I've seen some never fired factory barrels on eBay and armslist going for anywhere between $100-$200.
Just purchased a gen 2 6.5 that gets to sit in DROS jail for the next 10 days.
maybe I've missed it but does anyone have info on mount heights required for a 56mm objective scope? I would like to go with the badgers as I've used them before with good luck but I think they only go up to 1.49" and I'm not sure that's enough.
maybe I've missed it but does anyone have info on mount heights required for a 56mm objective scope? I would like to go with the badgers as I've used them before with good luck but I think they only go up to 1.49" and I'm not sure that's enough.
I have a Vortex Razor with 56mm objective and went with the Seekins Precision matched rings that were 1.45" and it is perfect for me. I barely have the cheek piece raised on my Magpul PRS
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Any gen2 hand guards? Replacing mine as soon as I get it.
I just watched this. I agree, if you aren't a believer in this platform you are out of touch. its no GAP pr savage, but with a little tuning its a freakin hammer. I may look into this option in the future if I can find a used 308 RPR at the right price.
Those I have not seen. Searches for those are mostly turning up cheap Chinese crap
I'll sell u mine
I'm trying to sell mine dude lol
Aw. Your post wasn't clear.
I'd say that would be the last(Hinge) of your concerns!
Brake removal is technically easy, physically can be hard. The brake has two parts: the brake body and the jam nut behind it that locks the brake body in position. Ruger torques these on hard. You don't necessarily need a barrel vise or action wrench, but I highly recommend that you secure the rifle - having a friend hold it will work. To remove, get a long punch or screwdriver that will fit in the center holes of the brake. A good 7/8" wrench on the jam nut. Heat the brake with a heat gun until its too hot to touch. Insert the screwdriver/punch, put the wrench on the jam nut, and simultaneously turn in opposite directions - turn the brake as if you are threading it OFF the muzzle, turn the jam nut as if you are tightening it on the muzzle. If you're one of the "lucky" owners with the jam nut up against the barrel shoulder, this will be a little tougher and may tweak the edges of the holes in the brake. It will take a LOT of torque, and mine popped loose like an overtightened lug nut. Good luck. BTW, Ruger sells these brakes for $85.
Yup. I just read a post on a different site a couple days ago and the guy said he was using 1.5" for 56mm
I have a Gen 2 in 6.5 CM and had the same issue with the hand guard regardless of how much I oiled it. It would just absorb the oil and look dry with one exception. It would show where I put my hands on the hand guard apparently not absorbing any body oils!!! None of my firearms are safe queens......they all get used regularly but I learned long ago to take care of all my things....from the cars to the motorcycle, camera gear, and my firearms. I am anal about maintenance and clean all my guns when I get back from the range. I also strive to maintain their appearance. That being said, I got tired of dealing with the RPR hand guard so the RPR is out getting cerakote sprayed on the upper and lower receiver, hand guard, barrel, and the Anarchy Outdoors bolt shroud and bolt knob. Problem solved!!!
Thanks for the info.
I love Cerakote but I'm going to wait a bit until the rifle shows some wear. I shoot a lot so it shouldn't be too long. Might as well get something out of this finish before tearing it all down and giving it a make-over... if I can wait it out. I'm really loving the two tone FDE and black look.
So I took the 6.5 out hunting last weekend, was supposed to be a pig hunt, wind was blowing for two days,all day at 25-45-65 mph. We were very near the Canton, Texas area where the tornados were that killed several people. We were oblivious as we had no outside contact while we were at the ranch. Even though there were NO PIGS to be seen, the turkey were out in force, and it's spring turkey season here. In the county where we were, Rio Grande can be harvested with a rifle. I took two large Toms, probably 2 and 3 year olds by looking at the spurs, at 128 and 188 yards Top of crop, through the neck on both, 100% meat retained. 143gr ELD-x, 43.7 gr RL-17. I used Ballistic Arc and Weatherflow to get a dope on the scope, perfect results. We had one of them for a family dinner Sunday night, the other went to the freezer.
https://goo.gl/photos/L3828iekxkZ1iNbx6
Griz44Mag
https://goo.gl/photos/L3828iekxkZ1iNbx6
Griz44Mag
^ Nice Griz!
I have my my first open 1000 yard day of the season coming up Monday. Hoping I have the same good luck.
I have my my first open 1000 yard day of the season coming up Monday. Hoping I have the same good luck.
I've always thought the same thing. I'm just gonna let it wear and then give the whole rifle that makeover. Can't decide between FDE and OD. They both look awesome.
LOL, you know that's gonna drive the Libtards over the edge. We can't let the evil anarchist have those automatic assault guns with those monster clips!!!!
BTW, what does that contraption weigh in at? Gotta be pushing 20 pounds with the big Vortex with extra junk clamped to that, the can, bipod and surplus ammo can strapped to the bottom....?
LOL, and I thought my use of a RPR for hunting was heavy with a 5 round mag in it..... Good one Lefty,
^ Yeah put a sling on that and walk through the woods with it. You'd have a sore neck and shoulder. On the other hand, you could make turkey in your area an endangered species!!
Just got this bore guide from PMA Tool, didn't know if it had been mentioned yet, so thought I'd post it in case somebody is looking for one. (tried Lucas, but like a lot of others, got no reponse to emails. Got this from PMA in a week.) Caliber specific, mine is 6.5 CM, aluminum, anodized, rod guide, O-rings, solvent port: da woiks. $65.95 + $7.95 shipping. Fit is great; nicest bore guide I've used. Hipe this helps.
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Had a decent day out at 1000 today. It was very cold and very windy so everyone was just kinda doing their best with what they had to work with. Probably the windiest I've shot at 1000. Was using 175 SMK's with 43.2gr Varget out of my 20" barrel. I usually get a whole lot of 10s and several Xs but today I got a whole lot of 9s with several 10s. That's ok though. 1000 is always a whole lot of fun and I got a zero on a load I can use on a more calm day. Think I'm gonna develop a 190gr SMK load. Good times!
I think it's form vs. function. The FDE with some black mixed in just looks baddass. The OD with some black mixed in looks very functional for the type of terrain we would most likely use the rifle. I don't see myself ever returning to the desert but I sure like the FDE look. So if I stay true to the utilitarian purpose of the rifle, assuming I will use it in a domestic combat situation in my lifetime, I would go with OD. But honestly, I am also tempted to hot rod it by combining certain parts of polished aluminum, anodized red and gloss black. I build custom motorcycles and I'm having visions of this rifle as a full custom beauty queen that shoots 1/2" groups.
^ I LOVE the red and black look! Even picked out some anodized or metallic reds I'd use. Matches my Evo X. Don't know if I could actually do it over a camo job, but I do really enjoy looking at it a lot
Sling or F-Class?
^ F class. I'm worthless with a sling
Yeah, I've always wondered about that. I don't really have a need to be that camo'd.
If I did, then what about different seasonal colors , terrain types, rock vs grass, snow, etc.
I figured if I really needed to camo I'd just use different wraps of different colors/patterns.
Now if you just want to paint it because it looks bad-ass, then I'm 100% with you.
I don't hunt or anything, and I haven't gotten pissed enough yet to shoot a person. I only shoot paper and steel. If they do see me, it doesn't matter because they never run and they always get shot no matter what color rifle I use
I don't hunt or anything, and I haven't gotten pissed enough yet to shoot a person. I only shoot paper and steel. If they do see me, it doesn't matter because they never run and they always get shot no matter what color rifle I use
I had to share that one with the gang down at the club..... We have a few with $5,000.00 guns with $6,000.00 polish and shine jobs on them (Benchrest class). For sure they will kill paper, and catch a lot of sun for the sparkle. It's like going to an art gallery! (Yea, I'm jealous).
^ Ha! I'm guilty myself. There have been plenty of times I've been bored and just image searched benchrest rifles. It's like a car show. Some of those paint jobs are just AMAZING
Finished up a long range shooting class at Gunsite AZ a few weeks ago. First two pics are from the Gunsite ranges. 3rd pic is on the Biltmore Estate zeroing 100 yards in NC. Learned a lot about long range shooting, and a TON about spotting! This is definitely a hobby I am going to be spending a lot more time and money on! I may change to a 6.5 caliber. I hear all that's needed is just to change the barrel out, right?
My next endeavor is a DT SRS... gotta work a lot more off duty for that! Gotta decide between that and an engagement ring...
My next endeavor is a DT SRS... gotta work a lot more off duty for that! Gotta decide between that and an engagement ring...
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Finished up a long range shooting class at Gunsite AZ a few weeks ago. First two pics are from the Gunsite ranges. 3rd pic is on the Biltmore Estate zeroing 100 yards in NC. Learned a lot about long range shooting, and a TON about spotting! This is definitely a hobby I am going to be spending a lot more time and money on! I may change to a 6.5 caliber. I hear all that's needed is just to change the barrel out, right?
My next endeavor is a DT SRS... gotta work a lot more off duty for that! Gotta decide between that and an engagement ring...
I didn't know the Biltmore had a range
Finished up a long range shooting class at Gunsite AZ a few weeks ago. First two pics are from the Gunsite ranges. 3rd pic is on the Biltmore Estate zeroing 100 yards in NC. Learned a lot about long range shooting, and a TON about spotting! This is definitely a hobby I am going to be spending a lot more time and money on! I may change to a 6.5 caliber. I hear all that's needed is just to change the barrel out, right?
My next endeavor is a DT SRS... gotta work a lot more off duty for that! Gotta decide between that and an engagement ring...
You are correct - to change to 6.5CM is only a barrel change, but you will need go/no-go gauges if you change it yourself. -G
Now if you just want to paint it because it looks bad-ass, then I'm 100% with you.
Exactly. Have you seen some of the custom Ruger 10-22's? I am building one at the moment - polished, anodized, colored stock etc. It's too much fun and can be addicting. Why not the RPR? The black rifle gang will think it's an abomination but that's OK - 1/2 inch groups speak for themselves.
They have a small pistol range that was extended out to 100 yards to accommodate rifles. It's not for public use. Local and Federal LE use it for their qualifications. The Biltmore Estate police/rangers use it for their own use. I'm lucky enough to have access to it when it's not being used. Hopefully it'll get expanded for longer ranges. They definitely have the land, however it is a full of guests and employees so that may not happen.
I saw a youtube video explaining and going through the process. Looks like I'd need a barrel vice and the AR tool (which I have already). Think I'll just let a local gunsmith install it, should cost that much money. The stock Ruger 6.5 barrels appear to be 4 inches longer. I'm assuming that 24" would be the optimal barrel length for 6.5? I haven't seen anyone selling a stock 6.5 barrel, only custom barrels. I may save my money and put it towards the SRS. But if I don't have it before the Advanced Long Range class at Gunsite next year, I'll bite the bullet and convert my RPR to 6.5.
Has anyone here converted an 308 to 6.5? What are your experiences with it and the outcome?
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I asked a week ago or so about replacing the handguard on gen 2s. I know I'll need to remove the brake and the process for it. Will any AR-15 armorer's tool work for this process? I've only assembled AR lowers, but I don't have one of these tools.
Just curious what specific tools I need to swap the handguard.
Just curious what specific tools I need to swap the handguard.
AR armorers wrench and some hex bits. Also the bench vise for the receiver and a torque wrench.
^ What are you guys torquing it to? I'm at 60 ft/lbs
Same
^ Nice
Here are my silly bag-rider experiments.
I started a picatinny rail cover that I sanded the texture off of. That worked pretty good, but I was finding my self not having tall enough rear bags or they seemed unstable at that height.
If you look at how much lower the bag riding portion of a stock like the AI stocks, I decided I wanted to extend the stock lower as well. So I tried slapping on some picatinny risers.
That works even better and I was able to slip the rail cover further back now because I can clear the toe of the stock butt. Surprisingly those bolts don't seem to get in my way. (I'm a lefty so my support hand is coming in from the other side.)
I'm still considering future options, but I'm on the right track for my personal comfort. However I wrap my thumb over the top of that lower riser. It's not really uncomfortable, but not optimal. I'm toying with other ideas.
My take-away so far:
1. Extending the solid portion of the stock lower is more stable than stacking up taller bags.
2. I like having a broader and longer surface to ride the bag.
3. This solution still has some sharp edges that could be improved upon. But I like what I have better than what I started with.
you could save yourself a lot of trouble and just get a PRS Gen3 stock. i have never looked back. i hated that factory stock.
not sure about the LOP issues. the butt pad is adjustable for height and cant. its a very comfortable stock. im not trying to sell you on it, i just see a lot of people going through a lot of trouble to fix the same thing you are trying to fix. i could just never get comfortable behind the rifle with that factory stock. nothing worked. but i couldnt be happier with the PRS (i have a few gen 2's on other rifles so its a familiar product).
What mags are you guys running if you load longer rounds? I had Magpul AICS style mags for a Precision course this weekend and had numerous times when the bolt would not pick up a round. If I lifted the bottom rear of the mag a hair, bolt would catch the round.
Lots of slop with these mags.
Trying to find out if AI or Accurate metal mags will be a better fit. Also saw that Ruger makes a metal AI style mag as well.
Lots of slop with these mags.
Trying to find out if AI or Accurate metal mags will be a better fit. Also saw that Ruger makes a metal AI style mag as well.
A side effect of the multi magazine compatible system. Would be impossible to have a tight fit on every compatible type.
I've used both AI and Accurate mags. The AI mags are a little too tight, front to back in my magwell for my tastes. The Accurate mags go in and out easier which is a plus during competitions. The both function well though.
Anyone thinking about the Ruger RPR 6.5 creedmoor its on sale at Impact Guns for $1139.
https://www.impactguns.com/ruger-pre...short-act.aspx
https://www.impactguns.com/ruger-pre...short-act.aspx
Magpul type AC works great in my 6.5. Smooth and very reliable. Won't ho; the bolt open either!
