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Sidearms & Scatterguns Is it normal for a 4" 1911 to eject brass straight back?

Smithcollector

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Oct 24, 2009
    173
    23
    Georgia
    I feel stupid for asking this. I only have 1 Commander-type 1911, a Kimber Pro Eclipse II. It has never jammed or given me any trouble, except for ejecting brass almost perfectly between my eyes. Not every shot, but at least 1 per magazine. I've done some internet searching, with responses varying from re shaping the ejector to "wear a hat, that's normal". In the experience of posters here, is this normal behavior? Or is it an easy fix for Kimber or a 1911 smith?
     
    My stepdad has a Kimber covert 2 thats a 4 inch gun and it does the same thing. I've read that it's due to bad grip and so on but I am a very experienced shooter and this is the only gun him or I have any issues with. I have changed the ejector and extractor and all the springs. I even had my gunsmith work on it. Nothing has worked. I will tell you this though he told kimber what he had tried which is just replacement parts no actual metal taking off or anything and they told him that voided the warranty and they would charge him to look at it. That makes me believe that they may know about the issue and don't want to either have to replace the gun or do extensive work on it. He loves the gun so he keeps is he just makes sure he uses safety glasses when shooting it and he doesn't use it for CCW.
     
    I've had several guns do this over the years. Often it's the brass hitting the back edge of the ejection port and ricocheting off the front edge and bouncing straight back. Check the inside edges of the ejection port for brass marks.

    I generally solve it by changing the ejection angle so it makes it out the port without impacting. Changing the recoil spring weight will alter the cycle speed of the slide and reshaping the face of the ejector will change the ejection angle of the brass. A longer ejector will start the brass rotation earlier as long as you have the right tension on the extractor and a proper grip on the pistol.

    Several options depending on exactly what is happening with your pistol. If you are not sure, having someone film the case ejection will let you know exactly what is happening. Hard for the case to come straight back without some kind of slide impact.
     
    I feel stupid for asking this. I only have 1 Commander-type 1911, a Kimber Pro Eclipse II. It has never jammed or given me any trouble, except for ejecting brass almost perfectly between my eyes. Not every shot, but at least 1 per magazine. I've done some internet searching, with responses varying from re shaping the ejector to "wear a hat, that's normal". In the experience of posters here, is this normal behavior? Or is it an easy fix for Kimber or a 1911 smith?

    Maybe try a combat ejector?
     
    This size 1911 is notorious for doing this. I have an old Kimber Compact that use to do this. I monkeyed with the extractor and ejector and now the brass is either thrown to about 2 o'clock or 5 o'clock. I wish it was one spot or the other but at least it's not coming straight back at me any more.
     
    My commander length S&W did that. Changed every part that could cause that and did milling on the ejector. No luck. Sold it happily. I'll never own a 4-4.25" 1911 again (they don't have much benefit over a 5" IMHO).
     
    No, your gun should not do this. Take it to a competent gunsmith, preferably one who knows how to work on 1911's, and have him adjust the extractor. This should fix your problem.

    I agree. Take it to someone who knows. I have screwed up my share of parts and some things take formal training, not books and a hope of doing it right.
     
    Thanks for the replies. Without trying to bash Kimber, it's a shame that this is an issue with a $1000+ pistol.
     
    Extractor tune!!!

    +1

    I recently had this problem on my 5" Kimber 10mm pistol. I am not mechanically inclined, but I fixed mine with the help of a youtube video.

    If you go to youtube and look search on" Extractor Tune", there are videos on how to do it. Basically, you remove the extractor half way from the slide, then bend it a little more than it already is. Then put a round into the slide and see if the extractor has enough tension to hold it during a light jiggle.

    Once you have it adjusted so the round doesn't fall out with a slight jiggle, put the gun back together, and shoot it. The gun should throw the cases closer to 4-5p. The more you bend the extractor (to a point), the closer the brass will shoot toward the 4pm position.

    You can over tighten the extractor, so don't bend it too much at one time.
     
    Thanks for the replies. Without trying to bash Kimber, it's a shame that this is an issue with a $1000+ pistol.

    Don't worry, your not bashing them, your just being honest. IMHO Kimber is really over rated for what you get vs what you pay.
    I have worked on Kimbers out of the box that would not run, and for stupid stuff that should have never left the factory.
    2 with barrels that overhung the ramp, one with 1/2 of the extractor hook missing(manufacturerd that way) one with a broken sear nose, one that would not go into battery correctly (lugs needed cut).
    It really is ridiculous.

    Correct tension on an extractor is in the 4-5# range. It should hold an unfired cartridge while the slide is turned and lightly jiggled in any position yet thumb pressure should release it easily.
    The nose of the hook should not contact the case at all, it is only there to pull the casing from the chamber only.
     
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    As mentioned your extractor or ejector might need to be tuned. There is another thing that can cause it and based on the "one per magazine" observation it might be your issue. Limp wristing and/or too strong of a recoil spring will have the same symptoms. If you're limp wristing at times.............well you know. If it's a new pistol, run at least 100 rounds through it to break in the recoil spring.
     
    Yes--do this first. Cheapest fix. Also vary your grip and see if you are limpwristing. If both fail, get the extractor checked.

    Cheapest fix is to test the extractor. Costs nothing but 10-15 minutes of time. Its also an easy cost free fix if it's the issue.