Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

Leadslinger5

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Setup a 6.5 creedmoor RPR with the help of some local guys and this was my first range trip trying to make a load for it. One group is right at .500”. Going to see if I can match it tonight and then work from there. 3 rd shot groups @ 100 yds.

What I feel is working good for now is:

.020” off the lands oal is 2.790”
43.0 gns of h4350
120 gn Barnes match burners
Hornady brass with cci 200 primers
 

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Wiillk

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When supply lines lighten up, you might want to try some heavier bullets as well. Mine goes bonkers over both Hornady 143ELD-X’s and 144 Berger Hybrids. (Bonkers in a good way)
 
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Leadslinger5

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Tightened up my groups a little last night, I think most of it is the shooter. I did also get some 130 gn Sierra Nevada TMK’s and some 140 gn match burners. Might make a few with 140 gn and see how the perform. Thanks for the advice!
 

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mcbain1999

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I'd recommend a one piece mount. With a quality mount your rings are aligned perfectly and you don't need to worry about lapping, etc.
I'd also avoid Larue (tends to chew up your rail) and QD (are you really going to be swapping it between guns repeatedly during a range session?) since most brands struggle with return to zero. I highly recommend Spuhr. They're bombproof, and if you do need to remove it, it's only 4 bolts and they have excellent RTZ. Personally, I'd recommend a 4302 (10 moa incline) which would give you 30 moa total and help you maximize your elevation for as far as 6.5 can go. It's also 1.5" high to clear a handguard with full rail. You could also do a 4002 (0moa) to just use the 20moa in your rail if you not looking at taking it out as far, or even a 4602 (20moa) if you want to squeeze every last drop of elevation out of that scope (it will handle it, though you might loose a little optical clarity that far from center).
As far as a bipod, you can't go wrong with Atlas.
I'd probably avoid to 5H at least initially, it's a great bipod, but a lot bigger and more expensive than you probably need. I'd stick with a CAL Gen2 like straightshooter posted if you don't need/want the ability to pan (move side to side) or a PRS (bt46) model like I run if you like that feature.
I hope this helps!
Thanks for this breakdown of the spuhr mounts. I think I am going to go with one of the spuhrs and save a bit of money on the bipod. Excuse my ignorance of math but what are the avg distance range for the 4002 mount with 0 MOA and the 4302 with 10 MOA?

Because of where I live, I will mostly be shooting 300 or less yds and don't have any options of 1000yd ranges without driving a few hours. I really want to be able to take my rpr out as far as it will go from time to time but if I get the 4302 mount with 10 MOA what will that do to my 300 yd and less shooting?

Thx
 

Jaron3

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Nothing. It will just give you a little more elevation adjustment in your scope.
 

Wiillk

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My 6.5 loves the 144 Berger Hybrids. out to 1000 4moa less than my Hornady 147 match
Both my 6.5’s shoot really great with bullets in the 143/144 gr range. Seems to be the sweet spot for my riles. Going to try different brands of 130’s next week, but it is hard to get away from 144 Bergers in the RPR and 144 Sierra Match Kings in the MPA Pro.
 

BU37377

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Is there no trade off? Why wouldn’t everyone just get the mount with 20 Moa?
I’m sure I’m missing something simple here.
The RPR already has 20 MOA built in the rail so no need for more unless you think you'll be shooting ELR or if your scope doesn't have much adjustment available.
 
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hdmunger

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Is there no trade off? Why wouldn’t everyone just get the mount with 20 Moa?
I’m sure I’m missing something simple here.
The trade off only comes when your total mounting MOA additive approaches or exceeds 1/2 of the total elevation range in your scope.

As an example, if your scope has 80 MOA of total internal elevation adjustment range, and you assume that a typical 100 yard zero would be in the middle of that range (with 0 MOA added by rail or mount), then you would have 40 MOA of 'up' adjustment and 40 MOA of 'down' adjustment. If you add 40 MOA with your mounting (20 MOA rail and 20 MOA mount), then you are transferring that 40 MOA from the 'down' side (which is generally useless) to the 'up' side of the adjustability of your scope where it is most useful.

Another example would be a scope with 100 MOA of elevation adjustment and that same 40 MOA of mount would take 40 from the 'down' side and add it to the 'up' side giving you 10 MOA of useless 'down' and 90 MOA of useful 'up'.

The problem with using the maximum mounting MOA add on is that puts your reticle at the zero setting nearer to the edge of the scopes lens and is not as optically clear as it would be closer to the center. The second example above would keep you 10 MOA (worth of internal travel) away from the edge of the optical limit.

Also, on a lot of scopes, you lose some windage adjustment when near the limits of vertical adjustment just because the reticle mechanicals are mounted inside of a round tube (at least that is my understanding of the reason for that loss).
 
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mcbain1999

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The trade off only comes when your total mounting MOA additive approaches or exceeds 1/2 of the total elevation range in your scope.

As an example, if your scope has 80 MOA of total internal elevation adjustment range, and you assume that a typical 100 yard zero would be in the middle of that range (with 0 MOA added by rail or mount), then you would have 40 MOA of 'up' adjustment and 40 MOA of 'down' adjustment. If you add 40 MOA with your mounting (20 MOA rail and 20 MOA mount), then you are transferring that 40 MOA from the 'down' side (which is generally useless) to the 'up' side of the adjustability of your scope where is is most useful.

Another example would be a scope with 100 MOA of elevation adjustment and that same 40 MOA of mount would take 40 from the 'down' side and add it to the 'up' side giving you 10 MOA of useless 'down' and 90 MOA of useful 'up'.

The problem with using the maximum mounting MOA add on is that puts your reticle at the zero setting nearer to the edge of the scopes lens and is not as optically clear as it would be closer to the center. The second example above would keep you 10 MOA (worth of internal travel) away from the edge of the optical limit.

Also, on a lot of scopes, you lose some windage adjustment when near the limits of vertical adjustment just because the reticle mechanicals are mounted inside of a round tube (at least that is my understanding of the reason for that loss).
Really appreciate all the information here. It's starting to make more sense. And here I thought math was all done after college.
The scope I'm waiting to receive is a vortex razor HD Gen 2 4.5x27x56 from Scott at liberty optics. Which spuhr mount would you suggest to balance optical clarity and shooting longer distances. The 4002 (0moa), 4302 (10 moa). It sounds like the 4602 (20moa) may be to much considering there is already 20 MOA on the rifle.
 

cgobeli

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Really appreciate all the information here. It's starting to make more sense. And here I thought math was all done after college.
The scope I'm waiting to receive is a vortex razor HD Gen 2 4.5x27x56 from Scott at liberty optics. Which spuhr mount would you suggest to balance optical clarity and shooting longer distances. The 4002 (0moa), 4302 (10 moa). It sounds like the 4602 (20moa) may be to much considering there is already 20 MOA on the rifle.
I would go with either the 0 moa or at most the 10 moa.
 
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BU37377

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Really appreciate all the information here. It's starting to make more sense. And here I thought math was all done after college.
The scope I'm waiting to receive is a vortex razor HD Gen 2 4.5x27x56 from Scott at liberty optics. Which spuhr mount would you suggest to balance optical clarity and shooting longer distances. The 4002 (0moa), 4302 (10 moa). It sounds like the 4602 (20moa) may be to much considering there is already 20 MOA on the rifle.
I've got the same scope and I've got the 4002 0 MOA SPUHR on mine. No problem with getting out to 1,000.
 

hdmunger

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I agree with both of the above. Either the 0 MOA or the 10 MOA would be more than adequate, but I would probably go with the 0 MOA in your situation (300 or less, occasionally out to 1000).

The existing 20 MOA rail will give you about 70 MOA of 'up' on that scope (looks like about 100 MOA of internal adjustment on that model), which is PLENTY to get you way beyond 1000 yards and keeps you closer to the optical center of the lens for the shorter distances you would mostly be shooting.
 
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mcbain1999

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I agree with both of the above. Either the 0 MOA or the 10 MOA would be more than adequate, but I would probably go with the 0 MOA in your situation (300 or less, occasionally out to 1000).

The existing 20 MOA rail will give you about 70 MOA of 'up' on that scope (looks like about 100 MOA of internal adjustment on that model), which is PLENTY to get you way beyond 1000 yards and keeps you closer to the optical center of the lens for the shorter distances you would mostly be shooting.
Is there a "sweepspot" correlation for this particular setup with the Vortex Gen 2 Hd 4.5x27x56.

Something like:
0 MOA - best between 100-1200yds
10 MOA best between 300 - 1800yds
 

hdmunger

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Is there a "sweepspot" correlation for this particular setup with the Vortex Gen 2 Hd 4.5x27x56.

Something like:
0 MOA - best between 100-1200yds
10 MOA best between 300 - 1800yds
You should always zero at 100 yards (imo). If your hunting and want your scope 'zeroed' at say 200 yards, then just dial the scope to the 200 yard setting and leave it there while you hunt.

As far as 0 MOA vs. 10 MOA, go to the following link, select your bullet from the drop down list at the top, enter your muzzle velocity and any other information you think pertinent (I suggest setting longest range to 2000 yards so you can see where you go subsonic) and then hit 'Calculate'. This should give you a good idea of the effective range of your bullet...you'll see that 70 MOA is plenty, but if you think 80 MOA of 'up' would be better, then there's your answer.

 

Cardboard Assassin

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well this is mine. ibi barrel, timney 2 stage trigger, magpul stock and grip, burris mount, vortix strike eagle. scope

Nice gun, the fluting looks awesome.

The barrel on my RPR is pretty much shot out so I'm gonna be picking up an IBI - is that the heavier contour?

How does it shoot?
 

sifer0425

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Nice gun, the fluting looks awesome.

The barrel on my RPR is pretty much shot out so I'm gonna be picking up an IBI - is that the heavier contour?

How does it shoot?
yes it is. shoots good still having a bit of trouble with load development. have been using 140gr eld match with h4350. but ran into trouble today with pressure issuses. so had to stop. was at 41gr of h4350 but now will have to start less and work up again
 
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Carlos Danger

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Went to the range after reassembly and ran some ladder loads at 100 and 250 yards. Let's just say I found one that should fit the bill quite nicely.

20210403_144741.jpg
 
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HAZWASTE

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Nov 13, 2020
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Morning everyone,

I have a RPR 300wm, since not much is heard of the RPR in this caliber I have a few questions regarding scoper rings and mounts. What is everyone with a magnum RPR is using fir scope ring height?
I running on the ruger vortex razor gen 2 , I tried vortex 1.1 rings but they seemed to low and just to get it sighted in I bought temporary all.i could fine locally at the time a leupold mark AR 177095 mount. It's a nice mount but thinking we can do better especially if I'm looking to take it to the max possible. ( not many ranges in s florida but I think I found one in Immokalee!)Top rail already gas a 30Moa can't.
Anyone tried the warne 34mm scope mount, 7821M ?


Thanks.
 

SIDS01

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The RPR has AR ergonomics, so AR height mounts and rings are a good place to start.

I used the Burris PEPR mount to dial more of the available elevation from the scope on my last one. I've used Vortex and Nightforce 20 moa 1 piece mounts on 2 others, but that Gen 2 Razor might not zero at 100. I don't have one, but I've read the actual travel above the zero stop is less than the advertised travel range.
 

HAZWASTE

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Thanks for replying, I have go back and check but it did take a few MOAs of travel from the bottom to get it to zero @100 yards. I may end up having to get a scope with more travel such a NF 7x35. We tried vortex PMr rings 1.1 in height but the scope bell was about 1/4 or less from the hand guard/barrel. Originally bought a NF 7x35 but it came with stripped sun shade threads on the scope body. I attempted to contact NF for about 5 days and no dice. So I ended up returning it and getting the vortex.
 

BobbyDucati

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.338 RPR 2yrs over 1000rounds no issues other than feeding from few mags could be mag issue. Get two cruched together. Dirty barrel ELDm 285s mostly. Last Saturday 8” plates at 900yrds all day well 60rds lol.
 

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Fx51LP308

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Apr 8, 2021
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All - i have considered much, but I'm ready to make a decision on my introductory rifle. It will be the Ruger Precision Rifle in .308 Win. I'm hoping to make the main purchase within the next month or two, and then the optic for it a month thereafter (I'm looking at both a Leupold and/or Vortex scope in the $900.00 range).

The greater question for me, now, is "what accessories/options?" Just how much should I "pimp my RPR?" :D I definitely want the Timiney 2 stage trigger group and, maybe, one of the Catalyst Arms Enhanced Bolt Knob (something with a little more grip on it). What other accessories are worth pursuing, including:

  1. Anarchy Outdoors Titanium bolt shroud;
  2. MAGPUL MOE+ PRS Stock
  3. MAGPUL Pistol Grip (I that on my home built AR-15;
  4. Catalyst Arms Mag release Extension;
  5. Anarchy Heat Treated firing pin;
  6. Catalyst Arms Fast track Handguard Allows me to slide the bipod back and forth/
  7. Anarchy Scope base with bubble level;
Do these things make an actual difference or are they just "window dressing?" Which options would you select?

Thanks much!
 
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Leadslinger5

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All - i have considered much, but I'm ready to make a decision on my introductory rifle. It will be the Ruger Precision Rifle in .308 Win. I'm hoping to make the main purchase within the next month or two, and then the optic for it a month thereafter (I'm looking at both a Leupold and/or Vortex scope in the $900.00 range).

The greater question for me, now, is "what accessories/options?" Just how much should I "pimp my RPR?" :D I definitely want the Timiney 2 stage trigger group and, maybe, one of the Catalyst Arms Enhanced Bolt Knob (something with a little more grip on it). What other accessories are worth pursuing, including:

  1. Anarchy Outdoors Titanium bolt shroud;
  2. MAGPUL MOE+ PRS Stock
  3. MAGPUL Pistol Grip (I that on my home built AR-15;
  4. Catalyst Arms Mag release Extension;
  5. Anarchy Heat Treated firing pin;
  6. Catalyst Arms Fast track Handguard Allows me to slide the bipod back and forth/
  7. Anarchy Scope base with bubble level;
Do these things make an actual difference or are they just "window dressing?" Which options would you select?

Thanks much!
My RPR in 6.5 creedmoor has just shy of 100 rds down the tube. I’m shooting .350” groups at 100 yds and I’m not an expert shooter. I would first off do a couple easy things. 1st- clean the barrel, 2nd- ditch the stock pistol grip and get something a little more grippy, I used the larue apeg grip and love it. 3rd- I would recommend, but take no responsibility on this recommendation: remove the trigger spring and see how you like it before just dropping a timney in. 4th -remove your base and all of your screws and degrease, Loc tite and torque everything.5th- Do the cheap pvc pipe mod to single load in the mag. I’m running a vortex PST (FFP) I picked up for $500 from euro optics and the vortex precision high rings(all loc tited and torqued). Then I would just shoot the crap out of it until you decide what will make the biggest difference, best bang for your buck if you will. A lot of guys like swapping out the stock to the PRS also. Im just over $2000 invested and wouldn’t be surprised to see the rifle competitive at 1000 yds + with the right shooter.
 
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Wiillk

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Me, I like the Target Tool Stock. Very comfortable to shoot from, adjustable, and stays adjusted, stiff and also can be colorful. Target Tool Stock on the bottom4AD9D9F8-1F11-4CCE-9406-45A92865325D.jpeg
 

ilaybrk

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The .308 is a great cartridge 600 yards or less and some people say 800 or less but 6.5 is same price and will shoot flatter out to 1000 yards and beyond and smaller holes in target to show off those tight groups. I still run the stock butstock because I am only person running the gun so once it is set I dont ever have to change it again. If I was sharing the gun I would probably would change it to the Magpul butstock.
 

straightshooter1

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The .308 is a great cartridge 600 yards or less and some people say 800 or less but 6.5 is same price and will shoot flatter out to 1000 yards and beyond and smaller holes in target to show off those tight groups. I still run the stock butstock because I am only person running the gun so once it is set I dont ever have to change it again. If I was sharing the gun I would probably would change it to the Magpul butstock.

There's a lot of good reasons to choose a 6.5 over .308 as the ballistics are simply better beyond 600 yds. And I feel 6.5's are much easier to reload cartridges that produce lower ES's and SD's too.

I chose to go with .308 and I'm glad I did these days given how hard it is to find supplies for 6.5's as opposed to .308's. ;) And, my .308 with a Krieger barrel (my second barrel) currently has over 5,300 rounds though it and I'm still getting bugholes and I have fun shooting out to 1000 yds when I can. Had I gone with a 6.5, I'd probably be getting ready to put a 5th barrel on. 😵:eek: A buddy of my that I shoot with has a 6.5 and as much as he loves shooting that gun, he limits the amount of shooting he does with using mild to moderate load to save barrel life.

So, which to choose really depends on what's important to you and just what kind of shooting one is doing and don't mind changing out barrels more often if one is doing a lot of shooting. ;)
 

flyfisher117

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There's a lot of good reasons to choose a 6.5 over .308 as the ballistics are simply better beyond 600 yds. And I feel 6.5's are much easier to reload cartridges that produce lower ES's and SD's too.

I chose to go with .308 and I'm glad I did these days given how hard it is to find supplies for 6.5's as opposed to .308's. ;) And, my .308 with a Krieger barrel (my second barrel) currently has over 5,300 rounds though it and I'm still getting bugholes and I have fun shooting out to 1000 yds when I can. Had I gone with a 6.5, I'd probably be getting ready to put a 5th barrel on. 😵:eek: A buddy of my that I shoot with has a 6.5 and as much as he loves shooting that gun, he limits the amount of shooting he does with using mild to moderate load to save barrel life.

So, which to choose really depends on what's important to you and just what kind of shooting one is doing and don't mind changing out barrels more often if one is doing a lot of shooting. ;)
Where are you finding .308 supplies? 6.5 has been just as available over the last year.

You must also really roast your barrels to think you'd be ready for the fifth one at 5k rounds.
 
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drcook

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The .308 is a great cartridge 600 yards or less and some people say 800 or less but 6.5 is same price and will shoot flatter out to 1000 yards and beyond and smaller holes in target to show off those tight groups. I still run the stock butstock because I am only person running the gun so once it is set I dont ever have to change it again. If I was sharing the gun I would probably would change it to the Magpul butstock.

Probably want to rethink that statement. New knowledge, new bullets are stretching it out. You could also tell that the the Marines who use it to 1000.
Here is the text for the new Sierra Matchking

This Sierra MatchKing bullet was designed with one thing in mind, and that was to shoot 1000 yards in a 308 Winchester. To accomplish that, Sierra added length to the boattail and engineered a forgiving tangent ogive with a closed nose. Doing this gave it a .527 BC which keeps it super sonic past 1000 yards in a 308 chamber. This bullet is basically a redesign of the legendary 168MK. Anyone that enjoys shooting medium to long range with a 308 or even the big magnums will love this bullet.

A 6.5 does have the advantage of being a newer design and other advantages, but a .308 has lots of advantages also. Such as the 1500 once shot Lake City brass cases I bought for what a few hundred 6.5 cases cost. Plus in a pinch, just like the venerable 30-06, you can walk into most places and they would have a box of .308's.

A 6.5 recoils less, yes I have shot both. Once you get past 1000 is where the 6.5 will really outrun the .308. My buddy regularly hits a 18"x18" target at a mile with his 6.5. That would be really more difficult with a .308, I wouldn't even seriously try it with my .308. May as well throw rocks.

However, I have a RPR in 6.5 PRC and .300 PRC for those shots.
 
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straightshooter1

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Where are you finding .308 supplies? 6.5 has been just as available over the last year.
Powder and Primers I stocked up in Jan 2020 before the things got crazy. And before things got really crazy I resupplied about midyear. Bullets have not been too hard to find, even at a decent price. Typically, I look to my local store, Bruno Shooters Supply where I'll walk in and see what's available, otherwise I often keep an eye on Midway, Brownells and Powder Valley and the like.

You must also really roast your barrels to think you'd be ready for the fifth one at 5k rounds.
No . . . this is my second barrel with 5300 rounds and the first, the factory barrel, I had nearly 4000 rounds before replacing it (though it didn't really need replacing). So, for a 6.5, yes . . . I'd expect to be just about ready for a 5th barrel as I approach 10,000 rounds fired since I got my RPR as I seldom shoot mild loads. And here in Arizona, the heat does tend to help "roast" the barrels. ;)
 

flyfisher117

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Powder and Primers I stocked up in Jan 2020 before the things got crazy. And before things got really crazy I resupplied about midyear. Bullets have not been too hard to find, even at a decent price. Typically, I look to my local store, Bruno Shooters Supply where I'll walk in and see what's available, otherwise I often keep an eye on Midway, Brownells and Powder Valley and the like.


No . . . this is my second barrel with 5300 rounds and the first, the factory barrel, I had nearly 4000 rounds before replacing it (though it didn't really need replacing). So, for a 6.5, yes . . . I'd expect to be just about ready for a 5th barrel as I approach 10,000 rounds fired since I got my RPR as I seldom shoot mild loads. And here in Arizona, the heat does tend to help "roast" the barrels. ;)
🙄 so you stocked up pre panic but feel the .308 has been easier to get?

Considering its the same primer moot point

Powder is about equal as far as availability, when comparing the popular choices.

Only thing the .308 may lead in is bullet selection. But looking at 168 SMKs and equivalent ELDms and 142 smks and equivalent eldms in the 6 5 they have been about equally abundant. My restock notifications for all 4 have been about the same.
 

straightshooter1

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🙄 so you stocked up pre panic but feel the .308 has been easier to get?

Considering its the same primer moot point

Powder is about equal as far as availability, when comparing the popular choices.

Only thing the .308 may lead in is bullet selection. But looking at 168 SMKs and equivalent ELDms and 142 smks and equivalent eldms in the 6 5 they have been about equally abundant. My restock notifications for all 4 have been about the same.

My shooting buddy fires a 6.5 and found the one bullet that really works well is the Berger 140 Hybrids with Lapua SR primers and doesn't care to shoot anything else. So I keep an eye out for him and let him know when I see anything he will use. So, in doing so I've kinda had my finger on the pulse of what's available for his 6.5 compared to .308.

Considering its the same primer moot point

Powder is about equal as far as availability, when comparing the popular choices.

Only thing the .308 may lead in is bullet selection. But looking at 168 SMKs and equivalent ELDms and 142 smks and equivalent eldms in the 6 5 they have been about equally abundant. My restock notifications for all 4 have been about the same.

In terms of primers and even powder availability, it's been about the same. . . especially if one is willing to pay inflated prices.

It's not so much finding a bullet that can be fired, but finding the bullet you want.

When Sierra came out with their new 169 SMK I managed to get a few hundred and on first testing I got really good results and would like to shoot a lot of them in place of 175's. But they're not available any more. Sierra even to them off their website.
 

Wiillk

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I just installed a Penguin Vertical grip from Anarchy Outdoors. Installs easily, is well made/solid and feels nice in the hand. However, there is one worrisome detail. The thumb rest places the thumb directly on the safety stop (which is opposite the stop used for a right handed shooter)

Has anyone installed this grip and noted any issues?


I also purchased a rail data card holder from Anarchy. A fine piece of equipment that works much better than the previously used card holder from another manufacturer that kept falling off. Also, the people at Anarchy are nice folks that are easy to work with. NDIH.
 

dzander

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My RPR in .223 has a 3 stage trigger, ie a bit of creep after the first stage. Anyone have a source for fixing this or do I have get a aftermarket replacment ?
 

ak4seven

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Apr 3, 2021
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Fullerton, California
Wanted to ask the forum a few questions about magazines.

First to see if anyone knew where to buy ARC 10 mags for the RPR (6.5 CM)? All out of stock, where I've searched.
Second, could I get away with using PMAGS AICS (MAG579 item#) 10 round magazines to feed reliably (top loading and cycling)?

Did a search but so many discrepancies between posts. Wanted to get a new/fresh response, if possible.

PS. New member/new to PRS. If this information is already posted, my apologies.
 
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Expert684

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Minuteman
  • Feb 22, 2013
    1,258
    2,533
    Lafayette, La
    Wanted to ask the forum a few questions about magazines.

    First to see if anyone knew where to buy ARC 10 mags for the RPR? All out of stock, where I've searched.
    Second, could I get away with using PMAGS AICS (MAG579 item#) 10 round magazines to feed reliably (top loading and cycling)?

    Did a search but so many discrepancies between posts. Wanted to get a new/fresh response, if possible.

    PS. New member/new to PRS. If this information is already posted, my apologies.
    You can find Ruger steel mags on EBay, they are AICS mags with the binder plate. They work well for me until I load something too long.
    Hope this helps?
     

    pell1203

    Stay Focused!
    PX Member
    Minuteman
  • Dec 27, 2007
    1,363
    386
    Bellevue, WA
    ak4seven, Magpul PMAG5 and PMAG10 AICS magazines work fine on 6.5 CM RPR as long as your cartridge overall length stays below the PMAG max mag length of 2.86"
     
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