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KRG Bravo Pic Thread

Love the Bravo. Best value in the industry IMHO
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Hey there, I know this is a Bravo thread, but I had a KRG related question. I have a lead on a used X-Ray that is not the latest generation. There are no m-lok slots on the sides of the forend.

would the enclosed forend still be compatible with an older model if I wanted to swap out and upgrade to what KRG is currently selling?

it looks like the changes to the x-ray have been pretty minimal all things considered.

Thanks!
 
Hey there, I know this is a Bravo thread, but I had a KRG related question. I have a lead on a used X-Ray that is not the latest generation. There are no m-lok slots on the sides of the forend.

would the enclosed forend still be compatible with an older model if I wanted to swap out and upgrade to what KRG is currently selling?

it looks like the changes to the x-ray have been pretty minimal all things considered.

Thanks!
Just call or email KRG. I bet you have an answer within an hour regardless of when you sent it.
 
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The other Bravo I have posted in this thread was sold. I own 2 actions yet I was up to five chassis, 2 Bravos, MPA, Manners EH1 and an Outdoorsmans. Attempting to thin the herd except one of the Bravo's had to stay. The Bravo is a great tool

This Bravo is holding my 7SAUM turned by PVA and a Curtis Axiom that came from MPA.

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What NF is that?
 
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I've been working on a Bravo-related project some of you might be interested in, others may be repulsed. The one and only complaint I have about the Bravo is that the stock is front heavy, made much worse by the 26" M24 profile 6CM barrel used on my project that, by itself, is 5lb. The fulcrum of the rifle is forward of the mag well. So, to remedy this, I decided to add weight to the rear of the stock. The goal is not just to add weight, but weight insofar as it balances the rifle and moves the fulcrum aft.

On my last Bravo, I used JB Weld and steel BBs. This time, however, I wanted more weight and a cleaner look. Initially, I intended to make removable weights. This proved cumbersome and unnecessarily complicated so I went for the permanent option. This time around I chose to use copper instead of steel since it is around 12% denser than steel, giving me more weight per cubic inch. I used a mold-making material called EasyFlo Black sourced from Brick In the Yard, or BITY.
View attachment 7608775
Again, originally I planned to make removable weights. I would've started with a positive using a gel material, then a negative with more gel, then the final positive out of the EasyFlo but it was just not working the way I wanted so I abandoned it in favor of permanently adding the material to the stock. The EasyFlo is just the binding substrate, the real weight comes from the copper shavings I acquired via Etsy.
View attachment 7608779
When it was all said and done, I mixed 1-1/2lb of copper chips in with the EasyFlo. Actually, pre-measured the two parts which is a 1:1 ratio, mixed the copper in with part B, then added part A to the B/copper mixture and stirred it all together quickly. The EasyFlo only has a pour time of about two minutes (and they mean two) so I had to work quickly. Just before introducing the mixture into the stock, I poured the excess liquid into a waiting container, poured the saturated copper mixture into the stock, then capped it off with the liquid to make it all look pretty.
View attachment 7608788

The majority went into the rear of the stock
View attachment 7608789
The rest filled the under side and grip cavities
View attachment 7608801
In total, I added 1-1/2lbs and all in the rear-most portion of the stock pushing the center of gravity to the buttock area. Once the enclosed forend comes in, the whole stock should balance out nicely. NOTE I'm prepped for pain it looks like crap at the moment.
Hey rock dock that’s a great project. I have an M24 contour barrel coming for my Tikka/bravo. Did this 1.5 lbs end up balancing the rifle to the middle or is it still heavy too far forward?
 
I'm running a Proof competition contour. I used #8 lead shot in baggies in the various holes in the stock. I got it balanced and still have room to add more weight.
 
Check out KRG website. Looks like they released some weight systems for the rear stock cavitys. I filled my stock cavitys with lead shot wrapped in Saran wrap. These weights might be heavier.
 
How do you like the enclosed forend on the bravo?
I really like it. A new 7mm-08 project is in-bound and I'm gonna do a very similar setup, only I'm gonna add the enclosed forend weight and the grip weight they just came out with. By the way, what the heck took so long on that grip weight? lol And, why is there no "stock" weight, like one to fit in the cavity in the rear? My shade tree job really stiffened it up, but I'd prefer one that doesn't like a gimp with some tools did it. Anyway, I thought about going to a W3 or something but every time I shoot this rifle I love it more. Don't mess with a good thing
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Hey rock dock that’s a great project. I have an M24 contour barrel coming for my Tikka/bravo. Did this 1.5 lbs end up balancing the rifle to the middle or is it still heavy too far forward?
It's still a little tipsy toward the front but I don't regret this mod one bit. It definitely added heft in all the right places. Plus, when you pick it up it feels solid, not like, well, hollow plastic. I saw they came out with a grip weight, but I wish they had a tight fitting weight for each of the cavities. It's no different than external weights planted in key areas, just prettier. I think I remember balancing the rifle pre-mod and it was way out toward the front of the stock (basic forend, beforeI added the enclosed), now it's right at the action.
 
I'm running a Proof competition contour. I used #8 lead shot in baggies in the various holes in the stock. I got it balanced and still have room to add more weight.
I almost went the shot route, but I got more density out of the copper. For what I spent on that little project, I might just do the shot next time lol
 
I really like it. A new 7mm-08 project is in-bound and I'm gonna do a very similar setup, only I'm gonna add the enclosed forend weight and the grip weight they just came out with. By the way, what the heck took so long on that grip weight? lol And, why is there no "stock" weight, like one to fit in the cavity in the rear? My shade tree job really stiffened it up, but I'd prefer one that doesn't like a gimp with some tools did it. Anyway, I thought about going to a W3 or something but every time I shoot this rifle I love it more. Don't mess with a good thing
View attachment 7746469
They do offer weights for the stock which fit in front of the butt plate
 
I really like it. A new 7mm-08 project is in-bound and I'm gonna do a very similar setup, only I'm gonna add the enclosed forend weight and the grip weight they just came out with. By the way, what the heck took so long on that grip weight? lol And, why is there no "stock" weight, like one to fit in the cavity in the rear? My shade tree job really stiffened it up, but I'd prefer one that doesn't like a gimp with some tools did it. Anyway, I thought about going to a W3 or something but every time I shoot this rifle I love it more. Don't mess with a good thing
View attachment 7746469
Funny you mention the stock weights, KRG recently added some that fit in that cavity. Fantastic looking rig btw.
 
I really like it. A new 7mm-08 project is in-bound and I'm gonna do a very similar setup, only I'm gonna add the enclosed forend weight and the grip weight they just came out with. By the way, what the heck took so long on that grip weight? lol And, why is there no "stock" weight, like one to fit in the cavity in the rear? My shade tree job really stiffened it up, but I'd prefer one that doesn't like a gimp with some tools did it. Anyway, I thought about going to a W3 or something but every time I shoot this rifle I love it more. Don't mess with a good thing
View attachment 7746469

The enclosed forend looks awesome.

I'm planning another build and I`m considering the Bravo with enclosed forend.
 
Still waiting on my trigger to show up, but all the other parts have so I just had to put it together.
LH Nucleus Gen 2
PVA / Rock Creek barrel in 223
LH KRG Bravo
S&B PM II 5-25 in ARC M10 rings
LH Trigger Tech Special trigger - When it shows up!

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I may have missed this in a prior post as I have not gone through all of them, but if you get bored and wouldn't mind detailing the paints etc for that I'd be grateful. That looks outstanding.
 
So between the heavy XL Arca rail (56oz), spacer (20oz), the T-slot weight for the closed rail (16oz), the grip weight(14oz), the rear weights (26oz), and a LOP spacer (11oz), a guy COULD add almost 9 pounds to his gun. Of course, it would cost him $500 to do it but you don't get something for nothing in this game. If I add 9lb to my gun as it is right now it would be right around 29lb!
 
So between the heavy XL Arca rail (56oz), spacer (20oz), the T-slot weight for the closed rail (16oz), the grip weight(14oz), the rear weights (26oz), and a LOP spacer (11oz), a guy COULD add almost 9 pounds to his gun. Of course, it would cost him $500 to do it but you don't get something for nothing in this game. If I add 9lb to my gun as it is right now it would be right around 29lb!
The Heavy XL Arca is 29oz.You can add the heavy barrier stop for 6oz or steel stop for 14oz.
 
I may have missed this in a prior post as I have not gone through all of them, but if you get bored and wouldn't mind detailing the paints etc for that I'd be grateful. That looks outstanding.

I used Alcohol Ink's that you can buy online or at a local Hobby store. Just prep the stock and paint it with a matte white or beige colored paint, and then apply the alcohol ink's. I had the best results getting a wood grain look using a cheap makeup brush set that I bought off Amazon.
You have to work fast with the ink's - they dry really fast, but if you screw up or don't like something, you can just use rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and wipe it off.
I practiced on a couple old factory takeoff stocks to begin with, and to see what color combinations worked best. Once you get the look you want, spray 2-3 coats of clear paint to protect the ink finish. I used a matte clear on mine.
 
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New build spun up my Chase at Fisher T&C-

  • Zermat Origin receiver set.
  • Proof Research 20" 300wsm 1/10 twist, Sendero profile
  • Barrel threaded for DeadAir suppressor
  • Trigger tech Remington 700 Primary trigger
  • Accurate mag 300wsm AICS mag
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Previous build spun up by Keystone Accuracy
  • Zermat Origin receive set
  • Bartlien 20" 233 Wylde
  • Barrel threaded for DeadAir Suppressor
  • Trigger Tech Diamond
20210410_220606.jpg
 
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I used Alcohol Ink's that you can buy online or at a local Hobby store. Just prep the stock and paint it with a matte white or beige colored paint, and then apply the alcohol ink's. I had the best results getting a wood grain look using a cheap makeup brush set that I bought off Amazon.
You have to work fast with the ink's - they dry really fast, but if you screw up or don't like something, you can just use rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and wipe it off.
I practiced on a couple old factory takeoff stocks to begin with, and to see what color combinations worked best. Once you get the look you want, spray 2-3 coats of clear paint to protect the ink finish. I used a matte clear on mine.
Outstanding thank you
 
New build spun up my Chase at Fisher T&C-

  • Zermat Origin receiver set.
  • Proof Research 20" 300wsm 1/10 twist, Sendero profile
  • Barrel threaded for DeadAir suppressor
  • Trigger tech Remington 700 Primary trigger
  • Accurate mag 300wsm AICS mag
View attachment 7747402

Previous build spun up by Keystone Accuracy
  • Zermat Origin receive set
  • Bartlien 20" 233 Wylde
  • Barrel threaded for DeadAir Suppressor
  • Trigger Tech Diamond
View attachment 7747417
Out of curiosity what does the 300wsm weigh?
 
I used Alcohol Ink's that you can buy online or at a local Hobby store. Just prep the stock and paint it with a matte white or beige colored paint, and then apply the alcohol ink's. I had the best results getting a wood grain look using a cheap makeup brush set that I bought off Amazon.
You have to work fast with the ink's - they dry really fast, but if you screw up or don't like something, you can just use rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and wipe it off.
I practiced on a couple old factory takeoff stocks to begin with, and to see what color combinations worked best. Once you get the look you want, spray 2-3 coats of clear paint to protect the ink finish. I used a matte clear on mine.
I am going to try this as I just received my Bravo. Would you mind please sharing what color combo you used there? Honestly I don't want or need anything different looking than that it's awesome. I've also got an older Bergara B14 stock I'm going to do....thanks man great looking Bravo.
 
I am going to try this as I just received my Bravo. Would you mind please sharing what color combo you used there? Honestly I don't want or need anything different looking than that it's awesome. I've also got an older Bergara B14 stock I'm going to do....thanks man great looking Bravo.

I bought a couple different sets of the inks off Amazon.
Tim Holtz Adirondack - Cabin Cupboard set, and the Pixiss - Brown ink set.
I also bought a cheap 10pc makeup brush set that I used to apply it. They worked a lot better than the paint brushes that I tried.
 
What ring/mount heights are most guys running on these? I'm looking to do a 2.5-20 nx8 on an origin action with an m24 barrel profile
 
And the long action is a 100% factory stock 700 Classic barreled action in 7mm Mauser. I ended up putting it back in the wood stock with the Magpul bottom for the mags. Gonna sell the KRG. I like the wood on this one.

700 Classic in KRG in woods.JPG
 
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If I could figure out how to post a pic of my KRB Bravo project, which was completed yesterday when the mount showed up, I would. Its an old rig, from my Palma days: totally trued up M700, pinned Tubb lug, Jewel trigger, 30" fluted Krieger, in 223/1-8", Spuhr 4026 mount and a new XRS III. I've added an Atlas bipod and am planning on shooting it at a Tehama steel match in February. And yes, way back 20+ years ago, I shot it at 1000 and I shot the smallest group EVERY at 300 yds with it...slinged up prone/irons. Looking forward to shooting it WITH a scope!
 
Was all black now is OD green. All by myself🤣🤣🤣🤣
Begara b14 HMR 6.5 creed 22" barrel LH action. Atlas bipod. 5-25 Vortex strike eagle. Timney LH trigger. Set at 1.2lbs. Gamma VG6.5 brake.

Absolutley zero recoil which works great after my spinal surgery.

Doc
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Anybody have a good way for me to mount a sling to my KRG X-Ray?

I have a magpul QD cup at the rear that I can use, but my forend is the minimalist old version that doesn’t have m-lok on the sides. I have an arca plate on the bottom of the forend so I can’t install the sling stud.

Here’s a picture for reference:
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