we will be staying in eugene OR for a few days then driving up the coast and staying in portland for 2 days. one of those days we will be going to mt st helens.

we have a list of hotels and i would like to know where to avoid.

if anyone has any points of interest, that would be appreciated as well.

edit to ad:
the hotels look to be near the intl airport, a few hotels are across the river in WA.

thank you.

As the title would seem to indicate… I need a 9mm piston and 3-lug adapter for a Rugged Obsidian 45 can.

Cash or trade.

I have things. Strange and wonderful things. Things that defy the laws of nature and physics. Things that will make you irresistibly attractive to the same sex. Things that even @Dirty D has never jammed up his butt.

500 Pieces of once fired 6.5 PRC Norma Brass. $65 shipped per 100 pieces.

For sale is a BAE Oasys UTM-X thermal, with full kit from the factory. This was used by a private security company and then sold back. It is NOT stolen government property. No dead pixels, no issues. 2014 DOM with 5.2 software, including the Trace-IR feature. Has built-in full power IR and Vis lasers. Very multi-functional and handy unit.

Includes:

Thermal
Wilcox FTS Mount
Bag
Unit to USB Cable
Unit to Recorder Cable
Manual, CD, and Quick Reference Card
Lanyard & Tie Down
Ocular cover and Eye cup


Looking for $6400 shipped. Happy to answer any questions or provide more photos.

$185 shipped

Selling my UTM-X with the latest software. 5.2
Has tracIR and all the goodies
Need $7k

1. Giraud Triway trimmer (never used) $90 shipped .223
2. Giraud Triway trimmer (lightly used) $85 shipped 300 BLK - SOLD
3. Magpul Bipod picatinny mount $75 shipped (Excellent cond)
4. Magpul Bipod QD mount $85 shipped (Excellent cond)

Looking for a Remington 700 long action with a serial in the G641-G683 serial range. Magnum Bolt Face preferred.

Have some bolt gun stuff I'm selling, and figured I should also try listing it on here. Parts are barely used, I just never got around to actually using these for what I had bought them for.

First is a Cadex Field Tactical Chassis in FDE. Fits Tikka T3x short actions, and accepts AICS mags. Minimal wear, sending it out in the original packaging and will include a Cadex .30 cal brake along with 3 MDT Metal AICS 10rd mags
Looking to get $1500 OBO

Next is a Tikka T3x Short Action with a Pre-fit Proof 20" Carbon Barrel. Has the stainless fluted bolt and stock adjustable trigger. Was fitted in to the chassis, but I never really stretched it out or shot beyond function testing, so parts are still in good condition.
Looking to get $1400 obo.

First time posting here but I have exchange history over on ARFCOM/Tacswap/GAFS

Selling one .22lr cz 455 or cz 457 barrel.

American/sporter 21". $75 or best offer.

16" varmint is sold.

American is the best shooting barrel I've had, I run a suppressor now though.

I am delving into a precision build for a PRS class and a prairie dog shoot this year. I'm planning on going big and picking up a 737R barreled action, looking at Straight Jacket or Jason Schur to put it together for me (other suggestions welcome). I have some questions (maybe too many) I'm hoping to get some advice on.

I have an original (before MDT) JAE-700 I plan to use, a Timney with a wildly curved profile that I might replace (pretty sure they don’t make it anymore), and a lot of the basic accessories. I thought I was set on using a Vortex Razor HD 4.5-27x56 but the Arken EP5 has caught my eye. From what I have looked into, they are relatively close with a lot of people saying the Razor has better clarity.
-Is that the only significant difference?
-Is it worth 3x the cost?

I’ve been reloading for a long time but I will be new to precision reloading, I need to get an annealer and I am planning on getting a Forster Coax. I have a Lyman Turret and a Dillon XL750 but from what I understand the concentricity/perpendicularity of these aren’t up to snuff for precision reloading.
-In terms of dies, what should I be looking at?
-What do people use for trimming? I only have a basic trimmer, do I need anything better?
-Is crimping necessary or do you just use neck tension?
-Tumbler vs Ultrasonic? (I have both) I have heard that the heat from ultrasonics can negatively affect precision brass, I’m suspect of this.
-Any other equipment recommendations?

I think 6 Dasher makes sense for me. I know it’s the “it” cartridge, but its performance and recoil are appealing. I’ve seen barrel life all over the map (500 to 3k) so I don’t know what to think there. I know brass is only made by a few people but there are a lot of options for projectiles. I reload and shoot a lot of basic cartridges (9mm, 45 ACP, .223, 300 AAC, .308, 30-06, 45-70) so this will be a jump in terms of uniqueness.
-Is this the right choice?
-Load recommendations?

As far as the barrel I plan to use a 26” MTU. I have a SiCo Saker 762 but I know a lot of people run muzzle brakes instead.
-6 Dasher has tame recoil, is it recommended to use a muzzle brake to bring it down as much as possible?
-Barrel length/profile the right choice?

Really nice Tangent available never had a lick of trouble with it gen 3xr reticle comes with the Hawkins heavy tactical rings and the scope chaps. $3950 shipped as it sits.

New never used. $175 TYD via Venmo/PayPal. Ships USPS with tracking.

Alabama reloading B/S/T thread.

I am looking for 2000MR and Lapua .308 LRP brass.

I have 400 rounds of Berger 140gr 6.5CM ammo to trade

Selling my lightly used Leupold Mark 4 HD 4.5-18x52 with the PR2-MOA Reticle

Really like the scope, but finally decided to switch over to MIL

34mm Tube First Focal Plane
Includes the nice aluminum flip caps

$1050 950 tyd

Having issues with an older AR-10(T). Gun started out as a 24" SS Target Barrel W/Free Float Tubular Handguard. I had a local smith cut the barrel down to 16" and install an Armalite forend (as pictured). I assume the twist rate (unknown) wasn't accommodating to the shorter barrel, as it will not seem to group anything within 6".

With that said, does anyone know of a barrel manufacture that will make a heavy 16" barrel for this pattern rifle and install it? Can I have a new barrel installed WITHOUT having to replace the bolt? Parts for these guns seem to be hard to find.

I need powder recommendations. I'm shooting 77smks out of an ar15. Barrel is 14.5 criterion core with a huxworks flow 5.56k can. I'm using CCI primers and lake City brass. All brass has been annealed.

I spoke to the guys at Sierra and they mentioned that n140, the powder I'm using, isn't good for a 14.5. what powder are you guys running?

It needs to be temperature stable because I'm shooting year-long outdoor matches and it needs to be obtainable. So h4895 is out lol.

Please help.

For sale Arken sh4 gen II 4-16x50 in wheeler mount. Comes with bubble level and vortex scope caps. 300 obo. PayPal or Venmo accepted

The safe clean out continues.

You know what a rifle blank looks like. Don’t waste anyone’s time. 400 shipped PayPal F&F.

Bart
5R
MTU contour
.224
29 blank
1:7 twist

"We hunt as a family, and those in our hunting party who aren’t family are close enough they may as well be. Mine is a family with a long cherished practice of hunting, farming, and raising our own food. The primary origin for these handed down practices and skills comes from my Father, and his Father before him."

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Hello all, I have been in the process of researching a build for a new long range hunting rifle for a long time now and after too much contemplation I finally "pulled the trigger". It is a Remington 700 Action that I had a Bartlen 1:8 twist barrel chambered in 7MMX300 Win Mag. The barrel is finished at 26" + the break. I already had the MPA Ultra Lite chassis for it and had a Triggertech trigger installed. The Action was Blueprinted and if you can call it Truing for a Rem 700 it was. The break was timed but the Trigger/Bolt was not.

I am having some problems now though after being incredibly pleased with my initial shooting of right around 0.446" at 100 yards for a 6 round group. ( I load 6 so that I can have a 5 round group with a true called flyer if needed. This one was not needed so I just made the hole a little bit bigger. This was shot during the initial barrel break in and preliminary load development.



The smith that built this rifle uses a different type and manufacturer of brass. (Old Remington I believe- I could not tell you the exact details, but not anything I can get.

It is however a reamer for 300 Win Mag necked down to 7MM.

After having good luck with Lapua 300 Win Mag brass in a true 300 Win Mag I decided to use that.

I am now however thinking that due to the neck thickness of Lapua brass that I may need neck turn this. I have never neck turned before- But I have researched it and have everything I need with the exception of a 7mm Mandrel which is now set to arrive tomorrow.

If you all could weigh it if you think Neck turning is indeed going to help provide a solution and also any input on how/when to do that would be incredibly appreciated.

With little prep the Lapua Virgin Brass shoots well. I am getting some flattened primers but no other signs of pressure except for a heavy bolt lift that is different then what I have experienced as a pressure sign on other guns in previous loads. It is only that last 10 Degrees or so of bolt lift that is at all heavy like it just needs to make that final "snap into place". That's why I made the comment about also possibly needing to have the firing pin/bolt timed? Sorry for my ignorance- But I still have much to learn and want to soak up as much knowledge from the experienced users on here as possible.


The Virgin brass that requires extra effort for that last 10 or so degrees is only on the higher end of my load data.

The real issue was once I went to shoot my now fire formed brass. I have done so twice so far. My last trip to the range yesterday I shot some additional Virgin Brass to continue to work up my stock pile of fire formed brass while also shooting what I was hoping would be working towards my final load development for this rifle. I had trimmed the brass as it had now been fired twice and per the data was needed, but it was properly chamfered and deburred. After experiencing the issue I also closely examined for any "lip" from the trimming process which was not present.

Even though I was still .003 off the lands this now 2X fired brass was somewhat difficult to chamber like what you would experience with a load that was jammed into the lands. No true force was needed, but it was clear that operation was not smooth or proper. Once fired I was getting all "heavy bolt lifts" mostly for that same last 10 degrees.

When I got back to the range I took a few of these pieces of brass to see if my 7mm Berer EOL Elite Hunters would fit by hand back into the fired and not yet re-sized brass. even with what limited force I could give it with my hand I could not get the correct projectile to fit into the case neck past the rear taper where the true bullet diameter of .284 is. (same type/brand/weight/lot bullet that was shot only an hour earlier)

When measuring the inside diameter of the neck with just my calipers I am getting between .2795 and .2815. This does not seem right to me as the bullet that was loaded yesterday morning into this brass was .284 and shot that afternoon before these measurements were taken.
This leads me to believe that the neck on my brass is to thick for my chamber- Is this an accurate assumption?

When I measure with a ball micrometer the neck wall thickness of the brass is reads at different locations on different 2x fired brass of 0.01565" - 0.01605". I did tumble the brass prior to these readings to remove the carbon which I believed would affect these measurements. After seeing the discrepancies I believe my neck tension/consistency would benefit from turning the neck regardless of whether or not this thickness was too great for my chamber.



My real questions are as follows-

Do you believe turning the necks will help/solve this issue of the 10 degrees of heavy bolt lift?
Assuming I will be turning these necks how much do I take off? My original thoughts (though I still need to measure more cases) would be based off the .284 7mm Diameter and subtract narrowest fire formed neck inside diameter IE .2795. Then this measurement of .0045" would be divided by 2 since I would be trimming the neck 360 degrees and the measurement needed is a diameter. So that would mean .00225" Minimum just to get to .284. But would I want to take off a little bit more than the bare minimum? Subtracting .002225 would give me a new neck thickness of .0134" Which I understand to still be a fairly "healthy" neck thickness. Would I be better off going ahead and trimming everything down to and even .013" or even less to prevent this from happening once additional firings of this brass occur? Maybe .0125" for my target neck wall thickness?
It is my understanding that is best to turn the necks just after resizing- Is that accurate?
Finally- Based on what I have described- Do you think turning the necks is all that is needed- Or is there anything that stood out to anyone that may mean that I do still need to get the bolt timed?

For sale, Insight arms .264 cal Heathen $125 shipped.

Little Crow 6.5x47 trimmer $50 shipped.

At some point acquired three 1 pound jugs of H335. I only reload for .308, .338LM, and .22-250 at the moment. I will start reloading for 22 ARC hopefully later this year. I have not really looked into powder options for the 22 ARC yet but ,looking through my manuals I don't see anything I can load using this powder. What caliber(s) is H335 good for?

Building a left handed hunting/NRL rifle.

WTB a multitude of actions or barreled actions with a CF barrel in 6.5 creed/PRC. Let me know what you have.

Factory sealed, Brand new in box left handed R700 short action MDT ACC ELITE chassis, black. 1250 shipped TYD, or best offer.
Street price is 1600 on euro optic and optics planet.