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Ruger Precision Rimfire

I measured my targets and as promised here are the small amount of result.s. I found one box of Eley Targt at our farm & ranch store, cost $4.69, and decided to try it. I shot three groups at 50 yards and was shooting into a stiff breese just slightly off to my right. Results for three groups were .447", .416", and four into .407" with one that just dropped opening the group to .636". I watched the crosshairs stay on the bull and the bullet impact low so I'm certain it was the ammo and not me. I moved to the 100 yard target as the wind was getting stronger and shot one group before I saw my flat tire that put a halt to my shooting. It measured 1.201".

They also had Aguila sub-sonic, cost $4.99 a box, and I purchased two boxes to try out which I shot before the Eley. This is not the Super Extra sub-sonic at a cost of $2.99 at Academy which shoots as well as CCI-SV in this rifle. The results were dissapointing with nothing less than an inch at 50 yards. I've shot Aguila Pistol Match in it before and it did about the same as the Eley.
 
Went shooting this week, with my RPR 17HMR shooting at 100 yards with 15 rounds in each target except for upper left, got bored and went home.
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Shooting @ 1” dots @ 50 yards with cci sv. Just bought this rpr 22lr not too long ago, and all I did was torque the action screws to 30 in lbs and turned the trigger down. Trigger sucks by the way. Any recommendations for a superior trigger?
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Installed new trigger from Timney, little expensive and they give Military discounts.
This trigger is so nice worth the money. Easy installation about 15 minutes look in u-tube to watch the video.
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Shooting @ 1” dots @ 50 yards with cci sv. Just bought this rpr 22lr not too long ago, and all I did was torque the action screws to 30 in lbs and turned the trigger down. Trigger sucks by the way. Any recommendations for a superior trigger?

I actually like my RPRR trigger that I've get set down to 12-14 oz pull. Works great for me. But, I also have a Timney trigger, which was given to me to beta test. The Timney trigger is geat and for me, it's a little improvement over my factory trigger and I also have it set at 12 oz. So, I'd recommend the Timney since your factory trigger just isn't satisfactory to you.
 
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I replaced the trigger spring with one from a pen. It’s very light and hasn’t failed. The cost was free. I took aluminum tape and covered the whole action where it touches the chassis and trimmed with a razor blade. The action screws are set to 45 pounds. I took this rifle out to 400 yards using eley match ammo on Monday. I was shooting clays at 300 with great accuracy but was only dancing around clays at 400.
 
Still no one with a report on the Walther Lothar barrel for the RPRR? I am going to replace my barrel and I am thinking of trying the Walther..

Anyone?
 
Man there sure are some super nice rim fires on here.

Here's the most worthy thing I have to post here. Very light, very accurate, very quiet. :)

Ruger 10/22 receiver and bolt
Kidd 16.5" Ultralight barrel (shown with AAC Element II)
Kidd complete FCG
Kidd bolt handle kit
Magpul x-22 (milled insert/freefloated)
Burris 2-7x

Shoots pretty consistent .5 moa at 50yds with CCI SV,
 
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Well I guess I can join here. I have just picked up a ruger and am struggling with it. First off all I want to say my kids like it a lot. While I'm still on the fence. I have played with federal gold metal, eley eps match and rifle, wolf mt, rws subsonic. All shooting at 50yds with a atlas 5h and rear bag. I have a 5-25 ATACR in a spuhr mount. First I tried the RWS subsonic because my cooper likes it. It shot at >3" so I watched a couple YouTube videos that talked about using foil to shim some of the slop out of it. So after I used some foil tape on the barrel block and each side of the front screw it went to 2" with the same RWS subsonic. So it must do something.

I had a few other boxes of ammo to try some with only a few rounds left so I didn't shoot the same number of groups with all of them.

The Eley and Wolf MT all shot around or just over 1/2" the federal shot almost as bad as the RWS.

I'm going to play with some tension tuning so see if it tightens up at all. If not it'll be good enough for the boys at 1/2" at 50yds.

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What I have found with 2 different RPR 22lr rifles is that they take a long time to "shoot in". Mine starting showing signs at around the 500 round mark, and really came in some where around 1,000 - 1,500 rounds through it. Now shoots very well with CCI SV and many of the higher priced loads. You can see some of my groups in previous posts.

My sons rifle followed very close to the same round counts as mine, and is now shooting just as well.

Just a shame that they take so many rounds to group well.

I played with action screw torque some with mine after reading about someone else having done so. I found 40 in lbs to be best with mine and so put that on my sons from the start.

Another thing I did was smooth up the bottom of the bolt so it does not scrape the bullet when the bolt rides over the next round in the magazine. Mine being an earlier unit than my sons, was square and had a burr on that part that rides over the next round in the mag, so I gave it a slight radius and polished the full length. My sons being a newer unit has that area chamfered from the factory (as I see all the newer ones do). I still polished his as well.

I adjusted the triggers on both to minimum, without removing the trigger spring, gives 1 lb 12 oz pull.

The only other thing I did was use 10 round BX mags, and relieved the spring tension 2 notches on the nut. I kept operating the bolt (just foward and back without camming bolt handle down) until the rounds fed from the mag without hanging up on the breech face or marring the bullet. I think there is too much mag pressure forcing the rounds to go too high, deforming the bullet on the top of the breech face (hitting top of chamber). They now feed just perfectly without any marring of the bullet, fast or slow.

As far as the 15 round mags go, I had to shim mine to center it up in the mag well, which also snugged it up so as to not wiggle around so much. Then I had to file the steel lip insert down a bit where it meets the polymer radius in the rear to match the radius of the polymer. The bullets, and the bolt, were impacting the steel insert there. Even did this before shimming.

We each now have an RPR 22 lr that shoots very well! Both have been used in NRL 22 successfully in the base class without issue.
 
I just ordered a RPR in .17 HMR. Anyone have a comparison with one in .22? looking forward to it an applying the tips learned here.
 
I am quite satisfied with my RPR now but I was rather disappointed with it as it came out of the box. I am happy that Ruger saw fit to bring this rifle on the market but the product is rather half-assed at best when delivered. Mine didn't have some of the problems that I've seen listed but it had enough as it was. It took some serious tinkering but I have it where it will deliver slightly less than 1/2" groups at 50 yards with CCI-SV. That's providing the wind isn't blowing, primidone is doing it's job on my essential tremors, and the ammo doesn't have a flyer in that particular group. I have shot it very little at 100 yards but I managed a few less than 1" groups with the same conditions as listed above. Also I have shot some RWS Target Rifle in it and managed a few groups of less than .4" at 50 yards.

A friend that practices every day and is a excellent shot shot a 100 yard group with it that was a tiny bit less than .9". I'm going to keep the gun.
 
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I just ordered a RPR in .17 HMR. Anyone have a comparison with one in .22? looking forward to it an applying the tips learned here.
1dbvet has one and has made many post of his targets here. I think he must be pretty satisfied with it because he gets bored shooting it at 100 yards.

I'm not a big fan of the .17hmr. I have a Savage BVSS in .17hmr that I shot quite a bit years ago, and have lately started shooting it again. I don't remember getting as many split necks back then as I do now, (like 1 in 5 split necks). Has the quality of manufacturing the ammo fallen off from years ago?
 
A buddy has and RPR 22 that is 2 MOA on a good day … He sent it back to Ruger and discussed the problem with them at length.

Ruger stated clearly they have no accuracy guarantee and promptly returned the rifle un-fired.

You get what you get.

So the moral of the story is you roll the dice and hope for a good one, or have a few bucks ready to replace the barrel if you crap out.
 
Is there a preferred testing regimine? Clean barrel between different brands/models? Issues with barrel temp on the back end of a testing session, etc?

Over the years I have done a lot of shooting and experimenting and from my personal results I have found no methods that are consistent. The results you get from a particular method whether it be cleaning or shooting regimen one day, may not give the same or similar results another day. Having said this I would suggest to just simply shoot your rifle for groups without cleaning or anything else. When I test rimfire ammo/gun combo I shoot a full box of 50 rounds at one setting. I shoot ten 5-shot groups on one target/plate. By doing this I can see how the ammo/gun combination performs based on ten groups, not just two or three, my minimum is five 5-shot groups if I'm short on ammo. I don't clean between ammo brands, I go straight from one brand to another. However, I will say that if I'm shooting more than one type from the same MFG, I'll shoot those back to back before switching to another MFG. For example, if I'm shooting Eley Match, Tenex and Club, I'll shoot those back to back before going to Lapua, SK or anything else.

In the end, whatever you do, have confidence in your method and do it consistently. Here is an example, I shoot the same paper plates with the same size bullseye and don't deviate from that. This way I can accurately and quickly compare results over time and between different guns.

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Well after a few hundred rounds down range. It might be starting to come around. Starting to get a few smaller groups here and there but still averaging around 1/2" at 50yds. I did try a different lot number of Wolf MT and it shot horrible.

I tried to play with torquing the action screws adjusting from 20-45 in/pounds in 5lb increments.

The bottom right target has a flier that was the first round after assembly. The rest are 5 round groups.

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I re-bedded My RPR a week ago. I had previously done the foil bedding, in my case using the tin foil from a small pie tin. Perhaps over time the bedding had become compressed, as the magazine block was loose again when I took the action out. This time I bedded it with the tin from a pop can, which is just a tad thicker, and everything was firmly in place. I also bedded what I'm going to call the "recoil lugs." Cut into each side of the barrel, near it's end, are two "U" shaped mortices. When the barrel is installed back into the action, these mortices fit into two plastic lugs molded into the sides of the action. The are probably there so the barrel is properly indexed when placed back into the action. I measured the size of the mortices and lugs that fit into them and there was a sizable gap. I cut two thin shims of aluminum to take up some of this gap, and using a couple of drops of superglue, glued the shims over the top and side of the shims. When I put the action back into the stock, I could feel kind of a "pop" when it went into place, so now I feel everything is more secured into place.

I took it out to the range and the first 5 rounds all landed into a 1/4'' square at 50 yards. But my next few groups opened up again; I'd get three or four rounds in a tight group with the all to often flyer, and then a tight group again. The more I shot, the more the groups opened. I was shooting SK rifle match of a bipod and rear bag from a bench. The temps were in the low 90's, and sunny. While I and the action was in the shade, about 1/2 the barrel was in the sun. When I reloaded I would place a towel over the scope and barrel to keep the sun off of them. The guy next to me had a digital inferred thermometer and I had him read the temps on the action (88 degrees), and then the end of the barrel, the part out in the sun, (118 degrees). I stopped shooting and went home.

Last week I went to the range again. The temps were in the 70's and overcast. I shot SK pistol match at 50 yards and again got pretty respectful groups, the occasional 1/4," and 3/4" groups, with the more usual 1/2." Was still getting the flyers. Once I felt the cleaned barrel was getting settled in, I began adjusting the action screws. At 30 inch pounds the groups were two inches high and as much as two inches in diameter. I found that the lighter I torqued the screws, the tighter my groups were. I've got my action screws set under 18 inch pounds now. I use Butler Creek "hot Lips" 25 round magazines, and noticed that I had a few problems with loading and ejection when I had higher torque values. Lowering those values and the bolt cycles a lot smoother with no problems.

My rifle is basically stock, and I'm trying to decide if I should buy a Shaw barrel. What I have noticed, but can't prove, is that the factory barrel has a "Sporting" chamber, which is large enough so the rifle will shoot anything .22LR. But accuracy suffers because of this. I get my best groups when I have the dreaded "carbon ring" in the chamber, as I think this helps keep the bullet aligned in the chamber. There's a sweet spot in the size of the carbon ring; too little and the base of the bullet isn't supported, too much and it scrapes the side of the bullet, and it's no longer aligned square to the bore. A match barrel with it's tighter chamber and engraving the bullet into the rifling will align the bullet. In this case the build up of a carbon ring isn't wanted at all.

I've also noticed that ambient temperatures seem to effect accuracy. I have a harder time getting good groups when the temps get into the 80's or higher. Perhaps the higher environmental temperatures are outside of my personal comfort level. I shoot a 25 round mag, 5 shoots per target, and probably too fast, so I think chamber temperatures have some effect. I've noticed that during a long string of shots, if I chamber a round and wait for the wind to calm, that shot is normally a flyer. I now leave the chamber open until I'm ready to shoot, and I set a cadence to when I fire.

I've had the rifle for about two years. From it's serial number, it was built in the first month of production. I've got over 8,000 rounds though it. Despite all of the things I've had to do to it in an effort to improve it, I've enjoyed it immensely. But then, I like doing things like that. For the person who doesn't have the patience to work on it, it may not be the rifle for them.

This has just been some ramblings with my experience with the RPR while I'm avoiding doing yard work.
This has to be a joke. Who in their right mind would post. This long of a response about a gun that sux. If you buy a Ruger You get hat you bought.
 
Ruger and hitting a target do not belong in the same post
Dude, why are such a dick? If you hate Ruger as much as you say you do, then why are you constantly trolling this thread along with other Ruger threads? No life, nothing better to do, or just a mindless internet twit that tries to bash on something that others like just to make yourself feel better?
 
Dude, why are such a dick? If you hate Ruger as much as you say you do, then why are you constantly trolling this thread along with other Ruger threads? No life, nothing better to do, or just a mindless internet twit that tries to bash on something that others like just to make yourself feel better?


I was wondering the same thing.
 
This has to be a joke. Who in their right mind would post. This long of a response about a gun that sux. If you buy a Ruger You get hat you bought.

My post was no joke, and I'm in my right mind.
I will admit the gun, as delivered by Ruger, has it's problems, but with a little patience and experimentation, it can be made better. I realized going in, that it's a $400 rifle, so I didn't expect it to shoot 1/4 inch groups from the factory. I have the patience and ability to improve what Ruger started, and I made my post with the idea that my experience may be of a benefit for a like-minded individual. Obviously, your not one of those individuals, so why did you waste your time in reading it? You have your opinion of the rifle and I have mine; I've enjoyed my experience in improving the rifle, and have learned a lot about .22 rimfire in the process.

And before I can take your criticism of my post seriously, learn how to spell and write a complete sentence.
 
Its been a while since I posted. I've got over 2.5k rounds through this rifle easily. I try to shoot it every weekend. I've said it before, I shoot golf balls at ~220 yds every visit to the range. I freaking LOVE the rifle!

My wife's first time shooting the rifle, 2 golf balls in 10 shots. the whole firing line knew because she let out an ear piercing scream of joy. My boss's first time shooting it... 2 out of 10 shots. His brother, again first time shooting the rifle, 3 out of 10 shots. He gigled like a school girl. This is with my plinking ammo! (CCI mini mag copper plated round nose) Just watching new people try the rifle and even find the golf balls out on the back burm is comical. Every single one of them comes away smiling and saying they are going to buy one! If I concentrate and wait for the wind, I can hit golf ball in one shot. Usually with wind it take 3 shots before I get it.

I've bedded the barrel and action. I've tightened the scews to 35 lbs I believe (Its late I can't remember exactly). Stock trigger on lightest setting. Ruger 10rnd box mag. (I don't even use the PITA sled anymore, bc I'm too lazy to keep reloading.) I'm using a bidpod and monopod. I clean everything but the barrel. Yup! Not cleaning it.

If I'm shotting 50 or 100 yds, I use Eley Edge (1085fps). For 150-200yds I use Eley force (1250) 42gr to fight the wind. Both of those are not jacketed. But for just plinking around and trying to save a little $ that CCI mini mag copper jacketed (1235fps) works overall. I see people complain about CCI SV (1070fps, but more like 970). I didn't have much luck with them either.

I won't do anything more to the rifle. It is fun the way it is now. I continue to find even better ammo. I haven't shot high end like Tenex bc I don't want to spend the $$. My biggest gripe is inconsistant ammo. I can feel it in my shoulder when a round is off before I even look at the target. I'd rather just get better with it. (Cold bore still shoots 6 inches low no matter what I shoot!)

I love this rifle.
 
Its been a while since I posted. I've got over 2.5k rounds through this rifle easily. I try to shoot it every weekend. I've said it before, I shoot golf balls at ~220 yds every visit to the range. I freaking LOVE the rifle!

I continue to find even better ammo. I haven't shot high end like Tenex bc I don't want to spend the $$. My biggest gripe is inconsistant ammo. I can feel it in my shoulder when a round is off before I even look at the target. I'd rather just get better with it. (Cold bore still shoots 6 inches low no matter what I shoot!)

I love this rifle.

If you can feel this "ammo" inconsistency, don't assume its just the ammo. That's called cognitive bias where people seek results based on a preconceived factor to blame for the variance instead of keeping an open mind to other possible causes.

Rim fires are fussy about consistent firing pin strikes for example and that may well be the root cause of the "ammo problem" you are describing.

The question is how best to determine if it is actually the ammo itself or a firing mechanism problem.... or some other thing.

Guys often change or upgrade firing pin springs every xxxx rounds... and be sure the entire firing pin assembly is always clean.

There's probably other possible causes... even the firing pin mechanism design itself.

Sure, try better ammo and compare over a chronograph and find what is most consistent for speed, not groups, and compare your results to other rifles and see if they are comparable.... If not, then you need to accept the results or get more analytical to figure out how to improve your rifle.

Remember group size is more about the barrel... you'll measure that on the target... velocity is more about the ammo and firing mechanism... you'll measure that on the chronograph. Great accuracy especially at extended ranges is when great results from both are combined, but weak in one cannot be compensated for by performing well in the other. Both need to be great.
 
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I, and I'm sure others would like to know just what you did to bed the barrel and action. What was used and where was it applied.
We have a member here (Elfster1234) who did a video on bedding the action and a bit of the barrel.
The link is here-->

In addition to the bedding he did, I would recommend that you bed what I would call the recoil lugs, (Elfster did not do this in his video). I heard about bedding the recoil lugs here from one of our members, my apologies as I cannot recall his name, I seem to remember his user name had something to do with welding, and he deserves the credit. I did this the second time I bedded the action, and I think it had a positive effect with improving the accuracy, above what the bedding of the action did.

On each side of the chassis, towards the rear, approximately on each side where the rear action screw goes into the chassis, there are two post, or ridges molded into the chassis. These ridges correspond with two cutouts on the rear of the barrel, so when the barrel rests in the chassis, these posts fit into the cutouts of the barrel. I'm sure these posts and cutouts are there to aid in placing the barrel in it's proper place in the action, but I thought they may also act as recoil lugs. I measured the width of the post vs the width of the barrel cutouts and found there was a bunch of slop between the two. I cut some thin, narrow shims from a pop can and glued the shims onto the chassis posts to take up some of the slop, which it does. When I did, or re-did the bedding job and re-assembled the rifle, I could feel the barrel kind of pop into the action/recoil lugs, so it was somewhat of a tight fit. The results of all this work was that my groups improved to the point where 1/4" groups at 50 yards was a fairly common event, but it didn't solve the occasional flier that would blow a 1/4" group out to 1/2." I felt that no matter what I did from this point on, I would never get the consistency with the factory barrel that I wanted. Ruger gave us a "sporting" chamber for this rifle; one where it would shoot any type of .22 ammo that you load into it. To get the accuracy and consistency, I went to a Shaw barrel, which has a match chamber and I've very happy with that. I feel that the work I did to the chassis to tighten things up has only helped with the tight groups I'm now seeing with the Shaw barrel. I still get the occasional flier, but the frequency of the fliers has been greatly reduced
 
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I put aluminum foil on the sides of the block also where the groves on each side of the barrel block slide into the chassis.. its in the video. I put foil on the top of the barrel block, sides of the block, and on the front block also (what ever you call that area / in front of the magazine area). It's all in the video :)

We have a member here (Elfster1234) who did a video on bedding the action and a bit of the barrel.
The link is here-->

In addition to the bedding he did, I would recommend that you bed what I would call the recoil lugs, (Elfster did not do this in his video). I heard about bedding the recoil lugs here from one of our members, my apologies as I cannot recall his name, I seem to remember his user name had something to do with welding, and he deserves the credit. I did this the second time I bedded the action, and I think it had a positive effect with improving the accuracy, above what the bedding of the action did.

On each side of the chassis, towards the rear, approximately on each side where the rear action screw goes into the chassis, there are two post, or ridges molded into the chassis. These ridges correspond with two cutouts on the rear of the barrel, so when the barrel rests in the chassis, these posts fit into the cutouts of the barrel. I'm sure these posts and cutouts are there to aid in placing the barrel in it's proper place in the action, but I thought they may also act as recoil lugs. I measured the width of the post vs the width of the barrel cutouts and found there was a bunch of slop between the two. I cut some thin, narrow shims from a pop can and glued the shims onto the chassis posts to take up some of the slop, which it does. When I did, or re-did the bedding job and re-assembled the rifle, I could feel the barrel kind of pop into the action/recoil lugs, so it was somewhat of a tight fit. The results of all this work was that my groups improved to the point where 1/4" groups at 50 yards was a fairly common event, but it didn't solve the occasional flier that would blow a 1/4" group out to 1/2." I felt that no matter what I did from this point on, I would never get the consistency with the factory barrel that I wanted. Ruger gave us a "sporting" chamber for this rifle; one where it would shoot any type of .22 ammo that you load into it. To get the accuracy and consistency, I went to a Shaw barrel, which has a match chamber and I've very happy with that. I feel that the work I did to the chassis to tighten things up has only helped with the tight groups I'm now seeing with the Shaw barrel. I still get the occasional flier, but the frequency of the fliers has been greatly reduced
 
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I put aluminum foil on the sides of the block also where the groves on each side of the barrel block slide into the chassis.. its in the video. I put foil on the top of the barrel block, sides of the block, and on the front block also (what ever you call that area / in front of the magazine area). It's all in the video :)

I think I used your video when I first bedded the action. When I did the re-bed, I did the shimming job on the chassis posts that fit into the cutouts in the barrel in addition. I feel it's well worth the effort.

By the way, I've enjoyed all of your video's on the RPR. It's good to see you post again.
 
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I have viewed those posts/videos. I was asking TheMightyGorilla for his specific bedding procedure, what he did exactly. Thanks to all those that replied.
 
you betcha my friend! that's what im here for is to help :) carry on the knowledge & to protect the 2nd amendment

I think I used your video when I first bedded the action. When I did the re-bed, I did the shimming job on the chassis posts that fit into the cutouts in the barrel in addition. I feel it's well worth the effort.

By the way, I've enjoyed all of your video's on the RPR. It's good to see you post again.
 
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Folks I have one of these coming in .22 WMR and wondered if the cut out in the but stock above where the flush cup insert is is also a spot to loop a sling through ? Im guessing it is, does anyone else use that cut out for this purpose and maybe have a pic of it ?

cheers.
 
I would also like to see what the Walther does

For those of you curious about the BSF barrels.

Here are two pictures of a buddy of mine who put a BSF barrel (which is just a tensioned and reprofiled E.R. Shaw barrel) on his RPRR.

top photo groups I think were with CCi suppressor and the 2nd photo he was comparing CCi suppressor Vs. RWS subsonic hollow points and center X.
The group in the center of the photo I don’t remember what he said why it was big (might have been where he shoots the first few shots from the barrel when its new ammo but I’m not sure)

I know he has been happy with it and somewhere I have more pictures from him and most are around 1/2” 5 shot groups at 50 yards with ammo it likes but he does say it is hold sensitive.
I recommended he get a bipod but he ended up buying a Vudoo instead :LOL:

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My bad. I thought about checking the price before posting, but thought I knew it off the top of my head. I think the sentiment still stands though. Not a lot of people want to be the $300 guinea pig, unfortunately


I have one on order. Sounds like they cut them once the order is placed and they told me 3weeks.
 
I cannot believe this is so hard to find as I have searched high and low on this site and on the Internet. I even downloaded the manual from ruger but could not find the magnum manual. I am Asking for a friend.
Does Ruger say it is fine or not to fire a .22LR in a rifle that is chambered for .22 magnum?
Sorry and thank you.
 
The chambers are different so you should not fire a 22LR through a 22 Mag. On revolvers that can fire both rounds, you swap the cylinder to change between 22LR and 22 Mag.
 
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