Fair point. I ordered the 3 spacer 'kit' that included the screws for 1, 2 and 3 spacers. I only needed the 2 spacers, but it saved me any potential ass pain with the spacers.
- Thread starter Massoud
- Start date
Fair point. I ordered the 3 spacer 'kit' that included the screws for 1, 2 and 3 spacers. I only needed the 2 spacers, but it saved me any potential ass pain with the spacers.
That is the best way to go, the three spacer kit "should" have most physiques covered and you get whatever you need.
Sully
Here's my Crescent Customs 6 Creedmoor I just listed in the classifieds http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...-4463-a1ce-e9c5b2acb6a2_zpsdc52983a.jpg.html]
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So does the bipod stud ONLY screw into the polymer fore end, not the aluminum chassis underneath? There were no instructions so I just used the stainless backer and put it in the forward most slot on the underside of the plastic fore end and then the used the plastic washer on the outside and screwed the bipod stud in. Seems stable but wondering how it will be loading a bipod with it just anchored in the polymer...
Given the anchor screws between the polymer and the spine, I wouldn't worry about it too much. I haven't had any issues yet with mine. If it really bugs you, you can get the spigot mount, which bolts directly to the aluminum.
I'm 6'3" with long arms and ended up with the large grips and 3 spacers. I ordered the 1-3 spacer kit so that I had the hardware to try it several different ways. I tried it with 2 spacers at first but 3 seems to be about right. So far I'm still really pleased with the X-Ray, I was able to take it out to 300 yards the other weekend and managed a 3-shot group (conserving ammo for now) of 1.2" using FGMM 175. I hope to make it to a longer distance range to get some more practice soon.
I also just received my Specwar 762 suppressor which I can't wait to try out. I have the Specwar brake on my Tikka so the can attaches easily and locks up tight.
I also just received my Specwar 762 suppressor which I can't wait to try out. I have the Specwar brake on my Tikka so the can attaches easily and locks up tight.
The bipod stud should go through the forend and thread into one of those oval flat nuts that comes with the chassis. The best mount point is the second hole from the front of the forend. This is close to the screws that go up into the backbone and also allows the Harris to sit in the grooves that are there to help it not twist.
Justin
Justin
Thanks Justin, just wanted to make sure I was doing it right.
Dammit, every time I turn around, something else I want for my X-Ray is sold out.
Any ETA on the flush sling plates for the spigot coming back in stock?
Any ETA on the flush sling plates for the spigot coming back in stock?
Maybe this was covered but I'm looking at mine and trying to figure out the best way to mount a sling. What about a qd cup in the large rear screw hole? Then atlas rail up front? I figured I could just mount a Harris and sling swivel back by the butthook if I had to and get poked by the mag. Would kinda mess up the rear bag use though I think.
Wooden, fret not, it was just a website inventory error. We have them in stock. Try ordering again.
Matt, the simplest way is the QD cup in the rear like you mentioned and then our Ambi Sling Mount up front or you could do something like what was pictured earlier in this thread with the QD mount that fits on a rail. The chassis comes with a MOE L2 and L3 rail, the L2 fits up front on the bottom of the forend. You can also do the sling swivel by the bag rider as you mentioned.
Green is coming soon but it will be at least a week it looks like.
Thanks guys,
Justin
Matt, the simplest way is the QD cup in the rear like you mentioned and then our Ambi Sling Mount up front or you could do something like what was pictured earlier in this thread with the QD mount that fits on a rail. The chassis comes with a MOE L2 and L3 rail, the L2 fits up front on the bottom of the forend. You can also do the sling swivel by the bag rider as you mentioned.
Green is coming soon but it will be at least a week it looks like.
Thanks guys,
Justin
Thanks. So far I'm really liking the system. Rifle should be done in a few days then I can really evaluate it.
Has anyone had any issues with magazines jumping out of the mag well under recoil? I have had it happen a few times now with Alpha mags, but I can't quite nail down what is causing it. Pulling the plastic fore end back a touch to tighten the magazine fit has helped, but I still had a magazine jump out once this weekend while shooting.
I get the sneaking suspicion it is because of the smaller magazine latch nose on the Alpha Industries magazines I am currently using, but I wanted to see if anyone else has run across the issue.
I get the sneaking suspicion it is because of the smaller magazine latch nose on the Alpha Industries magazines I am currently using, but I wanted to see if anyone else has run across the issue.
As you mentioned, the magazine well is adjustable. You can shift the forend back a bit and also the trigger guard forward. You can get it so tight the mag won't go in. Having said that, the Alpha mags run small in our experience and there are some other things with it. We recommend AI mags although there are other good options.
Justin
Justin
The local fun shop has an Accurate mag (I'm pretty sure it is, anyway) in Ruger packaging for the GSR that I will pick up on the way home this afternoon. I won't get to run my 308 again until next weekend, but I will be giving that mag a try - I needed a 5 round mag anyway. I've only had the issue so far with positional shooting (not prone), and I have had a friend watch to make sure I wasn't tapping the mag release under recoil. I had forgotten about moving the trigger guard forward, so I may try that as well. Looking at the latch nub on the Alpha mag and comparing it to an AI or McCree mag, the nub on the Alpha is a bit smaller, and doesn't have a hole on the bottom like some other mags do. I have been tempted to cut a small hole in the bottom of the latch nub and pry it a bit farther out to allow for more engagement. Once I have had the chance to test it more to nail down the problem, I will report back.
As a side question, when the mag is fully seated, should the magazine release sit back flush with the trigger guard like it does with no mag inserted, or should it be slightly extended downward?
The Accurate Mags are a pretty good copy of the AI, it's really difficult to tell how they differ. Modding that Alpha mag like you mentioned may help as well. The mag release will sit in a slightly different position when the mag is in as compared to when it is out, so yes that is normal. It is a result of the amount of travel we spec'd for the catch.
Justin
Justin
Unfortunately, I pulled a bonehead and forgot that the Ruger brand accurate mags won't work, as my COAL is too long. However, a friend from the range is hooking me up with a pair of accurate mags without the plates this weekend. It will probably still be next weekend before I have ammo loaded up and can get back to the range to try to reproduce the problem.
If all else fails Justin, what about putting a stiffer spring in the magazine catch/release arm?
That could work but so far we haven't had one shooter not be able to adjust the magwell and get it where it needs to be for whatever mag he was running. We do have some small springs that go inside the standard mag catch spring to stiffen it up that we use with the Catch Extender for the TRG-42 so as a last resort there's that option.
Justin
Justin
Next weekend I will take some extra ammo to the range and try to get the problem to happen more consistently. Once I can reproduce it, I am going to try different magazines and play with the mag well front and rear positioning a little bit.
Right now, I still think smart money is on the Alpha mags, but I want to nail down the exact problem. Issues like this always get my inner engineer going, and I want to find the problem and nuke it from orbit.
I am currently battling the same issue, I have 2 AI 10 Round mags 1 AI 5 round mag and 1 10 round Mcree mag all of which will stay put when single feeding and firing. Once I load a single round in the magazine and fire one off the magazine drops out every time. I have adjusted the forend about 1/8" rearward and now my magazines don't slide in well and will not drop freely. I just received my barreled action back from the smith today, so I should be able to get out and test the chassis out again within a week or so.
I never really thought there was so much clearance in the mag well area that the magazine would not stay put. As Justin points out there is a little bit of room to adjust it so maybe it needs a little tweaking.
Interesting that you're having the problem with AI and McCree mags. I think a video camera and some extra ammo are going to be needed next weekend.
Sent from the U.S.S. Sulaco
Spigot, flush cup and sling plate for the spigot ordered. Now I will have the clearance for the larger barricades and windows to fit between my bipod and the barricade stop.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
This is one of my first posts on the hide, and first bolt gun build. I have to thank krg. I was deployed at time of build process and they kept me updated every step of the way.
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Great looking stick, sir. Also, you will have a PM incoming shortly.
Ok, so I did some experimenting tonight. I hung up my rifle from some 550 cord to let the rifle swing freely fore and aft, and whacked the muzzle device with a rubber hammer. The idea was to try to simulate recoil without actually firing. I tried empty mags, 1 shot, 2, and more - I couldn't reproduce the problem with 10 round Alpha mags, a 10 round AI or a 5 round Accurate Mag.
I went ahead and pulled the plastic fore end back as far as the adjustment range will allow. The mags still seat easily enough, and drop free when empty, but they have a little less play when locked in.
I guess I will see what happens this weekend when I hit the range with it again.
I went ahead and pulled the plastic fore end back as far as the adjustment range will allow. The mags still seat easily enough, and drop free when empty, but they have a little less play when locked in.
I guess I will see what happens this weekend when I hit the range with it again.
So now that I have my Stiller SPECTRE mounted in my KRG X-Ray, it's time to build a matching trainer. Since the Remington 700 (40x) route will certainly cost an arm and a leg and still not be a repeater, any chance that there is a Sako 22lr rifle / action that will bolt into the Sako T3 version of the KRG chassis?
Sorry to say Scott that there is not. The Sako Quad is a flat bottom action rather than round. We had worked on a Quad chassis but availability of the rifle seems so spotty that it hasn't been a top priority for us. We still may do a special/limited production run like our 995 chassis. Thank you,
Justin
Justin
Good news - My spigot mount came in today, along with the flush mount sling plate and a QD socket for the stock. The socket actually went on my SBR, as I had previously robbed the sling mount off my ACS to put on my X-Ray.
I got the spigot mounted up, as well as the flush QD plate, only to discover two of my QD sling swivels will not fit it. A third (spare, different brand) I had fits just fine, though, so it looks like my old friend tolerance stacking has reared his ugly head. Again.
Despite the issue with the tolerance stacking, the spigot mount is AWESOME. I finally have the space I need for the massive window frames at K&M, and shooting from prone seems to work better off the spigot mount with my BRM-S one notch out.
Finally, I went to grab the bag of parts that came with the X-Ray to get one of the MOE rails out to add to my spigot.... and I can't find the bag. I've looked everywhere I can think of, but no joy. Right now, I am just hoping that the spare parts didn't get tossed out with the box the stock shipped in.
One of these days, I will find Murphy and kick his damn teeth in.
Justin, will the screws provided with the standard MOE rails fit on the spigot mount? I can grab them locally quite easily, and it's easier than ordering one and waiting for it to ship - assuming the stock hardware works.
Edit - The screws with the MOE rail do not fit the spigot, but the spigot included some extra screws that do work with the MOE rail, so that is what I used.
I got the spigot mounted up, as well as the flush QD plate, only to discover two of my QD sling swivels will not fit it. A third (spare, different brand) I had fits just fine, though, so it looks like my old friend tolerance stacking has reared his ugly head. Again.
Despite the issue with the tolerance stacking, the spigot mount is AWESOME. I finally have the space I need for the massive window frames at K&M, and shooting from prone seems to work better off the spigot mount with my BRM-S one notch out.
Finally, I went to grab the bag of parts that came with the X-Ray to get one of the MOE rails out to add to my spigot.... and I can't find the bag. I've looked everywhere I can think of, but no joy. Right now, I am just hoping that the spare parts didn't get tossed out with the box the stock shipped in.
One of these days, I will find Murphy and kick his damn teeth in.
Justin, will the screws provided with the standard MOE rails fit on the spigot mount? I can grab them locally quite easily, and it's easier than ordering one and waiting for it to ship - assuming the stock hardware works.
Edit - The screws with the MOE rail do not fit the spigot, but the spigot included some extra screws that do work with the MOE rail, so that is what I used.
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Finally got to the range today to test out different forend positions to help retain the magazine through recoil and found that if it is no in the tightest position on the magazine that recoil will drop all of my mags. I currently have the forend all the way rearward which in turn keeps me from inserting magazines almost completely and does not allow for magazines to drop freely. I was only able to put 20 rounds through the rifle and so I feel that my trials were done very poorly. So far the chassis has nearly 300 rounds through it most of which have been single fed at the beginning and now has transitioned into loaded mags. Hopefully I can resolve this issue without wasting too much more ammunition.
Hey guys, Sako green should start shipping after the holiday and FDE will be not long after. Have a good 4th!
Justin
Justin
Massoud,
About ready to order, but wanted to ask: How do you select the color option on the website?
Green ones start shipping this week. They are up for ordering now, there's a color and grip size option now. Thanks guys,
Justin
Justin
Thanks Justin!
Hi Justin,
Any indication of when the FDE/Tan/brown stocks will be on line? I've got a pre-order in with Delta Tac down here in Australia and can't wait!!! Looks like a great product.
Cheers, Matt
Very nice pics JBM. That shorty can idea is growing on me too.
Green are shipping, tan are a week or two out still. We've been expecting tan for awhile now but we're pretty close. Thanks guys,
Justin
Green are shipping, tan are a week or two out still. We've been expecting tan for awhile now but we're pretty close. Thanks guys,
Justin
I know plenty of people are using the AW 10-rd magazine (like I am) but I'm not happy with the consistency of feeding. The magazine seems to sit a little low in the chassis, much like my AICS did. In that chassis, I bent up the feedlips on a few of my mags to get the round to sit higher, but that caused other issues.
* Is there any easy way to adjust the height of the AW magazine in the chassis? Is there anyone else seeing this issue? Justin, maybe a +0.050" magazine release that would sit the magazine a little higher for those that need it, that could be swapped in with a minimum of gunsmithing? (I'm just guessing on the 0.050" number, I have not measured it....)
* I see pics with the 10rd AICS magazine. Are these feeding reliably, and if so, where can you get these with the front plate removed? (My 6.5CM with 140gr Berger Hybrid is too long....)
* Is there any easy way to adjust the height of the AW magazine in the chassis? Is there anyone else seeing this issue? Justin, maybe a +0.050" magazine release that would sit the magazine a little higher for those that need it, that could be swapped in with a minimum of gunsmithing? (I'm just guessing on the 0.050" number, I have not measured it....)
* I see pics with the 10rd AICS magazine. Are these feeding reliably, and if so, where can you get these with the front plate removed? (My 6.5CM with 140gr Berger Hybrid is too long....)
Is there any updates for the Savage line?
I believe earlier (or in a separate thread perhaps) that the Savage action was too thick to fit the W3C or X-Ray chassis. Specifically (IIRC) the side safety being the issue (would make the chassis too thin in that area)..
Here is a quick pic of the green one fellas, it looks darker in the pic than it does out in the sun:
More stuff guys....
-We do have a .080" longer mag catch, Scott I sent you an email. You may be able to get AICS mags without the spacer plate from Accurate Mag.
-The Savage would not fit into the X-ray or Whiskey-3 but we are exploring other options for it
-We'll put up some higher quality pics when those are ready
Thanks guys,
Justin
-We do have a .080" longer mag catch, Scott I sent you an email. You may be able to get AICS mags without the spacer plate from Accurate Mag.
-The Savage would not fit into the X-ray or Whiskey-3 but we are exploring other options for it
-We'll put up some higher quality pics when those are ready
Thanks guys,
Justin
Will this stock be available for a Win 70 LA?
We'll be trying to get it going for the Win 70 but we won't know for awhile if it will work. Thank you,
Justin
Justin
any way we could pictures of the FDE stocks? And ETA on when they are back in stock? Thanks
Apparently there are some issues with making a chassis for a long action tikka mag. I wonder if it would be feasible to run a short magnum like .300 wsm or better yet 6.5 SAUM with the xray?
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