Bad bottle of gas? It happens
Maggie’s The Welding and Metalworking Thread
- Thread starter bogeybrown
- Start date
Did you replace the liner? I kinked the liner in my 252 and the gas was intermittent when welding - it was giving me fits until I sent a video to a buddy to make sure I wasnt doing anything crazy. Replaced the liner and ran great.
With such an order, a tapping drill would've been justified
Yeah the whole hose/liner/gun was replaced a few months back (still, with many users, no telling)
I think my boss may just buy a new machine before he puts any more into this old one. Heck the internal water trap in our hypertherm powermax 30 broke for the 2nd time, he went and bought a 45xp. I got the old one, bypassed internal trap & set it up with external regulator/ water trap/ desiccant filter! I go back to work tomorrow night, I'll dig in a little deeper.
Damn... I suggest being really good for the next couple months and asking Santa for a Flexarm for Christmas.
Especially since you're tapping aluminum there, I gotta introduce you to what a simple cordless drill can do, with the correct style tap and proper fluid.
You truly would be surprised at what can be done, when using the proper technique. Then you'll be surprised as to how fast you can get it all done.
You truly would be surprised at what can be done, when using the proper technique. Then you'll be surprised as to how fast you can get it all done.
6061 sucks to tap, hardened 7075 or 2024 tap and machine way better.. also for saltwater 7075 is better I think.
A drill guide block the diameter of the tap shank helps if hand tapped is what's happening or make your own block to keep tap perfectly strait.
You can do it in your sleep then and "tap free " for aluminum is your friend.
Spent years hand tapping critical parts that the machine shop kept breaking taps in. Down to .080 taps, a lot of 2/56 and 4/40.
Are you putting helicoils in those holes? I did those at 2/56 and up.
Btw the hole size in the tap charts for a 4/40 helicoil are one # size too small. The screw will seize up.
Please stop talking about 2-56. You are bringing back bad memories of some parts for orbit we made several years ago.
but now I’m doing m2 and m1. The difference is thread milling and life is so much better. It’s like having a very satisfying mistress, just walking by those taps.
honestly the 6061 wasnt too bad....i bought some brand new TiN 2-flute taps, and it zipped right through it really well, without cutting oil....
i was contemplating putting in helicoils.....but realistically, those threads arent seeing a lot of wear, they are screwed in once, and usually never touched again....with little to no torque.....so the helicoils werent really necessary.
regarding corrosion, if it were to see regular and constant salt water, then ide probably be concerned.....but scuba equipment gets rinsed really well after dives....so it hasnt been a huge concern.
i recommended to the end user that he have them Cerakoted....but really its not necessary so long as they are properly rinsed after dives.
There is a chem process, cromic acid etching (alodine) that stops corrosion.
We used it on aircraft and special project parts. It etches aluminum in about 10 seconds and is then rinsed off. It turns the aluminum yellow / gold and then paint if desired.
Sorry, used to mil spec requirements.
For any machined parts, the 7075-T6 is great to work with and if a salesman tries to sell you 2024-T8 it is gtg but the navy doesn't like it.
Everybody in the shop hated 6061 of any temper. Same for me in ar receivers.
Anyway the parts look good, nice job.
I might put a sealant on the threads while assembling to slow galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals.
We used it on aircraft and special project parts. It etches aluminum in about 10 seconds and is then rinsed off. It turns the aluminum yellow / gold and then paint if desired.
Sorry, used to mil spec requirements.
For any machined parts, the 7075-T6 is great to work with and if a salesman tries to sell you 2024-T8 it is gtg but the navy doesn't like it.
Everybody in the shop hated 6061 of any temper. Same for me in ar receivers.
Anyway the parts look good, nice job.
I might put a sealant on the threads while assembling to slow galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals.
honestly i hadnt thought of Alodine coating.....i think im going to order a jug and give that a try.....ill be sure to post the results.
I'm pretty sure I found the problem, wrong torch set, or a wrong fitting. So I changed tanks, stretched out the lead and started by disassembling the gun, went to the other end and found a missing set screw and the hose partially unscrewed from a fitting, fixed that and checked o-rings. When I put it back together the fitting bottomed out on the wire feed preventing the other end of the fitting, w/o-rings, from seating all the way into the gas block. Can this fitting be modified? Will air-gass have a fitting that would be compatible without buying a whole new torch kit?
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I got some nearly free steel and went to work building another trailer specifically for the garbage and trips to the waste site.
Still in progress, have a few more uprights to do and a tailgate to fab up. Floor and sides will be expanded steel. Tongue will be 2x3 tube. It’s 4x8 with 16” sides, tilt style in case it’s needed.
Wheels and tires were gratis locally, I bought the axle and hubs. Springs and hangers were free from a buddy (just happened to also be yellow). They were a 7 leaf pack! from air compressor trailer that I reduced to 3 leaves. Axle is set 10” rearward from center.
Trailer prices are crazy right now, I have very little in this. Plan to have my local guy blast it when it’s done and get some paint on it.
Still in progress, have a few more uprights to do and a tailgate to fab up. Floor and sides will be expanded steel. Tongue will be 2x3 tube. It’s 4x8 with 16” sides, tilt style in case it’s needed.
Wheels and tires were gratis locally, I bought the axle and hubs. Springs and hangers were free from a buddy (just happened to also be yellow). They were a 7 leaf pack! from air compressor trailer that I reduced to 3 leaves. Axle is set 10” rearward from center.
Trailer prices are crazy right now, I have very little in this. Plan to have my local guy blast it when it’s done and get some paint on it.
So is the power pin contacting the drive rollers prior to being fully seated? Who is the manufacturer of the mig gun and need to check if the power pin is compatible with the 255XT.
I didn't get to witness the un-boxing, guessing Radnor. I remedied the problem with O-rings. It hadn't welded this good since the torch had been replaced!
Needed a new end table and some practice tig welding thin material.
Looks good. I have been teaching myself tig. I have trouble with pace and heat but I'm getting better. Like I told my son on our last project....only way to get good is doing it. So different than firing up the mig gun but so much nicer on thin stuff.
We have a nice machine at work, I've tried a couple of times to use it. When I ask for help understanding settings, everyone would rather just weld it for me. I need practice on technique, usually end up sticking the tungsten. That's a really nice table! Everything I make the ole lady excitedly exclaims "you could sell that"! Me; then I wouldn't have it...
Self taught on TIG and spend a hour or so most evenings and on weekends practicing on different joints and materials. Most difficult part for me was getting the hang of feeding filler rod. Lots of good videos on youtube by Jody with Welding Tips and Tricks and their new forum Welderskills has excellent information. Its not magic just takes practice and figuring what settings work best for that particular welder. One thing is for sure when learning is that you get lots of practice grinding tungsten.
So I did have to repair something tonight and used the welder as was. Not ideal, tungsten was not sharp, & I think, not hot enough. But yeah, I agree about practice for any process, even plasma cutting.Self taught on TIG and spend a hour or so most evenings and on weekends practicing on different joints and materials. Most difficult part for me was getting the hang of feeding filler rod. Lots of good videos on youtube by Jody with Welding Tips and Tricks and their new forum Welderskills has excellent information. Its not magic just takes practice and figuring what settings work best for that particular welder. One thing is for sure when learning is that you get lots of practice grinding tungsten.
Where are you guys getting scrap?
I’m the most amateur of amateurs with a weld pro 200 tig and a 1946 South Bend 9” model b.
I want to practice so I can get good enough to do small jobs for myself and friends but the price of new steel makes my eyes bleed. I priced some 1/2” wall 4x4 square tube to make a less wobbly lathe stand and it was astronomical.
There are a ton of scrap yards in my area but somehow I doubt they’d be ok letting me wonder around with a sawzall and a wheelbarrow. Is s as scrap tge type of deal where you just have to know a guy?
I’m the most amateur of amateurs with a weld pro 200 tig and a 1946 South Bend 9” model b.
I want to practice so I can get good enough to do small jobs for myself and friends but the price of new steel makes my eyes bleed. I priced some 1/2” wall 4x4 square tube to make a less wobbly lathe stand and it was astronomical.
There are a ton of scrap yards in my area but somehow I doubt they’d be ok letting me wonder around with a sawzall and a wheelbarrow. Is s as scrap tge type of deal where you just have to know a guy?
Local scrap yard used to let folks buy steel but I think it's closed now. You never know unless you ask.
Steel is is ridiculous now. I've bought small quantities at a local shop for 30yrs now and they always treated me right. But now unless they have a drop that is close to what I need I just don't buy. Needed 12' of 4" square 1/4 wall a few months ago and they would only sell full 20' stick - $400+ tax! Others that know owner/shop say he's way overpriced now so gonna start looking for another shop.
Steel is is ridiculous now. I've bought small quantities at a local shop for 30yrs now and they always treated me right. But now unless they have a drop that is close to what I need I just don't buy. Needed 12' of 4" square 1/4 wall a few months ago and they would only sell full 20' stick - $400+ tax! Others that know owner/shop say he's way overpriced now so gonna start looking for another shop.
1) ....wandering with a sawzall and a wheel barrow is pretty much how scrap yards operate.....
2) find a local sheet metal/machine shop and ask if they have any drops....they might charge you something.....but most can be bought with a case of beer.
Any scrap yard is in the business of buying and selling. If I need something special, and find it at a scrap yard, I've never been denied. My job throws away a crazy amount of stuff! Most of the time I get what ever I want; tube, angle, sheet, plate, and literally tons of 5/8x27" spool bolts. I always peep trash piles when I'm driving for bed frames and such. And I agree Craigslist or fb marketplace is a viable source, I've answered adds asking for free scrap and given it away to people such as yourself.
Finally got around to rebuilding my Bridgeport J head. Probably first time it's been gone through since new. Didn't know they were supposed to be this quiet! Problem now is rest of machine looks like crap but I'm Bridgeported out for a while.
Anyone know what this is? Picked up at swap meet today in box full of other stuff. Best I can come up with is some type of tubing goes in and it rolls a single indent into it. Maybe for crimping ferrules on rubber hose or similar? But there are other, simpler tools for that.
In the second picture it look like there was a label or badge under the handle. Can you make out anything in that area???
Can't really read the patent number. It was made by Royal Brass who are still around.
RB Royal Company History | Learn About Our History
RB Royal's company history - from brass production in our founder's basement to providing custom fluid transfer solutions in applications around the world!
www.rbroyal.com Looks like something for copper tubing.
First thought was flaring tool but rollers looks like it would only form an indent.
Where it looks like label was is just that, where a label was. Whole thing is galvanized so that area is just a little brighter.
Patent Pend # is 469132.
Also found Royal Brass in Fon du Lac in google search. If I can't figure out what it's for I'll try to get in touch with them.
Just curious.
Where it looks like label was is just that, where a label was. Whole thing is galvanized so that area is just a little brighter.
Patent Pend # is 469132.
Also found Royal Brass in Fon du Lac in google search. If I can't figure out what it's for I'll try to get in touch with them.
Just curious.
It’s a knurling tool of some kind. Exact use… looking now….
Got it. It’s a hand knurling tool for doing knurling without a lathe. You kind of use it like a pipe cutter.
Sirhr
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Probably does somethimg like this, think sprinkler pipe connections...
Hand crank knurling tool was also an early guess and it might do that but Royal Brass is still in business and does a lot of tubing stuff. May stick something soft in it and see how it does but it looks like the two top rollers will take out the knurling in the middle. An old roll groover also seems plausible and more along the lines of what I was thinking.
Something else that followed me home from the swap meet just to clean up and hang on a wall.
Something else that followed me home from the swap meet just to clean up and hang on a wall.
It’s very possible that the knurling was for pipe fitting. You might want to put a knurl on something and then use that as a way to get solder into a joint.
Go to the local steel supplier and ask to buy their drops. It's their short pieces that aren't good for anything but scrap. Usually a little over scrap price and clean material
The "knurled" wheel is simply the 'driving wheel' is it not? As in, the knurling is there to drive the material being worked.
It is....but if you are turning softer material, you are going to end up with that knurl pattern being transfered, whether you want it to or not....
If the intent was to just put a groove, you could do that with 3 forming wheels and make it hand turned, so I suspect that knurl pattern is intentional.
....I could be wrong though....
Blow bars?
It will knurl but other rollers take a strip out of center. On copper tube it rolls a nice indent for whatever reason.
It looks like it does a great job. What that job is, I don't know.....
No, there is a 1” block built in between that level and where the spring rides
