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.308 Winchester

As good as the results are I wouldn't use that powder again. I think I could achieve similar results with a more temp stable powder. Speed was all over the map because of the wild temperature swings this time of year so it forced me to rely too much on instinct rather than data. This was all I had so I used it but I've since scored some better powder. Next load will be with 8208 XBR and 168 ELDs. I like the Bergers but they're $25+ more per box than the Hornady with a similarly high BC. Also have some 176 A-tips I'm going to try.
Temp sensitivity is why I haven’t used my ball powders since early December. I’m working up loads of varget but still haven’t gotten to same accuracy I was getting from the X-Term

I’m also looking forward to trying in XBR, it keeps popping up in forums as a great powder. I mostly shoot classic SMK168 and Hornady eld-m 168 and 178
 
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As good as the results are I wouldn't use that powder again. I think I could achieve similar results with a more temp stable powder. Speed was all over the map because of the wild temperature swings this time of year so it forced me to rely too much on instinct rather than data. This was all I had so I used it but I've since scored some better powder. Next load will be with 8208 XBR and 168 ELDs. I like the Bergers but they're $25+ more per box than the Hornady with a similarly high BC. Also have some 176 A-tips I'm going to try.
Some bullets are designed to have impressive stats.

Others are designed to have impressive groups.

Bc isn't everything.

Waste of powder. Imho

If Sierra prices suit you better than Berger try the 169g.
 
Some bullets are designed to have impressive stats.

Others are designed to have impressive groups.

Bc isn't everything.

Waste of powder. Imho

If Sierra prices suit you better than Berger try the 169g.
I've never quite heard that opinion. I think if I can't shoot any of these particular bullets well, I won't be blaming the bullet. That said, I'm not yet convinced I'll stick with the 168's. This was more of a test load to get my loading skills back up to speed with limited component availability, and make sure I was both... doing the right things, and ignoring the right things. Waste of powder? The only wasted powder is one that doesn't provide actionable data.
 
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Been loading for my sons 308 for a couple of years.

His gun shoots 168 fgmm @ 3/4 and smaller.

I could never get close with any of the Hornady bullets that I bought for thier price and bc claims.

Choked up and purchased 168 smk. Only took a few range trips and the loads got to 1/2 - .60 moa.

During the bullet blight, ran out of 168 smk and also could not find any more 165 sgk that is an expanding sub moa round in his gun as well.

Happened upon the "new" 169 smk and on initial ocw test his gun shot a .219 group.

My Berger rounds just barely made 1 moa but that was because I ran out of varget so not a fair test on that gun.

That is where my opinion came from and it is given in ernest.

In our case throwing away 35 cents for a bullet, 10 cents for a primer and 25 cents worth of powder to save 15 cents on a inferior bullet doesn't work out well.

I still use some hornady bullets in other cals but am replacing loads as fast as I can.
 
Been loading for my sons 308 for a couple of years.

His gun shoots 168 fgmm @ 3/4 and smaller.

I could never get close with any of the Hornady bullets that I bought for thier price and bc claims.

Choked up and purchased 168 smk. Only took a few range trips and the loads got to 1/2 - .60 moa.

During the bullet blight, ran out of 168 smk and also could not find any more 165 sgk that is an expanding sub moa round in his gun as well.

Happened upon the "new" 169 smk and on initial ocw test his gun shot a .219 group.

My Berger rounds just barely made 1 moa but that was because I ran out of varget so not a fair test on that gun.

That is where my opinion came from and it is given in ernest.

In our case throwing away 35 cents for a bullet, 10 cents for a primer and 25 cents worth of powder to save 15 cents on a inferior bullet doesn't work out well.

I still use some hornady bullets in other cals but am replacing loads as fast as I can.
I don't doubt you. If we all knew exactly why certain components don't work for some we be in business making magic bullets. My experience with Hornady is factory 6.5cm and that shit is one hole ammunition out of my match gun, but in the past their lot to lot consistency has been less than stellar so I largely avoided it for matches. When shooting factory ammo, lot to lot performance matters more to me than tiny groups. Early on they had problems with ELDs from the meplat melting in flight but that's been cured to my knowledge. We'll see...if they don't shoot I'll use them as a training load. Either way in this environment you gotta take what you can get and bullet availability is all over the map right now. I think I'll be able to find their sweet spot.
 
Should be easy to find a sweet spot.

There are 3-4 per 100 rounds. Lol
 
IMR 3031 in my reloading books shows the highest velocity with the 150gr range of bullets. I've never used it but it has been a "staple" powder in the 308 for many many years. I believe it's a stick powder.
 
Is IMR 3031 any good, is it spherical?
It's an extruded powder, not spherical . . . and yes, it's a good powder for a .308.
3031.jpg
 
View attachment 7746521More mag options for 223 users. Picked up a waters rifleman 2.6” 223 mag, was supposed to be a ten rounder but got sent a 6, 10 should be s route from Australia soon. Sucker goes in tite! But is well made and seems to feed well, time will tell. Suckers are not cheap, but to have the option to go from a ten round, to a flush 4 round for different hunting applications I’m hoping it works.

I’m hoping the 10 will allow me to shoot a match with the rifle if I want to. That and less reloading in prairie dog towns.

IMR 3031 in my reloading books shows the highest velocity with the 150gr range of bullets. I've never used it but it has been a "staple" powder in the 308 for many many years. I believe it's a stick powder.

It's an extruded powder, not spherical . . . and yes, it's a good powder for a .308.
View attachment 7806134
Anyone know about the temperature sensitivity?
 
Who's running 168 Berger Hybrids and Varget? Find a load that works?
 
I would think anywhere between 42-44 grain of Varget you should find a load that works.
 
Does anyone run CCI 450 in "palma" (or any other SRP) brass? Ive got a enough 450s to build a small fort out of so trying to decide if its worth investing in a few hundred SRP 308 cases....
 
Does anyone run CCI 450 in "palma" (or any other SRP) brass? Ive got a enough 450s to build a small fort out of so trying to decide if its worth investing in a few hundred SRP 308 cases....

For my .308, I've got some 450's and run some in my Lapua palma brass using IMR-4064 powder and it produced good SD's (like in the mid single digits) and good ES's in the mid teens. I'm sure SRP .308 cases will work just fine with those primers. As usual, it's a matter of finding the right powder combination.
 
Who's running 168 Berger Hybrids and Varget? Find a load that works?

As mentioned, with 42-44 grs, you should be able to find a good load. 43.0 has worked really well for me, but that might work for you will all depend on how you load your cartridge for your paticular chamber specs.
 
Does anyone run CCI 450 in "palma" (or any other SRP) brass? Ive got a enough 450s to build a small fort out of so trying to decide if its worth investing in a few hundred SRP 308 cases....
Yup.Lapua Palma brass, CCI 450, Varget, 185gr Juggernauts leads to target:love:
 
Does anyone run CCI 450 in "palma" (or any other SRP) brass? Ive got a enough 450s to build a small fort out of so trying to decide if its worth investing in a few hundred SRP 308 cases....
I picked up 100 Peterson SRP brass recently because of dwindling large rifle primer inventory. Tested 50 rounds at 22 and 36 degrees and had zero failures to fire, and that’s about as cold as it gets here. It’s nice to consolidate to CCI 450’s, I use them in my x47 and BLK’s as well and have plenty.

Using 44 grains of Shooters World Prec. Rifle and 168 ELD-M’s I was around 2700 with very low ES, sub moa to 300 yards. Haven’t shot them further yet. The Peterson has less case capacity than the Lapua standard primers I normally use, but I hear good things about Peterson brass so we will see.
 
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VSP had a great idea to put this up as a Sticky.
Since we get SO many questions about this, this will aid everyone( esp Noobs) on a good load.

<span style="font-weight: bold">Please list ALL components, twist, barrel mfgr,length, neck tension.
Since we know changing any variable will alter the ultimate outcome.</span>
Bergara 20” Ridge rifle in .308 Win
Nosler brass, CCI large bench rest primers, FL sized, 168 Sierra SMK and 45 grains Varget equates honest 1.2” groups at 200 yards.
 
Worked on loads for my FN Spr A1 today. Loaded Peterson 1x brass with 40.5-42 grain of Varget. Bullet was 175 smk and cci200 primer. Bullet was seated at 2.845, puts the bullet 20 thousands off the lands.
42 grain was the sweet spot. 5 shots in a .64moa group at 100 yards. The last shot was my screw up. Velocity average was 2604. I’m very happy with the results.
2E604908-CF62-4FA5-BDD9-D130963511E6.jpeg
 
Been looking for supplies to reload for my Tikka lite, got a couple hundred 168smk and a few lbs of imr3031, still looking for some primers.

All my brass is from shooting 168fgmm.

Is it possible to get a decent load with this powder and bullet combination?
 
My sons gun loves fgmm and the only thing I can beat it with is varget / smk 168 & 169's.

Never tried the Imr.
How close in the burn rate is it?
 
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Been looking for supplies to reload for my Tikka lite, got a couple hundred 168smk and a few lbs of imr3031, still looking for some primers.

All my brass is from shooting 168fgmm.

Is it possible to get a decent load with this powder and bullet combination?
That combination can work just fine. You just have to do your load development as normally done.

. . . even when reloading Federal brass (as I have). ;)
 
My sons gun loves fgmm and the only thing I can beat it with is varget / smk 168 & 169's.

Never tried the Imr.
How close in the burn rate is it?
I really like Varget and the 168's and 169 SMK's too.

It's not just burn rate that needs to be looked at, but also the heat factor and how the burn rate changes with temperature. Varget is quite a bit less sensitive to temperature than IMR-3031, but IMR-3031 isn't really very sensitive either like many other powders.

Varget's burn rate is .6150 with a heat factor of 4050
IMR-3031's burn rate is .5772 with a heat factor of 3880
 
I have never reloaded a single case in my life, my father hasn’t done it in years.

Will be playing with it on Wednesday, will start low and work our way up.
 
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I really like Varget and the 168's and 169 SMK's too.

It's not just burn rate that needs to be looked at, but also the heat factor and how the burn rate changes with temperature. Varget is quite a bit less sensitive to temperature than IMR-3031, but IMR-3031 isn't really very sensitive either like many other powders.

Varget's burn rate is .6150 with a heat factor of 4050
IMR-3031's burn rate is .5772 with a heat factor of 3880
Nice information there. Thanks!
 
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I have never reloaded a single case in my life, my father hasn’t done it in years.

Will be playing with it on Wednesday, will start low and work our way up.
Get a couple of reloading manuals and stick to the plan.

Hard to mess things up that way.
 
As good as the results are I wouldn't use that powder again. I think I could achieve similar results with a more temp stable powder. Speed was all over the map because of the wild temperature swings this time of year so it forced me to rely too much on instinct rather than data. This was all I had so I used it but I've since scored some better powder. Next load will be with 8208 XBR and 168 ELDs. I like the Bergers but they're $25+ more per box than the Hornady with a similarly high BC. Also have some 176 A-tips I'm going to try.
Did you find a good combo with 8208 and 168’s? I’ve got some 155’s to test with 8208 as well. Never used this powder before.
 
I finally found enough powder to do load development for the SMK 169 gr. The seating depth took most of the time. I started at jam and went to from there to .100. They like to jump a lot. The best groups were .065-.070 out of jam.
Winchester brass
CCI 200
44 gr. IMR 4064
Coal: 2.869
Ogive: 2.140 Sinclair comparator
2770 FPS
 

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I finally found enough powder to do load development for the SMK 169 gr. The seating depth took most of the time. I started at jam and went to from there to .100. They like to jump a lot. The best groups were .065-.070 out of jam.
Winchester brass
CCI 200
44 gr. IMR 4064
Coal: 2.869
Ogive: 2.140 Sinclair comparator
2770 FPS
Yeah, IMR-4064 works really well for me too with the 169's. With Federal brass loaded to a COAL of 2.929 (COAL: 2.284 @ .011 off the lands), 43.2 grs gives me 2745 fps and 5 round groups around .3" @ 100 yds. I have yet to test them at distance.

A little milder load of AR-Comp (40.5 gr) gives me similar results on paper with a little less velocity.
 
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Last fall before I ran out of powder(varget) at 600 yards the 169 gr was shooting 2 MOA higher than the 168 gr. It’s finally getting light and warm enough up here in Alaska to get out and do some testing. I did find a node at .010 out(2.200) and one at 2.145(.065 out) and another at 2.120(.110 out)
 

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Tac is great in Dillon powder measures, load a bunch of 223 on my 650. Looks like tac will work with slightly heavier bullets, at the expense of velocity. I mainly use it in 223 gas and bolt guns and the aforementioned m1a.
 
I have to thread my .308 Win... So I decided to chop some off of the 24" barrel for a more compact package with the added length of the suppressors. The shortest I've ever gone on .308 Win is 20", and it shot amazing. But back then I didn't even own a chrono, so I have no idea about velocities. LOL

How much velocity will I lose going from a 24" .308 Win to a 20" or possibly a 18" or 16.5" .308?

I have been told that a .308 Win will get nearly a full burn in a 16" barrel due to the large .30 caliber bore diameter. Is this true? If so, wouldn't the velocity increases be minimal after 16-18" barrel lengths? Just curious on some thoughts from those who have done this. I'm used to long barrels and stuff. This whole shorter barrel world is all new to me, but I'm looking forward to the adventure.
 
I have to thread my .308 Win... So I decided to chop some off of the 24" barrel for a more compact package with the added length of the suppressors.

How much velocity will I lose going from a 24" .308 Win to a 20" or possibly a 18" or 16.5" .308?

I have been told that a .308 Win will get nearly a full burn in a 16" barrel due to the large .30 caliber bore diameter. Is this true? If so, wouldn't the velocity increases be minimal after 16-18" barrel lengths? Just curious on some thoughts from those who have done this. I'm used to long barrels and stuff. This whole shorter barrel world is all new to me, but I'm looking forward to the adventure.

 
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I have to thread my .308 Win... So I decided to chop some off of the 24" barrel for a more compact package with the added length of the suppressors. The shortest I've ever gone on .308 Win is 20", and it shot amazing. But back then I didn't even own a chrono, so I have no idea about velocities. LOL

How much velocity will I lose going from a 24" .308 Win to a 20" or possibly a 18" or 16.5" .308?

I have been told that a .308 Win will get nearly a full burn in a 16" barrel due to the large .30 caliber bore diameter. Is this true? If so, wouldn't the velocity increases be minimal after 16-18" barrel lengths? Just curious on some thoughts from those who have done this. I'm used to long barrels and stuff. This whole shorter barrel world is all new to me, but I'm looking forward to the adventure.
Whether or not you can get a full burn through a 16" barrel will depend on the powder being used. A good powder load that gives you a full burn out of a 24" .308 will most likely not do so out of 16". If you want a full burn out of 16" you'll want a faster burning powder that can stay within pressure limits than what is typically used for the longer barrels like a 24"er. The link shown in the previous post should give you a good idea.
 
I think it’s a pressure under the curve thing. Once the powder is all burned, the pressure starts to drop off, but the bullet is still accelerating in front of the remaining pressure. Longer barrel equals more opportunity to accelerate.

In my observation, you’ll be hard pressed to find a powder that offers better speeds with shorter barrels. I’ve heard of it, but haven’t observed it first hand, using a chronograph to validate the findings. Your mileage may differ.

Shorter barrels might be more accurate, because they are stiffer.
 
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I think it’s a pressure under the curve thing. Once the powder is all burned, the pressure starts to drop off, but the bullet is still accelerating in front of the remaining pressure. Longer barrel equals more opportunity to accelerate.

In my observation, you’ll be hard pressed to find a powder that offers better speeds with shorter barrels. I’ve heard of it, but haven’t observed it first hand, using a chronograph to validate the findings. Your mileage may differ.

Shorter barrels might be more accurate, because they are stiffer.
I have noticed this as well, but never messed with barrels under 20" in bolt guns. I see a lot of folks these days running 16" and 18" factory barrels in .308 and 6.5CM, and was just wondering how they're working out for folks. If they were not working well, naturally, I'd assume they would not be becoming so popular...But they seem to be increasing in popularity by the year. 🤷🏼

Hell, this gun literally shoots 1-hole groups, as is with the 24" 5R barrel. It has shot plenty of 0.1xx" groups with handloads using Varget. So if accuracy gets any better, It will put 3-shot .308" holes with 0.000" groups. 😂

Accuracy increase isn't my concern, but velocity drops are. I do hope the cut-down doesn't adversely affect anything as far as accuracy. It should't, but we'll see. Sometimes weird shit happens. But I hope the velocity doesn't drop off too much.

I'm just wondering if anyone had any length recommendations based on personal experience? Did anyone drop to an 18" or 16.5" barrel and feel like they gave up too much over a 20" or 24" barrel when it came to long range shooting?
 
I have noticed this as well, but never messed with barrels under 20" in bolt guns. I see a lot of folks these days running 16" and 18" factory barrels in .308 and 6.5CM, and was just wondering how they're working out for folks. If they were not working well, naturally, I'd assume they would not be becoming so popular...But they seem to be increasing in popularity by the year. 🤷🏼

Hell, this gun literally shoots 1-hole groups, as is with the 24" 5R barrel. It has shot plenty of 0.1xx" groups with handloads using Varget. So if accuracy gets any better, It will put 3-shot .308" holes with 0.000" groups. 😂

Accuracy increase isn't my concern, but velocity drops are. I do hope the cut-down doesn't adversely affect anything as far as accuracy. It should't, but we'll see. Sometimes weird shit happens. But I hope the velocity doesn't drop off too much.

I'm just wondering if anyone had any length recommendations based on personal experience? Did anyone drop to an 18" or 16.5" barrel and feel like they gave up too much over a 20" or 24" barrel when it came to long range shooting?

All I can say from experience is that I had a 20" barreled Tikka T3 Varmint. It shot great with Hornady A-Max 178 grain. I loaded them with Norma 202 and 203B (Reloader 15) which gave 2600 fps.
Since then I sold that rifle to a friend and had some different set ups until I ended up with my current rifle, a Sako TRG 22 with the 26" barrel. Guess what, it also shoots great, with the same class bullet and similar loadweights which also gives 2600 fps.
So as far as I am concerned, I will keep my 308 rifles with barrels around 20-22" as there does not seem to be a whole lot to gain by going with a longer tube. YMMV but this is what I am led to believe.
 
All I can say from experience is that I had a 20" barreled Tikka T3 Varmint. It shot great with Hornady A-Max 178 grain. I loaded them with Norma 202 and 203B (Reloader 15) which gave 2600 fps.
Since then I sold that rifle to a friend and had some different set ups until I ended up with my current rifle, a Sako TRG 22 with the 26" barrel. Guess what, it also shoots great, with the same class bullet and similar loadweights which also gives 2600 fps.
So as far as I am concerned, I will keep my 308 rifles with barrels around 20-22" as there does not seem to be a whole lot to gain by going with a longer tube. YMMV but this is what I am led to believe.
I'm cutting it regardless... At minimum cut, I'll be chopping it 4", to a 20" barrel. But i'm really mainly leaning towards 18" or maybe even 16.5" if there is not too much velocity loss...Affecting long range precision or performance.

The reason is, because I have some LONG cans... Dead Air Nomad-LT (8.5") and Otter Creek Labs Hydrogen-L (9"). So, wondering if I will lose much over a 20" barrel, if I go down to 18" or maybe even a 16.5" barrel to cut down on overall footprint when running the cans.
 
I'm cutting it regardless... At minimum cut, I'll be chopping it 4", to a 20" barrel. But i'm really mainly leaning towards 18" or maybe even 16.5" if there is not too much velocity loss...Affecting long range precision or performance.

The reason is, because I have some LONG cans... Dead Air Nomad-LT (8.5") and Otter Creek Labs Hydrogen-L (9"). So, wondering if I will lose much over a 20" barrel, if I go down to 18" or maybe even a 16.5" barrel to cut down on overall footprint when running the cans.

Yeah, go for it.
Do to regulations here, I cant go shorter than 18,5". My current suppressor is not that long either, its about 7".
But thats just me. If I were in your shoes I would cut it.
Precision wont be an issue, maybe you will lose a bit of speed but I would guess that it will be less than you think.
 
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Yeah, go for it.
Do to regulations here, I cant go shorter than 18,5". My current suppressor is not that long either, its about 7".
But thats just me. If I were in your shoes I would cut it.
Precision wont be an issue, maybe you will lose a bit of speed but I would guess that it will be less than you think.
I guess I could always cut it to 20" and then if I want to later, have my smith re-cut it down to 16.5" if I want? Or cut it to 20" and use it as my range toy, and then buy a new Sig Cross in .308 with the 16.1" barrel and use it for hunting, for a lightweight setup... 😈

I had no idea Sweden had a barrel length restriction, like we do here in the U.S. Interesting... You learn something new everyday. 👍🏼

Our's is 16.1" is a rifle, and under 16" is considered an "SBR" - Short-Barreled Rifle, and requires a Form-1 and a tax stamp (sort of similar to buying a suppressor).
 
I guess I could always cut it to 20" and then if I want to later, have my smith re-cut it down to 16.5" if I want? Or cut it to 20" and use it as my range toy, and then buy a new Sig Cross in .308 with the 16.1" barrel and use it for hunting, for a lightweight setup... 😈

I had no idea Sweden had a barrel length restriction, like we do here in the U.S. Interesting... You learn something new everyday. 👍🏼

Our's is 16.1" is a rifle, and under 16" is considered an "SBR" - Short-Barreled Rifle, and requires a Form-1 and a tax stamp (sort of similar to buying a suppressor).
There are a bunch of restrictions and definitions connected to having a rifle on a hunting certificate. But as of the 1 of July suppressors will be free to purchase for anyone with a weapons permit in Sweden. So thats some progress at least.

And like you wrote, you can cut, and cut again if you feel the urge. Its harder to go the other way around ;-)

I had my 300 win mag cut back to 22" and it turned out great. No where near the suggested velocity loss and the rifle handles a lot better than it did with the previous 28" barrel lenght.
 
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