thats how I understand it. you adjust the headspace and then tighten the nut and check go-nogo
Oh neat. Actually, how would you install a shouldered barrel? Do you just screw it in? Is a barrel nut easier?
But yeah, I'm just looking for options once I shoot my Tikka CTR barrel out. I'm eyeing the Criterion barrel due to price + barrel nut, but I'm definitely not set on it yet.
But yeah, I'm just looking for options once I shoot my Tikka CTR barrel out. I'm eyeing the Criterion barrel due to price + barrel nut, but I'm definitely not set on it yet.
Gotcha, thanks guys. Looks like I might consider the barrel nuts since honestly I'm not a good enough shooter to make use of the extra precision a gunsmith fitted shouldered barrel would have. The PVA option looks really cheap too, $40 barrel nut and wrench and a $350-400 barrel.
Oh neat, is that a PVA or Criterion or what?
Ah, interesting. On PVA's site I see some options for $375 + barrel nut though.
1. That's a sale with limited selection.
2. Those are button rifled, not cut rifled.
3. You didn't select a threaded muzzle, which would raise the price.
Not saying those are bad things, but that's the price discrepancy. A cut rifled prefit from PVA with threaded muzzle is about 650.
And my barrel is a Criterion spun up by Tim at Solid Accuracy.
I like it quite a bit. Quality is good - similar to a McMillan or Manners. Mesa was great to work with. I don't think there are many sporter-barrel, CTR bottom metal inlet ones out there. The stock is very similar to Manners EH1s that I've had, although I think the grip is slightly beefier than the Manners.
I've got 2 of the Mesa stocks right now, and would certainly consider another when the time comes.
FWIW, with the sporter barrel inlet, mine came it at 29 oz.
The barrel nut systems are plenty accurate. These are 200 yard load development groups with the Preferred Barrel Blanks variable shoulder (barrel nut) barrel on the rifle I posted above.
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Thanks man!
Ah, gotcha. Thanks for the explanation. Would cut be a lot more precise than button?
My understanding is that button rifling is much faster and easier to produce, which is why they are cheaper. As for the accuracy merits of one vs the other...it seems to be debatable. Do some research, it's been discussed on here.
Personally, I don't have enough hands on experience to form an opinion. Sorry.
Yeah, I already did a lot of reading on it both here and elsewhere and there's a lot of conflicting information so I wasn't sure. I think the general opinion seems to be that they can both be precise, at least precise enough for my uses anyways.
does anyone have any experience with these ctr 5 round mags?
www.berettausa.com
Tikka T3 Compact Tactical Rifle Magazine 308 Win 260 Rem 5 RD
Tikka T3 Compact Tactical Rifle Magazine 308 Win 260 Rem 5 RD
They are the exact same size as the 10 round but with a spacer block to hold only five rounds.....does anyone have any experience with these ctr 5 round mags?
Tikka T3 Compact Tactical Rifle Magazine 308 Win 260 Rem 5 RD
Tikka T3 Compact Tactical Rifle Magazine 308 Win 260 Rem 5 RD
can the block be removed.
Why not just buy 10rnd mags?
It's made out of steel and and spot welded in at the front of the mag.
Compared to the 10 the 5 is a pain in the ass to just get the follower and spring out because it uses the same spring and there is not enough wiggle room and the spring binds like hell.....
Here are pictures of the Modified CZ Fireball magazines. Tikka CTR 223 magazine and MDT AI 223 magazine for comparison.
Just installed the Jet Blast brake.
Counting down the days until the Whiskey 3 and Vortex show up. What are you guys using for torque specs on the action screws? The manual calls for 65 in/lb but I've seen some conflicting input saying the gun performs better at 35-40 in/lb. Thanks for the input!
Counting down the days until the Whiskey 3 and Vortex show up. What are you guys using for torque specs on the action screws? The manual calls for 65 in/lb but I've seen some conflicting input saying the gun performs better at 35-40 in/lb. Thanks for the input!
35-40 in-lb is advised for the FACTORY plastic stock...because if you over tighten it and splay the stock, you're doneski from an accuracy standpoint. I've run mine at factory spec and I've run it at 35 in-lb...not sure I noticed a difference...in performance, honestly...probably inside my abilities. It's not a concern for something like the W-3.
Hi all, new to the hide and just purchased a new Tikka T3X Lite D-18 Rifle .308 that I have not taken possession of yet. In the meantime I wanted to order a mount and my scope- I was looking at a Spuhr ST-4701: TRG 34mm Mount 7MIL/24MOA - 1.378" and wanted to ask the crew on here if that made sense and seemed like a great mount? It seems crazy expensive but I have heard good things? I had read earlier on here that the Tikka came with a factory dovetail and so it should fit right on there?
I also saw one a mount that looked useful with a bubble level, not sure who makes- any thoughts on those? do you guys use a bubble level?
lastly I saw the game reaper mounts which seem way less expensive but still good quality? but disadvantage for this is no 20 Moa
I will be using it for some long range shooting maxed at 1,000 yards and hunting.
My scope will be a Nightforce ATACR 5-25 F1 which is 34mm. Thanks
I also saw one a mount that looked useful with a bubble level, not sure who makes- any thoughts on those? do you guys use a bubble level?
lastly I saw the game reaper mounts which seem way less expensive but still good quality? but disadvantage for this is no 20 Moa
I will be using it for some long range shooting maxed at 1,000 yards and hunting.
My scope will be a Nightforce ATACR 5-25 F1 which is 34mm. Thanks
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Anyone know if SAUM cases feed in the std plastic Tikka LA magazine?
Bought a tikka 20" ctr 6.5cm I was wondering how much weight I could save by switching to a need stock or chassis.
Not going to save any weight, almost every stock or chassis out there will weigh more than the factory stock.
Only ones lighter would be a carbon stock with a fixed comb and even then your weight saving will only be a few ounces at most. The factory stock is pretty light as is.
I took the plunge and ordered a CTR 6.5 last week. Should have it Thursday. I already have a XLR chassis to put it in so im pretty stoked. I have a couple of questions regarding the factory CTR stock. I also have a T3X Lite in 6.5. Will my Lite action fit in the CTR stock? Also, is the CTR stock heavier than a factory Lite stock? Thanks!
Thanks!
Is anybody other than Black Label bipod making a handguard for the tikka tac a1? Looking to pick up a Tac A1 chassis for one of my actions and would love a hanguard similar to the geissele mk18.
Alternatively is there any interest out there from Tikka Tac A1 owners to see something like this come to the market? Wondering if it’s an idea we could take and see if someone could bring it to life. Thinking a handguard that’s a bit longer with build in arca on the bottom side. Pic of 16 inch geissele mk18 for reference.
Alternatively is there any interest out there from Tikka Tac A1 owners to see something like this come to the market? Wondering if it’s an idea we could take and see if someone could bring it to life. Thinking a handguard that’s a bit longer with build in arca on the bottom side. Pic of 16 inch geissele mk18 for reference.
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Honestly, that Night Force will likely make it to 1000 w/o any fancy mounting cant...even with a .308. That being said...
DNZ mounts are made just up the road from where I used to live in NC. I've never had any QA/QC issues with them at all, they stood up fine to the 7mm RM I ran them on.
I have a Spuhr 4701 from Mile High sitting on my KRG SOTIC right now. My only gripe is that I've got it as far forward on the receiver as it'll go and, frankly, and the scope all the way forward in the mount. Definitely worth checking to see if you've got the eye relief you need...or, buy from someone that'll take it back without hassle if it doesn't work for you. I use a SIG Tango6 4-24x50mm on that rifle for sake of comparison...not sure what your eye relief is like on the NF.
All Tikka actions are the same. Bottom metal and magazines vary. Lite action will fit in the CTR but with a gap. Better to unscrew the comb from your CTR stock and screw onto your Lite stock. Pretty much same thing. Can also swap to the vertical grip while you are at it. Then it will weight the same as the original CTR stock.
But I couldnt use the CTR mags in that configuration, correct?
Another question for the group. Can anyone recommend some good muzzle brake options for a 6.5 CTR? I saw some mentioned previously, but I only remember the Area 419 Hellfire. Other suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you Just what I was looking for. Been looking and it actually is decently light. The barrel and action must hold all the weight. I understand and accept the route I took just want to cut as much weight for the field as possible now. 7.5lb gun need to light on scope and bipod add can shouldn't be too bad
Correct
If you want to use the ctr mags you need to put it in the ctr stock.
And you will have to remove the magazine retainer clip from the lites trigger housing the ctr does not use it.
I use an PVA Jetblast and it seems fine but like someone said, most any brake will do.
On the cheaper side of things, I use a Rex Silentium S-Type (previously known as custom muzzle brakes) that can be had new for $35, made in the US. Got it on ebay for less last year.
Do they make one in 6.5 and 5/8x24? Don’t see one anywhere.
They just list it now as being for 7.62mm bore or smaller. I have one on my 6.5CTR and my 20" 223 AR. I like them both, for the $$ anyway.
If you want the highest level of recoil reduction out of a brake, consider SJC titan.
RELENTLESSLY QUIET Silencer Suppressor build a silencer
The S-Type Compact Tactical Muzzle Brake is designed for minimal weight, minimal added length and maximum performance. Recoil and muzzle rise are roundly mitigated in this humble yet dignified 3 ounce package. The USA sourced hardened steel will live up to the harshest treatment and conditions...
rexsilentium.com 
They must be out of 5/8x24. Thanks for the suggestion.They just list it now as being for 7.62mm bore or smaller. I have one on my 6.5CTR and my 20" 223 AR. I like them both, for the $$ anyway.
If you want the highest level of recoil reduction out of a brake, consider SJC titan.
RELENTLESSLY QUIET Silencer Suppressor build a silencer
The S-Type Compact Tactical Muzzle Brake is designed for minimal weight, minimal added length and maximum performance. Recoil and muzzle rise are roundly mitigated in this humble yet dignified 3 ounce package. The USA sourced hardened steel will live up to the harshest treatment and conditions...
I hear the Hellfire is pretty obnoxious. How bad is it?
i'm sure it's bad for folks shooting beside you. i wear elec muffs when at the range and hunting, and no issues at all with my hellfire. it does a great job at mitigating recoil (300wsm).
It's amazing for the shooter. On my 20" CTR barrel in .308 it definitely sucked for anyone in a 10ft radius. Blew my sunglasses off the bench a few times. I will still keep buying them, the gas has to go somewhere and they work awesome.
Upgraded my chassis over black friday. Now I have Arca rails, but no Arca clamp.
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Hello again, another newbie question.
I’m having issues with installing a sterk swept bolt handle into a CTR bolt. The new handle slips into the bolt channel fine but I’m having issues getting the firing pin assembly to engage into the bolt handle’s rounded channel. This seems to be keeping the tab at the end of the firing pin assembly from engaging into the bolt end shroud. Wondering if anyone has any advice.
Cheers,
A.
I’m having issues with installing a sterk swept bolt handle into a CTR bolt. The new handle slips into the bolt channel fine but I’m having issues getting the firing pin assembly to engage into the bolt handle’s rounded channel. This seems to be keeping the tab at the end of the firing pin assembly from engaging into the bolt end shroud. Wondering if anyone has any advice.
Cheers,
A.
