something’s wrong with me…this thread must’ve given me a TBI…I read it like this
Barrel Torque Ludicrocity
- Thread starter Ronin22
- Start date
Honest to god I couldn't tell if you were being sarcastic about those torque values. About how much torque does it take to break an action wrench and is that the limiting factor on how much most people can torque a barrel on or is it damage to the action caused by the wrench?See i told you it's starting
Mike
Well I talked with Mike on the phone and apparently those torque numbers are legit. Got some cool info on some other aspects of riflebuilding too which was fun (and a cool book recommendation as well).
No...
The jam nut on a prefit is even different than a nut pushing back on the barrel extension ring.
Everything should be perfectly square as possible...or the barrel is pulled off center as tbe slack in the threads take up torque on an uneven surface or just jammed by the nut alone in the case of a barrel nut in different applications.
Why suppressors & some muzzle breakes do not recommend crush washers, or jam nuts ...but direct timmed mounts or precision shims so baffle strikes don't happen.
On ARs I always square, glue in, and torque to 60 ft/lbs never less, and never more on aluminum threads saved by the hard anodizing and applied anti-seeze
And mill a slot if the barrel nut groove does not line up for the gas tube and some use a steel nut that does not require lining up a slot.
Factory installed barrel extension butted up against a supposed factory square shoulder.
Scrapped the glue off this pre installed barrel in one area to get a reading straight across the length of the extension
Its pretty close to zero- zero, and .0002" TIR on tbe barrel itself...
but the runout on the end of the barrel extension is .002" and the face around. 001". Imagine your 16" barrel is attached pointing down range at a slight angle.
Plus any reciever portion out of square, or the barrel nut itself.
And thats not all of the problems to address.
Plus ARs flex easily...the best non AR barrel to reciever is mating is the solid receiver directly to barrel shank no barrel nuts, clamping the threads, or set screws...but with precision threads, lubed and torqued to at least 95 plus ft-lbs...IMO
But you all do whatever ya want...maybe a quick change barrel or take down method is more important than best accuracy potential
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I enjoyed the conversation as well and definitely made a new
NINJA friend...Call anytime it was my pleasure and definitely check that book out you'll learn a couple of interesting things I'm sure...
Mike R
What book?I enjoyed the conversation as well and definitely made a new
Call anytime it was my pleasure and definitely check that book out you'll learn a couple of interesting things I'm sure...
Mike R
Bottom right, which direction is the force being applied in the red circles when the screw (blue) is tightened?
Not if your red circles are to be believed. Section lines would definitely help.
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