out a good route for the return lines off the rails to the regulator and back to the tank. The headers complicate this as they consume a lot of the engine bay that used to be vacant.


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Dude that looks scary as Hell, to put your foot into and open up on the blacktop.
.

Defender32 said:

Yep. Lots of people do but it is only on a stock bought from a team member. I am lucky enough to have one I shoot with every weekend.

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The team always get some slick stuff for T&E, I remember seeing those on a couple photos of the team shooters rifles.

This little gem is an Impact 737 16” proof 1:7 and hammers 65grain game kings at 3065fps. It is my youngest boy and his big brothers 6gt behind it is money as well

@Dirty D I didn't know you lived in Texas.

Threadcutter308 said:

Yes.

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Mhmm, yep

loveha said:

LED

Never shut it off.

Unless I pound the table, it doesn't react. I may go to a counter top place see what they can do for me. Have a couple places around me.

I have tried a bounce drier sheet again just now wiping everything down, then draped it off the back stuck between the lid and the shield. Still no luck. Only thing I have done is made everything smell and feel like a drier sheet. Starting to wonder if I just have a bad scale. But I want to try a sinewave UPS first.

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And I assume you have no heating or air-conditioning going on and moving air around while doing this.

I've left my scale on for weeks, using it intermittently and had no drifting problems. The outlet my scale is plugged into also has a few other electronics plugged in (e.g. computer, monitors and printer and there's no apparent interference. However, if the outlet happens to also be on the same circuit as things like kitchen appliances. . . that can be an issue. As mentioned above, isolating the circuit can really help (assuming of course, there's really nothing wrong with your particular scale).

It'd be nice if you had a buddy that also had the same scale where you could run a test to see you have the same issue???

And yeah, It's just possible you have a unit that has something not working right.

BTW: I charge my cases the same way you do. . . a quick throw, with my Lee Powder Measure, and then trickle up on the scale with a Frankford Arsenal.

Mwalex said:

Oh yeah, this was a spin on JD talking to the Pope and then the Pope dying pretty quickly afterwards.

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I would have thought more like...