Hoping there will be
I know this may sound like a stupid question but I have decided to build a tikka and basically throw away the stock and barrel, order a manners or McMillan and have a bartlein spun up for it. I'm wanting some opinions on whether to order a stainless or blued model. I know it's very subjective but any input would help.
Interesting... don't throw that barrel away mate. It'll probably shoot as well as the custom.
I guess if the profile isn't right then its worth changing I guess.... No problem with the stock though!
I guess if the profile isn't right then its worth changing I guess.... No problem with the stock though!
Any way to get the KRG Bravo to take the CTR mags? I love em and their 2.93" COAL.
SAC built 284Win
Tikka long action
Very nice!
we talked about this in the KRG bling page, you would need to machine the chassis and stock inside the magwell and get the KRG TRG extended mag catch: new bling from krg pg.12
i picked up a sako green bravo and am going to take it to my gunsmith when i go to pick up my CTR at his shop. at $75 an hour i'd only be willing to sink a few hours into get the CTR mags seeing that its a $400 chassis.
Anyone else have trouble removing the factory bolt from the dovetail joint? I've got the firing pin rotated in the correct position to relieve the spring tension but the handle isn't sliding out nor does it wiggle any. I'm tempted to whack it with a punch but thought I should ask first before getting violent.
I've heard it's a PIA to get the sterk handle in and I'm already not looking forward to it.
I've heard it's a PIA to get the sterk handle in and I'm already not looking forward to it.
I actually disassembled the entire thing, meaning I took the firing pin out and I did not have any issues getting the handle out. The sterk was a little tight but I didnt need to hammer or wiggle it in.
Thanks for the reply. Do you just pull the firing pin straight out?
Sorry, I had my order out of wack. Bolt Shroud, Handle, Firing Pin. I did the exact same thing as the below video with no issues.
Thanks but I've watched all the videos and it's not budging. I dripped some Kroil into joint but it's still stuck. Next I'm thinking heat/cold then jackhammer.
Hi, like always, we will do a hide group buy for all the hide members, in the next few weeks once we get back from shot show. Thank you
Here is few pics of our new adjusting knob for our KMW cheek hardware, the first production batch should be 5 to 6 weeks. Thank you
Thanks for the info Thomas!
Not sure who/where has any pains in the ass putting a sterk handle in... I'd like to think that type of issue or feedback would be brought to my attention... especially after 400+ handles in the wild. Tight tolerances will result in a tight fit - not a bad thing for your rifle bolt. Please don't use any tools apart from your hands to fit a handle. If it doesn't go in correctly you'll gouge up metal and be screwed real fast.
The front of the firing pin locates into a scallop in the front of the bolt handle dovetail - this might be causing the jam. As already recommended i'd be wiggling etc until it comes out. The last thing you want is to damage your bolt body.
If he didn't block the firing pin from moving forward with an allen wrench or some other type of tool before he made the twist to the deep scallop it's not going to budge.
He has to reset the firing pin back up onto the upper level then block it and make his turn.
It can be turned back up to the upper level easily with a pair of pliars preferably with the jaws wrapped in tape or cloth to keep from marring the finish.
John,
I may have exaggerated the commonality of folks that had difficulty installing your bolt handle...I recall two such instances in this thread. It wasn't meant to be a criticism of your product. I'll take a tight fitting handle that's a bit of a challenge to install over a sloppy fitting handle any day.
I'll just be happy to get the factory handle out. Do you think it would be okay to put the handle in a vise and tap the body of the bolt with a piece of wood or rubber mallet?
Perhaps I'm missing something. Here's my bolt:
So as you can see, I've got my Allen key in place and can move the tab back into the small detent. Does the size of the Allen key matter? Should I use the thinnest one that'll provide the leverage necessary to turn the firing pin or the thickest one that'll fit?
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Make sure its in the lowest part of the cam detent. You're almost there
Smaller will make it worse.
Cock the bolt and find a flat head screw driver that will fit in the notch and keep it "completely" open then twist it to the scallop.
Just make sure your screw driver will stay put and not slip out.
Perhaps I'll make a video of my own...
Talk about tight fitting handles! Sometimes wiggling isn't enough. The manual does support hitting the handle with a plastic hammer if it won't slide off, btw. I improvised a little but it worked out. Thanks to all that offered assistance.
Unfortunately your friend is pretty screwed a bolt has to be properly head spaced and I highly doubt Tikka is willing to just send him one. There isn't even a part# for one in the "spare parts" section of the manual if anything they would probably want him to send the whole rifle back.
I disagree completely. I can swap any common bolt on my T3's and they headspace is fine. A Tikka bolt is a Tikka bolt. Brownells has them for sale but the are Expensive. I do agree he is screwed and is better off getting a used T3 for the price of a replacement bolt, or just buying a new rifle. There are no aftermarket bolt options that I know of.
I agree with you I have swapped bolts before from rifle to rife, but I do check head space with a set of GO/NO-GO gauges to be on the safe side. I was more or less predicting the position I think Tikka is going to take on it, but I could be totally wrong.
Here's my .308 CTR in a TRG / Sporter inspired laminate stock which I made. S&B PM1 3-12x50 & Ase Utra Jet-Z mod.
That stock looks GREAT, love the sporters!
Awesome looking stock, I always liked the look of the sporters, and love the ergonomics of my trg22/42.
does anyone know what the dimensions are for the CTR barrel contour? im contemplating getting a AE30 or AEM5-30 and want to know if there will be enough meat on my 20" .308 ctr barrel to contour for it.
Anyone have a rough final weight of these carbon stocks for the Tikka?
Pretty darn close to a light palma.
New Athlon Ares BTR 4.5-27X50
Greystone 3K Suppressor and 0 MOA Base
Leupold Low QR Rings
Atlasworxs Bottom metal
Bell and Carlson Stock
Greystone 3K Suppressor and 0 MOA Base
Leupold Low QR Rings
Atlasworxs Bottom metal
Bell and Carlson Stock
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I have two Tikka, a 223 Lite the bolt just slides out, a 308 CTR and I had to really put some effort to get it out, aftermarket bolt handle also needs to be filed a little bit to fit the CTR bolt.
The PRS-1tk stocks come standard in a elite carbon fiber shells, they run about 2.95 lbs but will always depend on hardware and pad. The mcs-dbmtk chassis is about 10ounces and the ctr will come in about 6 ounces. Thank you
I didn't realise how small the CTRs were. Now to wait for the rest of the parts to turn up and send it off.
Scope for entertainment purposes only
Also, does anyone know if tikka short action .308 bolts can be machined to magnum boltface? I have a second tikka that is not going to be used much anymore.
Scope for entertainment purposes only
Also, does anyone know if tikka short action .308 bolts can be machined to magnum boltface? I have a second tikka that is not going to be used much anymore.
Installed mine yesterday. Breaks clean at 1.5lbs. Shipping takes forever as it is coming from Canada, but worth the wait. Trigger is very nice now.
You can buy the Elay Precision trigger spring, its made in the USA, shipping is fast and free in Ebay. It reduces the trigger pull just like Yodave to around 1lb 6oz.
Thanks for the info. So just under 3 lbs is where these will be running as the lightest option and weight goes up from there?
Hi Alaskalanche, Yes for the prs1tk with adj cheek. We do also make the EH1Tk, non adj cheek but high, and depending on hardware comes in at about 27oz, the mcs-ehT (tikka) hunter that is about 25oz. thank you
I picked up the EH1A tikka inletted that was ready to ship, how much roughly will a eh1a weigh over the non adjustable?
I'd be interested to hear how this works out
Good info, thanks! Any photos of the EH1Tk?
And will that MSC-ehT get the Tikka Chassis as well?
Whiskey 3 chassis came in for my Tikka 6.5 Creed this week. Really liking this setup.
Tikka CTR 3 by X Ring, on Flickr
Tikka CTR 1 by X Ring, on Flickr
Awesome setup! I am looking at something similar with a Bravo chassis. What base are you using and what height rings are those?
I have settled on the EGW HD 20MOA base. The rings are Seekins "high" which are 1" height.
Hi, new member here who's only recently gotten into precision shooting.
I have a Tikka T3x Varmint in .223, and I want to upgrade the factory stock to the KRG Bravo. Does anyone here own that chassis? The problem I have is that the cheek piece seems to be very close to the back of the receiver (compared for example to the X-Ray and Whiskey 3) and I'm concerned that when raised, the cheek piece might interfere with the bolt throw. So far I haven't been able to find any photos of a Tikka in a Bravo chassis with the bolt all the way open.
Also, is there a definitive answer on whether the MDT .223 polymer AICS mags work in a T3x?
I have a Tikka T3x Varmint in .223, and I want to upgrade the factory stock to the KRG Bravo. Does anyone here own that chassis? The problem I have is that the cheek piece seems to be very close to the back of the receiver (compared for example to the X-Ray and Whiskey 3) and I'm concerned that when raised, the cheek piece might interfere with the bolt throw. So far I haven't been able to find any photos of a Tikka in a Bravo chassis with the bolt all the way open.
Also, is there a definitive answer on whether the MDT .223 polymer AICS mags work in a T3x?
Not sure what qualifies as "definitive" I used the MDT .223 mags in combo with a KRG X-Ray and my T3 .223 for a while, before I transitioned back to the factory mags with a Mountain Tactical factory-pattern bottom metal in a McM A3. The MDT mags did feed acceptably, though not as smoothly as the factory Tikka mag/bottom metal combo. IMHO the best option for a Tikka .223 is always going to be the factory mags/factory-pattern bottom metal. The MDT mags are an acceptable alternative if you need to use a AICS pattern mag with your chassis/stock choice.
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i have it and it does interfere if you run the cheek to high, solutions to the issue are:
- run lower rings
- use a pad on the cheek rest
i raised the cheek as high as i could before it started to interfere with the bolt and it actually worked out fine for me. ill post some pictures tomorrow.
