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New bling from KRG

Thanks for the info,,,
Im ready to change out the mcrees due to the buttstock,but will miss the folder.
 
Perhaps a dumb question, but how is the grip on the Bravo compared to traditional stocks?

I am used to Manners T2/McMillan A5 type grip/palm swell, which is what draws me to the Bravo...more conventional look/feel than a normal chassis. I owned a RPR but just couldn't get comfortable and consistent behind the thing...
I replaced a a-5 with the bravo way better feel for me. the grip is longer and just fits my monster hands better.
 
One of y’all that already have a Bravo setup mind removing your cheek piece and doing an experiment for me? Due to being blind in one eye, I need to know if with the cheekpiece removed you can can get your head low enough on the stock to see through your opposite side eye.

I’m assuming that the studs for the cheekpiece are built into the cheekpiece, not the main stock body.

Anybody have the time?
 
Anybody have the time?
I understand what you're saying, but not sure how just the cheek piece plays into it. It would be very dependent on position, scope height, and a host of other factors. It is also very squared off when you take it off, and there is a divot that you'd have to fit your cheek into perfectly. If you're blind in one eye, I'd simply recommend shooting from the other shoulder. We practice this periodically at work, and it's not that hard.
 
"Slam?" No, just calling it like I see it. Taking the time to type out that you don't have the time to answer the phone?

Oh, BOOHOO. Maybe they were in between flights? Maybe they didn’t have good cell coverage? Or maybe they should say “fuck our budget, fuck the ledger, we GOTTA hire someone to answer the phones full time for a grown ass man throwing a tantrum about one order online.”

Act like an adult.
 
I understand what you're saying, but not sure how just the cheek piece plays into it. It would be very dependent on position, scope height, and a host of other factors. It is also very squared off when you take it off, and there is a divot that you'd have to fit your cheek into perfectly. If you're blind in one eye, I'd simply recommend shooting from the other shoulder. We practice this periodically at work, and it's not that hard.

To explain more, I do shoot on the side of my good eye. I'm curious if I could take the cheek piece off and shoot on my bad side if I needed to on a competition stage where weak side was required. I've done it with a Manners removable cheek rest, it is essentially a makeshift way of lowering the comb.
 
Anybody have the time?


Yes you can.
SINR3Shs.jpg
 
Cool. You happen to know what your bore to scope center line measurement is? I appreciate you trying that.

Not off hand, but it is a Spuhr picatinny 3601 mount. If you figure it out please let me know. It is a Tikka T3 in 260 Rem btw.
 
I got my Sako green KRG Bravo last week, and love it. Took a bit to set it up like I want (sling mounts, butt spacers, etc), but I really like the results. My rifle lost weight going from the McRees chassis to this, and i like the ergos MUCH better. I've only shot it prone and off a bench, but I have not one single complaint about this. My range is very limited (500), but the shooting I did with it made me happy.

Wish I could find a sako green spray paint not to do some work on the barreled action and scope without having to go with duracoat (rifle was previously cerakoted OD green, and it doesn't match at all - will likely just rattle can over that black).

Mind posting some shots of the sako green bravo?
 
For those that have Bravo with regular (not Whisky3) backbone, do you mind measure the thickness of the recoil lug cut? Trying to figure out whether I need the Whisky3 version or not. Thanks!
 
I replaced a a-5 with the bravo way better feel for me. the grip is longer and just fits my monster hands better.

How much shorter is the Bravo forearm compared to your A5?

At a glance, it appears to be a couple inches shorter.
 
For those that have Bravo with regular (not Whisky3) backbone, do you mind measure the thickness of the recoil lug cut? Trying to figure out whether I need the Whisky3 version or not. Thanks!


It measures .500”. Length is about 1.250”. Thats not a precise as there is a lip on the chassis edges and getting the depth gauge in there is at an angle. Just had my LA with the W3 apart yesterday...I could have miked that one out too...sorry.
 
FYI, the one example of the Bravo 700 SA that I have does not have sufficient clearance in the area of the right side of the trigger pocket for the current version TriggerTech trigger's safety to engage.
 
KRG,

Ensure the Bravo will work for the Tikka T1X PLEASE.

Was going to order but heard you have to retain factory floor plate on the T1X.
 
How much shorter is the Bravo forearm compared to your A5?

At a glance, it appears to be a couple inches shorter.
Yeah its a few inches shorter. Im not really concerned with that though. If you wanted it longer you could always go to the enclosed forend.
 
Yeah its a few inches shorter. Im not really concerned with that though. If you wanted it longer you could always go to the enclosed forend.

My endstate is a bravo with enclosed forend. Best of both worlds IMHO.

Scott
 
FYI, the one example of the Bravo 700 SA that I have does not have sufficient clearance in the area of the right side of the trigger pocket for the current version TriggerTech trigger's safety to engage.

Yeah, I had an issue with my Calvin Elite's safety binding and fully engaging. Stopped by their booth at SHOT and they said it was the first they had heard. Mine has the standard backbone. Does anyone know if the Whiskey backbone has more clearance?
 
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Yeah, I had an issue with my Calvin Elite's safety binding and fully engaging. Stopped by their booth at SHOT and they said it was the first they had heard. Mine has the standard backbone. Does anyone know if the Whiskey backbone has more clearance?
im running a trigger tech in the wiskey3 backbone and i have plenty of clearance. if i didn't i wouln't hesitate to take a dremel to it.
 
Shotshow is pretty well known for taking companies offline for a week and it can financially strain a small company like KRG and others to randomly hire a person that can to answer phone calls and also be an expert at the product for $10/hr.

Relax and have some patience, they’ll get back with you.

This. Getting ready for shot, going to shot and post shot, I can only imagine is extremely taxing and all hands on deck for most of these companies. It’s well known that most do not ship and have limited availability during that week. I’m sure they will be back to normal business soon.
 
I just received a Bravo and installed it on a Tikka .223 Varmint action. A couple of observations.
1. The stock is solid, no flex at all
2. The adjustable Cheek Rest gets in the way of the bolt on full extension. In other words, when set to the correct height for me, the bolt slams into the check rest before coming to a full stop.
3. The cheek rest has a little wobble to it once installed and cinched down. This is from the flex of the polymer.
4. This is a bit nit picky, but the rear half of the stock does not mate up to the front half cleanly. The rear section is slightly wider, and the lines do not match up cleanly.

Thanks,
 
I just received a Bravo and installed it on a Tikka .223 Varmint action. A couple of observations.
1. The stock is solid, no flex at all
2. The adjustable Cheek Rest gets in the way of the bolt on full extension. In other words, when set to the correct height for me, the bolt slams into the check rest before coming to a full stop.
3. The cheek rest has a little wobble to it once installed and cinched down. This is from the flex of the polymer.
4. This is a bit nit picky, but the rear half of the stock does not mate up to the front half cleanly. The rear section is slightly wider, and the lines do not match up cleanly.

Thanks,
Do you have the Long bolt stop on your 223? If not it seems it could be a problem with 308 based cartridges trying to get back fair enough to pic up a 2.950” Long cartridge with the Long bolt stop.
 
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Do you have the Long bolt stop on your 223? If not it seems it could be a problem with 308 based cartridges trying to get back fair enough to pic up a 2.950” Long cartridge with the Long bolt stop.
That's a very good question. I don't know which bolt stop is installed. I've not modified it in any way. In fact, I've not even fired the rifle. I simply ordered the stock, installed it, and tested the bolt travel. I am running MDT magazines in the chassis. I'll have to look at the bolt stop. But, I can tell you that if the bolt comes any further back for SA and LA cartridges this stock is not going to be an option. I'll wait for KRG to respond to this thread for any answers.
 
Yes, that is the reason.

Legacy Sports is vacuuming up all Howa-inlet production to get their inventory built up for launch. It will take a few months for KRG to get over the initial rush.

Yes indeed I figured as much....interesting options though especially once legacy gets done taking all the bravo stocks for themselves ;)
 
That's a very good question. I don't know which bolt stop is installed. I've not modified it in any way. In fact, I've not even fired the rifle. I simply ordered the stock, installed it, and tested the bolt travel. I am running MDT magazines in the chassis. I'll have to look at the bolt stop. But, I can tell you that if the bolt comes any further back for SA and LA cartridges this stock is not going to be an option. I'll wait for KRG to respond to this thread for any answers.

Wow likely you have a short bolt stop in then if you haven’t altered it in anyway. Not encouraging for those looking to load 2.950” round with the long bolt stop. Looking forward to hearing KRGs response as well.
 
I just received a Bravo and installed it on a Tikka .223 Varmint action. A couple of observations.
1. The stock is solid, no flex at all
2. The adjustable Cheek Rest gets in the way of the bolt on full extension. In other words, when set to the correct height for me, the bolt slams into the check rest before coming to a full stop.
3. The cheek rest has a little wobble to it once installed and cinched down. This is from the flex of the polymer.
4. This is a bit nit picky, but the rear half of the stock does not mate up to the front half cleanly. The rear section is slightly wider, and the lines do not match up cleanly.

Thanks,


I had the same issue with my Bravo long action. I spoke to KRG several times on the issue thinking they might have a solution, but they did not.

In the end, what I did was build up the rest with several layers of dense cell sheet hobby foam. These were cut to shape to fit over the riser, then glued together (and to the riser) with contact cement. I ended up with about 3 layers. Looks fine and allows the riser to accomodate my face while still sitting low enough to allow the bolt to cycle. As it stands now, I set it up so the rear of the bolt rests in the notch of the riser when fully aft. Pics if you wish...

I have shot both ths SA and LA Bravos quite a bit now, and I really like them. They (for me) fit the niche between “chassis” and “traditional stock” very well. They are solid, adaptable and good looking. There are a few issues with them though, one of which is that adjusable riser. To me, it’s really not “adjustable” if you can only get 1/2” movement out of it before it interferes with the bolt. Short of a redesign of the riser shape, I dont know the answer. (In my case, this was only an issue on the LA with a Stiller action. My SA 700 clears fine with the bolt fully aft regardless of the riser height.) I was pretty disappointed when they told me to take a Dremel to it. That was NOT the CS I was hoping to get after buying over $1K worth of merchandise from them. That aside, they HAVE been very helpful in getting some small parts to me (bag stops, mag spacer, etc) to fine tune the stocks to my needs. No complaints there.
 
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Yeah, I had an issue with my Calvin Elite's safety binding and fully engaging. Stopped by their booth at SHOT and they said it was the first they had heard. Mine has the standard backbone. Does anyone know if the Whiskey backbone has more clearance?

Overall, I really like the ergos of the stock. It felt really nice and the 1 lb weight savings over my XLR element was noticeable. So much so, it could almost use a little more weight in the butt stock when using with a 24" + barrel. This is a far better option than the Magpul Hunter for only slightly more money. It is lighter, has better ergos and the accessory options are much better in my opinion. However, the fitment issues with my standard Rem 700 w/ a Calvin Elite were a bit disappointing.

Here is a picture where you can see the spine along the side has two marks where it appers that the safety was binding:
IMG_5898.jpg


My bolt lever was also hitting one of the sides of the opening:
IMG_5896.jpg


The former is a function/safety issue. I could have used a Dremel, but that should not be the answer for getting a standard action and after market trigger to mate up properly. I ended up sending it back, but I may try one again when I get my Nucleus built up later this year. Hopefully, by then they'll adjust their machining tolerances to be a little more forgiving.
 
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Finally got my tikka mounted up:
20180203_105742.jpg


20180203_105731.jpg

one issue me and my buddy found was the bolt hits the cheek piece depending on how high it is, kinda a bummer but can be fixed with lower rings and a pad on the cheek piece.
20180203_105659.jpg

20180203_105639.jpg


all in all for a $400 chassis i am super stoked it feels and looks great.
specs are:

20" .308 t3X CTR
Sako Green Bravo
Leupold Mark 6 3-18 h59
MT 20moa base and seekins precision rings
currently wearing a AAC 762SD will one day be an AE30

12.5lbs with the supressor, ~11lbs w/o
 
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I should add, i talked to my gunsmith and he doesnt think the magwell will take more then an hour to mill out for CTR magazines. That means $60 for the TRG mag catch and $75 for chassis work so ~$135 to get the CTR magazines to work. If he wasn't booked out 1-2months i would get it done right now but i will wait till he slows down to get the work done.
 
How much of the cheekpiece needs to be dremeled out to stop it from hitting the cheek piece with a tikka? Has anyone done this yet?
 
Does anyone have an X-Ray or Whiskey 3 and a Bravo? Will the cheek piece from them fit the Bravo? Since they have the Overmold cheek piece available seperately, I wonder if that would be an option with he Bravo.
 
Does anyone have an X-Ray or Whiskey 3 and a Bravo? Will the cheek piece from them fit the Bravo? Since they have the Overmold cheek piece available seperately, I wonder if that would be an option with he Bravo.
The X-ray/W-3 comb should fit the Bravo. The post spacing and post clamp look identical between the three.
 
I should add, i talked to my gunsmith and he doesnt think the magwell will take more then an hour to mill out for CTR magazines. That means $60 for the TRG mag catch and $75 for chassis work so ~$135 to get the CTR magazines to work. If he wasn't booked out 1-2months i would get it done right now but i will wait till he slows down to get the work done.

I’m definitely interested in how this turns out and if it’s possible. Is the TRG mag catch extender needed to make the CTR mag work? Is anyone else having issues with the magazine fit?
 
I’m definitely interested in how this turns out and if it’s possible. Is the TRG mag catch extender needed to make the CTR mag work? Is anyone else having issues with the magazine fit?

Yes the TRG mag catch i needed, the CTR mags and AICS mags are captured differently. if by issue you are talking about the mags being super tight and not dropping away then yes, the magwell is tight as shit!
 
Hey guys,
Thanks for your patience and for all your business! SHOT was pretty crazy this year. We're sort of getting caught up but business has increased dramatically. I'll try to address all that I've missed:

-The T3 cocking indicator does interfere with the Bravo cheekpiece in some positions as seen in the pics. The Bravo was designed for the Rem 700 first as opposed to the W-3 which was Tikka first. The current solution is to clearance the cheekpiece a little. In the future we'll have a fully relieved cheekpiece that will come with the T3 Bravos

-The X-ray/W-3 cheekpiece will in fact fit the Bravo.

-The recoil lug pocket on the Bravo is .300" usable from front to back, actual is .500" but there's a radius in the corners. The width and depth is what is the limiting factor for the larger recoil lugs. We had spoke with many of the custom action makers at SHOT and some are tweaking their lugs to fit the Bravo. In turn we are tweaking the Bravo to fit better with the integral lug actions. They have a very tiny radius behind the lug, a byproduct of machining, and that hits on the Bravo (and other chassis) so we're putting in a clearance chamfer on the recoil lug abutment.

-We will be looking into an inlet for the Tikka T1, it was pretty cool. However they had no idea on the timeframe. For a big company that probably means it's far away.

-Regarding trigger fitment, we have several aftermarket triggers and try to make everything fit but it's impossible. For some reason the trigger companies see no reason to stick to a Rem 700 "footprint", haha. You should see the new Tubb trigger.

-Regarding phone calls, yes we literally had to stop answering the phone. I and the rest of the crew apologize but at some point that's the only option as the calls are so time intensive. With the new Bravo orders and SHOT, we have been maxed out. Sometimes you don't know if that business is going to last, ala the AR market that exploded and companies expanded then later went belly up. Right now we are working on measured expansion. We do place a premium on customer service so we're taking steps.

Thank you all for your business, we're doing out best to produce great stuff that all of us shooters like to use and appreciate you choosing us,
Justin
 
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Hey guys,
Thanks for your patience and for all your business! SHOT was pretty crazy this year. We're sort of getting caught up but business has increased dramatically. I'll try to address all that I've missed:

-The T3 cocking indicator does interfere with the Bravo cheekpiece in some positions as seen in the pics. The Bravo was designed for the Rem 700 first as opposed to the W-3 which was Tikka first. The current solution is to clearance the cheekpiece a little. In the future we'll have a fully relieved cheekpiece that will come with the T3 Bravos

-The X-ray/W-3 cheekpiece will in fact fit the Bravo.

-The recoil lug pocket on the Bravo is .300" usable from front to back, actual is .500" but there's a radius in the corners. The width and depth is what is the limiting factor for the larger recoil lugs. We had spoke with many of the custom action makers at SHOT and some are tweaking their lugs to fit the Bravo. In turn we are tweaking the Bravo to fit better with the integral lug actions. They have a very tiny radius behind the lug, a byproduct of machining, and that hits on the Bravo (and other chassis) so we're putting in a clearance chamfer on the recoil lug abutment.

-We will be looking into an inlet for the Tikka T1, it was pretty cool. However they had no idea on the timeframe. For a big company that probably means it's far away.

-Regarding trigger fitment, we have several aftermarket triggers and try to make everything fit but it's impossible. For some reason the trigger companies see no reason to stick to a Rem 700 "footprint", haha. You should see the new Tubb trigger.

-Regarding phone calls, yes we literally had to stop answering the phone. I and the rest of the crew apologize but at some point that's the only option as the calls are so time intensive. With the new Bravo orders and SHOT, we have been maxed out. Sometimes you don't know if that business is going to last, ala the AR market that exploded and companies expanded then later went belly up. Right now we are working on measured expansion. We do place a premium on customer service so we're taking steps.

Thank you all for your business, we're doing out best to produce great stuff that all of us shooters like to use and appreciate you choosing us,
Justin

Thanks for the update!

Any idea when the Tool-less butt plate will be available again?
 
thats pretty clean, what did you use?

Sorry for the late reply. Busy week with little time for hobbies.

The material is closed cell sheet hobby/craft foam from HobbyLobby. 8.5”x11”+ sheet is literaally $1.29. It”s slightly more dense than mouse pad material, yet flexible enough to form, cut and trim. I cut to basic shape and glued it on with contact cement. Did this for two layers. Afterwards trimmed with a new single-edged razor then finished up with some #800 wet/dry.