My personal vote, just realizing your other question, is to look into the XLR stocks. I found them to have a much wider range of LOP adjustments and be more comfortable all around. Get a bubble level that just mounts to your optic. Handguard with integrated arca is a great choice. Firing pin I would pass on. If you want to change the cocking piece that’s a good idea, I had 2 of mine fail on the original bolts within the first 2000 or so firings on either bolt (I have a backup) The new billets are holding much longer, around 3000 so far on one.
My personal vote, just realizing your other question, is to look into the XLR stocks. I found them to have a much wider range of LOP adjustments and be more comfortable all around. Get a bubble level that just mounts to your optic. Handguard with integrated arca is a great choice. Firing pin I would pass on. If you want to change the cocking piece that’s a good idea, I had 2 of mine fail on the original bolts within the first 2000 or so firings on either bolt (I have a backup) The new billets are holding much longer, around 3000 so far on one.
All - i have considered much, but I'm ready to make a decision on my introductory rifle. It will be the Ruger Precision Rifle in .308 Win. I'm hoping to make the main purchase within the next month or two, and then the optic for it a month thereafter (I'm looking at both a Leupold and/or Vortex scope in the $900.00 range).
The greater question for me, now, is "what accessories/options?" Just how much should I "pimp my RPR?"I definitely want the Timiney 2 stage trigger group and, maybe, one of the Catalyst Arms Enhanced Bolt Knob (something with a little more grip on it). What other accessories are worth pursuing, including:
Do these things make an actual difference or are they just "window dressing?" Which options would you select?
- Anarchy Outdoors Titanium bolt shroud;
- MAGPUL MOE+ PRS Stock
- MAGPUL Pistol Grip (I that on my home built AR-15;
- Catalyst Arms Mag release Extension;
- Anarchy Heat Treated firing pin;
- Catalyst Arms Fast track Handguard Allows me to slide the bipod back and forth/
- Anarchy Scope base with bubble level;
Thanks much!
RPR .308 IN DA HOUSE!
Initial impressions -
1) The hand guard seems a little sharp on the edges. I was thinking of a verticle grip, but I could also use a bipod and shoot it seated and prone.
2) My top Rail is not as long (does not extend over the HG), but long enough to mount the scope.
3) I'll find out if my current HG allows me to mount a bipod.
Otherwise, all is well with it. I'm now looking at a bi-pod and the scope... maybe also the trigger. Then I'll be ready to zero it in... And I'll consider a JTAC membership at that time.
But we're on our way!
Should have been a keymod pic rail for the bipod with it. If missing they are still cheap and available. Or go keymod to Arca if are planning for that.RPR .308 IN DA HOUSE!
Initial impressions -
1) The hand guard seems a little sharp on the edges. I was thinking of a verticle grip, but I could also use a bipod and shoot it seated and prone.
2) My top Rail is not as long (does not extend over the HG), but long enough to mount the scope.
3) I'll find out if my current HG allows me to mount a bipod.
Otherwise, all is well with it. I'm now looking at a bi-pod and the scope... maybe also the trigger. Then I'll be ready to zero it in... And I'll consider a JTAC membership at that time.
But we're on our way!
I believe there is. And it also comes with the Allen Key.
Quick question - I'm having a little trouble getting the bolt to remove completely, now. I open the butt stock to remove it, but when I try to get it past the exit point there, it sticks (or appears to be blocked). Is there something I need to do (or some position at which it exits completely)?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Are you pushing the little bolt release button on the side of the action?
I am pushing the one that makes the stock fold open, yes. That works fine. I'm then pulling the bolt back to where the end of the shroud is flush to the opening, but that's as far as it goes. Something is preventing it from going further. The sticking point appears to be at the front of the bolt near the locking key that holds the front of the firing pin.
If there's a different release button, I don't see it anywhere.
Read the manual that came with it.
Diagram is on page 11 for the newer one:
Actually, it was page 38 for my book. But thank you. I got it to release fully.
Final total weight?
Interesting build. I am considering something somewhat similar.
How does she shoot?
My .308 RPR likes 168 Sierra HPBT's so far. Haven't tried anything else yet for accuracy. I am not the best shot yet, I am learning to deal with
my natural body shakes, however, the RPR's are accurate. I have a Sightron SIII 8x32x56 with the MOA-2 reticle mounted on it.
I bought a 100 of the new 169 gr Sierras to try.
This is at 200 yards.
my natural body shakes, however, the RPR's are accurate. I have a Sightron SIII 8x32x56 with the MOA-2 reticle mounted on it.
I bought a 100 of the new 169 gr Sierras to try.
This is at 200 yards.
Mine likes the FGMM 175 gr. This is a 5 shot group at 100 yards.
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So who is jumping on the new 6mm RPR?
Ruger Precision® Rifle Bolt-Action Rifle Model 18085
www.ruger.com
The gen 4 (?) 6mm RPR looks like a purpose built production class PRS competition rifle. It is priced right at the limits of the class.
tag
On a whim I pinged Trigger Tech as to availability of the new RPR trigger to the aftermarket (that would be all of us), vs just providing it to Ruger for their fancy new 6CM.
Answer came this morning:
Our OEM RPR trigger is ready, but we are still in R&D for the aftermarket ones.
We hope to release both the RPR and RPR Rim fire triggers this year.
The centerfire should be launched this summer, and the rim fire before the end of the year if all goes well.
I'd like to be first on the list, please....
Answer came this morning:
Our OEM RPR trigger is ready, but we are still in R&D for the aftermarket ones.
We hope to release both the RPR and RPR Rim fire triggers this year.
The centerfire should be launched this summer, and the rim fire before the end of the year if all goes well.
I'd like to be first on the list, please....
FWIW Anarchy Outdoors was asking for interest in a group buy on his Facebook page. It's been a few months but may be worth checking in with him.
I've been in the market for a 308 bolt action. I sold all of my custom built rifles to fund a couple of home improvement projects and now I'm looking fill that void in my safe. It looks like I can get a new Gen 3 308 for around $1350 or a used Gen 3 in a different caliber for about $1000, then have the barrel swapped to a 308 for another $750 or so.
I have a couple of questions for those on this thread:
How are the factory barrels compared to replacement barrels (for those who have upgraded their rifles)?
All things being equal in after market barrels, is the platform capable of comparable accuracy as a re-barreled R700, Savage, Tikka etc.?
I have a couple of questions for those on this thread:
How are the factory barrels compared to replacement barrels (for those who have upgraded their rifles)?
All things being equal in after market barrels, is the platform capable of comparable accuracy as a re-barreled R700, Savage, Tikka etc.?
I bought a Gen2 308 with a plan to swap the barrel to 6.5 after shooting it for a while.
I'm still shooting the factory barrel, 3+ yrs later. Every time I start thinking about swapping out the barrel, I leave it alone because it still shoots great, just seems like a waste of money. No, it isn't a Bartlein or Krieger (or any other custom). The factory barrel is probably slower, and I'm confident the after market customs would shoot even tighter. But if the ammo is solid and I do my part, the rifle shoots just fine. Hard to beat for the money I spent.
I'm still shooting the factory barrel, 3+ yrs later. Every time I start thinking about swapping out the barrel, I leave it alone because it still shoots great, just seems like a waste of money. No, it isn't a Bartlein or Krieger (or any other custom). The factory barrel is probably slower, and I'm confident the after market customs would shoot even tighter. But if the ammo is solid and I do my part, the rifle shoots just fine. Hard to beat for the money I spent.
Can you do a heavier profile on an aftermarket barrel compared to the stock barrel?
Good to hear. I would either buy the rifle used for less money and swap barrels or spend about $400 more for a new stock 308. No sure what the lead times would be on a new barrel.
The Krieger I bought was 2" longer and a heavier profile.
As far as lead times, a lot of places carry barrels for them, its a matter if they are in stock or not.
Did you install it yourself? I don't know if I would want to attempt that.
The only 'shootability' stuff I've done is a trigger spring swap (still factory trigger, now at 1 lb), an AD Arms billet cocking piece for the bolt, and a MPA vertical grip. Also recently added an Area 419 Arca rail, for attachment options & fore/aft adjustment. Otherwise, factory gun.
Oh, and an APA LB Gen 3 muzzle brake - really helps with muzzle rise.
Oh, and an APA LB Gen 3 muzzle brake - really helps with muzzle rise.
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Long Rifles Inc will spin you up a barrel in your caliber of choice, and if you don't want to mess with it, you can send them the barreled action & they'll install it for $100. A bargain. Buying the headspace gauges alone will cost you the better part of that 100.
That's easy. I'm a big fan of paying smart people to do things.
I have a Gen2 and have had it for over 3 yrs now. The factory barrel shot sub .75 MOA out of the box with factory ammo like Federal Premium Match cartridges' with 168 and 175 SMK's. With my precision handloads I was getting sub .50 MOA's. Though it was shooting fine after 3,700 rounds, I got a Krieger barrel as a birthday gift, so that's when I swapped it out and did it myself. It was an easy thing to do for someone that is mechanically inclined.
When dealing with anybody's factory barrel, you're dealing with a crapshoot. You might get a really good barrel or you might get one that doesn't quite do all that well. So, just be aware.
This first Krieger barrel would shoot in the .3's and better some times with my handloads. After 5,500 rounds I started to get surprise flyers, so I just recently mounted a new Krieger barrel (the heavy one). I don't have very many rounds through it yet, but it seems to be shooting better than the previous Krieger barrel.
As far as accuracy goes, yes. But something like a Tikka has a nicer action, IMHO.
I'm so satisfied with my .308 RPR, I've just recently purchased a 6.5 PRC RPR. Now if I can only find some brass for it.
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That's very impressive. For the price, I really don't see a better option. I shot a few of them and I was surprised how nice the trigger was.I have a Gen2 and have had it for over 3 yrs now. The factory barrel shot sub .75 MOA out of the box with factory ammo like Federal Premium Match cartridges' with 168 and 175 SMK's. With my precision handloads I was getting sub .50 MOA's. Though it was shooting fine after 3,700 rounds, I got a Krieger barrel as a birthday gift, so that's when I swapped it out and did it myself. It was an easy thing to do for someone that is mechanically inclined.
When dealing with anybody's factory barrel, you're dealing with a crapshoot. You might get a really good barrel or you might get one that doesn't quite do all that well. So, just be aware.
This first Krieger barrel would shoot in the .3's and better some times with my handloads. After 5,500 rounds I started to get surprise flyers, so I just recently mounted a new Krieger barrel (the heavy one). I don't have very many rounds through it yet, but it seems to be shooting better than the previous Krieger barrel.
As far as accuracy goes, yes. But something like a Tikka has a nicer action, IMHO.
I'm so satisfied with my .308 RPR, I've just recently purchased a 6.5 PRC RPR. Now if I can only find some brass for it.
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Apparently, a lot of people don't like that type of trigger. But I was very happy with mine. Even when I tried a Timney trigger, I didn't really find any difference, other than the feel of the blade and that's never bothered me at all. For my factory trigger, I did remove the trigger tension adjustment spring in order to get the pull down to 12-14 oz, which is where I like my triggers to be for my bolt guns.
BTW: When I bought my .308, I got if for $1,025 and my recent 6.5 PRC purchase for $1,050 (both being new). Got both of them from GunBroker.com where I got my .308 with no shipping, tax or credit card fee, but the 6.5 PRC purchase added all that winding up for a total of $1,220 out the door.
Note, that 1st Krieger barrel was the 24" with muzzle diameter of .750 and the new one that's on it now is the 26" .900 muzzle diameter one. If or when you contemplate a barrel upgrade for a RPR, I don't think you can go wrong with a Krieger barrel.
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I’ve read some and just making sure I’m not missing something. I want a .243 for coyote hunting, and used RPR seems to be the best host for what I want to do. Since they don’t make them anymore, is it right thats I can get away with swapping .308/6mm/6.5 creedmore with the .243 barrel assuming I get the gauges and other tooling?
I had a lightly used 26" Bartlein on my 6 Creed for awhile but started to see some serious firecracking. Twisted on a Proof CF a couple weeks ago. Haven't had much time to tune a load buy did take it out to 1000 and seemed like I'm going to be pleased.
For coyote hunting, I think a carbon fiber barrel from Proof Research would be an excellent choice, as it would reduce the weight of the RPR, which is typically heavy anyway.
I shoot off a tripod and most of our stands aren’t a crazy walk. I figured it was going to be heavy. Plan to put a carbon barrel on to reduce some weight
As I’ve quickly learned, coyote hunting has already severely lightened my wallet lol. RPR seems to be the cheapest quality option to get me in a .243 chassis style rig other than the Thompson center LRR but the reviews seem too hit or miss on them
I have a gen II in 6mmCM and am considering selling it. Shoots like a laser, just too heavy to be practical for anything outside a few yard walk to a bench. For carrying into the field I have a very capable 308 rig that gets the job done nicely and weighs only 2/3 as much as the RPR.
Putting the RPR on a diet and weight loss program is an interesting project but not to the tune of doubling the money I have in it.
PM me details
I used the think my 6.5CM RPR was heavy too...then I bought a 338LM RPR!
I don't think "hunting" was in mind by Ruger when developing the RPR. 
Got out to the range the other day, 6/13/21, and got to zero my scope finally after all the Covid BS shutdowns, using only every other point, etc, etc. here in New Mexico but here are a couple of pictures of my target. The 0.48" and the 0.76" were shot about ten minutes apart using Prime Ammo 115gr 6mm Creedmoor and the 0.55" was shot with Sig Sauer OTM Match Grade 107gr and this isn't too bad considering I'm getting started with this at 70yrs old! I have a RPR 3rd Gen 6mm Creedmoor with an adjustable bag rider and bag and just ordered a MPA vertical grip to try and improve my consistency with the trigger pull. Also have a Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x scope.
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Yes, but I am a more mechanical background. Some basic hand tools, armor's wrench, barrel vise and some go/no-go gages and you are set, but if you do not feel comfortable doing it I would let a smith handle it.
It would be cheaper for me to pay to have it done. The tools alone would be about double the cost.
Perhaps . . . and especially if it's only going to be one time.
For ~$125, I got a Barrel Vise, a cheap Armor's Wrench and a Go Gauge. I've recently put on my third barrel, so I find it worth it. And if I should find I don't need the tools any more, I can sell them and recoup some of the of cost.
Have any of you turned your RPR into an NRL Hunter gun? I know Kristy Titus was posting all over facebook about running hers in a shoot but wasnt sure if there were others. I got mine with the goal of shooting PRS but having a hard time making it to any local club matches. Posts above had me thinking about rebarreling it and trying to cut a little weight and make it a little better suited to field style matches.
Triggertech has the RPR trigger up on their site listed as coming soon -
https://triggertech.com/collections/bolt-action/products/ruger-precision-rifle
It looks like there will be two options with an MSRP of $225.
https://triggertech.com/collections/bolt-action/products/ruger-precision-rifle
It looks like there will be two options with an MSRP of $225.
Anarchy outdoors mentioned another couple weeks and he may be doing the pre-order
Has anyone successfully fitted an RPR rail to a standard AR upper? I have a couple of the old Keymod rails laying around and a couple of receivers needing rails… quick glance shows that the Ruger nut does not have clearance for a gas tube, but figured there might be a way to get them to work.
