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Autotrickler V3 - CE Products?

Just got my invoice for order #7046RS, shipping as order #7698RS, they gave me a $20 discount. I did not ask for it nor did I complain when I called for a status update. That seems like some pretty good customer service to me. Can't wait to get this thing.
 
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Question for you other splurgers...

Any thoughts on running just the FX scale with a manual thrower?

I don't load enough to justify the auto throw, but i do want a very good scale. Any suggestions/recs for just doing manual throw to scale to trickle?
 
Question for you other splurgers...

Any thoughts on running just the FX scale with a manual thrower?

I don't load enough to justify the auto throw, but i do want a very good scale. Any suggestions/recs for just doing manual throw to scale to trickle?

If you don’t have a manual powder measure already, a cheap alternative that I’ve seen people use is the Lee powder measure kit. Set the scale, throw close with one of the cups and place it on the scale to have the autotrickler do the rest.
 
If you don’t have a manual powder measure already, a cheap alternative that I’ve seen people use is the Lee powder measure kit. Set the scale, throw close with one of the cups and place it on the scale to have the autotrickler do the rest.
The Lee deluxe is exactly what I have.
So you’re suggesting I get the FX plus auto trickle, let it auto to my exact charge, a charge that I under throw on the Lee??

brilliant

can you buy just the FX and trickle without the throw?
 
Question for you other splurgers...

Any thoughts on running just the FX scale with a manual thrower?

I don't load enough to justify the auto throw, but i do want a very good scale. Any suggestions/recs for just doing manual throw to scale to trickle?
For a while I was under throwing and trickling up loads from my Hornandy auto throw with the FX-120 before I got the V3 set up.
As a scale the FX is quite nice.
 
I’m order 7106. I check with them at six weeks and they said it’d be closer to eight. Last week passed 8 weeks.
 
I put in my order with the Autotrickler site on 12/9, since I already had the scale. Sometime after I ordered they posted updated lead times of "around 8 weeks. We expect a short delay around January 1 due to the timing of a transition to a new batch of electronics which could push lead times to 9-10 weeks briefly, and then we will get it back under 8 by the end of January." I'm just going to settle in and not expect it until end of Feb...
 
Are the electronics being updated or is this just a new shipment?

No idea, I ripped that straight from Adam's website. If it matters to you, send him an email and I'm sure they'll get back to you.

ETA: Apparently Data Weighing Systems is no longer a distributer either, anyone here affected by the change?
 
Are the electronics being updated or is this just a new shipment?

They probably have an EOL (End of Life) issue with the board components, and have to update (manufacture) a new run of boards (I'd guess the BT component probably has been EOL'ed/sunsetted). Just a guess...
 
The Lee deluxe is exactly what I have.
So you’re suggesting I get the FX plus auto trickle, let it auto to my exact charge, a charge that I under throw on the Lee??

brilliant

can you buy just the FX and trickle without the throw?

We've put together a few packages with the Lee Perfect Powder Measure for manual loading. Not nearly as slick as the AutoTrickler, but certainly works.
 
No idea, I ripped that straight from Adam's website. If it matters to you, send him an email and I'm sure they'll get back to you.

ETA: Apparently Data Weighing Systems is no longer a distributer either, anyone here affected by the change?

Still shipping the Sartorius, A&D FXi scales and accessories, just no longer the AutoTrickler.
 
I placed my deposit on 3 Dec, so in the same boat. It will get here when it does, I have been reloading for decades with out one so whats a few more weeks.
 
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I've been experiencing drift with my FX-120i with Autotrickler V3. When throwing charges it will typically be very consistent for a while and then start drifting up and/or down up to +/- .08 grains with just the powder pan with no powder on the scale. Sometimes I can remove the empty pan and replace it a few times and it will go back to zero or close to it. Sometimes this was due to a grain of powder on the scale, but many other times it was not. I would eventually turn off the scale and then turn it back on and it would return to normal operation for a while and then start up again. I've tried wiping down both the scale and the powder cup with a dryer sheet and that would sometimes help, but only sometimes. I also don't have any drafts in the area where the scale is located. I do live in a drier climate so I've suspected for a while that static was at least part of my problem. I do have a whole house humidifier, but I don't think it adds enough humidity to completely do away with static. Other things I've done to try to eliminate the issue include: Granite surface block, anti-vibration feet for the granite block, leveling the scale, voltage regulator, wind screens, and grounding the scale to avoid or reduce static.

I've found two main causes for my drift and while it needs more testing to fully verify I'm seeing much improved scale operation now with the 2 changes I've made below.

1. The glass powder pan that is included with the AutoTrickler V3 (or maybe its plastic handle). The last time I loaded some .223 ammo I decided to start sorting brass and bullets. It was easier to use a larger powder pan for this so I used my MKM anti-static pan. I don't normally use this pan for powder because the lip is lower than the Autotrickler pan and powder is more likely to rebound out of the pan's flat bottom. I weighed around 150 cases and 400 bullets and never had an issue with drift using the MKM pan. After realizing the drift problem was non-existent I tried weighing some of my bullets in the glass pan and I started seeing drift again. Went back to the MKM pan - no drift. Back to glass - drift. Back to MKM pan - no drift. In my environment it seems the glass pan is building and holding a static charge. I ordered an Area 419 aluminum pan which is taller than the MKM pan and has a rounded bottom so is less likely to have powder bounce out. I left the Area 419 pan sit overnight with the scale on and it showed zero drift. I've removed the pan and replaced it numerous times and it still shows zero drift. I also did something else a little differently and that leads me to point 2.

2. In researching the drift issue I came across the scale's zero tracking function and that seemed like it would apply to my situation. In short, the zero tracking function monitors the scale drift internally and adjusts for it whenever the scale is at zero. The scale is set to do this by default. I don't know this for a fact, but since the Autotrickler dumps a charge as soon as it sees anything within 0.02 grains of zero I suspect this may be contributing to drift to some degree. It seems like the scale isn't being allowed enough time to fully return to a stable zero state. I would always place the powder pan on the scale when it was turned on and let it zero itself with the powder pan in place. As it turns out this may not be the best practice to follow. I've seen where other reloaders recommend zeroing a scale without the powder pan and then adding their desired powder charge weight number to the pan weight number and then setting that as their total charge weight. In theory this would allow the scale to use the zero tracking function whenever the pan was removed from the scale. This won't work correctly with the Autotrickler because it would just dump powder on the empty scale as soon as it reads zero.

I also came across the tare function. On the FX-120i scale this is enabled by pressing the Re-Zero key. I found this because I noticed the scale would just read "E"rror when the powder pan was removed from the scale instead of reading a negative value and was looking for a way to force it to read a negative weight - this would allow me to note an empty weight without the pan and another way to verify the scale was still zeroed before throwing another charge. What I've found is you can accomplish this by turning on the scale empty (without the pan) and let it sit for 30 minutes or more to get an accurate zero, then place the pan on the scale, let it settle to a stable reading, then hit the Re-Zero key to reset the display to read zero with the pan on the scale. This seems to be a distinction without a difference, but I believe the key difference is the scale retains its internal zero as it was originally set without the pan while displaying an "offset" value of zero when the pan is on the scale. The Autotrickler reads what is on the display so it throws powder whenever the display reads zero (when the pan is on the scale). The scale internally reads zero when the pan is removed while displaying a negative weight value and thus allows the zero tracking function to work for a longer time (more accurate zero tracking) while the pan is removed (pouring powder into cases).

The above steps have been tested and seem to work very well and appear to have resolved my drift issue. More time and testing will give more data to provide final verification.
 
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I’ll be trying this tonight when I start loading for my 6BRA. Granted I haven’t had drift I’ve had my zero shift to .04-0.06gr but I just zero it out and trudge along. Maybe this will eliminate that too
 
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I actually will try this because I had to quit using the area 419 plate that you set the dish on. Horrible drifting. No matter what I did.
However as a result it lowers the plate I’ll call it, so I’m forced to use the glass dish because of powder bouncing out. I hate the handle on the glass dish because it’s so short.
 
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Thanks for the tips, they will come in handy when my unit lands :)

I've been experiencing drift with my FX-120i with Autotrickler V3. When throwing charges it will typically be very consistent for a while and then start drifting up and/or down up to +/- .08 grains with just the powder pan with no powder on the scale. Sometimes I can remove the empty pan and replace it a few times and it will go back to zero or close to it. Sometimes this was due to a grain of powder on the scale, but many other times it was not. I would eventually turn off the scale and then turn it back on and it would return to normal operation for a while and then start up again. I've tried wiping down both the scale and the powder cup with a dryer sheet and that would sometimes help, but only sometimes. I also don't have any drafts in the area where the scale is located. I do live in a drier climate so I've suspected for a while that static was at least part of my problem. I do have a whole house humidifier, but I don't think it adds enough humidity to completely do away with static. Other things I've done to try to eliminate the issue include: Granite surface block, anti-vibration feet for the granite block, leveling the scale, voltage regulator, wind screens, and grounding the scale to avoid or reduce static.

I've found two main causes for my drift and while it needs more testing to fully verify I'm seeing much improved scale operation now with the 2 changes I've made below.

1. The glass powder pan that is included with the AutoTrickler V3 (or maybe its plastic handle). The last time I loaded some .223 ammo I decided to start sorting brass and bullets. It was easier to use a larger powder pan for this so I used my MKM anti-static pan. I don't normally use this pan for powder because the lip is lower than the Autotrickler pan and powder is more likely to rebound out of the pan's flat bottom. I weighed around 150 cases and 400 bullets and never had an issue with drift using the MKM pan. After realizing the drift problem was non-existent I tried weighing some of my bullets in the glass pan and I started seeing drift again. Went back to the MKM pan - no drift. Back to glass - drift. Back to MKM pan - no drift. In my environment it seems the glass pan is building and holding a static charge. I ordered an Area 419 aluminum pan which is taller than the MKM pan and has a rounded bottom so is less likely to have powder bounce out. I left the Area 419 pan sit overnight with the scale on and it showed zero drift. I've removed the pan and replaced it numerous times and it still shows zero drift. I also did something else a little differently and that leads me to point 2.

2. In researching the drift issue I came across the scale's zero tracking function and that seemed like it would apply to my situation. In short, the zero tracking function monitors the scale drift internally and adjusts for it whenever the scale is at zero. The scale is set to do this by default. I don't know this for a fact, but since the Autotrickler dumps a charge as soon as it sees anything within 0.02 grains of zero I suspect this may be contributing to drift to some degree. It seems like the scale isn't being allowed enough time to fully return to a stable zero state. I would always place the powder pan on the scale when it was turned on and let it zero itself with the powder pan in place. As it turns out this may not be the best practice to follow. I've seen where other reloaders recommend zeroing a scale without the powder pan and then adding their desired powder charge weight number to the pan weight number and then setting that as their total charge weight. In theory this would allow the scale to use the zero tracking function whenever the pan was removed from the scale. This won't work correctly with the Autotrickler because it would just dump powder on the empty scale as soon as it reads zero.

I also came across the tare function. On the FX-120i scale this is enabled by pressing the Re-Zero key. I found this because I noticed the scale would just read "E"rror when the powder pan was removed from the scale instead of reading a negative value and was looking for a way to force it to read a negative weight - this would allow me to note an empty weight without the pan and another way to verify the scale was still zeroed before throwing another charge. What I've found is you can accomplish this by turning on the scale empty (without the pan) and let it sit for 30 minutes or more to get an accurate zero, then place the pan on the scale, let it settle to a stable reading, then hit the Re-Zero key to reset the display to read zero with the pan on the scale. This seems to be a distinction without a difference, but I believe the key difference is the scale retains its internal zero as it was originally set without the pan while displaying an "offset" value of zero when the pan is on the scale. The Autotrickler reads what is on the display so it throws powder whenever the display reads zero (when the pan is on the scale). The scale internally reads zero when the pan is removed while displaying a negative weight value and thus allows the zero tracking function to work for a longer time (more accurate zero tracking) while the pan is removed (pouring powder into cases).

The above steps have been tested and seem to work very well and appear to have resolved my drift issue. More time and testing will give more data to provide final verification.
 
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I've been experiencing drift with my FX-120i with Autotrickler V3.
...
The above steps have been tested and seem to work very well and appear to have resolved my drift issue. More time and testing will give more data to provide final verification.
Very helpful observations and tips. I have a second FX-120i that I use without an AutoThrow or Autotrickler and I too noticed it never drifts. I also noticed that when my reloading room humidity is above 45%, I don't have drifting issues. But when I get below 35%, I have to stop and re-zero multiple times for a batch of 100. I did ground the balance and that did help to some degree, but I can't count on it. I'll pay more attention to the startup sequence as advised.

I never turn off my FX-120i's, they are powered on 24X7X365 and attached to a UPS to provide constant and cleaner power. Balances are grounded to my home's electrical. I also use a Milty 5036694022153 Zerostat 3 Anti-Static Gun to clear static from the balance if I'm seeing signs of static electricity like powder sticking to things it should not be.

Glad I'm not the only one who is having drift issues. Now maybe we can find solutions.
 
I've been experiencing drift with my FX-120i with Autotrickler V3. When throwing charges it will typically be very consistent for a while and then start drifting up and/or down up to +/- .08 grains with just the powder pan with no powder on the scale. Sometimes I can remove the empty pan and replace it a few times and it will go back to zero or close to it. Sometimes this was due to a grain of powder on the scale, but many other times it was not. I would eventually turn off the scale and then turn it back on and it would return to normal operation for a while and then start up again. I've tried wiping down both the scale and the powder cup with a dryer sheet and that would sometimes help, but only sometimes. I also don't have any drafts in the area where the scale is located. I do live in a drier climate so I've suspected for a while that static was at least part of my problem. I do have a whole house humidifier, but I don't think it adds enough humidity to completely do away with static. Other things I've done to try to eliminate the issue include: Granite surface block, anti-vibration feet for the granite block, leveling the scale, voltage regulator, wind screens, and grounding the scale to avoid or reduce static.

I've found two main causes for my drift and while it needs more testing to fully verify I'm seeing much improved scale operation now with the 2 changes I've made below.

1. The glass powder pan that is included with the AutoTrickler V3 (or maybe its plastic handle). The last time I loaded some .223 ammo I decided to start sorting brass and bullets. It was easier to use a larger powder pan for this so I used my MKM anti-static pan. I don't normally use this pan for powder because the lip is lower than the Autotrickler pan and powder is more likely to rebound out of the pan's flat bottom. I weighed around 150 cases and 400 bullets and never had an issue with drift using the MKM pan. After realizing the drift problem was non-existent I tried weighing some of my bullets in the glass pan and I started seeing drift again. Went back to the MKM pan - no drift. Back to glass - drift. Back to MKM pan - no drift. In my environment it seems the glass pan is building and holding a static charge. I ordered an Area 419 aluminum pan which is taller than the MKM pan and has a rounded bottom so is less likely to have powder bounce out. I left the Area 419 pan sit overnight with the scale on and it showed zero drift. I've removed the pan and replaced it numerous times and it still shows zero drift. I also did something else a little differently and that leads me to point 2.

2. In researching the drift issue I came across the scale's zero tracking function and that seemed like it would apply to my situation. In short, the zero tracking function monitors the scale drift internally and adjusts for it whenever the scale is at zero. The scale is set to do this by default. I don't know this for a fact, but since the Autotrickler dumps a charge as soon as it sees anything within 0.02 grains of zero I suspect this may be contributing to drift to some degree. It seems like the scale isn't being allowed enough time to fully return to a stable zero state. I would always place the powder pan on the scale when it was turned on and let it zero itself with the powder pan in place. As it turns out this may not be the best practice to follow. I've seen where other reloaders recommend zeroing a scale without the powder pan and then adding their desired powder charge weight number to the pan weight number and then setting that as their total charge weight. In theory this would allow the scale to use the zero tracking function whenever the pan was removed from the scale. This won't work correctly with the Autotrickler because it would just dump powder on the empty scale as soon as it reads zero.

I also came across the tare function. On the FX-120i scale this is enabled by pressing the Re-Zero key. I found this because I noticed the scale would just read "E"rror when the powder pan was removed from the scale instead of reading a negative value and was looking for a way to force it to read a negative weight - this would allow me to note an empty weight without the pan and another way to verify the scale was still zeroed before throwing another charge. What I've found is you can accomplish this by turning on the scale empty (without the pan) and let it sit for 30 minutes or more to get an accurate zero, then place the pan on the scale, let it settle to a stable reading, then hit the Re-Zero key to reset the display to read zero with the pan on the scale. This seems to be a distinction without a difference, but I believe the key difference is the scale retains its internal zero as it was originally set without the pan while displaying an "offset" value of zero when the pan is on the scale. The Autotrickler reads what is on the display so it throws powder whenever the display reads zero (when the pan is on the scale). The scale internally reads zero when the pan is removed while displaying a negative weight value and thus allows the zero tracking function to work for a longer time (more accurate zero tracking) while the pan is removed (pouring powder into cases).

The above steps have been tested and seem to work very well and appear to have resolved my drift issue. More time and testing will give more data to provide final verification.
Thank you for posting this. I’m certain I’ll be using your experiences to make mine operate better.
 
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Cut the front panel in half and drilled a hole in the side for the Autotrickler.

5FC19390-769B-4EA3-97DD-7412949D2523.jpeg

7FD5AFF4-04EA-4A20-8BC9-4B40C04AA43D.jpeg
 
I just got the area 419 accessories and highly recommend them. The clear lis is heavier, and makes the sides seem to disappear.
 
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Lots of good aluminum parts to replace the 3d printed stuff. I’m less likely to knock over the a.trickler, it also has much increased capacity. The plate and pan guides nicely. I also replaced the a.throw, not sure how necessary that was however. I went for it though.

I wish they did a billet a.throw housing so it was all aluminum, they said they didn’t plan on making a v3 a.throw housing.
 
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Lots of good aluminum parts to replace the 3d printed stuff. I’m less likely to knock over the a.trickler, it also has much increased capacity. The plate and pan guides nicely. I also replaced the a.throw, not sure how necessary that was however. I went for it though.

I wish they did a billet a.throw housing so it was all aluminum, they said they didn’t plan on making a v3 a.throw housing.

The Area 419 accessories are nice. I have them all, and my wallet is still complaining.

You guys aren’t making this a tough decision. Expensive but not tough... Thank you for the input! My wallet doesn’t though.
 
my wallet is still complaining
My wallet doesn’t though.
Get rid of those wallets!😆
Diffently worth every penny. The game changer was when Adam put out the app and Bluetooth board. I'm running Area 419 components and was looking at upgrading to Autotrickler V3 thrower but can't get a straight answer if its compatible with the 419 lid and machined funnel.
 
Honestly, hard to say as I bought the 419 upgrades while I was waiting for my V3 to come in and set it up like that out of the gate.
 
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Regarding Data Weigh Systems not being a distributor for Auto Trickler.

Still shipping the Sartorius, A&D FXi scales and accessories, just no longer the AutoTrickler.

No one should order from those guys. The reason they’re not a distributor anymore is because they were back-dating invoices for certain customers (allegedly those who bought unnecessary but more expensive scales), making it look like those orders had been pending for a longer time than actual so that the Autotrickler manufacturer would jump those orders ahead of other distributors’ orders to honor the lead times being advertised. I.e., order from data weigh systems on 11/1, DWS then tells Autotrickler the order was 9/1 (these are examples, not actual—but I can give an actual examplewhich is similar). This causes Autotrickler to lump that order in with others from 9/1 timeframe from other distributors, thereby jumping those orders ahead of anyone placing an order between 9/2 and 10/31.

Allegedly, they were also upselling the completely unnecessary Sartorius scale that reads to .001. For powders like varget or 4350 the .02 grain resolution of the fx120i matches kernel size so you couldn’t ever actually get any benefit from higher resolution—just higher cost for no reason.

I personally put this in the super-shady business practices arena and wouldn’t do business with them. I was one of the customers involved when this all blew up in January.

Autotrickler honored my original order date for lead time, gave me a discount, and asked another distributor (CE) to also provide a discount for the inconvenience which CE allowed. That’s who I would do business with when I’m ready to buy another setup.
 
Anyone order in Nov-dec and receive theirs recently? I'm just about to tick over 9 weeks... Ordered direct from Adam as I already had the scale.
 
The Area 419 products are a nice touch. The clear lid is a much heavier design....and see through. The funnel is offset so the throws don’t bounce powder out of the cup. The cup is a much wider design so powder “splashing“ is minimized. The pan self-centres the cup and has an indent for positive positioning. The new heavier trickler mount won’t walk across the surface when the trickler operates. It stays put.

B8-AAD746-3-F5-F-4-AFE-9-FDE-B61-F01-A8-D2-BF.jpg


F7733-E64-040-F-47-D0-92-C8-12-AC98103167.jpg


But my wallet still hurts.
 
I have a spare rubber O ring and baffel from the 419 funnel kit, where do they go?
 
The baffle goes in the funnel before you screw it on. Intructional video: http://fb.watch/3GqZYmJahw/

The O-ring is to adjust "clocking" of where the funnel ends up when it is screwed on tight. If you don't like where it ends up when tight, add the O-ring to change it's position.
 
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The baffle works. I added a second FX120 and couldn't figure out why Varget was splashing out of the 419 pan. I rotated the baffle 180 degrees and it immediately stopped.
 
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