I installed the Jard trigger on the Savage Impulse. It was a little finicky to install but got it on. At first the safety would not engage but the instructions were clear on how the adjust for that.

A function/safety check by slamming the bolt forward as hard as I could revealed that the sear engagement need adjustment. This took the trigger pull up from 1 lb. to 1.5 pounds before I was satisfied.

That's a little more than I like but I also have some peace of mind that the rifle is made as safe as possible.

I have used a lot of CCI 250s over the years, and am currently using the GM 215Ms with a 7-300 PRC (79.0gr N568).

I'd run whatever I could get enough of to last the life of a barrel and not look back.

I use Collectibles Insurance. They cover ally shipping too even if I am selling stuff until the person who is receiving signs for it.

Threadcutter308 said:

Liberal on liberal violence.

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Two dead and it'll be memory holed by Monday

georgelza said:

know this is something that we preferably don't want to do, have you played with swapping 215 out for 250 and seen the impact on your load. assuming everything stays the same.
G

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You won’t find that much difference, and certainly not one that points to which your rifles load combination might prefer without testing, if it results in a preference. They are effectively equivalent.

mkollman74 said:

Maggot and Maser - tied for who most wants to be Hitler Jr...

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No contest. I win!

Ill take the 10rd mag

Why would I switch up primers? I have enough 250s to kill all the barrels in my line up.

Radical Defense LS3/LS5 seems to be up there with the other high flow suppressors. 3D printed out of Haynes or Titanium. Great price point too at $849 for the short LS3 and $899 for the long LS5. Woth a look

I wouldn’t build a rifle just because you have a bunch of crappy ammo. A ruger American I guess would be a cheap way to burn through it if you have to scratch the itch.

Nice. What manufacturer does L3i use? Criterion?

Mike Casselton said:

HA!!
I came back on my return flight from the gulf war on a 141.
Pilot said we were its last mission.

When asked why, he said it was due to wing root cracks.

The next flight would take it to the Davis Monthan Boneyard.

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When I left, it took five different birds to get us home. Two C5s, two 141s and a 130. We IFE’d every landing. Ninety minutes over the Atlantic cabin filled with smoke (C5) and we turned back to Spain. Hours later got on the same 141 that originally got us there.

Landed at Dover and nothing available to Hurlburt Field. Wing CC sent a slick, but we couldn’t get our baggage pallet loaded. I found a truck with the keys in the ignition and borrowed it. When I returned it a TSgt came running out yelling I stole his truck. I threw the keys as far as I could and scrambled my ass onboard the 130. Half way home, an engine failed.

SilentStalkr said:

Yeah, I’ve seen anywhere from $128-$85,000 for the set. eBay seems to be a no go for a real value. I’m some ways I’m thinking my grandfather got ripped off. One of these sets he spend thousands on back in the early 2000’s. A $5 gold coin and a $1 silver set or something like that by PCGS and he paid like $2000 for it, for real.

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You have to look for the EXACT same coin that is in the PCGS slab. The value of the same type of $5 gold coin can be tens on thousands of dollars apart due to mintage numbers between the years. Or a MS-61 graded coin is 1 of 10,000 of that grade but a MS-62 might be 1 of 10 in that grade and it's the highest grade for that year or coin type. Or it might be a mint error coin. Scarcity and quality determine value in the coin world. And value can go up or down. Let's say in the year 2000 your grandfather paid $2k for a certain Morgan Silver Dollar that was rare at the time and then someone found a horde of that same coin in better condition. That $2k coin might be $500. Or 25 years later it's still as rare but with inflation it's now worth $3k. Hard to tell.

Post some pics of a couple you're interested in learning about.

For money spent, the Ruger Ranch would be a good choice, scope it and have fun. If you plan to start f'ing with it, then look at something like the Tikka. Big thing is, decide what you want and don't try to make something it's not. Example being buying the Ruger and spending 1500 or so with a new barrel and chassis.
Me, I have the RR, great little gun, stock. I also have a couple custom builds, nothing like the RR though with price, weight and performance but also not "match guns"
You could find a decent "traditional" stock, AICS mag BM, Origin action, prefit from PVA(light-med Palma) and have a really nice compact useful rifle. The easy button is a KRG Bravo stock.

It happens monthly. It automatically logs you out after that month and wants you to verify your age and log back in. If you use two factor authentication, which you really should do, you'll have to provide Authy app's six digit code or the emergency codes provided when you initially sign up for two factor. At least that's what I've had to do for several years now, IIRC.

Another option for a plinker (not necessarily a heavy barrel match rifle) is Eurooptic has Tikka Ranahan's in 223 on sale right now.