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Gunsmithing Remington 700 DBM opinions from guys that put them in.....and use them.

@pmclaine

Any chance you can name your source for the stock? i just started a thread last night in the Bolt Action forum talking about putting together an Origin build very similar to what you have planned here, but a 20” 7mm-08. I also want an M40esque BLO finished wood stock, and yours looks about perfect.

Sub’d and looking forward to further inspiration.
 
Anb618 said:
@pmclaine

Any chance you can name your source for the stock? i just started a thread last night in the Bolt Action forum talking about putting together an Origin build very similar to what you have planned here, but a 20” 7mm-08. I also want an M40esque BLO finished wood stock, and yours looks about perfect.

Sub’d and looking forward to further inspiration.
Click to expand...


Think this will bring you to his Ebay page.....


I also bought a Winchester 1902 stock from him and it dropped right in, inletting was good.

Insane Im building such an expensive rifle off such a cheap stock but the striping caught me.

These are not exact M40 profile, flat butt pad is wrong and the comb does not rise as high as it should.

Someone at M40 rifle said he will do correct M40 profile if we can provide him a pattern stock.
 
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JMGlasgow said:
An M1 Garand extractor will work on a M14 bolt. I got a few extras made by Beretta when they were cheap. They are just as good as the GI ones too. If your bolt is a TRW it probably already has a USGI extractor and I wouldn't worry about it but always have a spare kit. I have both a Supermatch M1A and a Frankenstein Scout. The scout is a Fulton Armory receiver and an LRB bolt and other parts from various companies. Some folks on M14forum say the receiver and bolt won't work together but they're wrong.
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Got a spare GI M1 Garand extractor for my parts bin when my friends Springfield stb. His gun was brand new first day firing and they wouldn't just send him an extractor that I could have installed for him, he had to send the whole rifle back.
 
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pmclaine said:
Lots of options out there. Lots of opinions.

Figured Id ask here amongst the people that install them in hopes of finding out what is preferred as far as ease of fitting and just plain works for the customer.

My build is going to be a wood stocked R700 in .308.

Kind of an M40esque heavy barrel with a detachable box and tiger striped walnut.

View attachment 7206334

Screwing up and impulse buying wood is leading me into an expensive project.

I dont have a lot of room like a McMillan stocked rifle might offer so Im thinking an option using the standard R700 BDL inlet may be the way to go.

I like the idea of the mag release being in the trigger guard.

Ive come to the opinion this PTG product might be my way to go.....

View attachment 7206328

Remington (SA) 700 Detachable Mag Bottom Metal - Flush Mount Oberndorf M5 Style - Pacific Tool and Gauge

Remington (SA) 700 Flush Mount Detach Mag Bottom Metal - Oberndorf M5 Style at Pacific Tool and Gauge
pacifictoolandgauge.com pacifictoolandgauge.com

Im assuming this uses single column magazines.

I like the idea of staggered but that probably goes against my desire to remain inside the existing BDL inlet.

Any help with my decision making is appreciated - either installation issues or end user problems.

Thank you.
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That is a beautiful piece of Walnut !!
 
jdemp1 said:
That is a beautiful piece of Walnut !!
Click to expand...


Its the only piece of the project I question.

Its nuts Im building this project off a $150 piece of wood I bought off Ebay on the spur of the moment searching for an M40 clone stock for someone else.

If @LongRifles Inc. determines the stock too much the weak link I may go McMillan A1-3 style.
 
If it makes the OP feel any better, I just bought the same stock (second hand, but same original source). The seller didn't work on it, to include leaving it unfinished. I love my Manners and KRG stocks, but there is just something about walnut that continues to call my name. I'm thinking Badger M5 for DBM. Badger will do the in-letting for $75 to include return shipping; might be the better option over my Dremel and file skills. I also plan on fitting in a RRS rail with T nuts. This could certainly turn into a disaster.
 
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jd138 said:
If it makes the OP feel any better, I just bought the same stock (second hand, but same original source). The seller didn't work on it, to include leaving it unfinished. I love my Manners and KRG stocks, but there is just something about walnut that continues to call my name. I'm thinking Badger M5 for DBM. Badger will do the in-letting for $75 to include return shipping; might be the better option over my Dremel and file skills. I also plan on fitting in a RRS rail with T nuts. This could certainly turn into a disaster.
Click to expand...


Thank you for the encouraging words.

Please let me know how things go with your project. That seller comes across some nicely figured wood. i see his short action R700s now incorporate a raised comb - good improvement there.

Im going with the LRI DBM and intend to have three mag options - flush, 5 round and 10 round.

The stocks look pretty well made. I will have a reinforcing pin installed just to strengthen that little section of wood between the trigger opening and the mag well - Im going with a brass pin reminiscent of the USMC M40.

My intent is a "handy" rifle, kind of on the short side "svelt in dimensions" but Im going with such a big barrel I fucked that all up. Fitting the barrel in the wood will be the trick. If there is enough meat it should be fine. If Chad sees a real problem Im sure he will tell me. Might end up looking like the prototype USMC M40 that they tried to stuff what became the M40A1 profile barrel into.

Something about big barrels just rings my bells though. Size matters to me.
 
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Something about big barrels just rings my bells though. Size matters to me.
Click to expand...
I hear ya, I am currently using a M24 contour, so I am also contemplating how shaving down the barrel channel will look when I am "done".

I'd use a HS Precision bottom metal. It will be flush, and usually they are drop in for 700s.
Click to expand...
Solid recommendation. I used the gen2 in a HS stock I had previously. I really liked the fit but while their proprietary mages are nice, I am not sure I want to have two sets of mags.

OK pmclaine, I'll stop dirtying up your thread with my musings.
 
jd138 said:
I hear ya, I am currently using a M24 contour, so I am also contemplating how shaving down the barrel channel will look when I am "done".


Solid recommendation. I used the gen2 in a HS stock I had previously. I really liked the fit but while their proprietary mages are nice, I am not sure I want to have two sets of mags.

OK pmclaine, I'll stop dirtying up your thread with my musings.
Click to expand...


Love the musings.

It's gun talk.

I usually spend too much time in the Bear Pit and come out of there depressed or pissed.
 
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FjallJager said:
I'd use a HS Precision bottom metal. It will be flush, and usually they are drop in for 700s.
Click to expand...


Take a look at the LRI option in Chads post on page 1.

It's beautiful. I will be able to use standard AI mags.

Im intending to get a flush mag and if possible have the plate engraved with a sweet EGA.
 
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This was my view when @LongRifles Inc. called this morning.......

P8069530[1].JPG


P8069531[1].JPG



Seems someone did some Dremel work on the bolt body of my 5 digit R700.......New bolt body on the way to Sturgis tomorrow via the USPS.

Sounds like work is progressing.

Ive given chad the Okay to post any and all pictures Ill have to check my build account with them there may be pics already available.
 
Chad sent me a picture of my bolt body......Who does this? Dremels should require a license. My bolt is on the left, a factory Remington striker cut is on the right....

1596710767645.png


Fortunately I have a couple of bolt bodies from the 5 and 6 digit era that have that sweet shaped bolt handle.

What I really like about the old bolts is that they have a high nickle content and when they are blued the actually turn purple or "plum" being the correct gunsmithing description.

Put a rack of R700s out with later bolts and one old school bolt it can easily be seen which is old just by the color of the bolt.
 
@LongRifles Inc.

Saw this stock on Ebay. A much better match for my M40ish rifle.....

www.ebay.com

Remington 700 M40 Short Action Rifle Gun Stock BDL | eBay

The barrel channel is cut for varmint barrel but can be opened up for heavy bull barrels. The butt is cut for the original curve style M40 buttplate.
www.ebay.com

1603469566952.png


1603470120008.png


Beefier forend will have more wood to accept my fat barrel.

Having it shipped direct to you.

Assume you havent started work on my project yet...........

You are a busy man sir. Love your M70 bottom metal project.
 
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Going to have to get a new butt plate for this build.

I filed the other 16601 down so much that there is no way it will work with this stock.

I can try to find another 16601 on Ebay and hope it will fit the new wood with enough overhang to fit it properly.

I took a class this spring though shooting a M40 with a 16601 and it beat the absolute shit out of me at 120 round for the day.

Maybe in keeping with the M40 theme I should ask @LongRifles Inc. to fit a black basket weave Pachmayer to the stock.

A little bit of cushion wouldnt be a bad thing.
 
For temporary recoil mitigation add weight. Get a 1" drill and punch a couple holes deep in the butt under the plate. Cast some lead weights you can stuff in there (and remove when you don't want them), and then install the buttplate over it. 1"OD x 4" long weight will be a ~1.25lb each. Remove them when you're not expecting to burn out the barrel in an afternoon.

Here's what I mean. I just did this while dinner was warming in the oven:

Grab a couple short pieces of 2x4, clamp them tight, and screw them together. Drill them to depth on the joint. Melt some stick-on wheel weights (it's denser than any other lead alloy, and it'll shrink the most once cool) and pour them into the mould so that there's a meniscus. It'll shrink as it cools and suck flush to the mould. You can "fire polish" the end too, so it's the last part to solidify and will be mostly flat. Let it cool a while and then unscrew the mould halves and pull it out. A little filing, or maybe even just burnishing of the OD, and it should just slide into a 1" hole cut with the same drill.

CastingWeight.JPG

CastingMould.JPG

LeadWeight.JPG


I didn't set the drill depth, this plug is about 2.8" long. Hardwood or something with fine pores and finer grain might yield a better surface finish once cool than my shit pine.
 
mcfred said:
For temporary recoil mitigation add weight. Get a 1" drill and punch a couple holes deep in the butt under the plate. Cast some lead weights you can stuff in there (and remove when you don't want them), and then install the buttplate over it. 1"OD x 4" long weight will be a ~1.25lb each. Remove them when you're not expecting to burn out the barrel in an afternoon.

Here's what I mean. I just did this while dinner was warming in the oven:

Grab a couple short pieces of 2x4, clamp them tight, and screw them together. Drill them to depth on the joint. Melt some stick-on wheel weights (it's denser than any other lead alloy, and it'll shrink the most once cool) and pour them into the mould so that there's a meniscus. It'll shrink as it cools and suck flush to the mould. You can "fire polish" the end too, so it's the last part to solidify and will be mostly flat. Let it cool a while and then unscrew the mould halves and pull it out. A little filing, or maybe even just burnishing of the OD, and it should just slide into a 1" hole cut with the same drill.

View attachment 7452644
View attachment 7452643
View attachment 7452645

I didn't set the drill depth, this plug is about 2.8" long. Hardwood or something with fine pores and finer grain might yield a better surface finish once cool than my shit pine.
Click to expand...


I have that suggestion on my build sheet concerning adding weight behind the BP.

It wont be a hunting rifle. I may take it to the woods but Ill be hiking it, not a hunter really.

The cool factor will be taking it to shooting classes and having people ask "Whos the old guy with the antique rifle?" than having it shoot lights out.

My barrel choice and the builders at Long Rifles will determine if they can enhance my meager skills.
 
There might be a slot in the fore-end under the barrel that could be weighted too, if you're concerned with balance point. I intend to fatten up a match rifle I have by filling the fore-end slot and the butt, while having the ability to remove it. For my local competitions, there seems to be nearly no penalty for having a boat anchor of a rifle.
 
mcfred said:
There might be a slot in the fore-end under the barrel that could be weighted too, if you're concerned with balance point. I intend to fatten up a match rifle I have by filling the fore-end slot and the butt, while having the ability to remove it. For my local competitions, there seems to be nearly no penalty for having a boat anchor of a rifle.
Click to expand...

Yep fore end has a lightening slot.

Like the balance point to be just about front of mag well.

Chad will know what to do.

Think Ill order up a Pachmayer 500B Presentation pad to use instead of a 16601 butt plate.

The 500B will be from the M40A1 series of rifle. If I get it in black aesthetically it wont be far from the looks of a 16601.

The minimal recoil absorbtion will be appreciated.
 
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Sweet NOS Pachmayer Presentation pad being sent to LRI...

1603591286767.png


The wood sanded with a curve for the 16601 plate will have to be planed flat but fitting the Pachmayer medium should be easier than trying to find a suitably large 16601....

1603591403216.png


Ill have to find something to do with the stock on page 1.

Try to find one of those cheap ass RR reciver "Varmint" Remingtons in .223 that was selling awhile ago and build a rifle for my son.

and upgrade from his/his sisters .22 rifles but familiar....

1603591913357.png
 
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pmclaine said:
Sweet NOS Pachmayer Presentation pad being sent to LRI...

View attachment 7453572

The wood sanded with a curve for the 16601 plate will have to be planed flat but fitting the Pachmayer medium should be easier than trying to find a suitably large 16601....

View attachment 7453575

Ill have to find something to do with the stock on page 1.

Try to find one of those cheap ass RR reciver "Varmint" Remingtons in .223 that was selling awhile ago and build a rifle for my son.

and upgrade from his/his sisters .22 rifles but familiar....

View attachment 7453587
Click to expand...

Sweet Pachmayr pad indeed. ;)
 
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Terry Cross said:
Late reply and tangent....
Black and white of the Marine in the sitting shooting position is definitely not Carlos.

Definitely is Carlos in the pictures of the medal ceremony.

Pardon if this was already pointed out.


./
Click to expand...


Nope you are correct.

Original post had a well known picture of an Army dude with a scoped M14.

I think some research occurred and the original article was updated because Military.com got tired of people expecting there to be some truth in the shit they produce.

Noted that the other day as that certainly is CH being awarded his Silver Star.
 
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Bought a new stock thats shipping direct to @LongRifles Inc.

Its a closer USMC M40 profile.

Going to go with an M40A1ish Pachmayer butt pad (via @kft101 ) in lieu of the 16601 Remington BP.

So project changed slightly but still pending a place in line of a busy shop.

Its moment will come.

If I get and updates in LRITracker I will certainly post them.
 
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1604088615793.png


1604088681628.png




Can't wait to see what the bolt handle bluing comes out like.

Those 60s bolt handles had a high nickel content and they tend to come out purple, more accurately plumbed.

They can be spotted with n a rack of later 700s from a distance.

Should it not plumb........no big deal, it's going to be a sweet rifle.
 
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Not going to run the Spuhr on my build.

Going to give it a bit more USMC pedigree....picked these up in the PX.

1604582102852.png


1604582128358.png


Gambling that with the Badger lugged M40A3 style rail the 56mm S&B bell will still clear my barrel with the low M40A3 rings........I hope anyway.

Thank you @THE SENTINEL for making parts available for my build.

2.2 inch bell, 1 inch rings, whatever added clearance the rail will provide...

A 50MM (1.9" bell) Premier in A3 rings on a similar M40ish build of mine....That Tenebraex scope cap rotates 360 degrees without hitting the barrel.

1604582693884.png
 
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That Status Tracker truly elevates LRI over so many other shops. Work looks great.
 
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LongRifles Inc. said:
You all can thank Kalli my wife. She runs this thing and everyone in here is deathly afraid of her, lol. :)
Click to expand...


She is also very helpful and patient speaking to customers on the phone suffering their dumb questions about "Did you guys happen to receive a mystery stock that belongs to me?'

Thank her again.

Shouldnt you be working.....on my rifle.......
 
That's awesome. LRI does do a good job of keeping you informed with their tracker. I currently have an M40 style rifle being built there now as well. Any progress on yours?
 
Basic user said:
That's awesome. LRI does do a good job of keeping you informed with their tracker. I currently have an M40 style rifle being built there now as well. Any progress on yours?
Click to expand...
I have a Rem700 6.5 PRC being built now as well. Currently in time and tig.
 
Basic user said:
That's awesome. LRI does do a good job of keeping you informed with their tracker. I currently have an M40 style rifle being built there now as well. Any progress on yours?
Click to expand...
bmeudy said:
I have a Rem700 6.5 PRC being built now as well. Currently in time and tig.
Click to expand...

No more recent updates.

Holidays here I hope the LRI people are enjoying turkey.

Gravy is actually a great cutting lube perhaps next week they will have the CNCs spraying tasty sauce all over our rifles.

Pictures of what you guys have going on please.
 
pmclaine said:
No more recent updates.

Holidays here I hope the LRI people are enjoying turkey.

Gravy is actually a great cutting lube perhaps next week they will have the CNCs spraying tasty sauce all over our rifles.

Pictures of what you guys have going on please.
Click to expand...


Here's the stock I chose. Basic Boyds walnut for like 200 bucks. Throwing the original M40 scope mount I had sitting in the basement all these years. Weaver T-10 I chose for the glass just got finished at Ironsight. Hoping to score a Triggertech trigger over the holidays at a good price.
 

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Basic user said:
Here's the stock I chose. Basic Boyds walnut for like 200 bucks. Throwing the original M40 scope mount I had sitting in the basement all these years. Weaver T-10 I chose for the glass just got finished at Ironsight. Hoping to score a Triggertech trigger over the holidays at a good price.
Click to expand...


I think you must be my brother from another mother.......

What finish you going with on the metal?
 
I was thinking just standard issue flat black, (i guess that's 'armor black') but I'm now rethinking it to something a tad lighter? I remember pulling my issue weapon out of the box in the Army, and the receiver was the flattest deepest black I've ever seen, but the steel parts were just a tad lighter than that; but now I can't find anything that resembles that in Cerakots portfolio.
What are you doing yours in?
 
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Basic user said:
I was thinking just standard issue flat black, but I'm now rethinking it to something a tad lighter? I remember pulling my issue weapon out of the box in the Army, and the receiver was the flattest deepest black I've ever seen, but the steel parts were just a tad lighter than that; but now I can't find anything that resembles that in Cerakots portfolio.
What are you doing yours in?
Click to expand...


Im going with parkerizing on the carbon steel, hot blue the bolt, anodize the aluminum to match the park.

Im not sure what color Chads park is. Some use a technique that gives a dusty grey, some use a chemical that comes out deep black, both will patina to sweetness.

Park is a living finish, scratches heal, it ages and gets character, it requires the owner to care for and love it.

Everything else is paint.


Edit/Add - Black Oxide is the stainless steel version of parkerizing - God recognizes it as legit.
 
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