Well just recieved my new USO 5-25 sn3 Tpal that I ordered from lazy21 (great guy) and I mounted it on my DTA srs in 308 and I am shooting 178 grain Hornady AMax hand loads. I downloaded a app on my phone and this is my forst mil/mil scope. My adjustments are 1/10 mil and I have the H37 Horus reticle. My question is what is the best way to do the math?
Rifle Scopes Mil calculation
- Thread starter Rowdyryno
- Start date
Re: Mil calculation
There is no math involved with a mil/mil scope; that's why everyone loves them so much. Every one mil tick on the reticle equates to a one mil change in the turrets.
There is no math involved with a mil/mil scope; that's why everyone loves them so much. Every one mil tick on the reticle equates to a one mil change in the turrets.
Re: Mil calculation
Well I understand that I just wanna know like for example on my app if I'm taking a 360 yards shot there's 20.24" of bullet drop and the app calls for 19 .1mrad of adjustment so 1.9 mils. And at a 100 yards 1 mil=3.6" and at 300 1 mil is 10.8" roughly or a standard I guess you could say. So how is the 1.9 mils calculated
Well I understand that I just wanna know like for example on my app if I'm taking a 360 yards shot there's 20.24" of bullet drop and the app calls for 19 .1mrad of adjustment so 1.9 mils. And at a 100 yards 1 mil=3.6" and at 300 1 mil is 10.8" roughly or a standard I guess you could say. So how is the 1.9 mils calculated
Re: Mil calculation
1 mrad= 1 mil
At 360 yards, your app should read 1.9 mrad, which is 1.9 mils.
You dial 1.9 into your turrets since it has 0.1 mil adjustments.
DO NOT convert anything to inches. Inches have absolutely no relevance when doing anything in mils.
SO, if your calculator suggests 1.9, you dial to literally 1.9 and shoot. It's that easy, you are just over thinking it.
1 mrad= 1 mil
At 360 yards, your app should read 1.9 mrad, which is 1.9 mils.
You dial 1.9 into your turrets since it has 0.1 mil adjustments.
DO NOT convert anything to inches. Inches have absolutely no relevance when doing anything in mils.
SO, if your calculator suggests 1.9, you dial to literally 1.9 and shoot. It's that easy, you are just over thinking it.
Re: Mil calculation
Need to know:
-velocity
-bullet BC (ballistic coeficiency)
-scope height above bore
Input atmospheric conditions:
-Temp
-baro pressure (or altitude)
-wind speed/direction
Now you input your distance to target (target size in inches X 27.778 devided by mil reading) and the program will come up with a "solution" in mils. As far as adjusting the scope, I dial for elevation and use a "hold" for windage, meaning you are using the horizontal crosshair left or right of the center intersection matching your mil wind correction. With the Horus system, you really dont need to dial any wind or elevation changes, all holds are using the mil grid in the reticle, thats the benifit of the Horus reticle.
The nice thing about mils is you are dealing with decimals, not fractions. Instead of someone calling a 1 1/4 MOA correction for wind, they would call a .3 mil correction. In reality, you dont need to know metric at all, you are just using a metric system for ranging and adjusting but all your measurements of target and distance can still be in inches and yards, unless you want to make a full conversion over to metric.....
Kirk R
Need to know:
-velocity
-bullet BC (ballistic coeficiency)
-scope height above bore
Input atmospheric conditions:
-Temp
-baro pressure (or altitude)
-wind speed/direction
Now you input your distance to target (target size in inches X 27.778 devided by mil reading) and the program will come up with a "solution" in mils. As far as adjusting the scope, I dial for elevation and use a "hold" for windage, meaning you are using the horizontal crosshair left or right of the center intersection matching your mil wind correction. With the Horus system, you really dont need to dial any wind or elevation changes, all holds are using the mil grid in the reticle, thats the benifit of the Horus reticle.
The nice thing about mils is you are dealing with decimals, not fractions. Instead of someone calling a 1 1/4 MOA correction for wind, they would call a .3 mil correction. In reality, you dont need to know metric at all, you are just using a metric system for ranging and adjusting but all your measurements of target and distance can still be in inches and yards, unless you want to make a full conversion over to metric.....
Kirk R
Re: Mil calculation
Remau308 you are borderline super hero to me right now I was about to throw my phone across the shop lol. My app I set up in 10 yards increments from 0-1000 and I have a 100 yard zero and just as the example I stated above at 360 there's 20.24" of drop so it calls out for -19 (.1mrad) so that's what I would use for holding with the Horus reticle I was just wondering how it calculated that (-19) I wanna make some range cards so I don't haft to F with my phone at the range
Remau308 you are borderline super hero to me right now I was about to throw my phone across the shop lol. My app I set up in 10 yards increments from 0-1000 and I have a 100 yard zero and just as the example I stated above at 360 there's 20.24" of drop so it calls out for -19 (.1mrad) so that's what I would use for holding with the Horus reticle I was just wondering how it calculated that (-19) I wanna make some range cards so I don't haft to F with my phone at the range
Re: Mil calculation
8up this is my first mil/mil scope just don't wanna depend on my phone 100% of the time and would like a better understanding on how it all works
8up this is my first mil/mil scope just don't wanna depend on my phone 100% of the time and would like a better understanding on how it all works
Re: Mil calculation
Why in the world are you mentioning inches? They have nothing to do with mrads.
Input data into ballistic program.
Get a ballistic table from said program.
Dial the turrets to the distance you will be shooting.
Forget inches.
Why in the world are you mentioning inches? They have nothing to do with mrads.
Input data into ballistic program.
Get a ballistic table from said program.
Dial the turrets to the distance you will be shooting.
Forget inches.
Re: Mil calculation
Graham the app is set up in .1mrad and it calls for 19 clicks of adjustment I was saying dial or holdover with my Horus reticle. Sorry If nothing I say makes sense cause I'm completely lost at this point
Graham the app is set up in .1mrad and it calls for 19 clicks of adjustment I was saying dial or holdover with my Horus reticle. Sorry If nothing I say makes sense cause I'm completely lost at this point
Re: Mil calculation
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rowdyryno</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Graham the app is set up in .1mrad and it calls for 19 clicks of adjustment I was saying dial or holdover with my Horus reticle. Sorry If nothing I say makes sense cause I'm completely lost at this point </div></div>
Best thing you can do is not to think about the turrets in clicks, if it calls for 1.9 mils, just rack turret to 1 and then .9 (=1.9 mils) and go. The Horus reticle is designed to allow accurate holdovers using the mil grid or reticle without dialing on the turret, so for 1.9 mils you would go down on the vericle reticle intersection to 1.9 just above 2 mils.
Its so simple it can seem confusing, its that easy.
Kirk R
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rowdyryno</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Graham the app is set up in .1mrad and it calls for 19 clicks of adjustment I was saying dial or holdover with my Horus reticle. Sorry If nothing I say makes sense cause I'm completely lost at this point </div></div>
Best thing you can do is not to think about the turrets in clicks, if it calls for 1.9 mils, just rack turret to 1 and then .9 (=1.9 mils) and go. The Horus reticle is designed to allow accurate holdovers using the mil grid or reticle without dialing on the turret, so for 1.9 mils you would go down on the vericle reticle intersection to 1.9 just above 2 mils.
Its so simple it can seem confusing, its that easy.
Kirk R
Re: Mil calculation
Throw distance/distance measurements out the window. If you're 2.3 mils low, adjust the turrets 2.3 mils. Simple.
If you really want to think in terms of drop in distance, an example would be one mil at 567 yards equals 1/1000 of that or .567 yards. A mil is essentially 1/1000 at the given distance.
So say if you're shooting on paper and you're grouping 17 inches low at 800 yards...a mil at 800 is .8 yards which is 28.8 inches so your 17 inches is worth about 0.59 mil so that would be 6 clicks on a 1/10mil per click turret.
The real beauty of mil reticle/mil turrets is that if you look through the scope you can simply count the mils and adjust by that number. The only time you really should worry about what a mil equals in measurement is in the above scenario when you're shooting groups on paper.
Throw distance/distance measurements out the window. If you're 2.3 mils low, adjust the turrets 2.3 mils. Simple.
If you really want to think in terms of drop in distance, an example would be one mil at 567 yards equals 1/1000 of that or .567 yards. A mil is essentially 1/1000 at the given distance.
So say if you're shooting on paper and you're grouping 17 inches low at 800 yards...a mil at 800 is .8 yards which is 28.8 inches so your 17 inches is worth about 0.59 mil so that would be 6 clicks on a 1/10mil per click turret.
The real beauty of mil reticle/mil turrets is that if you look through the scope you can simply count the mils and adjust by that number. The only time you really should worry about what a mil equals in measurement is in the above scenario when you're shooting groups on paper.
Re: Mil calculation
Judging from your last post it sounds like you need to do a list of mil come-up's in 100 yard increments as well as a specific windage correction (also in mils) for 100 to 1000 yards.
I use 10 mph wind adjustment because it is easy to adjust up or down to whatever wind condition you are feeling.
Make a small printout of your chart (not mine cause mine is bogus) and tape it to the side of your rifle's forearm. If you shoot right handed it needs to be on the left side so you can easily see it with your eye as you are laying down the rifle.
For example.........(not accurate but just showing what the chart would look like).
Example rifle, 308 Win.,
175 gr. MK at 4000 fps
100 y ... +0.0 ....0.1 w
200 y ... +0.5 ....0.2 w
300 y ... +1.1 ....0.4 w
400 y ... +1.4 ....0.6 w
500 y ... +2.1 ....0.7 w
600 y ... +2.9 ....0.9 w
700 y ... +3.5 ....1.1 w
800 y ... +4.4 ....1.4 w
900 y ... +5.1 ....2.0 w
1000y ... +5.9 ....2.5 w
The first number for each yardage is the mil come-up and the second number is the 10 mph wind correction.
If you change your load it is real easy to simply do up another chart and tape it to the side of the stock. Some people tape one to the side of the buttstock but I prefer the forearm because it is easier to take a quick look.
For field conditions it works well because you can extrapolate yardage and windage values.
Using your 550 yard coyote example, you simply dial halfway between the 500 and 600 yard dope and do the same for the windage.
Judging from your last post it sounds like you need to do a list of mil come-up's in 100 yard increments as well as a specific windage correction (also in mils) for 100 to 1000 yards.
I use 10 mph wind adjustment because it is easy to adjust up or down to whatever wind condition you are feeling.
Make a small printout of your chart (not mine cause mine is bogus) and tape it to the side of your rifle's forearm. If you shoot right handed it needs to be on the left side so you can easily see it with your eye as you are laying down the rifle.
For example.........(not accurate but just showing what the chart would look like).
Example rifle, 308 Win.,
175 gr. MK at 4000 fps
100 y ... +0.0 ....0.1 w
200 y ... +0.5 ....0.2 w
300 y ... +1.1 ....0.4 w
400 y ... +1.4 ....0.6 w
500 y ... +2.1 ....0.7 w
600 y ... +2.9 ....0.9 w
700 y ... +3.5 ....1.1 w
800 y ... +4.4 ....1.4 w
900 y ... +5.1 ....2.0 w
1000y ... +5.9 ....2.5 w
The first number for each yardage is the mil come-up and the second number is the 10 mph wind correction.
If you change your load it is real easy to simply do up another chart and tape it to the side of the stock. Some people tape one to the side of the buttstock but I prefer the forearm because it is easier to take a quick look.
For field conditions it works well because you can extrapolate yardage and windage values.
Using your 550 yard coyote example, you simply dial halfway between the 500 and 600 yard dope and do the same for the windage.
Re: Mil calculation
Blnelson that makes more sense and I see the whole shoot and watch impact make adjustment and shoot again that's what drew me to go this route. I mainly wanna understand it all and all this information really helps with that so thanks. If I'm hunting let's say and a coyote walks out at 550 what's the best easy way to know what to dial without using the app? Or should I just print and laminate for the first shot data and then use the corrections from there?
Blnelson that makes more sense and I see the whole shoot and watch impact make adjustment and shoot again that's what drew me to go this route. I mainly wanna understand it all and all this information really helps with that so thanks. If I'm hunting let's say and a coyote walks out at 550 what's the best easy way to know what to dial without using the app? Or should I just print and laminate for the first shot data and then use the corrections from there?
Re: Mil calculation
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Okie Gordon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Example rifle, 308 Win.,
175 gr. MK at 4000 fps
</div></div>
Can I get your load info ? 4000fps, WOW
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Okie Gordon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Example rifle, 308 Win.,
175 gr. MK at 4000 fps
</div></div>
Can I get your load info ? 4000fps, WOW
Re: Mil calculation
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Captain Kirk</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Okie Gordon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Example rifle, 308 Win.,
175 gr. MK at 4000 fps
</div></div>
Can I get your load info ? 4000fps, WOW
</div></div>
Just stuff in all the red dot that the case will hold.
Right????
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Captain Kirk</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Okie Gordon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Example rifle, 308 Win.,
175 gr. MK at 4000 fps
</div></div>
Can I get your load info ? 4000fps, WOW
Just stuff in all the red dot that the case will hold.
Right????
Re: Mil calculation
That would be a compressed load, for sure.
Rowdyryno, I think you are overcomplicating the process in your head. The app will ask for various info like I mentioned above. Assuming you already know the distance to the target as you mentioned the yote @ 550 yards, you input the distance to the target in yards, it will give you a solution of say 4.0 mils for elevation, you simply use the reticle and hold over the target on the 4 mil intersection on the reticle (4 down), bang.
Kirk R
That would be a compressed load, for sure.
Rowdyryno, I think you are overcomplicating the process in your head. The app will ask for various info like I mentioned above. Assuming you already know the distance to the target as you mentioned the yote @ 550 yards, you input the distance to the target in yards, it will give you a solution of say 4.0 mils for elevation, you simply use the reticle and hold over the target on the 4 mil intersection on the reticle (4 down), bang.
Kirk R
Re: Mil calculation
I over thought everything as well. The best thing to do if you have the option, is to just go shoot with someone else that has the MIL/MIL scope. Saves so much time.
I over thought everything as well. The best thing to do if you have the option, is to just go shoot with someone else that has the MIL/MIL scope. Saves so much time.
Re: Mil calculation
The app is ballistic AE and I'm shooting a DTA srs in 308 wih 22" barrel from sac. I have a 300-SD can and the hand loads are 178 grain Hornady Amax with 44 grains of varget powder the app has all info put in and gives me full breakdown on 0-1000 yards in 10 yard increments and I have shot it and it works. I just didn't understand how it worked
The app is ballistic AE and I'm shooting a DTA srs in 308 wih 22" barrel from sac. I have a 300-SD can and the hand loads are 178 grain Hornady Amax with 44 grains of varget powder the app has all info put in and gives me full breakdown on 0-1000 yards in 10 yard increments and I have shot it and it works. I just didn't understand how it worked
Re: Mil calculation
Dfoosking I do shoot a lot of steel and I am currently gathering data and gonna try working some different loads. I Wouldn't think twice to take a long shot at a coyote I know I can hit a target I just wanna know all that goes into it. I don't wanna depend on a app and I wanna make arrange cards like you stated above but wanna know what I'm doing so that I make the right inputs on the card. Worst case I throw the Moa/Moa NF back on and let them fly.
Dfoosking I do shoot a lot of steel and I am currently gathering data and gonna try working some different loads. I Wouldn't think twice to take a long shot at a coyote I know I can hit a target I just wanna know all that goes into it. I don't wanna depend on a app and I wanna make arrange cards like you stated above but wanna know what I'm doing so that I make the right inputs on the card. Worst case I throw the Moa/Moa NF back on and let them fly.
Re: Mil calculation
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rowdyryno</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well I understand that I just wanna know like for example on my app if I'm taking a 360 yards shot there's 20.24" of bullet drop and the app calls for 19 .1mrad of adjustment so 1.9 mils. And at a 100 yards 1 mil=3.6" and at 300 1 mil is 10.8" roughly or a standard I guess you could say. So how is the 1.9 mils calculated </div></div>
What app are you using?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rowdyryno</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well I understand that I just wanna know like for example on my app if I'm taking a 360 yards shot there's 20.24" of bullet drop and the app calls for 19 .1mrad of adjustment so 1.9 mils. And at a 100 yards 1 mil=3.6" and at 300 1 mil is 10.8" roughly or a standard I guess you could say. So how is the 1.9 mils calculated </div></div>
What app are you using?
Re: Mil calculation
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Captain Kirk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Need to know:
-velocity
-bullet BC (ballistic coeficiency)
-scope height above bore
Input atmospheric conditions:
-Temp
-baro pressure (or altitude)
-wind speed/direction
Now you input your distance to target (target size in inches X 27.778 devided by mil reading) and the program will come up with a "solution" in mils. As far as adjusting the scope, I dial for elevation and use a "hold" for windage, meaning you are using the horizontal crosshair left or right of the center intersection matching your mil wind correction. With the Horus system, you really dont need to dial any wind or elevation changes, all holds are using the mil grid in the reticle, thats the benifit of the Horus reticle.
The nice thing about mils is you are dealing with decimals, not fractions. Instead of someone calling a 1 1/4 MOA correction for wind, they would call a .3 mil correction. In reality, you dont need to know metric at all, you are just using a metric system for ranging and adjusting but all your measurements of target and distance can still be in inches and yards, unless you want to make a full conversion over to metric.....
Kirk R
</div></div>
<span style="font-weight: bold">Mils have nothing to do with the Metric system</span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Captain Kirk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Need to know:
-velocity
-bullet BC (ballistic coeficiency)
-scope height above bore
Input atmospheric conditions:
-Temp
-baro pressure (or altitude)
-wind speed/direction
Now you input your distance to target (target size in inches X 27.778 devided by mil reading) and the program will come up with a "solution" in mils. As far as adjusting the scope, I dial for elevation and use a "hold" for windage, meaning you are using the horizontal crosshair left or right of the center intersection matching your mil wind correction. With the Horus system, you really dont need to dial any wind or elevation changes, all holds are using the mil grid in the reticle, thats the benifit of the Horus reticle.
The nice thing about mils is you are dealing with decimals, not fractions. Instead of someone calling a 1 1/4 MOA correction for wind, they would call a .3 mil correction. In reality, you dont need to know metric at all, you are just using a metric system for ranging and adjusting but all your measurements of target and distance can still be in inches and yards, unless you want to make a full conversion over to metric.....
Kirk R
</div></div>
<span style="font-weight: bold">Mils have nothing to do with the Metric system</span>
Re: Mil calculation
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rowdyryno</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Dfoosking I do shoot a lot of steel and I am currently gathering data and gonna try working some different loads. I Wouldn't think twice to take a long shot at a coyote I know I can hit a target I just wanna know all that goes into it. I don't wanna depend on a app and I wanna make arrange cards like you stated above but wanna know what I'm doing so that I make the right inputs on the card. Worst case I throw the Moa/Moa NF back on and let them fly. </div></div>
Most apps do a good job as far as the info they give the operator, but make sure all input info you enter is as correct as possible. It’s only as good as what was entered.
After that use the info and run through a few targets at say 200, 300,400,500 and beyond and record in a log as to how your impacts hit in relation to the target at each distance. Then you can adjust your velocity or input info in your app until your corrections and hits all make sense, don’t forget to hit save.
Take note to make sure your 100 yard zero is correct before doing any testing at the other targets, this is very important when confirming your apps info.
When all looks good, hopefully you can send the info from your app to a printer or email it to a point in order to print a copy of your chart. Print it in 100, 50 or 10 yard increments whatever you prefer in a range from 100 to your max distance you want. Set it up with no wind corrections so you know what to set your scope with and then at the time of the shot add what you think would be the wind correction if needed.
This way you will always have a baseline hard copy to fall back on if needed do to your phone dying or in an area with no coverage.
As stated if your turret has 1/10th mil hashes or clicks between the Mil marks it will be as easy as setting it to1.9 or 1.5 and so on
Another tip
Make a small tag laminate it with a string attached and hang it arounf your scope like a small dog tag. On this number 1 to 17 which would be 100 to 1700 yards and next to it write what a mil is worth in distance and even a 1/10th mil
Example of card
1 -3.6---.36
2- 7.2---.72
3- 10.8--1.08
4- 14.4--1.44 so in other words at 400 yards one mil equals 14.4”and one click or 1/10th of a mil would move my impact 1.44”
5- 18.0--1.8
and on and on till you think you will have your range covered, I do all mine from 1 to 17 which is 100 to 1700 yards.
The scope/dog tag works great for fast references, my string just allows it to slip over the front scope bell
So with this you have a fast reference under pressure as to what a full mil is at any distance as well as to what 1/10 of a mil or 1 click on your turret will do for corrections or sighting
Hope this helps some
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rowdyryno</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Dfoosking I do shoot a lot of steel and I am currently gathering data and gonna try working some different loads. I Wouldn't think twice to take a long shot at a coyote I know I can hit a target I just wanna know all that goes into it. I don't wanna depend on a app and I wanna make arrange cards like you stated above but wanna know what I'm doing so that I make the right inputs on the card. Worst case I throw the Moa/Moa NF back on and let them fly. </div></div>
Most apps do a good job as far as the info they give the operator, but make sure all input info you enter is as correct as possible. It’s only as good as what was entered.
After that use the info and run through a few targets at say 200, 300,400,500 and beyond and record in a log as to how your impacts hit in relation to the target at each distance. Then you can adjust your velocity or input info in your app until your corrections and hits all make sense, don’t forget to hit save.
Take note to make sure your 100 yard zero is correct before doing any testing at the other targets, this is very important when confirming your apps info.
When all looks good, hopefully you can send the info from your app to a printer or email it to a point in order to print a copy of your chart. Print it in 100, 50 or 10 yard increments whatever you prefer in a range from 100 to your max distance you want. Set it up with no wind corrections so you know what to set your scope with and then at the time of the shot add what you think would be the wind correction if needed.
This way you will always have a baseline hard copy to fall back on if needed do to your phone dying or in an area with no coverage.
As stated if your turret has 1/10th mil hashes or clicks between the Mil marks it will be as easy as setting it to1.9 or 1.5 and so on
Another tip
Make a small tag laminate it with a string attached and hang it arounf your scope like a small dog tag. On this number 1 to 17 which would be 100 to 1700 yards and next to it write what a mil is worth in distance and even a 1/10th mil
Example of card
1 -3.6---.36
2- 7.2---.72
3- 10.8--1.08
4- 14.4--1.44 so in other words at 400 yards one mil equals 14.4”and one click or 1/10th of a mil would move my impact 1.44”
5- 18.0--1.8
and on and on till you think you will have your range covered, I do all mine from 1 to 17 which is 100 to 1700 yards.
The scope/dog tag works great for fast references, my string just allows it to slip over the front scope bell
So with this you have a fast reference under pressure as to what a full mil is at any distance as well as to what 1/10 of a mil or 1 click on your turret will do for corrections or sighting
Hope this helps some
Re: Mil calculation
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oneshot.onehit</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-weight: bold">Mils have nothing to do with the Metric system</span> </div></div>
Im aware of that, I think a lot of shooters new to mils get this confused, especially with a S&B that is listed as cm on adjustments. I didnt word it correctly, your not using a metric system, its just a different mathematic equation than MOA.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oneshot.onehit</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-weight: bold">Mils have nothing to do with the Metric system</span> </div></div>
Im aware of that, I think a lot of shooters new to mils get this confused, especially with a S&B that is listed as cm on adjustments. I didnt word it correctly, your not using a metric system, its just a different mathematic equation than MOA.
