Have a Gen 2 6 creedmoor that is starting to give me fits on ejection. Never had a issue until just recently. Not great on round count keeping but the bolt probably has 700 rounds give or take on it. Replaced the factory barrel with a LRI pretty quickly after purchase. Curious if anyone else’s has had issues with a 6 or 6.5 Creedmoor ejection. It’s starting to just dump rounds in the chamber. Some pieces dump when running bolt fast or slow. Some seem to be more prone when not real aggressive with the bolt. But still have some that do it no mater how hard I run the bolt. Cleaned up the bolt made sure nothing under the extractor. Extractor looks good. Ejector looks normal and freely moves up and down. Initially thought maybe I got to overzealous with bolt lube. But that wasn’t it. Then seemed like a certain lot of Hornady brass was the issue. But now it does it sometimes even with Alpha brass. Although it does seem less with Alpha or Peterson. I find some pieces that do it and I can get it to dump them over and over then all of a sudden the same pieces will start to eject fine. Running some practice stages the other night drove me nuts. I use it as a back up match rifle but at the moment have no faith in running it in a match. Thoughts or ideas?
Could the brass be worn where the extractor hooks it? Maybe try new brass and see what it does? I’m grasping at straws but what popped into my head.
It was with all new brass. That was my initial hope as well was just a lot of bad brass. And for a while it seemed to be true. But this morning I was playing around with some new Alpha brass and after about 20 pieces got a few to do the same thing. With the Alpha it does seem less often, especially if I run the bolt pretty brisk. I’m assuming now it’s something with the extractor.
I've suspected that some of our ejection issues may come from a form of 'hydraulic-lock' with the pin type systems. Think about it, spring loaded pins get pushed into the bolt face with accumulated lube that can't let air back in behind fast enough to function properly. I made certain this wouldn't happen by disassembling my RPR bolt and drilling a small 3/32" hole in the side of the bolt at the bottom of the ejector pin/spring well.
2nd barrel swap complete. Thanks to mmlook for the barrel. Excited to see the results....
You’ll love the upgraded shroud. The extra bit of weight makes a world of difference.
.....and I'm pretty happy with the results.....
the only single stage trigger I know of is Jard. I don't know how "decent" it is.
Timney makes an excellent trigger for it (I have one), just nothing for the single stage guys.
I don't own a JARD yet but I've looked into it and researched some reviews. The problem I have is the trigger that came on my Gen 1 RPR is pretty good.
Just bought this in 300 PRC and looking at upgrades. I've already ordered a fluted titanium shroud and going to get the magpul prs stock but as far as grip and replacement of the firing mode selector I'm stuck. I don't like how the selector feels against my thumb so want an option, saw the seekins on Anarchy Outdoors and want to make sure this works with it.
Also anyone have a suggestion for a rifle grip that has a decent thumb rest for a right handed shooter? Thanks for the input folks!
Also anyone have a suggestion for a rifle grip that has a decent thumb rest for a right handed shooter? Thanks for the input folks!
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I put the MPA-EVG from Anarchy Outdoors on my RPR. When I first got it I wasn't sure I was going to like it as the grip felt so much larger the the factory grip. But it really did help with my shooting consistency and I've gotten used to it to where I now love it.
Anarchy Outdoors also makes a straight grip for the RPR called the Penguin. If you have larger hands they make a larger version called the Emperor. Both have a thumb rest.
Rpr 6 creed an rprr 22lr I gotta be different then everyone else on colors lol
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As much as I love my full size RPR, when it came time to build a NRL22 rifle, I had to go with a Tikka T1X in a chassis. In the end I spent a decent bit more money, but it just feels like a more substantial rifle with a better upgrade path.
Anyone done any work on the cocking engagement on the bolt to get a smoother an lighter bolt close?
I am looking at getting into long range shooting and have been looking real hard at getting this in 300 PRC. Have you had a chance to shoot it?
I’ve been having trouble finding a variety of factory ammo. I know it’s a “newer” cartridge but I figured they would have variety out by now.
Save for a true match grade barrel. The factory rpr magnum barrels aren't the best. Mine certainly wasn't. The kreiger replacement I installed is a shooter.
I believe that further back in this thread is information about a new more durable hardened cocking cam offered by Anarchy Outdoors that is suppose to make it smoother.
That's what I heard and some of the reviews suggested that too. So I bought one from Anarchy Outdoors and installed it. Well . . . it really didn't improve bolt lift in any way for me. I reinstalled the original making a point to see if I could detect a difference. There was none.
It’s piece of mind knowing it’s billet machined instead of the stamped aluminum piece from ruger that’s been known to fail.
Yes . . . it's a well made cocking piece.
But one shouldn't count on it reducing bolt lift, as it may as reported by some or not like in my case.
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Yes . . . it's a well made cocking piece.
But one shouldn't count on it reducing bolt life, as it may as reported by some or not like in my case.
Is the bolt lift hard after a dry fire with an empty chamber?
I retract that question, I just went back and read that the OP was talking about bolt closure.
I've never had a issue with bolt closure as it's always been good with my RPR, and I didn't notice any change there either (probably because I just didn't have issue with that).
I put a light coat of grease on that cocking piece (Anarchy Outdoors / AD Arms variety) where it runs in the bolt and I found it was lighter in bolt manipulation feel vs the stock one also lubed.
I only mention this in case people are running them dry.. I think stock or AM they need a little lube.
I only mention this in case people are running them dry.. I think stock or AM they need a little lube.
Does anyone know where to buy a bolt (aftermarket, used or new OEM) for RPR? I am wanting to purchase a 6.5 PRC bolt to put in my 6.5 CM when I change barrels in the near future.
I have an RPR in 6.5 CM. Bought it to shoot out long-distance steel. I got it out to 1500 before the 6.5 CM dropped too much for my scope. I'm getting toward the end of the projected barrel life and would like to switch up to 6.5 PRC for a little more distance. Should just be a bolt and barrel change, however, Ruger told me they won't just sell the bolt.
I have an RPR in 6.5 CM. Bought it to shoot out long-distance steel. I got it out to 1500 before the 6.5 CM dropped too much for my scope. I'm getting toward the end of the projected barrel life and would like to switch up to 6.5 PRC for a little more distance. Should just be a bolt and barrel change, however, Ruger told me they won't just sell the bolt.
I'm not sure you can shoot the PRC out if the standard RPR. You may need the magnum one with a beefier action
From what I can tell the 6.5 PRC is the short action same as 6.5 CM. I know you can build a 6.5 PRC in a standard SA Remington 700 action. Maybe not with the RPR? I just wouldn't think it made financial sense to have a third action size just for the 6.5 PRC and from what I can see the 6.5 PRC is on the short action.
Has anyone shooting the RPR in 300WM found a particular bullet or grain weight that it prefers. I have a number of different bullets ranging from 175grs to 225grs to try, but my oppotunities for actual trigger time are very limited. I hope to eventually try all that I have, but for the time being, was just wondering if it shows a preference.
I don't believe this will work. I think the 6.5 PRC would require the magnum action.
Mine really loves the 208gr ELDMs at 2900 fps. Just bought some 220gr SMKs to play with and see if I can develop a good load.
Why do you think that is the case? It may be the case, idk. Ruger just told me they won't sell just an action or bolt, or even a barrel. Liability and engineering etc. I don't think any of the major manufacturers would do it, hence why I was asking here...
However, 6.5 PRC was designed to fit in a normal short action with a magnum bolt face. When I bought my Curtiss Custom, I purchased a short action and both a 308 and magnum bolt so I could shoot either round with one action. If Ruger's action won't fit a magnum bolt, It is hard to believe from a financial/tooling standpoint that they would design a short-action magnum action for this one caliber or are they making it on the long/magnum action?
What magazines is everyone having best luck with in their 6.5 CM RPRs? My Magpul AICS pattern arent working well for me. I have the AR10 pmags and they work pretty good but I was looking for some metal mags.
My son (age 16) who shoots the RPR (6.5CM) finds the metal AI magazines stiff/difficult in insert and extract, so prefers the standard plastic magazines. Although, we have just bought a single load sled (metal), which fits perfectly.
I just realized I was mistaken in what I posted. In my mind I was thinking the 300 PRC. Derp.
This is pretty interesting as I have the exact same experience with my Gen 2.
RPR trigger...I’ve been looking at and researching 2 stage triggers. My initial thought is I don’t think I would like them. But as I was shooting my RPR I realized that maybe I’m using the trigger safety take up to preload my finger on the trigger like I’ve heard people describe a two stage trigger. Anyone have experience with RPR trigger and a two stage trigger? Is a two stage anything like what I am doing with the RPR stock trigger?
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