Comparing the s&b to tt (5x25), I'd take the TT for sure. But with the s&b 6x36 I was using yesterday on the TRG, I'd probably pick that over the TT 5x25. My old eyes need some higher magnification 
Ah, degloving? I have not the pleasure of experiencing that.It wasn't a prefit. Custom job done by JR Firearms in the UK.
I've got an injured hand at the moment so controlling the rear bag has quite uncomfortable.. was still sub MOA at 900yds but nothing to shout about.
At 100yds it was .2 -.3 MOA groups all day... prior to my injury...
Don't wear wedding rings folks.. that's all I'll say as the rest is quite graphic
I wish you a speedy recovery.
Yes indeed. Fortunately they saved my finger on the night and just needed everything stitching back together.
3 weeks later the wound has healed but still swollen like a balloon.. so trying to get back out shooting but after about 5 minutes of adjusting a bag with just my forefinger and thumb it was getting a bit sore
Thanks..Comparing the s&b to tt (5x25), I'd take the TT for sure. But with the s&b 6x36 I was using yesterday on the TRG, I'd probably pick that over the TT 5x25. My old eyes need some higher magnification
does it need to be 90 degrees? because this grip on an AR is the GOAT of grips and should be excellent on that chassis also.
ERGO FLAT TOP TACTICAL DELUXE GRIP – SUREGRIP® - ERGO Grips
The palm filling Tactical Deluxe Grip with aggressive texture. The top has been made flat so it will fit onto chassis system stocks that take AR-15 type grips. Although this grip will fit on an AR-15 type rifle the back of the grip does not lay flush with the back of the receiver (check out the...
www.ergogrips.net
id run it long before you grip that actually looks acute.
If you don’t need the AI-specific ones, these worked for my legacy R700 AICS (and I suspect would work on the other thumbhole variants of factory AI guns but not sure): https://a.co/d/9xuRrBl
I sympathize. If you give up, these are nice. Not as cool, but nice:
Upgrade in cheek piece for Accuracy International Stocks
I know I saw somewhere, a pad to put on the cheek piece to make it more "tacky" than the stock one. Anyone know what I am thinking of? Thanks in advance.
www.snipershide.com
If you want the 25mm long non-AI ones I have and you’re in North America, dm me your address and I’ll send you them for free. They’re a little too long for my tastes (see link) but they’ll tide you over.
Accuracy International - Cheekpiece Thumbscrew (Single) - 20333
Genuine Accuracy International Cheekpiece Thumbscrews. Price shown is per screw. * Please note these no longer include AI logo. ** Not suitable for new AT-X.
www.sportingservices.co.uk
These are available too. I've ordered from them several times and no issues.Accuracy International - Cheekpiece Thumbscrew (Single) - 20333
Genuine Accuracy International Cheekpiece Thumbscrews. Price shown is per screw. * Please note these no longer include AI logo. ** Not suitable for new AT-X.
Sporting Services - Cheekpiece Thumbscrews (Pair)
Accuracy International compatible Cheekpiece Thumbscrews. Price shown is for a pair. * Not suitable for AT-X.
www.sportingservices.co.uk
The new Vision Grip is supposedly very good from speaking to a couple of the Vision Pro team.
I plan on taking mine apart if i can find directions because the rear left screw was loosish and i never touched it before. I saw my proof barrel a tiny amount tilted to the left torqued to spec and went over all the bolts, that is when i found out one of the action screws was not torqued. It needs deep cleaning so i plan on taking it apart.
That Remington is about as soy as that bed spread.... #notanAI
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Beat me to it. Was about to post a Caitlin Jenner photo...
I think they do a pretty good job of adjusting themselves when you least want them to...
.*has not happened to me*
**yet**
I was dm’ing Husky but here it is apart somewhat:
Remove barrel (not mandatory, makes it easier if you have a long handguard/nv bridge)
Remove rear chassis bolt.
Remove front chassis bolt
Remove the bolt behind the mag release
Remove the (whatever you call the hinge/sling thingy)
Rail/chassis comes off
Remove 2 trigger screws
Then remove the 4 action screws the action comes off
Remove barrel (not mandatory, makes it easier if you have a long handguard/nv bridge)
Remove rear chassis bolt.
Remove front chassis bolt
Remove the bolt behind the mag release
Remove the (whatever you call the hinge/sling thingy)
Rail/chassis comes off
Remove 2 trigger screws
Then remove the 4 action screws the action comes off
Attachments
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I just took mine apart and torqued it. The rear screws almost felt like they were glued in. Damn near gave up I was afraid to strip them. Torqued the action screws to 35 inch lbs per the manual
The screw behind the mag latch is just for the mag latch. Didn’t have to be removed to remove the action.
Also the sling stud/catch for the folder thing…ya you can remove or install that anytime. Doesn’t connect anything internal. Just that catch itself. It’s really easy to strip the head on….ask how I know
In my defense it definitely was not in there at 8 in lbs
I just took mine apart and torqued it. The rear screws almost felt like they were glued in. Damn near gave up I was afraid to strip them. Torqued the action screws to 35 inch lbs per the manual
The screw behind the mag latch is just for the mag latch. Didn’t have to be removed to remove the action.
Also the sling stud/catch for the folder thing…ya you can remove or install that anytime. Doesn’t connect anything internal. Just that catch itself. It’s really easy to strip the head on….ask how I know
View attachment 8442501View attachment 8442497
The rear ones were really tight, and made good noise breaking loose. Front ones were hand tight.
I completely reversed that hinge thingy because it gets in the way of my hand and i don't rest my thumb on it. It is a mixture of parts from non hinge and hinge screws. Left side is the sling mount, right is flat bolt head.
Same thing on mine. I torqued them all even to 35 in lbs. Maybe it’ll shoot like crap now idk. But at least if I need to strip down for any reason I know what I’ll return the torque to
Running the 308 AT at the last PRS UK match, this seems to be my ‘go to’ combination currently
First time painting a rifle. Pretty happy with it. I'll need more practice in the future. Rifle is being prepped for an upcoming course.
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Don’t worry about the deer !
Those weeds ! Those weeds ! They gonna take the whole crop.
Those weeds ! Those weeds ! They gonna take the whole crop.
Captain, a new message is coming through the comms!I have nothing to do with the weeds or the corn haha
I’m just a trigger puller
I figured a deersniper would understand
JEDI U MUST SHOOT THE WEEDS
This past weekend was our monthly club match at Precision Rifle Queensland in sunny Australia. As always I was shooting my AT-X. This month had the 6 Creedmoor barrel spun on. Unfortunately, the wheels fell off for me in the last two stages and I ended up with 6th overall. When I got home and inspected the rifle, I realised the action was loose in the chassis. That would explain why the last two stages I couldn't hit much. It might be time to bond the action like my old AX.
Did you ever double check the torque when you first got the rifle ? Just curious.
Yeah. I pulled it all down and torqued it all. The AI dealer here in Australia cerekoted it for me too.
Would a touch of blue loctite on the action screws be beneficial?
With the ATX checking torque is much more involved then a standard chassis as you have to take it apart each time
Why I just bought a AXSA
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