Handgun Piston / Buffer to Barrel Interface : Locker?

[mebgardner]

I was testing my new SilencerCo 9mm 1/2x28 barrel and YHM piston / buffer combo this weekend. (No Lithium jail break yet, just a dry run of the mounting).

At hand tight, as snug as I could make it on the barrel, the buffer and piston combo would come loose from the barrel within a couple shots.

Since its a tilting barrel and needs to be disassembled from the slide occasionally, can you recommend a method of a locking agent? Something other than semi-permanent Rocksett, or Red thread locker?

 

[alamo5000]

On any pistol the can coming loose is always a thing. The reciprocation of the slide causes the straight threaded can to 'walk off'.

There are a number of options. I have used BLUE locktite and it has worked great. Also plumber's teflon tape also works as well. However now Griffin Armament has a product called 'EZ Lok'. They make pistons for a multitude of different suppressors, even a bunch of other brands suppressors.

It has a little taper mount muzzle device that interfaces with the corresponding piston so it has more surface area as well as more friction to hold it in place. Another benefit is if you have more than one host, even ones with various muzzle threads, you can move the can from host to host without taking apart the suppressor to put in a new piston each time.

Suppressors - Introducing the EZ-LOK™ System!

Griffin Armament is proud to present you with the latest QD piston system, EZ-LOK™! We've put together a comparison video for you that goes over the Griffin CAM-LOK® system vs the new EZ-LOK™ system vs tradition piston attachment systems. The Griffin Armament EZ-LOK™ is our new...

www.snipershide.com

 

[clcustom1911]

I dont know anything about your barrel/suppressor combo.

What i do know is Red loctite and rockset are 2 completely different compounds And not interchangeable . If you use red loctite you're NOT going to be able to break the bond without heating the bonded surfaces to 200-300 degrees (I forget the exact temperature.)

Rocksett is not a permanent bond (think blue loctite strength, maybe a little more), but much higher temperature resistant.

I'd contact the manufacturer of your suppressor for their view on this issue.

 

[Longshot231]

You can use Plumber's tape to hold the piston onto the threads of the pistol barrel. However, I have found a better solution.

Use Vibra-Tite VC-3. Don't use any other Vibra-Tite product other than VC-3. I discovered this on an airgun forum. The airgunners use this on the threads of spring powered airguns that are notorious for vibration. It turned out to be better than blue Loc-Tite for screw retention.

So I decided to try it with the pistol suppressors. Follow the directions. Apply it to the threads then let it set for 15-20 minutes before installing the suppressor.

It dries to a rubbery flexible consistency but resists the vibration better than blue Loc-Tite. It is supposedly good for removing and installing a threaded part for about five times. However, I add just a little to the threads after I have cleaned the pistol and the suppressor.

I would avoid red Loc-Tite or Rocksett like the plague.

Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate

www.vibra-tite.com

Vibra-Tite VC-3 at Amazon

 

[JR1200W3]

Griffin Cam Lok was made for this reason. I use them on my pistol barrels. Looks like an air hose fitting when the suppressor isn't attached but works well. Very fast to attach and doesn't loosen as you shoot. It's a taper attach device.

 

[mebgardner]

I dont know anything about your barrel/suppressor combo.

What i do know is Red loctite and rockset are 2 completely different compounds And not interchangeable . If you use red loctite you're NOT going to be able to break the bond without heating the bonded surfaces to 200-300 degrees (I forget the exact temperature.)

Rocksett is not a permanent bond (think blue loctite strength, maybe a little more), but much higher temperature resistant.

I'd contact the manufacturer of your suppressor for their view on this issue.

Thanks. I contacted them first. He suggested I use Red, but his written dialog read like he was referring to "But on my guns I use red loctite and pretty much just never take them off. They're dedicated hosts." I went Uhhhh..., and then came here for the .02

I did not know that about the differences in Red .vs Rocksett. Good, Thanks!

 

[mebgardner]

Griffin Cam Lok was made for this reason. I use them on my pistol barrels. Looks like an air hose fitting when the suppressor isn't attached but works well. Very fast to attach and doesn't loosen as you shoot. It's a taper attach device.

Thanks. I'll have a look at it.

 

[mebgardner]

You can use Plumber's tape to hold the piston onto the threads of the pistol barrel. However, I have found a better solution.

Use Vibra-Tite VC-3. Don't use any other Vibra-Tite product other than VC-3. I discovered this on an airgun forum. The airgunners use this on the threads of spring powered airguns that are notorious for vibration. It turned out to be better than blue Loc-Tite for screw retention.

So I decided to try it with the pistol suppressors. Follow the directions. Apply it to the threads then let it set for 15-20 minutes before installing the suppressor.

It dries to a rubbery flexible consistency but resists the vibration better than blue Loc-Tite. It is supposedly good for removing and installing a threaded part for about five times. However, I add just a little to the threads after I have cleaned the pistol and the suppressor.

I would avoid red Loc-Tite or Rocksett like the plague.

Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate

www.vibra-tite.com

Vibra-Tite VC-3 at Amazon

Cool! I'll have a close look at this stuff. Thanks!

Just for my education, why do you advocate the avoidance of the red and the rocksett?

 

[mebgardner]

I have to be cautious about what HUB / ASR Bravo / 1.375x24 muzzle devices I select because my can has a very short BC. That is the advice from the manufacturer, to pay attention to that depth distance.

I mention this because of the muzzle devices being suggested. The YHM device is "approved" for use because they are shorter than most. Is what I'm told. I have the BC depth measurement, and I'll do the homework. Thanks for the suggestions.

Not being a brat, I'm still paying attention. Thanks for all the help.

 

[mebgardner]

You can use Plumber's tape to hold the piston onto the threads of the pistol barrel. However, I have found a better solution.

Use Vibra-Tite VC-3. Don't use any other Vibra-Tite product other than VC-3. I discovered this on an airgun forum. The airgunners use this on the threads of spring powered airguns that are notorious for vibration. It turned out to be better than blue Loc-Tite for screw retention.

So I decided to try it with the pistol suppressors. Follow the directions. Apply it to the threads then let it set for 15-20 minutes before installing the suppressor.

It dries to a rubbery flexible consistency but resists the vibration better than blue Loc-Tite. It is supposedly good for removing and installing a threaded part for about five times. However, I add just a little to the threads after I have cleaned the pistol and the suppressor.

I would avoid red Loc-Tite or Rocksett like the plague.

Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate

www.vibra-tite.com

Vibra-Tite VC-3 at Amazon

Is there a shelf life to this stuff? Trying to decide how much (how big a bottle) to buy. I think I mean shelf life inside the manufacturer's storage tube or bottle. Not a coated part. Never mind, I see it now: 5 years.

 

[alamo5000]

Griffin Cam Lok was made for this reason. I use them on my pistol barrels. Looks like an air hose fitting when the suppressor isn't attached but works well. Very fast to attach and doesn't loosen as you shoot. It's a taper attach device.

Just to let the OP know...there are two different types of these devices from Griffin. One is the Cam Lok and the other is the EZ Lok.

The difference is one is "QD" and the other is a little slower. The Cam Lok has interrupted threads. The EZ Lok does not.

I have used both and own both and the EZ Lok is more secure in my opinion.

 

[JR1200W3]

Just to let the OP know...there are two different types of these devices from Griffin. One is the Cam Lok and the other is the EZ Lok.

The difference is one is "QD" and the other is a little slower. The Cam Lok has interrupted threads. The EZ Lok does not.

I have used both and own both and the EZ Lok is more secure in my opinion.

Yeah, I've only used the Cam Lok and it works great. I guess some people complained it wasn't easy to install so they brought the Ez Lok out. I honestly can't find a fault in the Cam Lok.

https://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?12334-Cam-Lok-vs-EZ-Lok

 

[mebgardner]

Just to let the OP know...there are two different types of these devices from Griffin. One is the Cam Lok and the other is the EZ Lok.

The difference is one is "QD" and the other is a little slower. The Cam Lok has interrupted threads. The EZ Lok does not.

I have used both and own both and the EZ Lok is more secure in my opinion.

Looking at these Griffin mounting solutions. Two parts: Muzzle adaptor and suppressor side adaptor. The only suppressor side adaptor that I could make work for my non-Griffin, but industry standard "Plan A" type can (HUB 1.375"x24) would be the 0.500"x28 DT suppressor side adaptor.

I have a YHM piston and buffer for the 1.375"x24 suppressor side. That piston / buffer HUB ends in a 0.500"x28 hole that DTs onto the barrel.

The Griffin solution would add 3rd and 4th device parts onto to my current mounting. This feels "not best" for mounting stack up.

Am I missing something?

 

[mebgardner]

Off Topic, but I would like to ask the crowd interested in this thread:

I went looking for titanium buffers and pistons. I did not find *anything* in Ti for these parts, for 1.375x24 HUB compatible.

Anyone know a source?

 

[alamo5000]

Looking at these Griffin mounting solutions. Two parts: Muzzle adaptor and suppressor side adaptor. The only suppressor side adaptor that I could make work for my non-Griffin, but industry standard "Plan A" type can (HUB 1.375"x24) would be the 0.500"x28 DT suppressor side adaptor.

I have a YHM piston and buffer for the 1.375"x24 suppressor side. That piston / buffer HUB ends in a 0.500"x28 hole that DTs onto the barrel.

The Griffin solution would add 3rd and 4th device parts onto to my current mounting. This feels "not best" for mounting stack up.

Am I missing something?

It's not really adding 3 and 4 devices. The actual piston in the suppressor gets taken out and replaced 1:1 with a compatible piston. The only thing that is actually "added" is the tiny little muzzle device on the barrel.

What it helps with is having a much better lock up between the suppressor and barrel. It also eliminates the need to have different pistons for each host.

If you have a European firearm with weird left hand metric threads and then another with 1/2x28 you would need a wrench, a separate piston and break apart the suppressor in order to switch hosts.

With this one though you just move it back and forth at will and it takes less than a minute to take it off and put it on another gun.

 

[mebgardner]

It's not really adding 3 and 4 devices. The actual piston in the suppressor gets taken out and replaced 1:1 with a compatible piston. The only thing that is actually "added" is the tiny little muzzle device on the barrel.

What it helps with is having a much better lock up between the suppressor and barrel. It also eliminates the need to have different pistons for each host.

If you have a European firearm with weird left hand metric threads and then another with 1/2x28 you would need a wrench, a separate piston and break apart the suppressor in order to switch hosts.

With this one though you just move it back and forth at will and it takes less than a minute to take it off and put it on another gun.

OK, I got it. Understood. Swap the piston to an EZ-Lock variety or Cam-Lock type, and place a muzzle device on each barrel.

Thanks!

 

[JR1200W3]

The Cam Lok takes about 1 sec to install a suppressor. It breathes new life in the idea of suppressed pistols. Most people think suppressed pistols are a range novelty and completely impractical because you can't holster them. Sure, some companies are starting to make suppressor holsters but you still have an non concealable smokewagon hanging down your leg. With the Cam Lok I regularly go hiking in the mountains with a holstered pistol and a suppressor in a off side jacket pocket. It's fast enough that you can draw the pistol with one hand, grab the suppressor with the other, meet then together in front of your chest, install the can, and present the suppressed pistol all in one motion. Couple this mount with a compact suppressor like the FLY 9 in short mode and it's very practical

 

[mebgardner]

The Cam Lok takes about 1 sec to install a suppressor. It breathes new life in the idea of suppressed pistols. Most people think suppressed pistols are a range novelty and completely impractical because you can't holster them. Sure, some companies are starting to make suppressor holsters but you still have an non concealable smokewagon hanging down your leg. With the Cam Lok I regularly go hiking in the mountains with a holstered pistol and a suppressor in a off side jacket pocket. It's fast enough that you can draw the pistol with one hand, grab the suppressor with the other, meet then together in front of your chest, install the can, and present the suppressed pistol all in one motion. Couple this mount with a compact suppressor like the FLY 9 in short mode and it's very practical

In that light, this is beginning to look like a pretty good idea. Solves my barrel thread unlocking problem, too. I watched the Griffin 'Tube. No thread locker advised on the muzzle device.

 

[mebgardner]

Couple this mount with a compact suppressor like the FLY 9 in short mode and it's very practical

I looked at the Fly-9 and it became one of two remaining choices. It lost in favor of the OCL Lithium, because the Fly was Alpha threaded, not Bravo.

I needed Bravo for forward compatibility with other stuff.

 

[JR1200W3]

That's a weird criteria. I think you're hyperfixating on details that really aren't that important. The Fly 9 and Lithium are two different cans imo. The lithium looks like it's trying to double duty as a pistol and subgun can. When I want a pistol can, ai want a pistol can. When I want a Subgun can, I want a big quiet subgun can. Example: instead of trying to buy one can for both, I bought the FLY 9 and a GSL Phoenix.

 

[mebgardner]

That's a weird criteria. I think you're hyperfixating on details that really aren't that important. The Fly 9 and Lithium are two different cans imo. The lithium looks like it's trying to double duty as a pistol and subgun can. When I want a pistol can, ai want a pistol can. When I want a Subgun can, I want a big quiet subgun can. Example: instead of trying to buy one can for both, I bought the FLY 9 and a GSL Phoenix.

Thus speaks the voice of experience.

You are probably right. I did make these choices before coming to this community. Most of my previous experience are the result of decisions in isolation, without benefit of community.

So far, I'm OK with the choice of Bravo mount for everything I want to use. It's not best for pistol, I recognize that. It's a bit "fat" in width. But I can see over the top of Lithium using my Holosun HE507 RDS. That, and I can move Lithium from 300 aac pistol directly to 9mm pistol with no restrictions.

It may seem weird, and I dont mind hearing from experienced hands, but this works for me.

 

[mebgardner]

It's not really adding 3 and 4 devices. The actual piston in the suppressor gets taken out and replaced 1:1 with a compatible piston. The only thing that is actually "added" is the tiny little muzzle device on the barrel.

What it helps with is having a much better lock up between the suppressor and barrel. It also eliminates the need to have different pistons for each host.

If you have a European firearm with weird left hand metric threads and then another with 1/2x28 you would need a wrench, a separate piston and break apart the suppressor in order to switch hosts.

With this one though you just move it back and forth at will and it takes less than a minute to take it off and put it on another gun.

Looking at the HUB / Bravo thread suppressor side of this, Griffin offers a HUB Booster in steel , with an aluminum spring / piston retainer nut.

Should I be reluctant to accept that (possibly galling) aluminum to steel thread interface?

1.375x24 Booster Housing

9mm & 45cal booster housing assembly

www.griffinarmament.com

 

[alamo5000]

Looking at the HUB / Bravo thread suppressor side of this, Griffin offers a HUB Booster in steel , with an aluminum spring / piston retainer nut.

Should I be reluctant to accept that (possibly galling) aluminum to steel thread interface?

1.375x24 Booster Housing

9mm & 45cal booster housing assembly

www.griffinarmament.com

No. Not at all. Many 9mm suppressors have a steel housing matched up to an aluminum tube.

 

[mebgardner]

No. Not at all. Many 9mm suppressors have a steel housing matched up to an aluminum tube.

Thanks. Good!