Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

dfiant

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I'm not sure you can shoot the PRC out if the standard RPR. You may need the magnum one with a beefier action
From what I can tell the 6.5 PRC is the short action same as 6.5 CM. I know you can build a 6.5 PRC in a standard SA Remington 700 action. Maybe not with the RPR? I just wouldn't think it made financial sense to have a third action size just for the 6.5 PRC and from what I can see the 6.5 PRC is on the short action.
 

TacticalDillhole

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From what I can tell the 6.5 PRC is the short action same as 6.5 CM. I know you can build a 6.5 PRC in a standard SA Remington 700 action. Maybe not with the RPR? I just wouldn't think it made financial sense to have a third action size just for the 6.5 PRC and from what I can see the 6.5 PRC is on the short action.
Yeah I’m just thinking because it’s a different bolt face size it won’t fit 🤷‍♂️
 

NCHillbilly

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Has anyone shooting the RPR in 300WM found a particular bullet or grain weight that it prefers. I have a number of different bullets ranging from 175grs to 225grs to try, but my oppotunities for actual trigger time are very limited. I hope to eventually try all that I have, but for the time being, was just wondering if it shows a preference.
 

aamity

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Has anyone shooting the RPR in 300WM found a particular bullet or grain weight that it prefers. I have a number of different bullets ranging from 175grs to 225grs to try, but my oppotunities for actual trigger time are very limited. I hope to eventually try all that I have, but for the time being, was just wondering if it shows a preference.
Mine really loves the 208gr ELDMs at 2900 fps. Just bought some 220gr SMKs to play with and see if I can develop a good load.
 

dfiant

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I don't believe this will work. I think the 6.5 PRC would require the magnum action.
Why do you think that is the case? It may be the case, idk. Ruger just told me they won't sell just an action or bolt, or even a barrel. Liability and engineering etc. I don't think any of the major manufacturers would do it, hence why I was asking here...

However, 6.5 PRC was designed to fit in a normal short action with a magnum bolt face. When I bought my Curtiss Custom, I purchased a short action and both a 308 and magnum bolt so I could shoot either round with one action. If Ruger's action won't fit a magnum bolt, It is hard to believe from a financial/tooling standpoint that they would design a short-action magnum action for this one caliber or are they making it on the long/magnum action?
 

flyfisher117

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What magazines is everyone having best luck with in their 6.5 CM RPRs? My Magpul AICS pattern arent working well for me. I have the AR10 pmags and they work pretty good but I was looking for some metal mags.
 

geek65

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What magazines is everyone having best luck with in their 6.5 CM RPRs? My Magpul AICS pattern arent working well for me. I have the AR10 pmags and they work pretty good but I was looking for some metal mags.
My son (age 16) who shoots the RPR (6.5CM) finds the metal AI magazines stiff/difficult in insert and extract, so prefers the standard plastic magazines. Although, we have just bought a single load sled (metal), which fits perfectly.
 

aamity

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Why do you think that is the case? It may be the case, idk. Ruger just told me they won't sell just an action or bolt, or even a barrel. Liability and engineering etc. I don't think any of the major manufacturers would do it, hence why I was asking here...

However, 6.5 PRC was designed to fit in a normal short action with a magnum bolt face. When I bought my Curtiss Custom, I purchased a short action and both a 308 and magnum bolt so I could shoot either round with one action. If Ruger's action won't fit a magnum bolt, It is hard to believe from a financial/tooling standpoint that they would design a short-action magnum action for this one caliber or are they making it on the long/magnum action?
I just realized I was mistaken in what I posted. In my mind I was thinking the 300 PRC. Derp.
 

8pointer

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Curious everyone's thoughts. My 6.5 RPR shoots best with a few rounds down the tube. Not a clean bore but my groups shrink significantly with a warm barrel. I'm talking maybe MOA first 10 shot group down to .5 MOA after shooting 20 or so rounds. Why is this?
This is pretty interesting as I have the exact same experience with my Gen 2.
 

dfiant

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RPR trigger...I’ve been looking at and researching 2 stage triggers. My initial thought is I don’t think I would like them. But as I was shooting my RPR I realized that maybe I’m using the trigger safety take up to preload my finger on the trigger like I’ve heard people describe a two stage trigger. Anyone have experience with RPR trigger and a two stage trigger? Is a two stage anything like what I am doing with the RPR stock trigger?
 
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flyfisher117

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This is pretty interesting as I have the exact same experience with my Gen 2.
Mine is also a Gen 2. I thought it may just be cold shooter so the last while I have been taking multiple guns to the range and shooting the RPR last. Still noticing a slight drop in groups after 20 or so rounds. Maybe its just me getting warmed up to the gun itself. It is my only "chassis" rifle so it is the most different of them all.
 

f-bomb79

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Hi everyone... First post: new to SH. I have a gen 1 RPR in 6.5CM. I just purchased a Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25 scope as an upgrade and mounted it using the ARPEPR +20 moa cantilever mount. I am touching the handguard if I set the scope to my preferred eye relief. I have been looking for a lower profile handguard to resolve the issue. I ordered a paper city rpr handguard that appears to be on back order. Wondering if anyone has been down this road. I have seen a few guards that will work but I'm also not trying to spend $250+ to simply shave a half inch off the top of my existing guard.

 

ilaybrk

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I have a paper city handguard it is nice but you cant lower much more than the stock hand guard because of not being able to get a proper cheek weld
 
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f-bomb79

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I have a paper city handguard it is nice but you cant lower much more than the stock hand guard because of not being able to get a proper cheek weld
I am where I want to be in the cheek weld... This scope has a 56mm bell so it’s just touching slightly... with the +20 MOA on the mount I can’t get the sun shade on the scope either which isn’t a huge deal but it would be nice.
 

thegrayham

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RPR trigger...I’ve been looking at and researching 2 stage triggers. My initial thought is I don’t think I would like them. But as I was shooting my RPR I realized that maybe I’m using the trigger safety take up to preload my finger on the trigger like I’ve heard people describe a two stage trigger. Anyone have experience with RPR trigger and a two stage trigger? Is a two stage anything like what I am doing with the RPR stock trigger?
In short, yes. I am a big fan of 2 stage triggers because they let you settle up and take up the first stage and sit on the second stage wall... when your ready to let one fly, it's like pulling a single stage trigger from that point but you already have your finger married to the trigger nicely. Not saying you can't do this with a single stage since that what's in my t1x.. but I think the 2 stage is easier.
 
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dfiant

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In short, yes. I am a big fan of 2 stage triggers because they let you settle up and take up the first stage and sit on the second stage wall... when your ready to let one fly, it's like pulling a single stage trigger from that point but you already have your finger married to the trigger nicely. Not saying you can't do this with a single stage since that what's in my t1x.. but I think the 2 stage is easier.
As I was shooting the other day, I was really focusing on trigger pull and I noticed that I really liked the fact that I could really get my finger situated before actually pulling the trigger.

I think it may help me slow down and focus on the trigger pull as well.

Going to have to get a two-stage for my custom build.
 
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cgobeli

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I am where I want to be in the cheek weld... This scope has a 56mm bell so it’s just touching slightly... with the +20 MOA on the mount I can’t get the sun shade on the scope either which isn’t a huge deal but it would be nice.
I thought the rail already had 20 MOA already in it, do you need the additional 20 MOA?
 

Jaron3

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I thought the rail already had 20 MOA already in it, do you need the additional 20 MOA?
If that’s the case then yes. So if his rail and mount are both 20 MOA he now has a 40 MOA slant. Replacing the mount with a 0 MOA one may fix his problem.
 

f-bomb79

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If that’s the case then yes. So if his rail and mount are both 20 MOA he now has a 40 MOA slant. Replacing the mount with a 0 MOA one may fix his problem.
I hadn’t considered the 20 MOA on the rail when I chose that mount. That’s definitely a factor. The new handguard shipped so between that and the mount I should be able to dial it in. Thanks everyone!
 

8pointer

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For those of you shooting the factory pipe with factory loads what kind of longevity did you get b/f you noticed a big velo drop off?
 

straightshooter1

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For those of you shooting the factory pipe with factory loads what kind of longevity did you get b/f you noticed a big velo drop off?
Since I don't have data to answer the question directly, let me offer this info that might be of some help . . .

First, the answer is going to be different from one caliber to another and the same for just which factory loads one is using (all factory loads are not the same, as some can be hotter than others, which will reduce longevity).

In my .308, I had just over 3700 rounds through the factory pipe when I decided to switch it out for a Krieger barrel. There was still plenty of life left in that barrel and was getting consistent .5 MOA with my hand loads. The lands had moved ~ .030; looking at it with a bore scope I could see plenty of firecracking in the 1st 3 inches in front of the chamber. There was no apparent drop in velocity with my hand loads as I made adjustments to the load to keep in the barrel's accuracy node.

Given the .030 movement of the lands after 3700 rounds and extrapolating that to the use of the Federal GMM 168 SMK's and 175 SMK's, I would have seen about 15 fps, or so, slower velocities. I wouldn't call that a "big" drop off. And I suppose if I put 7400 rounds though it for another .030 movement and a similar reduction, 30 fps could be considered "big" . . . I guess??? 🤷‍♂️

Now if one is talking about a 6.5 CM, that'd be a whole different story. ;) 😵
 

Islas82

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I guess I’ll bring this thread back to life. Am getting a proof research barrel (steel) delivered tomorrow I have had a now discounted gen 2 5.56 RPR for a while and decided to upgrade the barrel, not that there was anything wrong with the factory barrel it actually shot very well but I just wanted to see how I could improve performance. This rifle started as a “trainer” but now its just a lot of fun to shoot.

I removed the factory barrel last night. I read many horror stories online about people having a hard time removing factory barrel off RPRs but mine was super easy ( maybe 5.56 barrels aren’t as tight as others) but basically just put the barrel on a viper barrel vice and just used a magpul A wrench and with one tap of a 4lb hammer the nut came loose instantly.

Am pretty excited to see what kind of improvement I can get with the new barrel, being a .223 wylde and from everything I have read it’ll probably last forever.
 

gigamortis

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What magazines is everyone having best luck with in their 6.5 CM RPRs? My Magpul AICS pattern arent working well for me. I have the AR10 pmags and they work pretty good but I was looking for some metal mags.
I run the ARC 10 round magazines. They are basically an AICS top end with shorter feed lips and a double stack bottom end. They feed my Berger 130 AR Hybrids exceptionally smooth and reliably. They drop free without me having to lift my stock off the rear bag, too.
 
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flyfisher117

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I run the ARC 10 round magazines. They are basically an AICS top end with shorter feed lips and a double stack bottom end. They feed my Berger 130 AR Hybrids exceptionally smooth and reliably. They drop free without me having to lift my stock off the rear bag, too.
I'll check those out. I was looking at the MDT but got lost in the search to find out if I would need the stiffener plate they offer in their mags.
 

mpepin07

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Long time lurker, first time poster here. I have decided on purchasing an RPR and am pretty set on going the 300PRC route but also kicking around the idea of going 338. I haven’t had luck finding any of these rifles in stock near me (Denver area). Upon looking online it seems almost everywhere is out of stock. Does anyone know why this seems to be the case? Any insight on when this may change and these will become more available?
 
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flintstrike

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Long time lurker, first time poster here. I have decided on purchasing an RPR and am pretty set on going the 300PRC route but also kicking around the idea of going 338. I haven’t had luck finding any of these rifles in stock near me (Denver area). Upon looking online it seems almost everywhere is out of stock. Does anyone know why this seems to be the case? Any insight on when this may change and these will become more available?
I just picked up my RPR in .300PRC from the dealer this morning. Ordered it from grabagun. Their prices seem competitive and have had good experiences with them in the past.

EDIT. Nevermind, I just checked their site and it looks like it's out of stock now. I'd only just ordered it last Friday. Guess I got lucky.
 

flintstrike

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Took the new .300PRC out to a 100yd range today to sight it in. I was suprised by the lack of recoil. It has maybe a quarter or half the recoil my AR-10 does. Also, I love the stock trigger on it. From a trigger perspective, my only comparison for is my Aero Precision AR-10 with factory trigger, but I was really pleased with the trigger on the RPR. I saved the targets and can post them if anyone is interested, but just based on eyeballing it I'd say I'm getting .4 MOA maybe slightly better.
 

coyotewillie

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Mpepin07...I bought the 338LM last year. Like you, it was a decision between the 300PRC and 338LM. I'm 66, and starting to getting a little recoil shy. The 338 does kinda kick my ass. And it's definitely NOT cheap to shoot either. But, I do reload. And, after reloading my initial loaded cartridge purchases 6-7 times the price now is reasonable. Luckily I have my own land where I can shoot 625 and 800 yds anytime. And until my neighbor planted corn I could shoot 1200 yds too. The 338's kind of a waste under 1200 yds, but oh well.

But in the back of my mind I still question whether I should have gotten the 300PRC instead. Obviously a LOT less recoil and for me and that would be great. Reference what Flintstrike said in his post above! Even though I reload everything it would also be cheaper. And the performance is close too. Everything said though, the 338 is still my favorite rifle. If I go out to shoot anymore, 90% of the time I take the 338. I haven't reloaded for my 6.5CM RPR in months. The 6.5G and .308 have been sitting. But I've got 40 rds of 338 reloaded ready to go. I usually shoot that many a week at least. Just a retired hobby shooter, but I'd still rather take it out than anything else!

At this point, in my opinion, I feel if you reload, and you've got someplace that you can shoot anytime, at distances 1200 yds plus, then go with the .338LM. If not then I'd go with the 300 PRC. Probably a better choice for the circumstances.

At the rate I'm going I don't know whether the bbl will give out on the rifle first or I will LOL. I guess it doesn't matter, I figure to step down at that point and replace the rifle with a .300PRC. That's the only way I'll figure out if my choice was right initially!
 
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mpepin07

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Thanks for the response coyotewillie. I do reload and have looked into the cost for feeding the 338. It is relatively high, but not unreasonable to me. My local range goes out to 1,000 yards and I also have a buddy from work with some land where I could shoot a bit further. I agree that the 300 PRC is probably the more practical choice for me needs, but the 338 is one of those calibers that I've always wanted to own "just because". I found a good deal on one here on the forum through a friend of a user, so I should be pulling the trigger on it relatively soon. Cant wait!
 

coyotewillie

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A "big dog" was more or less on my bucket list. I really didn't figure on getting one though since I'm feeling the recoil more the older I get. But I shot a friends RPR and the recoil really wasn't bad because of the weight. He actually asked me today, since I'm shooting mine all the time, what I'd do when I shot the bbl out. And I told him what I posted earlier, I'll get rid of the 338 and go to the 300PRC. At least I scratched the "big dog" itch.
 

flintstrike

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Quick question. Is it possible to adjust the trigger pull on the RPR magnum rifles? Just asking as I haven't been able to figure it out even after reading the instructions. The instructions appear to be designed for the non-magnum calibers.
 

straightshooter1

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Quick question. Is it possible to adjust the trigger pull on the RPR magnum rifles? Just asking as I haven't been able to figure it out even after reading the instructions. The instructions appear to be designed for the non-magnum calibers.
Yes, there shouldn't be ANY problem making an adjustment as the trigger is the same for all the RPR's.

 
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straightshooter1

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View attachment 7350729
Definitely helps your groups when you get a quality rear bag. It was 107* in the desert today when I shot this group. I have 120 rounds down the pipe and it is really getting dialed in.
Kudos to you for being out shooting in that kind of heat. Down here in Phoenix area I get out early and quit when it gets to 100°F. I'm too old to put up with that kind of heat. :eek: ;)
 

ShipAhoy

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I've had my RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor a few years now. I reload 140 ELD-M with H4350 giving me 2800FPS.

Last year I decided to try my hand at 1000 yd benchrest.

My best 5 shot group at 1,000 yards last year was 6.67 inches. Not too shabby.

I replaced the factory stock with a MagPul stock because the factory one is cheap and pulls beard hairs like crazy.

Running a SilencerCo Omega suppressor and a Vortex Razor Gen II HD scope.

41827777_2172667196284712_7727538990420590592_n.jpg

This was a 1000 yard 7.215 inch group but scored a 49.
Match 3   5 25 2019 Target.jpg
 

LongRangeLefty

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I've had my RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor a few years now. I reload 140 ELD-M with H4350 giving me 2800FPS.

Last year I decided to try my hand at 1000 yd benchrest.

My best 5 shot group at 1,000 yards last year was 6.67 inches. Not too shabby.

I replaced the factory stock with a MagPul stock because the factory one is cheap and pulls beard hairs like crazy.

Running a SilencerCo Omega suppressor and a Vortex Razor Gen II HD scope.

View attachment 7354015

This was a 1000 yard 7.215 inch group but scored a 49.
View attachment 7354016
Not too shabby at all! Few more weeks and my range here in NY should be reopened
 
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Medic2109

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OK RPR peeps, I am stumped.

I have a RPR 6.5 CR gen 3. Put enough rounds down range that i am actualy out shooting the barrel even as a newer shooter. Prob close to 4500 rounds down range. Loss of velocity and and constancy.

So, I decided to upgrade everything
Seekins 15 handguard and red safety selector, timney trigger, arca rail with ckyed bipod, new Tract Optics 4.5 -30×56 scope, anarchy outdoors bolt shroud, bolt tool, firing pin, bolt handle and bolt knob, 30 MOA rail, MDT skelton carbine stock, and mag well release extender. Last but not least, Proof Research 6.5 CR carbon fiber prefit barrel capped of lil basterd tunable muzzle break (cause i live in NJ and can't own a can)

Have watched numerous how to videos and read as many posts on what tools and parts are needed.

Have barrel vice, anarchy outdoors action wrench, breaker bar, magpul armorours tool, LMI barrel not torque tool, etc.

Anyways, rifle stripped as as expected and left with action on factory barrel.

I think Rugar must use a beast to torque the barrel nut on it has moved about 2 turns while starting light and added breaker bar to to magpul tool and also tried LHI tool. MOVED ABOUT 2 TURNS. Tried heating the nut and no joy. Tried even using the reverse method with the anarachy outdoors action rod and rotating the barrel. NOTHING!

Any other suggestions for moving a seized barrel nut. I am 255 lbs and litterly had worked up to my full weight on the end of the breaker bar on both barrel nut tools. Desperate and frustrated! Suggests greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 
Last edited:

Jordanwickham

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OK RPR peeps, I am stumped.

I have a RPR 6.5 CR gen 3. Put enough rounds down range that i am actualy out shooting the barrel even as a newer shooter. Prob close to 4500 rounds down range. Loss of velocity and and constancy.

So, I decided to upgrade everything
Seekins 15 handguard and red safety selector, timney trigger, arca rail with ckyed bipod, new Tract Optics 4.5 -30×56 scope, anarchy outdoors bolt shroud, bolt tool, firing pin, bolt handle and bolt knob, 30 MOA rail, MDT skelton carbine stock, and mag well release extender. Last but not least, Proof Research 6.5 CR carbon fiber prefit barrel capped of lil basterd tunable muzzle break (cause i live in NJ and can't own a can)

Have watched numerous how to videos and read as many posts on what tools and parts are needed.

Have barrel vice, anarchy outdoors action wrench, breaker bar, magpul armorours tool, LMI barrel not torque tool, etc.

Anyways, rifle stripped as as expected and left with action on factory barrel.

I think Rugar must use a beast to torque the barrel nut on it has moved about 2 turns while starting light and added breaker bar to to magpul tool and also tried LHI tool. MOVED ABOUT 2 TURNS. Tried heating the nut and no joy. Tried even using the reverse method with the anarachy outdoors action rod and rotating the barrel. NOTHING!

Any other suggestions for moving a seized barrel nut. I am 255 lbs and litterly had worked up to my full weight on the end of the breaker bar on both barrel nut tools. Desperate and frustrated! Suggests greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
I'm getting ready to spin a new barrel on mine. This sounds a bit odd. I know they torque the hell out of them but from what I've seen once you get initial movement it just spins off. Of course if your 4500 round count is accurate there may be some issue with the barrel being completely shot out. Wish I could help.
 

acudaowner

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might be a good place to ask this but has anyone using one of the rpr's replaced the butt stock and if so what did you end up using ? saw a nice machined aluminum piece until I saw the price was 1/2 the cost of a new gun but it was nice looking .
 
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Jordanwickham

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might be a good place to ask this but has anyone using one of the rpr's replaced the butt stock and if so what did you end up using ? saw a nice machined aluminum piece until I saw the price was 1/2 the cost of a new gun but it was nice looking .
I think alot of people are running the pmag stock.
 

ShipAhoy

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MagPul 41827777_2172667196284712_7727538990420590592_n.jpg

might be a good place to ask this but has anyone using one of the rpr's replaced the butt stock and if so what did you end up using ? saw a nice machined aluminum piece until I saw the price was 1/2 the cost of a new gun but it was nice looking .
 

BU37377

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might be a good place to ask this but has anyone using one of the rpr's replaced the butt stock and if so what did you end up using ? saw a nice machined aluminum piece until I saw the price was 1/2 the cost of a new gun but it was nice looking .
Was it this one?
 
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Hardpan

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OK RPR peeps, I am stumped.

I have a RPR 6.5 CR gen 3. Put enough rounds down range that i am actualy out shooting the barrel even as a newer shooter. Prob close to 4500 rounds down range. Loss of velocity and and constancy.

So, I decided to upgrade everything
Seekins 15 handguard and red safety selector, timney trigger, arca rail with ckyed bipod, new Tract Optics 4.5 -30×56 scope, anarchy outdoors bolt shroud, bolt tool, firing pin, bolt handle and bolt knob, 30 MOA rail, MDT skelton carbine stock, and mag well release extender. Last but not least, Proof Research 6.5 CR carbon fiber prefit barrel capped of lil basterd tunable muzzle break (cause i live in NJ and can't own a can)

Have watched numerous how to videos and read as many posts on what tools and parts are needed.

Have barrel vice, anarchy outdoors action wrench, breaker bar, magpul armorours tool, LMI barrel not torque tool, etc.

Anyways, rifle stripped as as expected and left with action on factory barrel.

I think Rugar must use a beast to torque the barrel nut on it has moved about 2 turns while starting light and added breaker bar to to magpul tool and also tried LHI tool. MOVED ABOUT 2 TURNS. Tried heating the nut and no joy. Tried even using the reverse method with the anarachy outdoors action rod and rotating the barrel. NOTHING!

Any other suggestions for moving a seized barrel nut. I am 255 lbs and litterly had worked up to my full weight on the end of the breaker bar on both barrel nut tools. Desperate and frustrated! Suggests greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
I used a shit ton of penetrating oil. Mine seemed like they used red loctite on it which is a possibility. Once the barrel nut is slightly loosened you should be able to spin the action off the barrel. Once the action is off then worry about getting the barrel nut off the barrel. I had to smack the crap out of my AR wrench and use a 24 in 1/2 inch breaker bar as well. Hope this helps
 

2muchcowbell

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5
6
RPR trigger...I’ve been looking at and researching 2 stage triggers. My initial thought is I don’t think I would like them. But as I was shooting my RPR I realized that maybe I’m using the trigger safety take up to preload my finger on the trigger like I’ve heard people describe a two stage trigger. Anyone have experience with RPR trigger and a two stage trigger? Is a two stage anything like what I am doing with the RPR stock trigger?
I've run a Timney trigger on mine for a couple years now, set down to 8 oz first stage/8 oz second stage. It is an impressive trigger, though it took some fiddling to make sure the sear didn't break as I closed the bolt - that's something Timney warns about in the instructions. I had some issues with the trigger not engaging after I closed the bolt recently, so I'm going to increase the 2nd-stage weight.

I did the same uptake of the trigger safety with the stock trigger, and I was extremely happy to move to the Timney. The second stage will be much lighter than the stock trigger. 😂
 

Jordanwickham

Private
Minuteman
May 3, 2020
64
8
12
Southwest VA
I've run a Timney trigger on mine for a couple years now, set down to 8 oz first stage/8 oz second stage. It is an impressive trigger, though it took some fiddling to make sure the sear didn't break as I closed the bolt - that's something Timney warns about in the instructions. I had some issues with the trigger not engaging after I closed the bolt recently, so I'm going to increase the 2nd-stage weight.

I did the same uptake of the trigger safety with the stock trigger, and I was extremely happy to move to the Timney. The second stage will be much lighter than the stock trigger. 😂
Couldn't imagine running my Timney on 8oz 2nd stage. I run a 1.5 lb 2nd stage and even that seems touchy enough and running the second stage finalizes my stability prior to trip. Seems an 8oz and 8oz leaves you just pulling the trigger.
 

2muchcowbell

Private
Minuteman
Jun 18, 2020
23
5
6
Couldn't imagine running my Timney on 8oz 2nd stage. I run a 1.5 lb 2nd stage and even that seems touchy enough and running the second stage finalizes my stability prior to trip. Seems an 8oz and 8oz leaves you just pulling the trigger.
It's something to get used to, for sure, but most of the top PRS shooters run sub-1-pound triggers. The "wall" is still easy to feel at an 8-oz second stage.