Night Vision Hunting with NODs. Lessons learned, questions, and or advice. Share setups

[Creature]

So I got out and did a little bit of calling last night with my new NV setup and realized I have a lot to learn. One is that I'm going to need a IR illuminator. It was pretty cloudy and dark last night and it was pretty tough to get very good visibility where I was calling. To top that off, the IR light on my weapon mounted device was blocked by the frame of my Eotech and was rendered useless.

Do animal's eyes reflect from IR light?

What kind of setup are you guys running for hunting predators at night? Are you using weapon mounted NODs or helmet mounted? I used a weapon mounted setup and found that it was a real PITA to scan the area with the rifle. I'm sure scanning with a FLIR would be the way to go but that is not within my reach at the moment.

Is it more difficult to get an accurate shot using a IR laser? Would a weapon mounted setup be more conducive to accuracy?

Please share any useful information you could think of in terms of hunting with NODs. I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[TheGerman]

So I got out and did a little bit of calling last night with my new NV setup and realized I have a lot to learn. One is that I'm going to need a IR illuminator. It was pretty cloudy and dark last night and it was pretty tough to get very good visibility where I was calling. To top that off, the IR light on my weapon mounted device was blocked by the frame of my Eotech and was rendered useless.

Do animal's eyes reflect from IR light?

What kind of setup are you guys running for hunting predators at night? Are you using weapon mounted NODs or helmet mounted? I used a weapon mounted setup and found that it was a real PITA to scan the area with the rifle. I'm sure scanning with a FLIR would be the way to go but that is not within my reach at the moment.

Is it more difficult to get an accurate shot using a IR laser? Would a weapon mounted setup be more conducive to accuracy?

Please share any useful information you could think of in terms of hunting with NODs. I would greatly appreciate it.

PVS14 mounted on a Crye Airframe
16" AR or MK12Mod1 with EoTech
AN/PEQ2A on right side rail of weapon with tape switch on top rail

Only other illumination I use is a VIP IR/green light that is corded to the harness of my hydro carrier but that is mainly for general lighting purposes and not for acquiring a target. I think the IR light in the PVS isn't good past 25 feet anyways.

First off, even if you get FLIR, its great for seeing whats out there but you will still need the NV to use in conjunction with your weapon to shoot your target so you'll still need to learn how to do all of this.

You want to go helmet mounted. This gives you the option to see all of the time instead of just when you bring the weapon up to your face. Imagine trekking around at night and having to hold your weapon up the entire time to see anything; plus thinking you see something and then bringing your weapon up to track/engage it with nightvision and no laser is not very effective and fast.

Didn't I send you a RHINO mount?!?

Sight in your laser with your EOTech reticle at 50/200. When you see something and want to engage it, if it is 'close' I normally use the laser and ignore the EOtech reticle. For farther (because the laser is centered at 50/200) I allow the laser to get me out there and try to finesse with the EOTech reticle ; but its nighttime and we're using a PVS14 on our helmet, so long distance shots for especially hunting are poor practice. Once you have a laser and its sighted in, shooting at night at short/medium distances becomes easy mode.

Practice at night with a helmet mounted PVS14. You will need to bring your stock all the way back and it will feel very weird if you are used to shooting NTCH. Then learn where your head needs to be and how to get it through the EOTech without bashing your PVS14 into the rail or BUIS. Keep doing this, and you'll be able to get a quick sight picture without having to mount anything on your weapon. The laser will then help you at this point to in conjunction with the illuminator, hit whatever is in that sight picture.

If you can't get something like a PEQ2A or any of the other restricted items, look into a DBAL or the "V" model Surefire lights. If I had to pick between an illuminator or a laser, while I cringe at the thought of being without a laser, if you can't see anything its worthless so I'd get an illuminator as you still have your EOTech.

 

[Creature]

PVS14 mounted on a Crye Airframe
16" AR or MK12Mod1 with EoTech
AN/PEQ2A on right side rail of weapon with tape switch on top rail

Only other illumination I use is a VIP IR/green light that is corded to the harness of my hydro carrier but that is mainly for general lighting purposes and not for acquiring a target. I think the IR light in the PVS isn't good past 25 feet anyways.

First off, even if you get FLIR, its great for seeing whats out there but you will still need the NV to use in conjunction with your weapon to shoot your target so you'll still need to learn how to do all of this.

You want to go helmet mounted. This gives you the option to see all of the time instead of just when you bring the weapon up to your face. Imagine trekking around at night and having to hold your weapon up the entire time to see anything; plus thinking you see something and then bringing your weapon up to track/engage it with nightvision and no laser is not very effective and fast.

Didn't I send you a RHINO mount?!?

Sight in your laser with your EOTech reticle at 50/200. When you see something and want to engage it, if it is 'close' I normally use the laser and ignore the EOtech reticle. For farther (because the laser is centered at 50/200) I allow the laser to get me out there and try to finesse with the EOTech reticle ; but its nighttime and we're using a PVS14 on our helmet, so long distance shots for especially hunting are poor practice. Once you have a laser and its sighted in, shooting at night at short/medium distances becomes easy mode.

Practice at night with a helmet mounted PVS14. You will need to bring your stock all the way back and it will feel very weird if you are used to shooting NTCH. Then learn where your head needs to be and how to get it through the EOTech without bashing your PVS14 into the rail or BUIS. Keep doing this, and you'll be able to get a quick sight picture without having to mount anything on your weapon. The laser will then help you at this point to in conjunction with the illuminator, hit whatever is in that sight picture.

If you can't get something like a PEQ2A or any of the other restricted items, look into a DBAL or the "V" model Surefire lights. If I had to pick between an illuminator or a laser, while I cringe at the thought of being without a laser, if you can't see anything its worthless so I'd get an illuminator as you still have your EOTech.

Thanks a bunch for the reply German, you've been a big help. I got your RHINO mount and my J arm. I should get my Crimson Trace IR rail master and pro-tec helmet today. The only thing I need now is a illuminator. I'd like to get the TNVC, Dbal, or PEQ, but they are out of reach at the moment financially. I've been looking at the Streamlight SuperTac IR, Streamlight TL-2 IR, and Streamlights IR weapon light. My budget is around $100 at this point. I'd like to get an illuminator that has a decent wide flood setting so I can light up a larger area closer in. What do you think would be my best option in this price range?

Also, would it be better to mount the IR illuminator on my rifle or helmet? If it was on the rifle I'd still be needing to "scan" with it.

Thanks again for the help, I've been in the dark with all this stuff up until this point.

 

[TheGerman]

Thanks a bunch for the reply German, you've been a big help. I got your RHINO mount and my J arm. I should get my Crimson Trace IR rail master and pro-tec helmet today. The only thing I need now is a illuminator. I'd like to get the TNVC, Dbal, or PEQ, but they are out of reach at the moment financially. I've been looking at the Streamlight SuperTac IR, Streamlight TL-2 IR, and Streamlights IR weapon light. My budget is around $100 at this point. I'd like to get an illuminator that has a decent wide flood setting so I can light up a larger area closer in. What do you think would be my best option in this price range?

Also, would it be better to mount the IR illuminator on my rifle or helmet? If it was on the rifle I'd still be needing to "scan" with it.

Thanks again for the help, I've been in the dark with all this stuff up until this point.

I honestly have zero knowledge about any of the Streamlight stuff but I am sure you'll have people on here that do.

I've always had the IR on my weapon because its either been a flashlight type body or a rail mount box like the PEQ which are too big/bulky for a helmet. I know the PRoTec has rails on the sides so you COULD do a helmet mount, but I've never done anything on the helmet other than a personal light. In my experience it won't be on all of the time anyways as it would drain the battery very quickly and they can be friggen bright!

I don't think there's a definitive answer to where it goes, so experiment. I've just always had them on my rifle.

Another option for a light would be to look into an older Surefire M951 with the IR filter. These aren't the latest and greatest and don't illuminate hundreds of yards, but for your use and budget these would work as they can be found with the IR filter and mount for <$100 - but I am completely unsure how it would compare to any of the Streamlights you mentioned.

 

[softcock]

I never done the streamlight or any of the IR filter covers over white light flashlight .
For a small budget like 100-$ in your post . The small Surefire M1 infrared (IR). is one of the best tools for scanning out for ( eyes ) when hunting .
I am NOT talking about Weapons IR illumination & getting the shot . I am talking about scanning & looking for getting the eyes to Pop/reflect . With a fresh battery it will do out to 200 yrd. for Popping Eyes .
After doing a call for coyotes you need to be constantly scanning for them coming-in . it is GOOD for that because, it is small light weight/fast/hand held /in your budget/& eyes really Pop out in the distance . that gets you the precious extra seconds needed to set-up for your shot .

My line of thought for hunting & NV on the head . quality IR is the best friend you got for you and the rifle . I walk-out the house @ nigh with a surefire m1 IR on a lanyard in my coat pocket . IR on a lanyard around the neck for long range field scanning & a IR on the rifle for the shot .
You just gong to have to get a lot of hours in & work at it with the NV/IR and hunting and making the shot happen in your favor . & It all becomes easier with more hours you put-in after dark working on foot travel, calling, ID animals out in the distance & 'shooting' .
.

 

[the impactzone]

when hunting with a dedicated NV scope I will use a tripod to shoot and scan from making it a lot easier on a coyote stand if I have and idea of the approach, it really works well and find it nice to scan on the gun fro those coyotes that make a run by, set up is normally from under a tree or against thick brush / tree line to break up the outline. Thermal to locate NV to id and shoot is my rule of thumb.

 

[Asm1]

have success ambushing coyotes better than calling in my AO, however pre scouting to find there path has best results, They travel the same paths like clock work. I use Dual tube night vision of many types along with eotech or aimpoint,simply lean in and fire like normal,The Dbal-D2 works perfect for spotting and aiming from two point slung weapon position, the D2 has a focusable illuminator with HI/low power setting And Two aiming lasers in visible And IR that are slaved to adjust as one, zeroing the visible laser aimer to the primary optic easy, switch to IR laser aimer and you are zeroed and ready to hunt, no shooting needed to verify zero.The IR illuminator will reflect eyes and illuminate the lower light spots and makes target ID easier , I also keep a 3x lens handy to ID targets. A hand held thermal helps allot to spot and find downed prey. A pvs14 is handy with a laser,but not as handy when using dot optics the dual tube are in there own class. have clip ons thermals and weapons scopes,but i use the same equipment to hunt hogs as i mentioned above and leave the rest at home. A good weapons scope or thermal do work well,but i am a danger close shooter and get the thrill and normally multiple kills when working close to the action. Lasers take getting use to and some do better than others using them. coyotes that get away the one you didn't see,now are educated to the game and know what to look for,shining LED or close to visible illuminators and coyotes knows be wary .this is why i hunt Close quarters to get the smart ones, but pre educated to the game, I shoot at the last possible moment some times feet away,this approach is better chance killing two or more and not teaching them your game. More i do it better i get at it and closer they come....

 

[the impactzone]

I have also found some coyote to be light shy of IR (looks like a moped tail light)and do not turn it on till I have a suspect in the thermal, had one hang up at 410, not far enough but on the walk back could see the IR light and have changed my approach

 

[SkyPup]

Good information here from all.

If you do not already have a FLIR handheld PS-32 or LS-64, you will easily see ten times more coyotes with one than when just using NV.

I have used weapon mounted NV Eotech, NV ACOG with PVS-14 mounted on the rifle, but even better than that is either a DBAL-D2 vis and IR laser with Illuminator or a DBAL-I2 with a TorchPro IR Illuminator with the PVS-14 mounted on your helmet for situational awareness and shooting the 'yotes off the IR laser.

Basically, scan using FLIR handheld thermal with your helmet mounted PVS-14 on, when you pick up a heat signature, use the helmet mounted PVS-14 and the weapon mounted IR laser to take out the coyote.


Like German said, use your Eotech to sight in your laser at 50 yards and 200 yards, you will be good to go out to 225 yards with a 5.56mm round.

Like IZ said, don't overuse the IR Illuminator, there eyes will light up with the IR but they can see the lower wavelength red glow from the IR LED Illuminator and can spook from that, they DO NOT see the IR laser at all though as it is not an LED based beam and does not give off any visible light.

 

[Delta4-3]

Streamlight supertac IR is awesome for the money.

 

[Asm1]

Streamlight supertac IR is awesome for the money.

Agreed! Its a beast of beam...

 

[Creature]

Streamlight supertac IR is awesome for the money.

Now it isn't just a regular flashlight with just a filter over it is it?

I have a Surefire 951 weapon light with an IR filter and it almost isn't even worth using...

I think I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these streamlight supertacs

 

[HTR707]

After 10 years of professional night time hunting with thermal and NV, I have found the following things to be consistently true:

1) the PVS 14 is the best non-thermal scanning device, and can be used on the helmet, in conjunction with an IR laser, or with 3X magnifier, weapon mounted, but this is not optimal. Sweeping a weapon around to spot, is inefficient and not very safe.

2) using an IR laser to aim is definitely not as precise as a weapon mounted device like a 4X D-740 with Gen 3 tube. Having the reticule in the D-740 saves you a good bit of trouble with multiple devices, (thus more glass to diminish your light transmission) and is very easy to use.

4) thermal is in a whole different universe versus NV in terms of spotting animals. It isn't even close. You will see 10X as many living things with thermal as you would with NV.

5) the Streamlight supertac IR is a great value, but it does not have a focus-able beam like the Torch Pro Ir illuminator. For about a hundred bucks more, you get the beam focus feature, which is well worth it.


All in all, if you pare your setup down to just a D-740 on the rifle and save all the money you'd otherwise spend on IR lasers, helmets, mounts and optical magnifiers....and buy a thermal device, you will be miles ahead, with a very simple setup. Scan with the thermal, and when you are in range, light the animal up with the Torch pro (if necessary), and shoot. You won't always need the IR so you have to judge whether its worth it to throw that light out there. If I have moonlight, I don't use it.

Hope that helps

 

[SkyPup]

This 'yote was shot at 175 yards using an NV Eotech/ DBAL-I2 IR laser with IR illuminator after first picking his thermal signature up with a FLIR PS-32, I had the PVS-14 mounted on my helmet to use the IR laser:

Same setup works during daylight without the NV on if you have a visible green laser or just the Eotech:

 

[the impactzone]

one of my first Cats with FLIR 32 and D760 spot/ID, and shoot from tripod

yes Dedicated NV is heavy but so is my brother, I run with Torch Pro IR , the 410 coyote was taken under two of them, but one was all that was needed to make the shot

 

[Delta4-3]

Now it isn't just a regular flashlight with just a filter over it is it?

I have a Surefire 951 weapon light with an IR filter and it almost isn't even worth using...

I think I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these streamlight supertacs

No sir, it's a real deal illuminator. Ir filters suck the big hairy on a white light.

 

[Creature]

I just ordered the Streamlight Super Tac IR from LA Police gear. I'm hoping it has enough wide flood to light up the immediate area around me.

Got my helmet and Crimson Trace IR laser in and setup. Just fine tuning the helmet a bit.

It will be nice to be able to rest the gun on my lap while sitting/calling and take shots. I'll have to practice comfortable/steady positions for calling.

 

[UNCIVILIZED]

Good info, thanks for passing it along guys.

 

[TheGerman]

I just ordered the Streamlight Super Tac IR from LA Police gear. I'm hoping it has enough wide flood to light up the immediate area around me.

Got my helmet and Crimson Trace IR laser in and setup. Just fine tuning the helmet a bit.

It will be nice to be able to rest the gun on my lap while sitting/calling and take shots. I'll have to practice comfortable/steady positions for calling.

You'll shoot while seated 90% of the time unless you actively engage them at closer range and plan to engage multiple animals at a time. Otherwise if you are wanting to get that 1 shot to take a single one down, most likely with terrain a major factor, you'll shoot from the sitting.

 

[HTR707]

Agree that you are likely to shoot from the sitting position. However, there may be times when the animal is obscured by tall grass, and you may have to stand up to see enough of the body to get a shot. Also, be aware that if you have vegetation between you and the animal, your IR will reflect back to you, and the laser will be diffracted. Without magnification, this is a tough shot. If the vegetation is wet, or you have any fog, the effect is much worse.

I shoot most of my animals with a dedicated 4 X scope, because when you wear the PVS-14 on the helmet, you are now at 1X mag. Magnification helps identify the animal, and to place the bullet. I see lots of guys miss hogs at 100 yards with the laser because they just can't see the pig well enough with the PVS-14 on the helmet, and they shoot for COM but that's not good enough for most pigs, because you often hit them in the liver.

For varmints, its not that big a deal, because a 40 grain VMax going 3800 FPS will kill them even when not hit that precisely. But, if you are going to hunt hogs, you have to place the bullet.

All things to consider...

 

[softcock]

when hunting with a dedicated NV scope I will use a tripod to shoot and scan from making it a lot easier on a coyote stand if I have and idea of the approach, it really works well and find it nice to scan on the gun fro those coyotes that make a run by, set up is normally from under a tree or against thick brush / tree line to break up the outline. Thermal to locate NV to id and shoot is my rule of thumb.

-
This also . ( for me ) I will kill 90% of my coyotes standing with Rifle off tri-pod .
Only time I Sit & shot is with a ( Walk & Scout ) & when I spot I will immediately sit with a extra-long bi-pod to get the shot . Or when I am in fear of being highlighted without being backed by Night-shade or back cover.

Rifle on Tri-Pod @ night, I have superior field of view with standing .
I have superior waist & head flexibility over sitting, for scanning with standing with rifle on tri-pod .
Rifle is pre-set in the ready right in front of me leaving me hands off .
NO bloom of IR off ground grass/foliage and surface fog .
.

 

[ncorry]

The Super Tac is not going to be good for navigation or anything up close. It's just too damn strong, and bulky too. I have one, and then I got the TL2-IR, and it's almost as strong as the SuperTac, but half the size. For navigation on my helmet, I use the Streamlight Sidewinder Compact. It has four LEDS in different colors, one of which is an IR. Each LED has three or four output settings and casts a flood beam. For $50, it's a great deal and works great for what is was made for. Have one on each helmet. If you find the SuperTac is too powerful for you, you can put a couple of pieces of electrical tape in the center of the lens, or get a Butler Creek cap for it and drill out holes, and when you need 500 yards of illumination, flip the cap open.

For those of you running tripods, got any suggestions on make and model?

 

[the impactzone]

my Tripod is a PRS precession rifle solutions it will adjust from prone to full standing, have had a few others like the primos and they have not held up

 

[Hooper]

An AR15 in 5.56mm with the following setup will bring home a lot of fur.

Aimpoint COMP M2 NV compatible
PVS14
NO K2 PRO Illuminator

I like less magnification for all around shooting. Most of the time targets are running so the field of view is important. So the AIMPOINT is great. 200 yd shots @ night are easily taken.

 

[Delta4-3]

^^^^ there is a guy with some experience. Are you still making cans Hoop?

 

[Delta4-3]

Agreed on all counts.

The Super Tac is not going to be good for navigation or anything up close. It's just too damn strong, and bulky too. I have one, and then I got the TL2-IR, and it's almost as strong as the SuperTac, but half the size. For navigation on my helmet, I use the Streamlight Sidewinder Compact. It has four LEDS in different colors, one of which is an IR. Each LED has three or four output settings and casts a flood beam. For $50, it's a great deal and works great for what is was made for. Have one on each helmet. If you find the SuperTac is too powerful for you, you can put a couple of pieces of electrical tape in the center of the lens, or get a Butler Creek cap for it and drill out holes, and when you need 500 yards of illumination, flip the cap open.

For those of you running tripods, got any suggestions on make and model?

 

[SkyPup]

^^^^ there is a guy with some experience. Are you still making cans Hoop?

Yup, he is and I'm about to order three or four of them from him.

 

[Creature]

my Tripod is a PRS precession rifle solutions it will adjust from prone to full standing, have had a few others like the primos and they have not held up

What connection point do you use for attaching the rifle to the tripod?

A lot of good info in here gents, thanks a bunch.

 

[shooter6.5]

I have a similar set up as impactzone. Large tripod and ssp-1. I do not attach the rifle to the tripod. I lay the rifle in there and it adds tremendous stability to my shooting. I seldom take it to the field anymore as it is just more gear to carry. If I am planning on shooting from a hide then I take it and use it, however most of my shooting is walking or mobile. If you want to add even more stability then put some hard foam in the cradle. Works well.

My tripod gets used more at the range now than anywhere else.

 

[softcock]

Every hunter uses what he knows & practices the best in technique.

Tripod shooting @ night for a fixed position, I am a firm believer in & practitioner of for long time .
There are lots of Tricks for standing shooting off Tripod in the field & learning how to hide and ( Hiding ) yourself in the Darkest No-Ambient spots in the dark night is the main key, with awareness to No highlighting & back lighting also .
In No Moon . I have stood in the middle of 100 Acre open grass fields with Ankle high grass . I was NOT backlighting myself from city or farm house Ambient was the key trick & No Moon . I called and shoot Coyotes . They know something is there but my main goal was to get them in there 100 t0 150 max. yard comfort zone where they will stop or go into half circling me on a trot & stop . you just have to know the tricks and get practice in picking your window & pulling the trigger .

My rifles I use is connected to the Tripod for hands free . Mounted a QD Pic. Rail release, tap & threaded to a Bogen quick release Head plate .
Connects & holds in-place to bottom of Pic. Rail on rifle . I used to use AR but past few years I been using a XLR Chassis system . But if you were using a Traditional rifle Stock . You would need to buy one of those Adj. clamp rifle cradles to secure for hands free.
Tripod gets carried around in a pouch with carry handle or PAL's webbing to the Pack . I use the extra long leg Harris with a Pic.Rail quick release lever for the occasional sit & shoot . But I easily flip it off & on & connect to the Tripod were I hunt 90% of the time .
You can use the QD Pic. Rail off the Bogen Head Plates connection to quickly go from extra long leg Harris to rifle mounted off Tripod in seconds . or even use D760 mounted to a Pic. Rail to then connect to the Tripod for field scanning after you park the vehicle .
.

 

[Hooper]

If you get used to the tripod, what are you going to do when you do not have one?

Too much crap to carry around. Learn to shoot off hand.

 

[softcock]

If you get used to the tripod, what are you going to do when you do not have one?

Too much crap to carry around. Learn to shoot off hand.

-
Ye of little faith
.

 

[the impactzone]

Hooper
I shoot from the cradle of the tri-pod not attached to the rifle because every shot offered may not be in my planning , depends on the terrain I’m hunting, each stand is different , and not every stand requires all the equipment. Some I may walk in 200 -400 yards and bring tripod and chair, others I may walk in 100 yards, two mouth calls and the rifle only shooting over a 5’ hay bale. I’ve shot coyotes from the front seat of the truck and over the hood, didn’t bother me a bit, I’ll use any rest I can to make the shot count, I have favorite stands that I know have an ideal fence post to shoot from, one that has resulted in 2 coyotes 1 bobcat and several javelin .

I don’t know how long your night hunts are or the terrain, mine are pastures from 100-1000 yards I generally start around 10pm when it has cooled off and will hunt from 4 hours to 9 hours. Having done this for a while, I have found that in the long haul, I get better results and more hits if I shoot from a Tri-pod. Reason being, a typical stand go’s like this.
Walk in to a location scouted during the day, set up and start calling, scanning with LS64 on head mount, locate a heat source, and go to the NV scope to ID, find that it is a rabbit, armadillo, deer, cattle or coon, again find heat source and again go to the scope to ID, this go’s on for the next 20-45 minutes going to the gun 5-10 times a stand And this will happen for the next 5-25 stands. That’s a lot of reps with a 15lb rifle, (done it don’t care to do it again) So my thought is it’s a lot easier to pack in a 3lb tri-pod for 5 minutes than it is to lift a 15lb rifle all night long
I can say that two times a tri-pod helped make a positive Id on a Horn Owl that looked like a Bobcat, and a Bobcat that looked like a Horn Owl. I don’t shoot at eyes only!
Shoot off hand, I do it, and I practice it, but I’ll take a rest over it every time

 

[softcock]

Imp.zone
..." Owl that looked like a Bobcat ".
-
YES Funny you should mention that and SOooooo True .
I always got shitloads of owls over my countryside . Owls always fly over & buzzing my head or going to my call or my remote call . About a year back I was backed-up against a fence line with small scrub trees in a cattle pasture & was in a low spot so I could see anything coming at me over the horizon line against the night ambient back light . Owls were hooting like crazy back & forth between adjacent pastures trees .
I saw a figure walk up & present it's Silhouette to me, head pop-up at top of the hill line about 150 yard out . It was round head 2 pointy ears and round head with angled body shape and 2 big eyes glowing like a Cat . Looked like a Bob sitting on his haunches and looking right at me .
This stand I am looking up hill slightly the whole time at it and waiting & studying my shot strategies . Then it start walks off to the right several yards & sits. then walks back left for some yards and sits and is watching me . Then it turns and walks back over the hill line out of my eye sight . so I shut myself down on my shot mode and made a couple calls .
Then it walked back to me over the hill line & presented itself with same silhouette stopped and watched me . Then it starts to walk right at me . then it gets closer & closer . then finally I see that it's a big fucking Horned Owl .
Never saw it fly-in & never saw it fly off . I never saw anything like it . I guess that badboy just walks & strolls to survey and hunt his domain, Was BIG . but off over 100+ yards out & looking up-hill I thought it was a bigass Bobcat . Came really close to popping his ass .
.

 

[the impactzone]

I keep an eye out for Owls, this one hovered over this coyote while he make his way in 400 yards in tall grass only giving a glimpse from time to time, My brother and I argued after the first Owl/Bobcat false ID for over 20 minutes me on thermal him on D760 looking through a brush line , till I said screw it it's a cat and lucky for me it was but for 20 minutes he ignored it saying just another Owl

 

[Creature]

I got dragged to the thrift store today by my lady and managed to score a really light weight, slim, and sturdy tripod today for $3. I put a good amount of pressure on it from multiple positions and with it extended and I think it will work good. It is very adjustable and looks a lot like the $100 one made for shooting.

Where are you guys finding the cradle mount for the tripod? I like the idea of the cradle mount so I can take the gun off tripod and blast something up close if needed.

In regards to the bobcats/coyotes getting followed by owls, I've seen hawks follow them too. It's always a good sign when the birds of prey start showing up. I've had an owl land on my call and sit there for a few minutes. Hawks have flown in multiple times but usually figure it out at about 10ft and bug out.

Here is the tripod I got. I just need to get a rest for it. I'm trying to do things on the cheap and am thinking about how i could build one. ANY IDEAS? Anyway here is the attachment point:

 

[softcock]

I figure @ night if you get owls coming-in to your call or remote your doing good on your part . Lot of time I never even hear them when they hover over top a buzz my head . Sometimes real close 'never hear them' , just see a shadow pass ground next to me .
unbelievable Amazing how quiet those thinks are . I think Owls are pretty territorial also when other things come into there grounds & hunt . Half time I think there Pissed-Off when they come over head @ night & screech @ me, @ times they been so close to my head & screech I damn near jump out my boots when it's dead quiet & you concentrating on what your doing .
.

 

[the impactzone]

creature,
try a pice of alum channel say 2x2 and drill and tap for your screw and hot glue some thin carpet

 

[Creature]

creature,
try a pice of alum channel say 2x2 and drill and tap for your screw and hot glue some thin carpet

Bingo, thanks for the idea. I knew there was a reason i bought that drill and tap set.

 

[Killswitch Engage]

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/snipers-hide-d-i-y/177086-tripod-saddle.html

 

[Creature]

Got the Streamlight SuperTac IR in today. I tested it out briefly in the basement. I only looked through the NOD at the light for a few seconds and noticed a honeycomb/chicken wire start to appear and quickly shut it down. I took that to mean I shouldn't be using this thing it inclosed areas(which I wasn't going to do anyway). Can a bright IR light damage NODs? What kind of filter would I need to protect from that? I have a sacrificial window at the moment.

 

[Killswitch Engage]

Super tac has mega balls and I would not recommend it at all inside of 100yds. It's just retarded powerful. I bought a butler creek cap that fits over the bell on the light and bored a 5/8" hole it for close in work below 100yd. Works great. I also use my ard off of my vortex razor under the butler cap. Just so happens to fit perfectly and helps as well with IR emission and breaks up the "red" if your looking at it.

 

[Creature]

So can bright IR light(like from the Streamlight SuperTac) damage NODs? If so is there any kind of filter that I could use to protect it from damage?

 

[Killswitch Engage]

I would think the abc circuit in your unit should protect it from sporadic bright light but tubes can be damaged from bright ir source just the same as visible light. Try to keep it to a minimum

 

[Creature]

Would an IR filter help protect the device?

 

[TheGerman]

Got the Streamlight SuperTac IR in today. I tested it out briefly in the basement. I only looked through the NOD at the light for a few seconds and noticed a honeycomb/chicken wire start to appear and quickly shut it down. I took that to mean I shouldn't be using this thing it inclosed areas(which I wasn't going to do anyway). Can a bright IR light damage NODs? What kind of filter would I need to protect from that? I have a sacrificial window at the moment.

Short answer is yes they can damage them.

However, I am guessing yours are autogated and Gen 3. If so, the bright light won't make it feel like your retina is about to explode and it will take some time for a bright exposure to do any damage to the tube. With that said, what you did is ok and nothing will come out of it but obviously don't leave it on for 20 minutes like that either. If you're going to be in something that enclosed you have better options anyways.

Worst case you do look at something too long, you can usually get rid of any blotches/chickenwire by turning the unit on, putting the day cover on it and leaving it running all night.

 

[Creature]

Thanks a bunch German, big help as always.

So, I had my first trip out last nigh where I was actually able to do some calling. With a monocular throwing off depth perception would it be bad to get into position with a flashlight? It's just seems so much easier to see changes in the terrain/elevation with both eyes and a flashlight than with one eye and a monocular. This question mainly goes to the coyote/predator hunters. I'm specifically wondering if the visible light will spook animals.

I was able to use the Streamlight SuperTac last night and that thing is the shit. I was just using it to scan the tree line every few minutes and it worked great. My only gripe is that it would be easier to have a pressure pad. As far as the Crimson Trace IR is concerned, the 5min shutoff is kind of annoying. Towards the end of my first set I just started leaving it off. I imagine it doesn't have super long battery life so I understand. So if an animal was to appear I would have to turn on the IR laser and illuminator, not optimal.

I have a good amount of experience hunting predators during the day but this is another ball of wax. I need to read into what calls are more useful at night. Coyotes are definitely more social at night and I'm wondering if it would be better to use a coyote sounds rather than distress sounds. Either way I think I might be getting off subject for the NV section and might post something about it in hunting.

Thanks again for all the help gents.

 

[Killswitch Engage]

Visible lights can spook game for sure. Spend some time wondering around with your nods on and you will become familiar and used to navigating various terrain. You get use to it.

They make a pressure switch and weapons mount for the super tac.

i have had the best luck calling coyotes at night and tend to stick to distress and or pup whine/distress especially right now. Coyotes are much more active at night and much more apt to respond to a call since they are generally on patrol already anyhow. Night vision hunting is generally very dynamic and things happen quickly so you have to have your head on a swivel constantly.

 

[MitchInOR]

I have my Super Tac mounted on the left side of my handguard in an offset mount with the light up. It's very easy to push the tail cap switch with my thumb for momentary lighting or to click on for constant lighting. With my hand in the same position, the pressure switch for my Lasermax uni-ir is on the right side of the hand guard. I keep a Solarforce ir flashlight easily accessible for quick closer in lighting if needed.

 

[Creature]

I have my Super Tac mounted on the left side of my handguard in an offset mount with the light up. It's very easy to push the tail cap switch with my thumb for momentary lighting or to click on for constant lighting. With my hand in the same position, the pressure switch for my Lasermax uni-ir is on the right side of the hand guard. I keep a Solarforce ir flashlight easily accessible for quick closer in lighting if needed.

I got the pressure pad for my SuperTac on the way. I'm thinking I will probably just keep my Crimson Trace IR laser on all the time. I'll just get an extra battery in case it runs out of juice.

I like the idea of having another IR light for closer up stuff. I have a smaller light too that I've tried to mount on my Protec helmet but it seems as though the Picatinny rail is mounted in such a way that points it downwards.

On a separate note I've found a way to scare owls off if they're fucking with the call. Shine the IR laser in their eyes. Usually I leave them be as they'd draw in other predators but when they mess with the call they have to go. I've had them land on the call and turn it off. Also had them dent a call once.