Suppressors Cure for suppressor loosening?

[rg1911]

After 10-15 shots, my TBAC30-P1 suppressor starts to unthread. Fortunately, I haven't had any baffle strikes.

Short of welding it on, is there a way to tighten it up, but so it still can be removed for transporting and for swapping to another rifle? I checked with my 'smith, but his only suggestion was to use the Rock Set product from Surefire. My understanding is that this would not allow the suppressor to be easily removed.

Thank you,
Richard

 

[Copper75]

Don't rock set it unless u want it to be permanently attached to that barrel.

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk

 

[SnkBit]

Check the bbl threads. If they are under the specified dimensions from ThunderBeast the can will have a tendency to come loose. If they are to spec you should be able to "snap" the can on with your wrist and it pretty we'll stay put.

 

[Zak Smith]

Usually a snap with the wrist when it shoulders up will set it on there and it won't come loose.

 

[rg1911]

Usually a snap with the wrist when it shoulders up will set it on there and it won't come loose.

Thank you. I shall try the "snap" method.

If it makes a difference, I forgot to mention that it threads on very smoothly with no drag before it reaches the shoulder.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[SRSDriver]

I've seen a single wrap of teflon tape tighten it up and prevent backing off if the threads on the barrel are cut under size.

 

[rg1911]

I've seen a single wrap of teflon tape tighten it up and prevent backing off if the threads on the barrel are cut under size.

Now that's interesting. If the "snap" method doesn't work, I'll try the teflon tape. I believe I have a roll of it.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[Zak Smith]

We don't recommend using any washers between the can and the shoulder, especially deforming washers. A 0.001" defect from perfectly flat on the washer would cause the can to be approx 0.020" crooked at the end cap.

We have had luck with Nord-locs for full-auto applications with the 223A, though, and they still need to be checked for alignment.

 

[TheJ]

If the owner of the company says no, I'd stick with that. Especially since he gets to decide on warranty gray areas.

I do the "snap" method and it works great on all of my stuff. I get it until it is just tight, then with one had on the gun and one on the can I loosen it up about 1/8 turn, and really give it a snap back all the way tight turning both hands against each other. That way you are torquing the barrel into the can, and the can onto the barrel from both directions and can get a really tight fit. You should be able to get it tight enough that you have to really grip and twist hard to get it off, but still doable.

 

[Zak Smith]

I'm sure you can make a Belleville washer work. On the other hand, our recommendations are based on the goal of minimizing the likelihood of damaging a suppressor, on average and over a large number of users. Put another way, we aren't going to guarantee that use of a Belleville washer will never cause a problem.

As far as the warranty goes, it's pretty simple. If you use something out of our control and against our recommendation or specs and it causes the problem, it wouldn't be covered. If you are using a washer or something and a failure is unrelated to its use, it wouldn't affect the warranty for the repair.

 

[Zak Smith]

The other thing I wanted to add is that my original AWP barrel (M18x1.5) has pretty loose threads and because of that my original 30P-1 from 2009 fits pretty loose.. but it's never come loose. Tightening it on with firm hand pressure has always done it. Another thing to check is that the can has full contact on the shoulder.

 

[Solothurn]

Nord-Loc washers worked well for me on several barrels, but canted the silencer out of alignment on a couple.

I've had great results with putting 2 or 3 drops of medium Loc-tite on the barrel threads, then letting it dry overnight.