Not hard to do yourself. Could do it with a dremel or round file. Mirror what is already there. Work slow and you will be fine.

Did this for my T1X mdt XRS. Had to do clearance for the safety as well. I used a foredom (higher horse shaft drive).



Coated with some borrowed nail polish from my wife.


Bits I used.

Punkur67 said:

Stiller TAC300 built by MPA in 300wm, Krg Bravo stock, leupold mark 5.

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…about 13.5lbs?

The 9.3X74R dies?

Thank you,
MrSmith

Defiantly_Not_Bender said:

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It's been too long since I saw this response. Good to see it again.

CK1.0 said:

It sounds like you’re already on the right track…

There aren’t any real “rules” as long as you are safe and don’t do anything too knuckleheaded.

For 6CM specifically, almost everyone I’d ever talked to told me that something like Varget is too fast for 6CM and wouldn’t work well due to lower case fill… and I believed them, until I tried it, and it works great (as long as you’re going for consistency with SDs instead of speed). And slower powders can work great too, I shot a few pounds of H4381SC in the 6CM and it was great also. Don’t be afraid to try some recipes that haven’t been tried before, just be safe about it.

IMHO, speed doesn’t really mean shit, an extra 100fps (or even an extra 200fps) might only buy you like one tenth at 1000 yards… for what? If that extra speed means there’s more recoil and less time of flight that makes it harder to spot your shots, then the extra speed might actually make one shoot worse and get less impacts than they would going slower and getting to see their impacts/splash.

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This isn’t right
6 creed 109 lrht at 2950 is 6.85 at 1k
At 3050 it’s 6.32
At 3150 it’s 5.84

100-200 fps is very significant it’s not a tenth in this caliber it’s 1.1 mils! I get what you’re saying running slower can be accounted for with good dope but a flatter shooting rifle can minimize ranging errors and be more forgiving elevation wise.

Now if you’re talking about wind then yes it’s only about a tenth.

No problem finding things in a freezer chest if it's only holding ground beef. Put the rest of the cow in the upright freezer.

It’s obvious that many of the respondents here have never owned the devices in question.

LWTS - yes, it’s still very capable. Collimation is usually very good. Image isn’t as good as the UTM-X. Expect to pay 4500

UTM - most are not collimated (do not consider this an option)

UTM-X - there are several iterations. Some iterations have better collimation than others. If you find one you’re considering, pm me and I’ll let you know what version you’re looking at. Many of these are EXCELLENT still today. Expect to pay 4500-5500 for a fully collimated one.

CNVD-T - in 2025 I’d avoid 320 units but they can do the job in a pinch.

Those dogging on the Wilcox flip to side mounts for supposedly not returning to zero have no clue what they’re talking about. The WHOLE POINT of a collimated clip on is that the clip on isn’t affected by slight misalignment . I’ve used that mount under every condition you will encounter, and intentionally induced misalignment… it doesn’t affect anything at all if you’re using a collimated thermal as a clip on. I shoot tiny little groups with mine, which wouldn’t be possible if there was any truth to this.

If you’re using the thermal with its own reticle or you’re using a “zero the screen” type imitation clip on, you may have a problem, but this is a discussion about clip ons in clip on configuration.

Now, there are about 4 guys on the Hide with the budget for the range finding version of the Voodoo-M. There may be moments where the Wilcox mount could affect their disturbed reticle placement… so if you’re one of those 4, you can discuss the Wilcox mount. If you’re not, and you think it affects your point of impact, you don’t understand what collimation means, and haven’t tested what you’re saying with a precision rifle. Regardless, the OP is considering clip ons that wouldn’t be affected by this.

I have actually owned each of the devices we’re discussing here and used/tested them thoroughly.

The Wilcox mount is absolutely fantastic.

The UTM-X (if you choose the right generation) is the best bang for the buck and is absolutely still among the better performers. Its image is nearly identical to the $16,000 current issue Voodoo-S.

Voodoo-S - way above your current price point. Basically a UTM-X but much smaller and lighter.

EddieNFL said:

Just a few minor tweaks to achieve perfection…

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At that point, you might as well go with a 2011

Some shooters

Threadcutter308 said:

trudope II.

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The new guy is worse. Much smoother and more sophisticated con man. Boomers and lefties love his big eyed lean white haired persona.

Jadazu said:

The subjective difference between the two triggers is over-travel. Both break perfectly. TT says 'zero over-travel is best. BnA says 'no hard stop after break is best'.

(I'm not addressing objective things, like ease of cleaning...)

Really it's a personal choice. Does 'break-and-hard-stop' upset the rifle more than 'break-and-free travel'?

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It all has to do with your trigger process. Does your trigger pull require a longer follow through? My follow through likes a pull through, for others that pull through is a distraction.

mikeinfwa said:

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A bunch of hotties.........

Thx all for the comments

Here are some better pics of the old girl