Gen 1 clamps right on AR15. Well it did on mine.
I did with a Gen1 rail setup. It went together with no issues.
I believe I have the Gen 2 rails but I’m guessing they should work the same. I’ll have to look at it a little more. Thanks for the info.
Threw together a quick video on my 300 PRC ruger precision rifle. Little bit of shooting at 2000 yds! Love this rifle.
Right on! That’s pretty cool. Love my 6.5 RPR. Haven’t played with the 223 enough to know either way. always kinda had the itch to get into a magnum. I figure if I decide to go that way I’ll start with a RPR maybe 338.
Progress Update: I have begun the upgrades to my RPR in .308. I have successfully updated the HG (replaced with the Catalyst Arms "Arca" rail), the butt stock (with the Magpul PRS3), and the Catalyst Arms Extended release tab. The Timney 2 stage trigger is "in progress" because they don't tell you that you have to take some parts out of the original factory trigger and put them into the Timney Trigger before you install it. 
One of those parts is a very tiny e-clip that goes flying and gets bent out of shape. And, apparently, it's the only one of its size needed for the pin. Well, Amazon to the rescue for that. Now I have bought a 300pc. eclip set. I don't understand why Timney didn't just supply the parts to go with it Perhaps, because the trigger can fit many different models and they can't supply those parts for all the different models. Uggggghhh.
I also had some issues installing the updated Titanium bolt shroud on the bolt. I think the supplied mfgr. bolt is a little different. Either that, or I need the "mangum" size bolt shroud that is a little longer. But I can tell the bolt clip (see below)
is a little different in re: how it's portrayed in the ads for the replacement bolt shroud. The titanium replacement bolt shroud is just too short to fit. So, I either need the magnum bolt shroud, or I need to have Anarchy Outdoors machine the one I have so that it will fit. But for now, I'll leave the factory shroud in place.
I've also come to notice that you have to be very careful with "tolerances" in re: the lower receiver, lest there be problems getting the bolt to go back into battery and pulling it back to extract (it gets stuck). But I will keep the bolt oiled (to a degree) and ensure the channel stays clean.
I'll check back in after I get the Timney trigger settled.
One of those parts is a very tiny e-clip that goes flying and gets bent out of shape. And, apparently, it's the only one of its size needed for the pin. Well, Amazon to the rescue for that. Now I have bought a 300pc. eclip set. I don't understand why Timney didn't just supply the parts to go with it Perhaps, because the trigger can fit many different models and they can't supply those parts for all the different models. Uggggghhh. I also had some issues installing the updated Titanium bolt shroud on the bolt. I think the supplied mfgr. bolt is a little different. Either that, or I need the "mangum" size bolt shroud that is a little longer. But I can tell the bolt clip (see below)
I've also come to notice that you have to be very careful with "tolerances" in re: the lower receiver, lest there be problems getting the bolt to go back into battery and pulling it back to extract (it gets stuck). But I will keep the bolt oiled (to a degree) and ensure the channel stays clean.
I'll check back in after I get the Timney trigger settled.
If you go look on their site you can see they updated their design.
Yes, they did. And the cannibalization is actually written in the instructions, now.
I see on there site where it tells you Remove the cocking piece guide, J-slot spring, pin and E-clip and reinstall each component your Timney trigger. but are those parts just scares so Timney doesn't supply them any more or is there more other differences than my two year old trigger and thanks for pointing that out to me
My guess is that the trigger they supply is a bit more "generic" and applies to several different models. Therefore, those OG parts have to come from the original rifle's trigger itself. It's the only explanation I can comprehend. Otherwise, they should have supplied the parts in the trigger.
Hmmm??? I didn't have to do any of that with my Timney trigger when I installed in on my Gen 2 .308. It was easy just pulling the factory trigger out and sliding the Timney in and the single bolt to hold it in place like with the factory trigger.
I'm reaching out to you RPR owners to see if you can assist a friend that is having issues with one that is chambered in 300 WM.
He purchased it new, fired 12 shots, and on the last shot he could eject the case but the bolt will not go back into battery, even with an empty chamber. It gets hung up about 2" shy of going into the chamber.
Any thoughts?
He purchased it new, fired 12 shots, and on the last shot he could eject the case but the bolt will not go back into battery, even with an empty chamber. It gets hung up about 2" shy of going into the chamber.
Any thoughts?
anyone grab one of these yet and put it thru the matches?? considering dumping my 6.5CM AICS chassis set-up for this.
I’ve had my .308 RPR since 2016. It now has over 4200 rounds on it and will still shoot dimes at 100. Exceptional out to 1000 with 190 SMK on 42.5 gr varget. It shot a .177” 5 round group at 100 with Nosler custom competition 168 gr. I’ve thought of switching to 6.5 but with the longest ranges here ending at 1000, I have absolutely no need to.
That's a pretty strong endorsement. Good to here. I would like to do one with a 308 barrel cut back to 16"
Maybe someone here knows...
I've got a 6.5 PRC RPR that I'm not going to do anything with. Can the bolt face be modified to 308 cartridge size? Assuming the extractor might be an issue.
Can you buy a new bolt from Ruger?
I've got a 6.5 PRC RPR that I'm not going to do anything with. Can the bolt face be modified to 308 cartridge size? Assuming the extractor might be an issue.
Can you buy a new bolt from Ruger?
Update, after a little bit of effort, the Timney Trigger is installed and is functioning. Although, I don't feel the "two" stages. It just feels like only one very light stage. As light as a 1911 trigger, which I don't mind, actually. I just have to be ready for it.
Next issue... I'm still finding that the bolt sticks as it attempts to enter battery. I've oiled it reasonably (not too much) and it will go into battery (I can push the handle down and press the trigger), but when I lift the handle and attempt to pull it back, it sticks. I work it a little and seems to do better but I can't be sure something isn't right.
Any help with the bolt would be greatly appreciated. Nex steps are to mount the bipod to the HG, and then begin the process of mounting the scope. We'll see how that goes.
Next issue... I'm still finding that the bolt sticks as it attempts to enter battery. I've oiled it reasonably (not too much) and it will go into battery (I can push the handle down and press the trigger), but when I lift the handle and attempt to pull it back, it sticks. I work it a little and seems to do better but I can't be sure something isn't right.
Any help with the bolt would be greatly appreciated. Nex steps are to mount the bipod to the HG, and then begin the process of mounting the scope. We'll see how that goes.
My friend had this exact same issue, exact same caliber. It's already going back to Ruger.
No.
I have both the 6.5 PRC and the .308 and the 6.5 PRC bolt and the case's base rim on the PRC is much larger than the .308. The only thing that's interchangeable is the firing pin assembly, which I've tried and fired in my .308, and maybe the bolt shroud.
Getting a new .308 bolt for the 6.5 PRC rifle isn't going to work since the bolt dimensions are so much larger in the 6.5 PRC.
I figured. I didn't know if the receiver housing and the actual bolt head were the same size...like on a R700. Thanks for the info.
Here are my groups with my 6.5 RPR the green target is 100 with my Cold bore shot and then cooled for about 10min and then 4 at 600. It will does this in my not skimmed hands and these are normal groups not try all day groups.
Attachments
Update: Timney Trigger is now installed, after some effort. Biggest effort was getting the e-clip to seat. Still waiting on a couple more parts (adapter for the Harris bipod to the ARCA rail HG) and I discovered I needed "high" rings for the scope instead of low so I'm exchanging those. With the optical lens at 56mm, the low rings just aren't enough.
We'll see how things go.
We'll see how things go.
That’s a huge B***h! Picked up my new (to me) RPR yesterday as well as the proof .243 barrel. I think I’m going to swap the prs to a Seekins 10xray stock. Can’t decide on the handguard but should be a fun summer/fall project
You know she'll love you for it, it's the gift to her that gets you out of her hair some........just don't make the mistake I did and give her a vacuum cleaner!
You know better! This should be in PX!
Something similar happened to mine in 6.5 creedmoor. The bolt shroud came loose and the cocking piece de-cocked inside the receiver extension. I had to remove the butt-stock and remove the tube to get the bolt out and remedy the problem. At a match. Between stages...
It’s pretty RPR specific and barrels are posted here from time to time in case you don’t know… Anyone can feel free to move it if need be.
RPR 338 LM bolt problem (stuck in decocked position)
Hello, please excuse my bad english - i´m from germany :) Half a year ago i bought a RPR 338 LM. It shoots fine so far. after approx. 100 Rounds the following happened: round fired, bolt could be rotated but not pulled back. i thought okay...this must be a stuck case (i read about this...
www.snipershide.com Edit: wow quoted the wrong guy lol. This is for the people having de cocking issues
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Got bored waiting on my AT-X and .223 conversion so I figured I would fiddle around with this in the meantime.
RPR 556, added a vertical grip and the Catalyst rail. Topped with a spare USO TS20x. Shoots 75 ELDs and 80VLDs equally well. Super cheap and fun to shoot. I’ll give it the rattle can treatment when I find some time.
RPR 556, added a vertical grip and the Catalyst rail. Topped with a spare USO TS20x. Shoots 75 ELDs and 80VLDs equally well. Super cheap and fun to shoot. I’ll give it the rattle can treatment when I find some time.
Your scope seems mounted much further back than I'd expect.....6.5 Creedmoor
Yeah. It's just a test fit, I just unboxed all components this a.m.
Just added a 2nd RPR yesterday. 6.5 Creed. Have high hopes....
Likewise Carlos, I have high hope with my 2nd RPR (the other being the .308), which is a 6.5 PRC. Only 40 rounds down the barrel and still breaking it in.
I have some concern as upon inspecting the bore with borescope one of the lands was all the way to the freebore and the rest were quite a ways away. I called Ruger and they didn't seem to feel this was out of the ordinary and recommended I shoot it to see how is does and if there's any problem, then I might send it back to them.
I have some concern as upon inspecting the bore with borescope one of the lands was all the way to the freebore and the rest were quite a ways away. I called Ruger and they didn't seem to feel this was out of the ordinary and recommended I shoot it to see how is does and if there's any problem, then I might send it back to them.
Can you post a pic that that? I’d like to see it, doesn’t sound right.
It's difficult to get perspective with still pics (much easier to see with video) as I can't get the short lands in the view along with the edge of the freebore at the second shoulder junction. That junction is out of sight at the bottom of the mirror. (where it looks like the freebore at the top of the mirror, pay no attention to it as it's a weird reflection)
These two pics each of different short lands that doesn't reach the freebore
These two pics are of the same lands (left of the light reflection) and you can see is extends down to the freebore.
I’ve got one RPR handguard that’s really loose. I know a lot of you have replaced yours. If someone has an extra sitting around, send me a message.
I have a Gen 1 RPR 6.5 CM NIB. Is there enough difference to try to trade my Gen 1 for a Gen 2 or Gen 3? I have a APA little bastard Gen 3 MB, so I do not need that. I like 6.5CM and have factory ammo, brass, powder, bullets, and primers.
Not to me, no.
This advice is for any rifle. If your rifle is a shooter and you are satisfied with the accuracy or better still, impressed with the accuracy Never Ever trade it off for something “better.” If its not broke, don’t fix it.
Likewise
If your rifle is not shooting to your satisfaction, or worse, is jsut plainly not consistent and/or not accurate despite Reasonable experimentation, Never Ever keep throwing money at it. Get rid of it and try to find something that will shoot the way you want it too.
APA brake is easily added, I did and I love mine. Trigger Tech will release their upgrade for the RPR very soon, can easily be swapped. There is a new heavy contour barrel that's different than the normal RPR, but a barrel can be swapped as well. The rest of it is mostly cosmetic, I'd say. If I didn't already have one I might consider the new one with the goodies, but I won't be replacing mine any time soon.
Thank you all for the useful information.
PM sent.
Update - Finally, the Range Report on the new RPR.
Well, it went BANG! Quite well. I have a lot to learn in re: using it. First things first. I have to get a handle on the eye relief. A bit complicated as I have a 1.25 diopter astigmatism in the Rt. Eye. I correct it with glasses, which is what I was using today. That, and futzing around with my ball cap. Ugggghh. I may start "prone" until I can get things going.
A huge thanks to @Mike Casselton and @8pointer who I met for the first time, today, for helping me get started. I will be learning a lot from them. I'll also be taking the JTAC "Long Range 101" course in September, but I'll be practicing a lot before that. I'll try to get down there as much as I can.
Thanks guys!
Well, it went BANG! Quite well. I have a lot to learn in re: using it. First things first. I have to get a handle on the eye relief. A bit complicated as I have a 1.25 diopter astigmatism in the Rt. Eye. I correct it with glasses, which is what I was using today. That, and futzing around with my ball cap. Ugggghh. I may start "prone" until I can get things going.
A huge thanks to @Mike Casselton and @8pointer who I met for the first time, today, for helping me get started. I will be learning a lot from them. I'll also be taking the JTAC "Long Range 101" course in September, but I'll be practicing a lot before that. I'll try to get down there as much as I can.
Thanks guys!
First session with my RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor. I'm super pleased with how well it shoots.
It's my first precision rifle.
first 3 shots, using Norma 130gr @100yds:
(tip of car key for reference)
7 round group after getting it zeroed:
(the flyer was on me, I twitched)
5 round group with Hornady 143 gr.
It's my first precision rifle.
first 3 shots, using Norma 130gr @100yds:
(tip of car key for reference)
7 round group after getting it zeroed:
(the flyer was on me, I twitched)
5 round group with Hornady 143 gr.
