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Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

Mpepin07...I bought the 338LM last year. Like you, it was a decision between the 300PRC and 338LM. I'm 66, and starting to getting a little recoil shy. The 338 does kinda kick my ass. And it's definitely NOT cheap to shoot either. But, I do reload. And, after reloading my initial loaded cartridge purchases 6-7 times the price now is reasonable. Luckily I have my own land where I can shoot 625 and 800 yds anytime. And until my neighbor planted corn I could shoot 1200 yds too. The 338's kind of a waste under 1200 yds, but oh well.

But in the back of my mind I still question whether I should have gotten the 300PRC instead. Obviously a LOT less recoil and for me and that would be great. Reference what Flintstrike said in his post above! Even though I reload everything it would also be cheaper. And the performance is close too. Everything said though, the 338 is still my favorite rifle. If I go out to shoot anymore, 90% of the time I take the 338. I haven't reloaded for my 6.5CM RPR in months. The 6.5G and .308 have been sitting. But I've got 40 rds of 338 reloaded ready to go. I usually shoot that many a week at least. Just a retired hobby shooter, but I'd still rather take it out than anything else!

At this point, in my opinion, I feel if you reload, and you've got someplace that you can shoot anytime, at distances 1200 yds plus, then go with the .338LM. If not then I'd go with the 300 PRC. Probably a better choice for the circumstances.

At the rate I'm going I don't know whether the bbl will give out on the rifle first or I will LOL. I guess it doesn't matter, I figure to step down at that point and replace the rifle with a .300PRC. That's the only way I'll figure out if my choice was right initially!
 
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Thanks for the response coyotewillie. I do reload and have looked into the cost for feeding the 338. It is relatively high, but not unreasonable to me. My local range goes out to 1,000 yards and I also have a buddy from work with some land where I could shoot a bit further. I agree that the 300 PRC is probably the more practical choice for me needs, but the 338 is one of those calibers that I've always wanted to own "just because". I found a good deal on one here on the forum through a friend of a user, so I should be pulling the trigger on it relatively soon. Cant wait!
 
A "big dog" was more or less on my bucket list. I really didn't figure on getting one though since I'm feeling the recoil more the older I get. But I shot a friends RPR and the recoil really wasn't bad because of the weight. He actually asked me today, since I'm shooting mine all the time, what I'd do when I shot the bbl out. And I told him what I posted earlier, I'll get rid of the 338 and go to the 300PRC. At least I scratched the "big dog" itch.
 
Quick question. Is it possible to adjust the trigger pull on the RPR magnum rifles? Just asking as I haven't been able to figure it out even after reading the instructions. The instructions appear to be designed for the non-magnum calibers.
 
2038BDF8-4AAE-4A94-B65A-92090CB973D7.jpeg

Definitely helps your groups when you get a quality rear bag. It was 107* in the desert today when I shot this group. I have 120 rounds down the pipe and it is really getting dialed in.
 
Quick question. Is it possible to adjust the trigger pull on the RPR magnum rifles? Just asking as I haven't been able to figure it out even after reading the instructions. The instructions appear to be designed for the non-magnum calibers.

Yes, there shouldn't be ANY problem making an adjustment as the trigger is the same for all the RPR's.

 
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View attachment 7350729
Definitely helps your groups when you get a quality rear bag. It was 107* in the desert today when I shot this group. I have 120 rounds down the pipe and it is really getting dialed in.

Kudos to you for being out shooting in that kind of heat. Down here in Phoenix area I get out early and quit when it gets to 100°F. I'm too old to put up with that kind of heat. :eek: ;)
 
I've had my RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor a few years now. I reload 140 ELD-M with H4350 giving me 2800FPS.

Last year I decided to try my hand at 1000 yd benchrest.

My best 5 shot group at 1,000 yards last year was 6.67 inches. Not too shabby.

I replaced the factory stock with a MagPul stock because the factory one is cheap and pulls beard hairs like crazy.

Running a SilencerCo Omega suppressor and a Vortex Razor Gen II HD scope.

41827777_2172667196284712_7727538990420590592_n.jpg


This was a 1000 yard 7.215 inch group but scored a 49.
Match 3   5 25 2019 Target.jpg
 
I've had my RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor a few years now. I reload 140 ELD-M with H4350 giving me 2800FPS.

Last year I decided to try my hand at 1000 yd benchrest.

My best 5 shot group at 1,000 yards last year was 6.67 inches. Not too shabby.

I replaced the factory stock with a MagPul stock because the factory one is cheap and pulls beard hairs like crazy.

Running a SilencerCo Omega suppressor and a Vortex Razor Gen II HD scope.

View attachment 7354015

This was a 1000 yard 7.215 inch group but scored a 49.
View attachment 7354016
Not too shabby at all! Few more weeks and my range here in NY should be reopened
 
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OK RPR peeps, I am stumped.

I have a RPR 6.5 CR gen 3. Put enough rounds down range that i am actualy out shooting the barrel even as a newer shooter. Prob close to 4500 rounds down range. Loss of velocity and and constancy.

So, I decided to upgrade everything
Seekins 15 handguard and red safety selector, timney trigger, arca rail with ckyed bipod, new Tract Optics 4.5 -30×56 scope, anarchy outdoors bolt shroud, bolt tool, firing pin, bolt handle and bolt knob, 30 MOA rail, MDT skelton carbine stock, and mag well release extender. Last but not least, Proof Research 6.5 CR carbon fiber prefit barrel capped of lil basterd tunable muzzle break (cause i live in NJ and can't own a can)

Have watched numerous how to videos and read as many posts on what tools and parts are needed.

Have barrel vice, anarchy outdoors action wrench, breaker bar, magpul armorours tool, LMI barrel not torque tool, etc.

Anyways, rifle stripped as as expected and left with action on factory barrel.

I think Rugar must use a beast to torque the barrel nut on it has moved about 2 turns while starting light and added breaker bar to to magpul tool and also tried LHI tool. MOVED ABOUT 2 TURNS. Tried heating the nut and no joy. Tried even using the reverse method with the anarachy outdoors action rod and rotating the barrel. NOTHING!

Any other suggestions for moving a seized barrel nut. I am 255 lbs and litterly had worked up to my full weight on the end of the breaker bar on both barrel nut tools. Desperate and frustrated! Suggests greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 
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OK RPR peeps, I am stumped.

I have a RPR 6.5 CR gen 3. Put enough rounds down range that i am actualy out shooting the barrel even as a newer shooter. Prob close to 4500 rounds down range. Loss of velocity and and constancy.

So, I decided to upgrade everything
Seekins 15 handguard and red safety selector, timney trigger, arca rail with ckyed bipod, new Tract Optics 4.5 -30×56 scope, anarchy outdoors bolt shroud, bolt tool, firing pin, bolt handle and bolt knob, 30 MOA rail, MDT skelton carbine stock, and mag well release extender. Last but not least, Proof Research 6.5 CR carbon fiber prefit barrel capped of lil basterd tunable muzzle break (cause i live in NJ and can't own a can)

Have watched numerous how to videos and read as many posts on what tools and parts are needed.

Have barrel vice, anarchy outdoors action wrench, breaker bar, magpul armorours tool, LMI barrel not torque tool, etc.

Anyways, rifle stripped as as expected and left with action on factory barrel.

I think Rugar must use a beast to torque the barrel nut on it has moved about 2 turns while starting light and added breaker bar to to magpul tool and also tried LHI tool. MOVED ABOUT 2 TURNS. Tried heating the nut and no joy. Tried even using the reverse method with the anarachy outdoors action rod and rotating the barrel. NOTHING!

Any other suggestions for moving a seized barrel nut. I am 255 lbs and litterly had worked up to my full weight on the end of the breaker bar on both barrel nut tools. Desperate and frustrated! Suggests greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
I'm getting ready to spin a new barrel on mine. This sounds a bit odd. I know they torque the hell out of them but from what I've seen once you get initial movement it just spins off. Of course if your 4500 round count is accurate there may be some issue with the barrel being completely shot out. Wish I could help.
 
might be a good place to ask this but has anyone using one of the rpr's replaced the butt stock and if so what did you end up using ? saw a nice machined aluminum piece until I saw the price was 1/2 the cost of a new gun but it was nice looking .
 
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might be a good place to ask this but has anyone using one of the rpr's replaced the butt stock and if so what did you end up using ? saw a nice machined aluminum piece until I saw the price was 1/2 the cost of a new gun but it was nice looking .
I think alot of people are running the pmag stock.
 
MagPul
41827777_2172667196284712_7727538990420590592_n.jpg


might be a good place to ask this but has anyone using one of the rpr's replaced the butt stock and if so what did you end up using ? saw a nice machined aluminum piece until I saw the price was 1/2 the cost of a new gun but it was nice looking .
 
might be a good place to ask this but has anyone using one of the rpr's replaced the butt stock and if so what did you end up using ? saw a nice machined aluminum piece until I saw the price was 1/2 the cost of a new gun but it was nice looking .
Was it this one?
 
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OK RPR peeps, I am stumped.

I have a RPR 6.5 CR gen 3. Put enough rounds down range that i am actualy out shooting the barrel even as a newer shooter. Prob close to 4500 rounds down range. Loss of velocity and and constancy.

So, I decided to upgrade everything
Seekins 15 handguard and red safety selector, timney trigger, arca rail with ckyed bipod, new Tract Optics 4.5 -30×56 scope, anarchy outdoors bolt shroud, bolt tool, firing pin, bolt handle and bolt knob, 30 MOA rail, MDT skelton carbine stock, and mag well release extender. Last but not least, Proof Research 6.5 CR carbon fiber prefit barrel capped of lil basterd tunable muzzle break (cause i live in NJ and can't own a can)

Have watched numerous how to videos and read as many posts on what tools and parts are needed.

Have barrel vice, anarchy outdoors action wrench, breaker bar, magpul armorours tool, LMI barrel not torque tool, etc.

Anyways, rifle stripped as as expected and left with action on factory barrel.

I think Rugar must use a beast to torque the barrel nut on it has moved about 2 turns while starting light and added breaker bar to to magpul tool and also tried LHI tool. MOVED ABOUT 2 TURNS. Tried heating the nut and no joy. Tried even using the reverse method with the anarachy outdoors action rod and rotating the barrel. NOTHING!

Any other suggestions for moving a seized barrel nut. I am 255 lbs and litterly had worked up to my full weight on the end of the breaker bar on both barrel nut tools. Desperate and frustrated! Suggests greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I used a shit ton of penetrating oil. Mine seemed like they used red loctite on it which is a possibility. Once the barrel nut is slightly loosened you should be able to spin the action off the barrel. Once the action is off then worry about getting the barrel nut off the barrel. I had to smack the crap out of my AR wrench and use a 24 in 1/2 inch breaker bar as well. Hope this helps
 
RPR trigger...I’ve been looking at and researching 2 stage triggers. My initial thought is I don’t think I would like them. But as I was shooting my RPR I realized that maybe I’m using the trigger safety take up to preload my finger on the trigger like I’ve heard people describe a two stage trigger. Anyone have experience with RPR trigger and a two stage trigger? Is a two stage anything like what I am doing with the RPR stock trigger?

I've run a Timney trigger on mine for a couple years now, set down to 8 oz first stage/8 oz second stage. It is an impressive trigger, though it took some fiddling to make sure the sear didn't break as I closed the bolt - that's something Timney warns about in the instructions. I had some issues with the trigger not engaging after I closed the bolt recently, so I'm going to increase the 2nd-stage weight.

I did the same uptake of the trigger safety with the stock trigger, and I was extremely happy to move to the Timney. The second stage will be much lighter than the stock trigger. 😂
 
I've run a Timney trigger on mine for a couple years now, set down to 8 oz first stage/8 oz second stage. It is an impressive trigger, though it took some fiddling to make sure the sear didn't break as I closed the bolt - that's something Timney warns about in the instructions. I had some issues with the trigger not engaging after I closed the bolt recently, so I'm going to increase the 2nd-stage weight.

I did the same uptake of the trigger safety with the stock trigger, and I was extremely happy to move to the Timney. The second stage will be much lighter than the stock trigger. 😂
Couldn't imagine running my Timney on 8oz 2nd stage. I run a 1.5 lb 2nd stage and even that seems touchy enough and running the second stage finalizes my stability prior to trip. Seems an 8oz and 8oz leaves you just pulling the trigger.
 
Couldn't imagine running my Timney on 8oz 2nd stage. I run a 1.5 lb 2nd stage and even that seems touchy enough and running the second stage finalizes my stability prior to trip. Seems an 8oz and 8oz leaves you just pulling the trigger.

It's something to get used to, for sure, but most of the top PRS shooters run sub-1-pound triggers. The "wall" is still easy to feel at an 8-oz second stage.
 
It's something to get used to, for sure, but most of the top PRS shooters run sub-1-pound triggers. The "wall" is still easy to feel at an 8-oz second stage.
I've heard of quite a few running between 12-15 oz. I haven't heard of anyone running an 8 oz. Especially not in PRS since at 8oz on a single stage would discharge if you were to drop it.

I see now that there are some running a .5 lb trigger pull. Not as many as .5-.9. Kind of surprising stat. Not the .5-.9 but the less than .5
 
I've heard of quite a few running between 12-15 oz. I haven't heard of anyone running an 8 oz. Especially not in PRS since at 8oz on a single stage would discharge if you were to drop it.

A 2019 survey of the top PRS/NRL shooters by precision rifle blog have ~30 or so running triggers below 8 oz, and over 100 shooting between 0.5 and 0.9 lbs. (Link: https://precisionrifleblog.com/2019/01/20/best-trigger/)
And to clarify, the overall pull weight of my trigger is 1 lb, which is the lightest weight I currently feel comfortable shooting. And I might bump it up to the 1.5-lb range, to solve the bolt close issues I've run into a couple of times.
 
A 2019 survey of the top PRS/NRL shooters by precision rifle blog have ~30 or so running triggers below 8 oz, and over 100 shooting between 0.5 and 0.9 lbs. (Link: https://precisionrifleblog.com/2019/01/20/best-trigger/)
And to clarify, the overall pull weight of my trigger is 1 lb, which is the lightest weight I currently feel comfortable shooting. And I might bump it up to the 1.5-lb range, to solve the bolt close issues I've run into a couple of times.
Yeah I saw that graph right after I posted that. Should have had an edit in there. I knew the <.9 was common. Couldn't have imagined the <.5
 
Yeah I saw that graph right after I posted that. Should have had an edit in there. I knew the <.9 was common. Couldn't have imagined the <.5

Yup. As far as I'm concerned, they're crazy. I've fired a gun using a 6-oz benchrest trigger and decided that I only wanted to *metaphorically* be surprised when the gun went off, not literally jump every time I touch the trigger.
 
Yup. As far as I'm concerned, they're crazy. I've fired a gun using a 6-oz benchrest trigger and decided that I only wanted to *metaphorically* be surprised when the gun went off, not literally jump every time I touch the trigger.
Yeah I just recently switched to the Timney 8oz/ 1.5lb setup from the stock trigger and even that took me several rounds before I felt like I had it handled.
 
I’ve been wondering about a replacement RPR stock as well. I’m tired of the way the original stock is biting me just in front of the ear and not holding it’s position no matter how it’s tightened!

Lots of places to grab and hang up on clothes as well!
 
I’ve been wondering about a replacement RPR stock as well. I’m tired of the way the original stock is biting me just in front of the ear and not holding it’s position no matter how it’s tightened!

Lots of places to grab and hang up on clothes as well!
I've only had an issue one time with the stock, and that was my own fault. I like that the buttpad can can't, you can put the throw levers on either side, and the overall adjustability of the stock one... Does what I need it to. Most of the posts I've seen talk about the Magpul PRS but the LOP is 15" at the lowest adjustment . A few companies have a compatible stock.
 
What
I’ve been wondering about a replacement RPR stock as well. I’m tired of the way the original stock is biting me just in front of the ear and not holding it’s position no matter how it’s tightened!

Lots of places to grab and hang up on clothes as well!
What part of the stock is "biting" in front of your ear?
 
What

What part of the stock is "biting" in front of your ear?

I think it is a combination of the cheek riser, hearing protection, and butt pad conspiring to pinch me! 😃

I get all three aligned and locked down to the point all is working well but then after 40 - 50 rounds something inadvertently slips and it’s back to pinching.

Stock just does not adjust and lock up solidly for me and has too many sharp edges on it. It has never fit me well!
 
I think it is a combination of the cheek riser, hearing protection, and butt pad conspiring to pinch me! 😃

I get all three aligned and locked down to the point all is working well but then after 40 - 50 rounds something inadvertently slips and it’s back to pinching.

Stock just does not adjust and lock up solidly for me and has too many sharp edges on it. It has never fit me well!
Oh I got cha. I'm left handed on a RH action so I run the flip levers on the other side. I also turned the cheek riser 180* so that the long side runs to just short of the buttpad. I also run a little long on LOP. The one slippage issue I had was I didn't have the LOP adjustment set right and I toggled the flip levers at some point so it slid forward. But other than that I haven't had slip issues but I also make it to where you damn near need a breaker bar to flip the levers over. One thing I don't like is how hard the cheek riser is but I'm going to start running a little foam pad on there.
 
I think it is a combination of the cheek riser, hearing protection, and butt pad conspiring to pinch me! 😃

I get all three aligned and locked down to the point all is working well but then after 40 - 50 rounds something inadvertently slips and it’s back to pinching.

Stock just does not adjust and lock up solidly for me and has too many sharp edges on it. It has never fit me well!

Lol sounds like you should go for the Magpul PRS (or something like it). Rock-solid with smooth, consistent adjustments.

I had the original stock collapse on me while running a stage at a training event. That was fun. 🤣
 
I finally spent some time behind my gen 2 6mmCM RPR last weekend and noticed a couple of things.
One, it's LOUD. Has anyone tried to remove the brake in install a muzzle nut?

Two, factory mags seem to suck. I had multiple lock ups occur when stripping the round, about half way closed. Had to back off the handle, the round would pop up, then close the colt.
Operating the bolt to slow? I don't know what caused this but now at home, I can't duplicate it.

Three, last round out of the mag causes a stoppage. The round pops out of the mag as the bolt moves forward and the bolt catches the top of the case head somehow, pointing the round downward into the ramp and stopping the bolt. Much like the previous stoppage, back off the bolt, the round settles onto the top of the mag, move bolt forward and it closes properly.
I even tried single feeding the rounds, nada. The nose of the round ran into what I think was the top of the chamber and caused a stoppage. I only tried it once, glanced at the situation, backed up and regrouped and moved on.
This is one picky feeding rifle. One guy with me has the same rifle in 6.5CM and was interested in my issues, saying his rifle has the same type problems.

Thought on any of this?
Thanks
 
Original stock was a pain to adjust and collapsed without warning as well.

Target Tool Stock, pricy but a really nice addition. Stiffer and seems much easier to shoot different positions. Also easy to adjust and the adjustments stay set.

49832D4B-31A2-4ED7-8619-AB99CDB3CE72.jpeg
 
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Original stock was a pain to adjust and collapsed without warning as well.

Target Tool Stock, pricy but a really nice addition. Stiffer and seems much easier to shoot different positions. Also easy to adjust and the adjustments stay set.

View attachment 7356617
It definitely is much easier to adjust and much nicer overall. I'm very pleased with mine.
 
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I finally spent some time behind my gen 2 6mmCM RPR last weekend and noticed a couple of things.
One, it's LOUD. Has anyone tried to remove the brake in install a muzzle nut?

Two, factory mags seem to suck. I had multiple lock ups occur when stripping the round, about half way closed. Had to back off the handle, the round would pop up, then close the colt.
Operating the bolt to slow? I don't know what caused this but now at home, I can't duplicate it.

Three, last round out of the mag causes a stoppage. The round pops out of the mag as the bolt moves forward and the bolt catches the top of the case head somehow, pointing the round downward into the ramp and stopping the bolt. Much like the previous stoppage, back off the bolt, the round settles onto the top of the mag, move bolt forward and it closes properly.
I even tried single feeding the rounds, nada. The nose of the round ran into what I think was the top of the chamber and caused a stoppage. I only tried it once, glanced at the situation, backed up and regrouped and moved on.
This is one picky feeding rifle. One guy with me has the same rifle in 6.5CM and was interested in my issues, saying his rifle has the same type problems.

Thought on any of this?
Thanks

Get some ARC 10 round magazines. My 3rd gen 6.5 feeds 100% with them. Plus they drop free when released.
 
Get some ARC 10 round magazines. My 3rd gen 6.5 feeds 100% with them. Plus they drop free when released.

Thanks for your reply, Sir. I will look into these.

I can only echo what's been said here already about how this rifle shoots. I fired a single round to zero the scope then fired the remaining four rounds into a .51 group at 100 yards. At the tail end of a hot range day and after being abused by no less than four other .30 cal milsurps we moved back to 265 yards and I fired a five round group into 1.48. Mirage was bad and at 15x I had a hard time picking out a target to aim at. I'm very happy with the rifle's performance and if some new mags take care of the feeding issue I'll be ecstatic.
 
Anyone tried the hard trigger out in the rpr? Looks like its jard and timney for trigger options an I'm not a 2 stage fan
 
Anyone tried the hard trigger out in the rpr? Looks like its jard and timney for trigger options an I'm not a 2 stage fan

I'm still using the factory trigger, it's not bad at all. However, if I do decide to swap it out I'll use the Timney. I've used their triggers before and like them a lot.
 
I'm still using the factory trigger, it's not bad at all. However, if I do decide to swap it out I'll use the Timney. I've used their triggers before and like them a lot.
Im not a two stage fan. If they offered a single stag trigger it would be a no brainer. On timney
 
So after my last post about the barrel nut on my RPR not budging, I gave up and gave it to a gunsmith to try and muscle off. He thinks it might be mis-threaded but is gonna see what he can do. In the mean time, I found a great deal and purchased another RPR in 6.5 and will customize that one.

But, if he is able to salvage the action, what would you all do....build a 308 or 6mm ? I am think 308 but I am curious what thoughts others have.
 
So after my last post about the barrel nut on my RPR not budging, I gave up and gave it to a gunsmith to try and muscle off. He thinks it might be mis-threaded but is gonna see what he can do. In the mean time, I found a great deal and purchased another RPR in 6.5 and will customize that one.

But, if he is able to salvage the action, what would you all do....build a 308 or 6mm ? I am think 308 but I am curious what thoughts others have.
Mine was a real pain in the ass to get off. What I did was vice it up and wack the wrench with a 2 pound sledge lol. I'm a big 6mm fan . A 6mm honestly does everything I need it to do. Have you thought about 7mm-08?
 
Been struggling trying to take off my factory RPR barrel as well. I have an armorers wrench but it appears the teeth are not meshing well with the teeth on the barrel nut and I am hesitant to gorilla it for fear of trashing the whole works. I’ve got a Viper barrel vise and an Anarchy Outdoors action wrench available as well.

Is anyone able to recommend a good quality wrench that does not break the bank that Is capable of handling a 3 foot pipe on the end of it? This sucker is on tight!

Conversely, is there a willing member in the Seattle/Bellevue vicinity that can help me take off the factory barrel? If able to help please PM me directly. Thanks!
 
Been struggling trying to take off my factory RPR barrel as well. I have an armorers wrench but it appears the teeth are not meshing well with the teeth on the barrel nut and I am hesitant to gorilla it for fear of trashing the whole works. I’ve got a Viper barrel vise and an Anarchy Outdoors action wrench available as well.

Is anyone able to recommend a good quality wrench that does not break the bank that Is capable of handling a 3 foot pipe on the end of it? This sucker is on tight!

Conversely, is there a willing member in the Seattle/Bellevue vicinity that can help me take off the factory barrel? If able to help please PM me directly. Thanks!
LRI makes a RPR solid tool and I can tell you it stays on. It does require a 1/2 socket breaker bar to interface. The magpul tool interfaces great and doesn't slip either. My nut is just to stuck to crack!
 
Been struggling trying to take off my factory RPR barrel as well. I have an armorers wrench but it appears the teeth are not meshing well with the teeth on the barrel nut and I am hesitant to gorilla it for fear of trashing the whole works. I’ve got a Viper barrel vise and an Anarchy Outdoors action wrench available as well.

Is anyone able to recommend a good quality wrench that does not break the bank that Is capable of handling a 3 foot pipe on the end of it? This sucker is on tight!

Conversely, is there a willing member in the Seattle/Bellevue vicinity that can help me take off the factory barrel? If able to help please PM me directly. Thanks!
The magpul wrench works well. Took a mallet to get mine lose 3 wacks and she spun free
 
The magpul wrench works well. Took a mallet to get mine lose 3 wacks and she spun free

2 somewhat mild whacks with a rather large rubber mallet broke the nut loose for me

Cjt1983 and straightshooter1, for sh!&$ and grins, when looking down the muzzle towards the stock which way were you banging (turning) the barrel nut to break it loose? Clockwise or counter-clockwise?