Suppressors 308 can on a .22 rifle....will it work??

[Snake-Eyes]

To the OP:

If you shoot 22LR through a suppressor, lead build-up will happen. Period.

The amount of build-up depends on the amount of use. More use, more build-up.

If the suppressor was designed for a .308, when you go back and shoot that same can, with build-up, with a .308 again, the pressure "might" knock some of that build-up free. If it's teeny-tiny pieces, then you won't even notice. If it's big ol' chunks, then those chunks "might" get in the way of the next round. "Might" cause a strike, "might" not. If you had shot so much 22LR through it that the effective bore size was reduced below .308 tolerances, then your first .308 round will touch the build-up. It "might" deflect the round enough to cause a strike, it "might" not. Chances are better that it will cause a POI shift. If you try your best to soak-or-ultrasonic clean the can after the 22LR, you "might" get most of the build-up free, but you also "might" have just made it easier for some big chunks to break loose when the first .308 pressure does it's magic.

Notice all of the "might"s in that explanation? It means it is a Definite POSSIBILITY, but it DEPENDS on Your use and circumstances.

Zak is correct.
KYS is correct.
816Gump, *sigh*, is correct (but vehemently trying to not pay the $100 foot-in-mouth-braggart-Tax he signed up for)...


As Graham already succinctly pointed out: yes, it's physically possible to do, but no, it's not the best option.

Even Zak recommends a dedicated 22LR can if you're going to use it "a lot". There's a reason: shit happens. Why set yourself up for failure?


-out...

 

[KYS]

If I were to sit back and do the whole armchair gunsmith thing, I would say the root cause of KY's SWR problem is build up of carbon in the threads or on the mating surface of the can and it did not shoulder up when he fired the final four rounds. This assumes that the threads on the .22lr are shorter allowing carbon to deposit. When he installed the can on his .30 cal the threads on the muzzle are longer so they stop in the carbon. If this happened the mating surfaces may not have been square taking the can out of concentricity with the bore of the rifle.

If this is the case did the .22lr cause the problem? Yes but not because it's a .22lr, because the threads were shorter.


But hey, it's all assumptions. I'm not a gunsmith. I just try to look at the whole picture.


Anyone who cleans a dirty can should expect a POI change of some sort. That is just an opinion.

Not true since the suppressor shoulders on the barrel outside of the can. Internally you would have to be way off to create a misalignment. Even with 308 you still have some room at the muzzle end. The threading does not have anything to do with the issue. The issue came from switching back and forth, dirt ammo to high pressure ammo and carbon buildup. Put them all together and this happens, or your chances for equipment failure go up rapidly. Can you do it, sure. Do I like risking my gear if its unneeded? No, I want to conserve it. I don't believe in wasting my money or investments.

 

[TimK]

I didn't read through all the earlier posts, but I do it all the time. I have a TB 30P-1 that I run on my bolt gun, ARs, my .22 trainer, and my daughter's little .22 rifle. I'm watching the weight, and at some point I'll just run the dip through it.

It's extremely quiet with match .22 ammo, like you're not sure it went off quiet. Accuracy is still excellent.

If money were no object I'd have a dedicated .22 can, but this works just fine.

BTW, I called the manufacturer and asked them about it, and they had no worries either.

 

[KYS]

I'm in no way saying you "can't" do it. I am saying you can but there is risk involved. Calculate that risk for yourself and carry on. All I am saying is, a less then stellar result can happen. Judge that as you want.

 

[wakajawaka]

I would not recommend shooting .22lr, or any other lead projectile, through any suppressor that cannot be disassembled.

Even limited amounts or lead bullet use leaves deposits that can not be removed by any method other than mechanical or harsh and dangerous chemicals.

I'm a fan of bead blasting.

Forget about ultrasonic cleaners.

I've seen some promising results from the same SS media tumbling folks are using for brass.

My experience includes lead .22lr, .44mag in an integrally suppressed 77/44, and .50 in a suppressed SSK 500 Whisper.

How anyone that has seen and cleaned, first hand, the ensuing build up of lead /carbon /soot and can still recomend even a cursory use is beyond my comprehension or understanding.

 

[wakajawaka]

About 500 rounds of build up, no exposed led.
Had it been cast, it would have been a trip to the blast cabinet.
Would still be in there if I couldn't take it apart...
Do YOU want that in YOUR can?

Back when it was all clean and new.

 

[Hoser]

I will take apart my can, get it 100% spotless and then put 500 rounds of Eley through it and report back.

 

[The Gump]

You just keep digging. I never conceded. Im confident in my suppressor knowledge. I didn't present a case you favored, let's be honest. You wouldn't pay up if someone smacked you in the face with a video and 10 witnesses. Im confident the damage would have been a lot worse had I not cleaned the suppressor out after my initial firing of 22.

While I would say Zak is a smart guy and a top tier suppressor manufacturer..... he may not have the time I have with the various suppressor makes and models. I have shot a lot of suppressors, own quite a few. I am not going to drop numbers because people will say I am bragging. I don't care, I am trying to help educate on this situation. It is also good to be friends with the SOT guys around town, and to have the range they test fire on.

My issue with the SWR was not the threading. We had .75" on the barrel and a properly made adapter by a well known gunsmith. The buildup was all the way thru the suppressor. Again, Gump you have not done the test yourself you are only spewing what you have heard and read. So stop with the cheerleading antics. Either test it and report back, or sign off on your lack of experience on the matter. Most of my information came straight from the techs a SilencerCO/SWR. I think they are qualified to deliver an opinion on this and what happened with my can.

Not ignoring the thread. Just been busy. I'm going to repeat what you did with my SDN-6. What length barrel was on the .22lr you used? Semi Auto? A few differences will be I do not have a US cleaner so I will probably soak it, blow it out with air, or simply visually inspect it for obstructions and let the 55K PSI worth of .308 gas do the work. I haven't decided. I will also do my best to get pictures of the inside of the can before 1k of .22lr, before 5 rds of .308, before 100 .22lr, and before 4rds of .308. I will take some pictures of it dirty and clean. I will check for obstructions and strikes after every centerfire round and attempt to weigh it along the way. Additionally, I will do what it takes to make the mating surfaces engage properly when I remove and reinstall the can and maintain safe firearm use and handling.

Give me some time.

Edit:
A few other things. I will use my .260 before and after for accuracy and POI change. I have not been able to get my LMT to shoot anything well. My .260 has 2800+ rounds on it but it still shoots ok. I will have to swap the brake between my R700 .260 and LMT .308 as well.

 

[SuckitTrebek]

I would probably not do it. You are talking about a very dirty rimfire round going thru a centerfire can. Stability could be an issue when running subs.
The carbon buildup alone will be an issue. When you go to shoot centerfire thru it again you could risk a baffle strike.

The 308 can won't do much at all on a 10/22. Most 22 cans don't muffle a 10/22 due to the action cycling.

Not sure what your talking about man. I have a 10/22 that I suppress regularly with a .22 can. Sound of the action or not it is a world of difference.

 

[Hoser]

I took my totally spotless 308 can out and shot 100 rounds of Eley blue through it.

Following that it still looked plenty clean inside. Just a bunch of cornmeal looking unburned powder left behind. Looking inside with a borescope it looks normal.

The can got heavier by 38-40 grains.

I washed it out with brake cleaner and compressed air.

Back to the same weight I started with.

Next test will be 500 rounds over a few weeks. Should be done testing mid to late December.

 

[hatidua]

Most 22 cans don't muffle a 10/22 due to the action cycling.

Bovine Fecal Matter.

 

[Zak Smith]

The point about the threads vs. the shoulder is that if you shoot a can on a barrel that has a shorter distance from shoulder to muzzle, carbon builds up on the internal suppressor threads where the muzzle stops and if you go back to a barrel with a longer threaded section it may not be able to go on enough to actually shoulder up again. Not sure if this is the case but that's a scenario we've seen a few times.

 

[ddavis]

Bovine Fecal Matter.

I've got to 2nd that. I don't have a .22 can, but my 308 can makes my 10/22 very quiet. If you want proof, take a piece of 5.56 brass and wedge it behind the charging handle. It fits almost perfectly to keep the action from cycling. I tried it a few times and realized it really didn't make a difference if the action cycled or not. The only difference in sound is the action itself, no different than chambering a round manually.

 

[KYS]

Its a pretty common fact that if you shoot a 10/22 that the action will contribute to some of the noise and the gas escapes from there for its function.

Its also common that if you hold the action shut it will shoot a bit more accurately and be a bit more quiet. Thats because you are trapping the gas just like a bolt action.

Now….. shoot that same 10/22 with a suppressor, close the action. more quiet. In my experience a can just doesn't quiet it enough to warrant its full time use with super sonic ammo. With subsonic ammo, different story.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjzqFnuMzUo

 

[KYS]

I've got to 2nd that. I don't have a .22 can, but my 308 can makes my 10/22 very quiet. If you want proof, take a piece of 5.56 brass and wedge it behind the charging handle. It fits almost perfectly to keep the action from cycling. I tried it a few times and realized it really didn't make a difference if the action cycled or not. The only difference in sound is the action itself, no different than chambering a round manually.

I don't see that it makes a big difference with super sonic ammo. Subsonic ammo is a bigger difference for sure.

Action noise is a fact. Same thing with a suppressed AR15 or AR10. You cannot dispute that and the escaping gasses from their firing system. While a 10/22 is a lot less, it's still present.

 

[Hoser]

I took my totally spotless 308 can out and shot 100 rounds of Eley blue through it.

Following that it still looked plenty clean inside. Just a bunch of cornmeal looking unburned powder left behind. Looking inside with a borescope it looks normal.

The can got heavier by 38-40 grains.

I washed it out with brake cleaner and compressed air.

Back to the same weight I started with.

Next test will be 500 rounds over a few weeks. Should be done testing mid to late December.

As of two days ago I have 245 round of Eley Blue and 50 rounds of Eley Edge through my Shark 308 can.

It gains about 35-40 grains in weight each time I take it out. A short blast of compressed air and brake cleaner takes it right back to the original weight.

Looking inside the ID has not changed. I will hit the 500 round mark by 18 December. I will shoot 80-100 rounds of 6CM through it at a match on the 21st.

Following the match I will do a complete teardown and see whats left inside.

 

[KYS]

As of two days ago I have 245 round of Eley Blue and 50 rounds of Eley Edge through my Shark 308 can.

It gains about 35-40 grains in weight each time I take it out. A short blast of compressed air and brake cleaner takes it right back to the original weight.

Looking inside the ID has not changed. I will hit the 500 round mark by 18 December. I will shoot 80-100 rounds of 6CM through it at a match on the 21st.

Following the match I will do a complete teardown and see whats left inside.

The debate was can you go rimfire to centerfire with no issues. Go for 1000 rounds of 22 with no cleaning. That's what I did.

 

[Hoser]

The debate was can you go rimfire to centerfire with no issues. Go for 1000 rounds of 22 with no cleaning. That's what I did.

Ok then. I will give it a try.

 

[ddavis]

I don't see that it makes a big difference with super sonic ammo. Subsonic ammo is a bigger difference for sure.

Action noise is a fact. Same thing with a suppressed AR15 or AR10. You cannot dispute that and the escaping gasses from their firing system. While a 10/22 is a lot less, it's still present.

Just watched the video you posted. That's about what I figured it would be; about 1 db. I guess I can't hear 1 db with my crappy hearing, which also makes sense. I get the same thing with a 300 BLK AR15. When I had a 3 position gas block, I couldn't tell enough of a difference to really matter with the action cycling vs. the gas block shut off. You are correct that there is a difference, but IMO, it is not enough to even worry about.

 

[beretta989]

I ran 2-3k through my Sandstorm last winter, than spent all summer pounding Prarie dogs blowing it out. Never had any issues. My .22lr is 8lbs so the size of the Sandstorm didn't bother me.

 

[BIG_GUNNUT]

Ok then. I will give it a try.

Can a guy even afford to shoot that many 22lr rounds in one sitting anymore?

 

[beretta989]

When my local gunshop was selling cci HP subs for 35$ per 500 I bought 15k from him.

 

[Surgeon_Shooter]

I'm surprised to see all the nay sayers on this!

They make .22 cans that obviously have smaller holes in the baffles and they are fine! How is a bigger hole in the baffles going to cause a baffle strike!? That don't even make sense... Also who cares if it foules up the can with un burnt powder and lead? Clean it before you put it back on your .308!

Or you could just shoot the loud as gun while your waiting a year for a new can. It's a no brainer!

 

[KYS]

I'm surprised to see all the nay sayers on this!

They make .22 cans that obviously have smaller holes in the baffles and they are fine! How is a bigger hole in the baffles going to cause a baffle strike!? That don't even make sense... Also who cares if it foules up the can with un burnt powder and lead? Clean it before you put it back on your .308!

Or you could just shoot the loud as gun while your waiting a year for a new can. It's a no brainer!

I'm not sure you understand the disagreement that took place. Some are saying you are completely fine. I don't completely agree with it but you can do it. You just risk POSSIBLE damage to your centerfire suppressor. I don't like probability in damages to my item that took 12+ months to get on top of the money spent to obtain it.
I did a test that others have mentioned and I noticed that one of my suppressors did sustain some damage. The manufacturer even agreed that shooting a high volume of 22 can cause some unfavorable results if not cleaned properly. Lead buildup adds weight, which reduces the effectiveness of the suppressor, and can come loose under higher pressure loads and cause a strike.

I'll say it again. You can do it. But I choose to take a more cautious approach to how it's used. Damage can occur. Will it happen to every single person that uses a 30cal can for their 22? No, probably not. But do you want to be that percentage that does? Just sayin'

 

[Hunbramericano]

My friend who lives in France have a 30 caliber suppressor that he built (legally) and use for decades for multiple guns including 22's. He just need to clean more often and maintain it well. What is more important to have a design that is easy to maintain/clean. He goes to range 2-3 times a week since he also competes regularly and love the life style.

 

[ms3]

if you run a 308 on 22lr you definitely want a take apart can. fortunately i have one

in terms of effectiveness, it's even quieter than my AAC Element 2. but only just! it's a great way to demonstrate the point of diminishing returns with larger sizes, and that there is optimal size for specific calibers.

a 10/22 silences very well, the port pop isn't THAT loud. certainly no worse than most semiauto 22lr pistols. port pop exists on AR as well, but the AR action noise is also very loud. go to your AR and close the bolt. the bolt slamming shut can actually ring your ears, it's that loud.

if you are worried about lead fouling, there is FMJ 22lr available. you still have to deal with carbon fouling though. but you have to deal with that on centerfire as well. you'd be amazed how much crud builds up in centerfire cans.

just about any 22lr is going to be subsonic out of a pistol. it's only when shooting from a rifle that you have to specifically be picky about subsonic ammo.

if anyone got a centerfire baffle strike on a 308 suppressor after shooting it on a 22lr host, it would almost certainly be due to misalignment. obstructed bore is extremely unlikely.

 

[Hoser]

The debate was can you go rimfire to centerfire with no issues. Go for 1000 rounds of 22 with no cleaning. That's what I did.

Finished getting over the 1,000 round mark yesterday. Close to 1,200 actually.

All of it was Eley target ammo. No copper plated bullets.

My can gained about 16 grams or just over 1/2 ounce of weight. I took it apart and cleaned it to get rid of all the unburnt powder. Final weight 5 grams over what it started at.

I also measured the bore diameter of the first three baffles and there was no change. So no build up of lead or carbon.

 

[The Gump]

 

[KYS]

Gump, you sure talk a lot on the internet.... why aren't you like that in person?

As I have said 10 times now in this thread. The results I got are mirrored through other people. Doesn't mean it will happen to everyone given the variable.

You saw a massive jump in weight, centerfire wont cause that type of buildup in that time frame. It can cause issues, that is well documented with quite a few people. And I repeat CAN cause issues not WILL cause issues. Your results may vary.




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[KYS]

Finished getting over the 1,000 round mark yesterday. Close to 1,200 actually.

All of it was Eley target ammo. No copper plated bullets.

My can gained about 16 grams or just over 1/2 ounce of weight. I took it apart and cleaned it to get rid of all the unburnt powder. Final weight 5 grams over what it started at.

I also measured the bore diameter of the first three baffles and there was no change. So no build up of lead or carbon.

Glad you did the test and can tell where I am coming from. I think the next appropriate test is to shoot different manufacturers of ammo and see what dirties up the can/host the fastest.


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[MLC]

I would just like a clarification, KYS did you suggest that subsonic 22lr ammo might be unstable enough to cause a baffle strike in a 30 caliber can?
Should I worry about shooting subsonic 22lr through my AAC 22 can?

To the OP, this is subsonic ammo through a 30 caliber Liberty Mystic that can be disassembled and cleaned:



We both thought the Mystic was quieter than my AAC Pilot.
But my Pilot has a lot of pistol rounds through it, cannot be disassembled and may be gunked up.

YMMV

 

[KYS]

308 can on a .22 rifle....will it work??

read the thread..... i have clarified my stance like 6 times now. I have had the expierience that after using a centerfire can on a 22 for a large amount of rounds and go back to a centerfire cartridge that you COULD run into some issues. One of them might be a baffle strike from the built up carbon. We all can agree on the fact that 22lr is a very dirty round. That carbon can add substantial weight and collect unevenly inside the can. As you shoot a higher pressure round thru the can that carbon can come loose and cause an obstruction. There lies your problem.

I just am of the stance that I use my gear but I wont abuse it to the point that it's negligent. Just use it for what it was designed for. Can you shoot 22 thru a 30 cal can, yes. Are you taking a calculated risk? Sure. You weight the risk and do as you like, I am just giving you a friendly heads up with some instances that I and others have encountered.



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[The Gump]

Gump, you sure talk a lot on the internet.... why aren't you like that in person?

As I have said 10 times now in this thread. The results I got are mirrored through other people. Doesn't mean it will happen to everyone given the variable.

You saw a massive jump in weight, centerfire wont cause that type of buildup in that time frame. It can cause issues, that is well documented with quite a few people. And I repeat CAN cause issues not WILL cause issues. Your results may vary.




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Oh, I'm the same person. There is no doubt about that. I do like a debate and I do like being a smart ass. I talk shit just like the rest of them and I get made fun of just the same. It's just shit talkin and it really doesn't bother me. It keeps me on my toes and entertained.

That being said. I'm not a rude person.(up for debate) I just talk shit.

As far as debating goes, I don't like to get into one on a subject that I'm not knowledgeable on and confident I can win.

If I am wrong, I own up to it and work to understand why I'm wrong so the next time I won't be.

You're right though. In the end it is only the internet. In this place, everyone shoots .5moa all day long to distance with their 5R and 175 SMK's if they do their part. Somehow though, when it comes time to scoop up the rifles and scopes from the prize table they are no where to be found. So ya, I get it.

 

[KYS]

Oh, I'm the same person. There is no doubt about that. I do like a debate and I do like being a smart ass. I talk shit just like the rest of them and I get made fun of just the same. It's just shit talkin and it really doesn't bother me. It keeps me on my toes and entertained.

That being said. I'm not a rude person.(up for debate) I just talk shit.

As far as debating goes, I don't like to get into one on a subject that I'm not knowledgeable on and confident I can win.

If I am wrong, I own up to it and work to understand why I'm wrong so the next time I won't be.

You're right though. In the end it is only the internet. In this place, everyone shoots .5moa all day long to distance with their 5R and 175 SMK's if they do their part. Somehow though, when it comes time to scoop up the rifles and scopes from the prize table they are no where to be found. So ya, I get it.

That's funny Gump, because every time I have been there you never say a word or interact. I also find it strange that you want to argue and "debate" with someone that has quite a bit of experience with suppressors and suppressed firearms. I own a wide variety of suppressors, and I am also good friends with my SOT. He basically lets me have access to his full arsenal when he is free to let me test items out. I am getting my SOT in the summer. I've shot thousands of rounds suppressed, not because I want to or need to, it's because I have to. Where I live they won't tolerate a bunch of gun fire. So I go polite and keep it quiet almost 98% of my time trigger time.

So that brings me to another question: how many suppressors do you own? How long have you been shooting with them? Why are you so confident you are right when I have had issues, several other stories and accounts are available to read on this site and silencertalk.com? A member here just stated that after 1200 rounds of quality ammo he saw a huge jump in weight. What if he used a bulk pack low quality ammo?! The results would have been more extreme in the negative side of it.

I have seen the results from jumping back and forth and it doesn't warrant the use of my 30cal can on a cheap overall caliber. If you want to suppress it, pay to get the caliber specific can. Most manufacturers run specials on their 22 cans and they end up being cheaper then the tax stamp. The NFA game is expensive so get used to it, you don't need to be in NFA and try and be cheap about it. You get out what you put in.


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[The Gump]

That's funny Gump, because every time I have been there you never say a word or interact. I also find it strange that you want to argue and "debate" with someone that has quite a bit of experience with suppressors and suppressed firearms. I own a wide variety of suppressors, and I am also good friends with my SOT. He basically lets me have access to his full arsenal when he is free to let me test items out. I am getting my SOT in the summer. I've shot thousands of rounds suppressed, not because I want to or need to, it's because I have to. Where I live they won't tolerate a bunch of gun fire. So I go polite and keep it quiet almost 98% of my time trigger time.

So that brings me to another question: how many suppressors do you own? How long have you been shooting with them? Why are you so confident you are right when I have had issues, several other stories and accounts are available to read on this site and silencertalk.com? A member here just stated that after 1200 rounds of quality ammo he saw a huge jump in weight. What if he used a bulk pack low quality ammo?! The results would have been more extreme in the negative side of it.

I have seen the results from jumping back and forth and it doesn't warrant the use of my 30cal can on a cheap overall caliber. If you want to suppress it, pay to get the caliber specific can. Most manufacturers run specials on their 22 cans and they end up being cheaper then the tax stamp. The NFA game is expensive so get used to it, you don't need to be in NFA and try and be cheap about it. You get out what you put in.


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Lets recap.

Wondering if this can be done. I have a thread on 308 can and would like to use it on my .22 rifle. I have a 10-22 with a heavy bull barrel that i would like to get threaded. I have used the can on my AR 15 and it was alot quieter....but not as quiet as a dedicated .223 can would be. Has anyone ever done this with a .22? Also wondering if the .22 woud be alot quieter (.22 is quiet already) and wondering if the bullet would hit the baffels in the can? I thought this would be a neat thing to do for my kids when they shoot. Any info is appreciated.

I would probably not do it. You are talking about a very dirty rimfire round going thru a centerfire can. Stability could be an issue when running subs.
The carbon buildup alone will be an issue. When you go to shoot centerfire thru it again you could risk a baffle strike.

The 308 can won't do much at all on a 10/22. Most 22 cans don't muffle a 10/22 due to the action cycling.

Your are certainly on the right track. If you build up lead fast, it can lead to baffle strikes when you go back to a higher pressure round that the can was intended for. There is a reason why 90% of the 22 can out there come apart for cleaning.
That's the same reasons most centerfire cans do not come apart. They just don't require the extensive cleaning a dirty round like the 22 does.

OMFG! $100 to the first mother fucker that gets a baffle strike or a significant shift change in POI due to .22lr funk build up in their canGive me a brake.

I'll forward my address for the money. Thanks

Forward us the proof.

Edit: And I'm not talking about taking a can with 10k worth of center fire through it, firing 20 rounds of .22lr through it, cleaning it spick and span so there is zero carbon in it from either cartridge, shooting another 20 rounds of .22lr though it, and then admiring the POI change.

Also, I would not worry about eroding the baffles on a .30 cal can with a 16"+ barreled .22lr. Just saying, the powder has done burn it's burn by the time the gas exits into the expansion chamber, it's only moving maybe 1200fps, and depending on the can the blast baffle is most likely made of stainless steel if not inconel.

As of two days ago I have 245 round of Eley Blue and 50 rounds of Eley Edge through my Shark 308 can.

It gains about 35-40 grains in weight each time I take it out. A short blast of compressed air and brake cleaner takes it right back to the original weight.

Looking inside the ID has not changed. I will hit the 500 round mark by 18 December. I will shoot 80-100 rounds of 6CM through it at a match on the 21st.

Following the match I will do a complete teardown and see whats left inside.

The debate was can you go rimfire to centerfire with no issues. Go for 1000 rounds of 22 with no cleaning. That's what I did.

Ok then. I will give it a try.

Finished getting over the 1,000 round mark yesterday. Close to 1,200 actually.

All of it was Eley target ammo. No copper plated bullets.

My can gained about 16 grams or just over 1/2 ounce of weight. I took it apart and cleaned it to get rid of all the unburnt powder. Final weight 5 grams over what it started at.

I also measured the bore diameter of the first three baffles and there was no change. So no build up of lead or carbon.

So where does that put us? Hoser shoot 1200 rounds through his can and now you consider his test invalid because he didn't do it with all different brands. Whats next? He has to do it while standing on hid head. As far as I have see in this thread and elsewhere, you are the only on who has stated they damaged their can WHILE shooting .22lr not as a result of shooting .22lr. Should I shun .260 since I damaged my can WHILE shooting .260 or just make sure my can is mounted up correctly before I squeeze the trigger?

 

[KYS]

Good grief Gump, do you even read what is in front of you? I never said Hoser's test was invalid. I asked him to consider his results with a dirtier bulk pack type ammo. Something that is going to foul more and create worse conditions inside of the suppressor and/or host weapon.

I also never said you COULD NOT do this. I said I wouldnt suggest it given my experience with doing it and others experiences. I used really dirty bulk pack ammo, fired around 1k rounds, cleaned it best I could, fired some centerfire and had a baffle strike. To me that is just not worth my investment of the suppressor, time to get it, and tax stamp money. That is it, nothing else to read into.




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[Strykervet]

FWIW, Liberty makes rifle cans and multi-purpose cans that accommodate .22LR, but note ALL of those are take down models. They recommend NOT firing .22LR through a sealed can, just like most manufacturers do. If you HAVE to have a one can does it all, look at the Liberty Mystic, maybe some of their other offerings.

But for the price of a great .22 can, why? I got the best they make, the Essence, for less than $600 and it's the lightest and quietest on the market, when you consider all the attributes together. But they make slightly heavier ones for less that perform just as well.

I wouldn't risk fouling a sealed can were I you.

 

[Hoser]

I asked him to consider his results with a dirtier bulk pack type ammo. Something that is going to foul more and create worse conditions inside of the suppressor and/or host weapon.

Not interested in shooting crappy ammo through my match rifle. Lower power, subsonic, lead, match ammo is plenty dirty enough.

You asked about a 1,000 round test. Curiosity made me do it.

My work here is done.

 

[mdmp5]

Just my 2¢ to this discussion; I tried a Thunderbeast 223P1 on my ruger 22/45 a few years back, and it sucked. Didn't suppress the sound worth a shit. Amazing how the little 22L1 works like a charm, but the bigger can couldn't budge the sound on a 22LR.

 

[cal50]

In the past I fired a brick of .22 ammo ( when you could actually buy it ) through one of my larger caliber suppressors. Once I got home I put a white piece of paper on the table and started shaking crap out of my can like a pepper shaker. Lots of un-burned powder , crap that looked like lube and lots of tiny lead pieces / chunks. The only one that concerned me was the excess lead pieces and you could still shake them around and not get them out. The lube must melt and make a nice paste that hold the crap to the internal parts. I soaked it in " The Dip" and ended up buying a dedicated .22 can.

Yea, it can be done and works to a limited degree but will definitely add crap to your can over time. If you have a lab balance or accurate scale weigh your can before and after firing a 1000 rounds and see what is retained.
If that works out well then try it on a muzzle loader.

(Kidding)