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Maggie’s Motivational Pic Thread v2.0 - - New Rules - See Post #1

Most of mine still have the original nomenclature markings cause I’m too lazy to paint them. I mark the contents/load on the latch.
I used to label cans but it has gotten away from me in recent years. I just bought another 40 cans, if you want to come and spend the day helping me label cans I will buy the pizza and beer. Or, if you just want to come over and help be shoot some of this stuff up before I die. I have a stack of ammo still in the cardboard cases from PMC, UMC, Winchester, Federal and Remington that I am undecided if I want to take it out of the original cases and put it in steel cans.
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DeLane Development Group Rimfire Ventures

@RAVAGE88 great idea placing the mag blocker as far rear as possible.
I considered this but didn’t know if pressure on the DBM would have any influence on accuracy.

One other thing to consider, and likely this is accomplished by the 3 different lengths of mag blockers you’ll offer.
Lots folks are using 3d printed mag extensions which are wider all around and will interfere with mag blocker unless given enough space. I thought there was something mentioned a few posts back that your blocker will interface via ARCA. Assuming that’s the case, the 1.5” will allow for clearance of the aforementioned.

Good stuff. Love the concept!

View attachment 8726298View attachment 8726299
Yo, Dude,
One of my rough drafts had what I was calling a Mini-ARCA machined into the front face of the DBM, but I was trying to force myself to like it, so it evolved into a vertical dovetail on each side of the DBM. The benefits of the change were to move a little further back and wrap around the magazine, but as one can see from the attachment, there's space between the mag and the inside face of the Barricade Stop.

The distance between the inside parallel faces of the Barricade Stop is .8795", which is too narrow for the Hoz &Shield extension, which is a healthy 1.2" wide. The inside perpendicular face is .291" from the front of the mag and the H&S thickness from the mag housing is .113", so plenty of room there.

The MKM extension is the same profile as the molded Nylon mag and measures .850" at the front, so there's plenty of room for that one. To accommodate the H&S wasn't the goal, as the system design includes new Aluminum magazines that don't require an extension, but I'll think on the H&S dilemma a bit to see if there's an elegant way to deal with the 1.2" width.

MB

DDG M5-M5x-Med Barricade Stop-MB Mag-Bottom Oblique.JPG
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brand new car urge

no more Porsches
I get it.

I’m the same way with GM… when they screwed the bond holders (me among them) back during Obummer’s term, I said never again even though I grew up driving Chevys and raced Z28s. I wanted to get my wife a Cadillac CTS-V wagon, and I’d be driving a Corvette with a Z28 track car myself, but won’t allow any GM products to park on my driveway now, let alone allow one into my garage.

Seriously; I’ve made people park on the street rather than allow a GM product in my driveway. LoL

If you’re discounting the usual European fare for top contenders in that price range, I’m not too sure where to go other than a Corvette Z06, or maybe (eventually) a used ZR1. I’d consider a Ford Mustang GT, or maybe a Dark Horse, and throw on the factory-warrantied supercharger kit before either of those options though.

The GTD would beat them all, but it starts at $300K+…and now you’re back into lower-end supercar territory again.

If you don’t have to have the absolute fastest drag race vehicle, a new Ford F150 Raptor R might be a good pick too. Very nice ride, and fast as hell. I have a regular Raptor, but another neighbor has the Raptor R (as well as a Porsche Turbo S, LoL), and it’s fast as hell. Sounds great too…I love that V8 rumble.

For me, I’d get the Porsche GT4 RS and turn my Cayman R into a true track car, or maybe try to find a higher mileage Ferrari 458 Italia for that price.

7 saum

A 180 eldm will crush an elk. I've killed a few cow elk with the 108eh and 109 eldm in 6cm, they didn't move more than 25' and were dead with bullet put where they are supposed to be.

Ensuring the tips are open wirh a wire drill bit is pretty essential with Berger bullets.
I’ve debated the eldm but after the failure with Berger hunting, It
Was nosler bonded or something like hammer hunters.
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Henry SPD Hush vs Marlin Dark 1895

I've had my Marlin (Ruger) Dark for a bit over a year now. 45-70. running a dead air primal on it, put a Leupold FX-II 2.5x scout scope on it with low ARC M10 rings, Timney trigger. Really like it, shoot mostly cast/powder coated 340-500gr subs. Never have had any issues with mine. I've got a dozen other lever guns but basically only shoot this one any more. Will probably get an SBL 38/357 version soon to play with. Once you start shooting subs through a can it's hard to go back to the others (92, 94, 71,73, 65, 96/44, etc).

The raised comb on the stock really helps if you are going to run a red dot or optics on the rifle. Main reason (besides threading) that I went with the dark.

SR25 + RC2 & Double Feeds, Lube thoughts?

Thank you all. I'll work on my lube game. I have gotten away with grease on 5.56 guns for a long time now, but they do not respond quite like the large frame. The volume of gas and particulates must be (exponentially?) higher.

FWIW - I had a 20" at one time and used a rifle length buffer from Slash w/ the KAC spring I had - worked like a charm. The body of his CAR10 (5.5 oz) buffer is too wide to fit the inside diameter of the Tubb spring - otherwise I do wonder about that combo. On his site, Slash advises that flat wire springs are not recommended for any application.

I think there are several ways to skin a cat, and a flat wire spring 'feels' like it smooths out the impulses a touch. However, I personally don't claim to know if it is the correct thing to use or not, but if Sinister says thumbs up - that is a very strong rec in my book.

Again, thank you all.