Tikka T1X

[jeremydc]

Still

I've stopped doing 6x5's because it's just not that relevant anymore. The Tikka shoots nearly everything +/- 1/2 an inch. I don't know if you did this month's CoF - https://nrl22.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/NRL22_OCT_COF_SM.pdf

CCI SV would have hit almost everything except -
1/4" at 35 yards, I would give CCI SV a 75% chance to hit all shots, which I ended up missing 1 of my shots on.

On the paper target where you're scoring by bullseye is 1/2", Of the 6 shots (60pts) that were in prone and not on a unstable barrel, I scored 52 of 60 points. I gave up hitting the bullseye where I should've and scored on the 8 ring a few times. My group on paper was about 2/3", his was a touching clover, easily showing 1/4" at 50 yards. If I had shot my Eley Tenex, I know for certain that I'd grouped a whole lot better than CCI SV. Now that was only an 8 point difference. Oh sorry, his = Vudoo in MPA shooting Center-X.

I ended up losing that match by 30 points, ~ 3 shots. So yeh it could make a difference getting back my 1 miss on the 1/4" target at 35 yards, and maybe making up 8 points on the paper target. But if I'm just doing this for fun, does that warrant a 4x cost from CCI SV?

I guess the same can be said, does the MPA $1000 chassis, provide a 2x value over the KRG Bravo? I don't think so. But there were some stages where I think having an arca barricade stop probably could've given me maybe 2 hits that I missed. I'm not playing for $ so is 2-3 hits per comp worth that $600 investment? Or paying 2x the ammo, worth the 18 points I lost?

I ended up with an overall score of 356 / 500. ~7 hits per 10 shot stage. Out of the 15 misses I had, I'd attribute 2 to ammo, and 2 to maybe having a better rifle with some wonky positional stuff, and the rest were just hard / fundamentals.

--

Though, now that I've said all this stuff... I did just buy a new $325 barrel to eek out what realistically might be 20 more points... was that worth almost the cost of a new rifle? Probably not...

Still far in the Tikka thread but this is some answer I was looking for in regards to CCI SV. I shoot CCI SV and it shoots pretty dang good to me. I can shoot 1/4” at 100yds no problem. Going closer to like 30yds it gets a little inconsistent.

Just curious with your results, did you weigh and lot test your rounds or do you just shoot whatever box?

I’m just shooting whatever box right now and not sure if it’s just me or if I got a good lot. The same lot doesn’t seem good on my CZ though

 

[littlepod]

Still

Still far in the Tikka thread but this is some answer I was looking for in regards to CCI SV. I shoot CCI SV and it shoots pretty dang good to me. I can shoot 1/4” at 100yds no problem. Going closer to like 30yds it gets a little inconsistent.

Just curious with your results, did you weigh and lot test your rounds or do you just shoot whatever box?

I’m just shooting whatever box right now and not sure if it’s just me or if I got a good lot. The same lot doesn’t seem good on my CZ though

Oh wow 2 year old post, interesting dig up.

I haven't shot CCI SV in a very very long time. It's inconsistent meaning one batch is good and one batch isn't good. They all seem to shoot a bit differently from batch to batch and I got tired of having to re-dope and rechrono every time. I ended up just saving up my money, and getting a case of SK Standard+ that shot consistently for all 5000 rounds and saved me a ton of time and wasted ammo from constantly re-doping.

The next year I upped my game a little and sent my stuff over to Lapua and bought 2 cases of Center-X.. still shooting that. You kind of don't shoot as much when you're confident in what your gun/ammo days. No more 6x5's, no more re-doping. Literally all I do is my rimfire matches every month and everything outside of that can be dry fire.

 

[SwedishMoose]

Picked up a T1x at the beginning of Covid to compensate for ammo prices, and to get the wife into bolt actions. We've had a ton of fun with it, and the T1x is a laser beam. I got the 16" version and now a dead air mask sits on it.

 

[Halen]

It's crazy how the T1x are out of stock everywhere, spent months searching for one. Earlier today I finally found a T1x used and had to pay a bit more than I wanted, but didn't want to keep waiting to score one.

My goal is to start hitting shooting competitions next year which I've never done and can't wait. I've never built up a gun to compete and would appreciate any suggestions on how best to start pulling the rig together. My budget for the build is between $1,500 - $2,000 which I figure should build a solid comp gun.

Thank you in advance for help in getting me started.

 

[gtr2010]

It's crazy how the T1x are out of stock everywhere, spent months searching for one. Earlier today I finally found a T1x used and had to pay a bit more than I wanted, but didn't want to keep waiting to score one.

My goal is to start hitting shooting competitions next year which I've never done and can't wait. I've never built up a gun to compete and would appreciate any suggestions on how best to start pulling the rig together. My budget for the build is between $1,500 - $2,000 which I figure should build a solid comp gun.

Thank you in advance for help in getting me started.

I have no experience in competition but in the same boat as you, others' opinions with actual experience are more valuable than mine, but for what it's worth, here's what I went with to get started in base class, do some hunting, and match up with a 6.5 Creedmoor T3X to practice at 20c a round instead of 1.50 a round.

DIP 25 MOA Scope Rail
American Rifle Company Rings X-Low 30mm
Bushnell 6x24 Match Pro Scope
Tikka Vertical Grip
Tikka T3X Recoil Pad
Bore Tech Cleaning Rode Guide T1X
Bore Tech Proof-Positive Jag 22 RF
Bore Tech Proof-positive Bore Stix 22 RF
Wiebad Tac Pad
Atlas BT46-NC Bipod
Really Right Stuff Bipod Adapter (Atlas Bipod to Picatinny or Arca Rail)
Really Right Stuff 240mm Arca Rail

Edit: Forgot a few things
WeatherFlow WeatherMeter - Ballistic one has been OOS for months. I felt this was essential because I need something that tells me what X mph wind is like in real time so I can learn what it feels like and make calls. Anything else is just guessing and a waste of time.
Strelok Pro Ballistic app (works with the WeatherMeter)
Range Finder
Torque Screwdriver - for rail, scope rings, setting action screws
YoDave Trigger Spring - really makes the trigger put a smile on your face

 

[Halen]

I have no experience in competition but in the same boat as you, others' opinions with actual experience are more valuable than mine, but for what it's worth, here's what I went with to get started in base class, do some hunting, and match up with a 6.5 Creedmoor T3X to practice at 20c a round instead of 1.50 a round.

DIP 25 MOA Scope Rail
American Rifle Company Rings X-Low 30mm
Bushnell 6x24 Match Pro Scope
Tikka Vertical Grip
Tikka T3X Recoil Pad
Bore Tech Cleaning Rode Guide T1X
Bore Tech Proof-Positive Jag 22 RF
Bore Tech Proof-positive Bore Stix 22 RF
Wiebad Tac Pad
Atlas BT46-NC Bipod
Really Right Stuff Bipod Adapter (Atlas Bipod to Picatinny or Arca Rail)
Really Right Stuff 240mm Arca Rail

Thank you very much for taking the time to put this list together with links, it's incredibly helpful. I am also looking to do the same with a T3X 6.5 Creedmore to be a match pair as well.

I've actually read all the posts/pages in this thread working on gleaning additional insight into what will work for me. The biggest decision I'm looking to make is the glass. Since this is a comp rifle PRS/NRL I'd like to figure out what works best for these situations, there is so many choices and the parallax situation is one I'm working on understanding further.

 

[IDbound]

Any T1X .17HMR owners out there? I am right minded and am tired of waiting on the .22 version to materialize. I was wondering what your thoughts were. Ammo is more expensive but good .22 ammo isn't cheap anymore either.

 

[6.5SH]

I have no experience in competition but in the same boat as you, others' opinions with actual experience are more valuable than mine, but for what it's worth, here's what I went with to get started in base class, do some hunting, and match up with a 6.5 Creedmoor T3X to practice at 20c a round instead of 1.50 a round.

DIP 25 MOA Scope Rail
American Rifle Company Rings X-Low 30mm
Bushnell 6x24 Match Pro Scope
Tikka Vertical Grip
Tikka T3X Recoil Pad
Bore Tech Cleaning Rode Guide T1X
Bore Tech Proof-Positive Jag 22 RF
Bore Tech Proof-positive Bore Stix 22 RF
Wiebad Tac Pad
Atlas BT46-NC Bipod
Really Right Stuff Bipod Adapter (Atlas Bipod to Picatinny or Arca Rail)
Really Right Stuff 240mm Arca Rail

Good list, but I'd also add this if going to use the factory stock for a while:

https://victorcompanyusa.com/buy-1/ols/products/titan-universal-cheekrest

 

[Tiger_Shilone]

Any T1X .17HMR owners out there? I am right minded and am tired of waiting on the .22 version to materialize. I was wondering what your thoughts were. Ammo is more expensive but good .22 ammo isn't cheap anymore either.

Depends on what you want to do. Just about every 22 steel match will not allow .17 HMR as it will damage the targets. I have also seen .17hmr very hard to get in normal times, much less now. For small game hunting or plinking it is great. Since most of my shooting is match driven, I buy what I can use in competition.

 

[sniperstudent]

IDbound, I have T1X in 22 and 17 and you are right about the ammo. To get the 22 to shoot as well as the 17 especially at 100yds and beyond the ammo cost is pretty much the same. Also with the 17 there is no guess work on shot placement to 150 yds pretty much point and shoot. Mostly depends on what you want to do with said rifle. Good luck.

 

[Bayou1535]

I have a Tikka in 17hmr and its a joy. I put it a bravo and its been great. The trigger is great and easily adjustable and the bolt is smooth, I have several tikkas so I'm biased but they are nice. Like said above, you won't be able to use them in any 22lr matches and I have not been able to find the gamepoints that it shoots well for about 6 months. I would wait and get the caliber you want or get both.

 

[IDbound]

I won’t be shooting matches so that is not the issue. I am using a CZ452 (I believe) as my trainer that shoots very good so if a T1x in .22 doesn’t materialize I still have something to shoot many rounds of stockpiled .22 shells. Without any .17 on hand I may have just answered my own question.

 

[Coopsdaddy]

Would the 16 inch 22 make a decent squirrel gun or mainly target?

 

[godofthunder]

Would the 16 inch 22 make a decent squirrel gun or mainly target?

Mine makes a hell of a squirrel gun.

 

[ma smith]

T1x form factor seamlessly transitions from field to target use.

Its scandanavian...it just works...

Just my .02$

 

[sniperstudent]

Anyone having luck with Eley ammo?

 

[godofthunder]

Anyone having luck with Eley ammo?

I've only tried the Eley Target, but it didn't shoot that great. SK Std + shot quite a bit better for me.

 

[Ndbowhunter]

Its scandanavian...it just works...

Just my .02$

finns ain't scandinavians

but they do make good rifles

 

[LeftyJason]

T1x form factor seamlessly transitions from field to target use.

Its scandanavian...it just works...

Just my .02$

finns ain't scandinavians

but they do make good rifles

Maybe not Scandinavian but definitely Nordic.

 

[6.5SH]

Maybe not Scandinavian but definitely Nordic.

And yet has add on factory accessories much like Ikea LoL

 

[ma smith]

finns ain't scandinavians

So this is a unique story....The father of (in English) 'Scandinavian' Modern design is ... in fact a famous Finnlander !

Alvar Aalto - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

Even stranger, 'Scandinavia' is apparently now a considered an
English word, with its own local quirks of English usage...

Scandinavia - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

In any event, here used as shorthand for good, thoughtful, design

No offense to anyone.

Sako and tikka are good rifles...

Carry on...!

 

[LeftyJason]

@ma smith i knew what you meant. It's all up in the same region and they don't make it easier. I personally don't have any ties up there. Agreed as a compliment for good design that works. Wasn't attacking you in any way. Just informing both sides of something I didn't know was a thing before I learned it. Carry on.

 

[Ndbowhunter]

back on topic.. i'd like to get more weight out the front to mimic the bigger brother gun. anyone know a muzzle device that's significantly heavy. seems like a rebarrel is pretty pointless considering what it does already. or maybe a weighted arca rail?

 

[Buckhead]

back on topic.. i'd like to get more weight out the front to mimic the bigger brother gun. anyone know a muzzle device that's significantly heavy. seems like a rebarrel is pretty pointless considering what it does already. or maybe a weighted arca rail?

Some guys are putting epoxy and lead pellets in the forend or stick-on wheel weights.

 

[Ndbowhunter]

should note this is in a krg bravo

 

[Buckhead]

should note this is in a krg bravo

Aha. There are a couple slots at the front of the forend for hanging some m-lock weights.

 

[sniperstudent]

I have heard that Tikka now sells mags for the 22lr that have the same shorter profile as the 17hmr mag. Can anyone confirm or deny this? Thanks.

 

[MilsurpMonkey]

I have heard that Tikka now sells mags for the 22lr that have the same shorter profile as the 17hmr mag. Can anyone confirm or deny this? Thanks.

I’ve seen a couple without the shark fin now. The profile on the mag of the .17 has been excellent in the field. Love it. If I didn’t already have a tack driving 10/22, I’d certainly be adding the T1x in .22 to the lineup.

 

[Buckhead]

I’ve seen a couple without the shark fin now. The profile on the mag of the .17 has been excellent in the field. Love it. If I didn’t already have a tack driving 10/22, I’d certainly be adding the T1x in .22 to the lineup.

If you get the mag extensions from MKM then you can have a nice flat bottom on the mag and run 12 or 14 rounds depending on how much you want to stretch the spring. I have 2 on the way. Can't wait to try them out.

 

[ma smith]

Mags are great the way they are, honestly. The size an weight and way the do mag changes is all great. They fit on pockets well, ingress and egress pockets well, they instinctively always find 'right side up' without looking at them, etc...

If tilks alters them, i hope they dont loose any of that. The mag will occasionally stove pipe a round so they arent beyon reproach, but i stopped worrying about the looks of t1 mags after using them in comps and getting comfortable with the handling.

 

[6.5SH]

Mags are great the way they are, honestly. The size an weight and way the do mag changes is all great. They fit on pockets well, ingress and egress pockets well, they instinctively always find 'right side up' without looking at them, etc...

If tilks alters them, i hope they dont loose any of that. The mag will occasionally stove pipe a round so they arent beyon reproach, but i stopped worrying about the looks of t1 mags after using them in comps and getting comfortable with the handling.

I had the weird ass live round stove pipe happen today at a match.

I also have one mag that it is a giant pain in the ass to get the tenth round in. That one is getting a MKM 12 round extender for the 12 round stages, so two birds with one stone there.

 

[Emerson0311]

I had the weird ass live round stove pipe happen today at a match.

I also have one mag that it is a giant pain in the ass to get the tenth round in. That one is getting a MKM 12 round extender for the 12 round stages, so two birds with one stone there.

I find if I push the bolt handle up while closing it the stovepipe happens more often. Not sure why. I have learned to not manipulate the bolt that way.

 

[Buckhead]

I find if I push the bolt handle up while closing it the stovepipe happens more often. Not sure why. I have learned to not manipulate the bolt that way.

I used to have a lot of stove pipes at first. 1 or 2 every magazine. Now I can't remember the last time I had one - it has been months. Probably 2,000 rounds.

Here are some of the things that have worked for me:

Did the extractor wire "Kissofdeath" bend. Playing with that I found it didn't eject as well with a large bend so I straightened the wire more so it has a very small bend. It just clears the loaded round and no more. Also I find that the ejector wire works best with no oil or bullet lube on it, so I clean it with rubbing alcohol. The surface of the wire and the small notch on the side of the bolt that it slides on/in.

When it is cool out, bullet lube and debris can build up on the bolt face and sometimes under the main ejector. I carry a toothbrush in my tool kit and give it a good brushing from time to time. If its really built up I will work it over with a small brass brush.

Tried the mag well in various positions. It is able to move forward or back a small amount. I found that all the way back was the best position in my rifle. I noticed that the mag well was able to move side it side a bit as well so taped the sides and front for a snug fit.

I take the mags apart every month or so and clean them out. A lot of debris gets down inside there and sometimes they won't feed smoothly. I will clean them out and lube them up inside with silicone lubricant on a Q-tip so the follower slides nice and smooth. Same thing inside the mag well.
Plastic parts get coated with silicone lube and metal parts get oil.

 

[Sebastianer]

SO i need some of yours opinion, im going to order a T1X in 17hmr but what barrel lenght sould i take ? is there any benefit to the 20" over the 16" ?

 

[sniperstudent]

You may give up a little velocity with the 16" barrel. Google bullberry testing, I think is what it was called seems like I remember 19"-20" being optimal but dont know how much you will loose. I think it was more than I was willing to give up so I bought the 20" version.

 

[ma smith]

Supressor? maybe 16", otherwise the 20" is nicely balanced.

 

[Appalachian]

Do T1X’s have threaded barrels? asking for a friend, really.

 

[6.5SH]

Do T1X’s have threaded barrels? asking for a friend, really.

Yes

 

[308ftWIN]

Any news on when these will be more available again? Just looking for the plain Jane 16". Is everyone else in the country doing the same?

 

[godofthunder]

Any news on when these will be more available again? Just looking for the plain Jane 16". Is everyone else in the country doing the same?

I would just sign up for in stock notifications at EuroOptic and if you're local to a Scheels see if they'll get you on a list to call you when they get some in.

If you're really wanting one, post a WTB ad here on SH. I did that and had one bought in a couple days.

 

[Sebastianer]

Supressor? maybe 16", otherwise the 20" is nicely balanced.

yes i will use supressor on ether but just wanted to know if i go with 16" i will miss out on something or not. i mean 16" will be a alot easier in the woods.

 

[godofthunder]

yes i will use supressor on ether but just wanted to know if i go with 16" i will miss out on something or not. i mean 16" will be a alot easier in the woods.

I have no issue making hits on steel at 300 with my 16", haven't really pushed it past that. Can't imagine I'm missing out on anything vs the 20".

 

[ma smith]

If using a supressor in the woods, i would trade the compact form fo whatever is lost at ELR. Its a .22 and most work in gonna be under 200, heck 300 even in matches.

We shoot to 400 routinely but the points scored there is low in proportion to total match points.

Also, consider a vudoo if you really need something extra 350-400... T1x is pretty sorted up tp 330 then is a lot of witchcraft...

 

[Coopsdaddy]

Anyone heard when production with tikka will pick up?

 

[SwedishMoose]

I've got a 16" and it honestly feels too short, even with a silencer. I'd recommend 20".

 

[Ndbowhunter]

Just finished up this T1X. Set up for shooting NRL 22 matches. Currently weighs in at 15.5lbs. With SK Rifle Match it does about MOA or a little better at 100 with much of the dispersion vertical. I have some Midas + on the way that will hopefully arrive before a match next weekend that should clean up that group a little.

View attachment 7706401

what barrel tuner is this?

 

[6.5SH]

what barrel tuner is this?

Looks like an ATS with a suppressor in front.

Adaptive Tuning System (ATS) - Competition Model (Tapered)

US Patent No 11,333,459 CUSTOM THREADS NOW AVAILABLE! If you would like a thread specification not offered by default, please select the Custom Thread Option and add your thread specs in the notes on the cart page during checkout. Threads smaller than 1/2" or larger than 15/16" diameter are not...

www.kineticsecuritysolutions.com

 

[CountryShooter]

I've got a 16" and it honestly feels too short, even with a silencer. I'd recommend 20".

I'm the exact opposite. I've owned both. Big preference for 16" with suppressor.

 

[SwedishMoose]

I'm the exact opposite. I've owned both. Big preference for 16" with suppressor.

Interesting. I'll have to try a 20" and see.

 

[chzhd]

I am looking to make a few upgrades to my T1x. Currently it is straight out of the box stock with a Area419 30 MOA scope rail. The main uses for this rifle with be for the whole family to go plinking with. The 2 ranges we go to have dedicated 22lr areas that go out to 100yds. My 12yo son and I will use it out to 400yds and it will be used introduce my 7yo daughter to proper firearms handling and shooting fundamentals.

First, I am currently looking at dropping it into a KRG Bravo stock and adding the toolless adjustable LOP to easily go between my daughter and me. I'm curious to know of other chassis/stock options.

Second, I have been tossing several different scopes on it and I want to get a dedicated scope for it. I've had several scopes on it ranging from an old Leupold Mark AR 3-9x40 to a NF 7-35x56. I am looking at the Bushnell Match Pro but I'd like the get some input on other options.

Thanks,

T