Would you guys mind helping me look over this reloading supply list?

[dlouie87]

Hello everyone,

I just wanted to start off by saying that the members of this forum and the forum itself has helped me learn so much since I’ve registered. I’m also very thankful for the market place as it allowed me to purchase some used parts and has saved me a bit of money.

So I decided to take up reloading a few months ago but my budget from being fresh out of college, has limited me to buy everything at once. So I began buying parts here and there and with patience and time, I’m almost ready to start this new hobby (I think). Let me know if I’m missing anything or if you have any better recommendations.

I plan on reloading .308 first and then .223 and 9mm later.

Here is the List:

Dillon 550b (I plan on getting a single stage later, I got the Dillon for free so it’s what I have to work with right now)

Forster ultra .308 die set , Dillon 9mm dies, and Dillon .223 dies
Whidden tool heads
RCBS trim mate
RCBS chargemaster
Redding trickler
Digital calipers
Hornady comparator
L.E. Wilson case gauges
Rcbs case lube and pad
Reloading manual(s)
Lyman tumbler (given to me) with Lyman red media (←stuff leaves a stain on the brass as I tried tumbling some brass already. Any other recommendations?)

And of course the powder, brass, projectiles, and primers are accounted for as well.

So I think I still need a bullet removal tool and some sort of case trimmer. I have read about possum hollow and the little crow gun works but I do not know which to get.

Also, I’ve read about the flash hole uniforming and deburring tools. Are those necessary?

Please let me know how much list is and if I need to get anything else or change anything out. Let me know what you guys would add so I can make a list of stuff to get for the future.

This has been a long 7 months of collecting parts but I’m almost there. Again, I feel like I can count on the members on here to help me once again.

Thank you for your time and happy Memorial Day Weekend.

 

[Big Z]

A handheld priming tool and shellholders.

 

[Rainier42]

I would stay away from the red media. Have heard that it is rouge and contains a grit, which is not good for your barrel. I use a uniforming tool and it makes seating the primer much easier.

Just a thought ... you may want to start with 9mm first as it doesn't require case trimming and is just a little easier.

 

[M1Amen]

I would lose the archaic vibratory tumbler and go with a rotary tumbler and stainless steel pins.

M1Amen

 

[Genius.]

I would swap out the case lube and lube pad and go with Dillons spray lube.
Or make your own, I believe Lanolin oil and 90% isopropyl alcohol

Also look into the Lyman case prep center. It deburs the inside and outside of the necks, cleans the primer pocket, uniforms the primer pocket and has a crimp remover, which doesn't work the best.

 

[thrusty]

RCBS collet bullet puller and caliber collets
Lyman universal depriming die
Hornady headspace gauge kit
Hornady COAL gauge and caliber cases

Sinclair's chamber length gauges for determining trim-to-length for your caliber

I like the Forster original case trimmer. But Little Crows best case trimmer or a Giard case trimmer is very nice.

 

[M1Amen]

I would swap out the case lube and lube pad and go with Dillons spray lube.
Or make your own, I believe Lanolin oil and 90% isopropyl alcohol

Also look into the Lyman case prep center. It deburs the inside and outside of the necks, cleans the primer pocket, uniforms the primer pocket and has a crimp remover, which doesn't work the best.

99% alcohol is the recipe. Special order it at the pharmacy. 90% won't work.

 

[427Cobra]

Forget the trim mate, buy a Giraud Trimmer.
Sinclair Gen2 flash hole deburring tool
Sinclair primer pocket uniformer
Imperial Sizing Wax for the precision stuff, Dillon or DIY spray lube for blasting ammo
Cordless Drill/Driver
Ammo Trays

 

[dlouie87]

RCBS collet bullet puller and caliber collets
Lyman universal depriming die
Hornady headspace gauge kit
Hornady COAL gauge and caliber cases

Sinclair's chamber length gauges for determining trim-to-length for your caliber

I like the Forster original case trimmer. But Little Crows best case trimmer or a Giard case trimmer is very nice.

Isn't the headspace gauge the same as the comparator with the .308 and .223 inserts?

Do I need the lyman depriming? I thought the resizing forster die deprimes as well?

A handheld priming tool and shellholders.

I was hoping to prime on the dillon with the primer tube loader. I could consider this when I get the Single stage.

I would lose the archaic vibratory tumbler and go with a rotary tumbler and stainless steel pins.

M1Amen

I have been thinking about this... but it'll have to be later down the road because it's out of my budget. I have to work with what I have for now.

I would swap out the case lube and lube pad and go with Dillons spray lube.
Or make your own, I believe Lanolin oil and 90% isopropyl alcohol

Also look into the Lyman case prep center. It deburs the inside and outside of the necks, cleans the primer pocket, uniforms the primer pocket and has a crimp remover, which doesn't work the best.

I will look into this. The Lyman you mention is same as my Trim Mate Center.

---

Thank you guys. Keep the recommendations coming. I have written a few things to get in the future but for now, I'm going to invest in the Little crow trimmer for .308 and .223, Ammo trays, primer pocket uniformer, and flash hole deburring tool.

 

[thrusty]

These are accessories, which you can add to your tool box later - having them just makes things a little easier.
The headspace gauge is not the same as the comparator - Comparator with inserts measures overall length of your cartridge to your ogive. Headspace gauge measures your rifles headspace by taking a measurement off your fired brass's datum.

You can use your die's included decapping pin....however, I prefer to deprime my brass prior to sizing so I can throw it in the tumbler and clean the brass before running them through my expensive Redding dies. Plus if you pick up any range brass you can deprime them real quick. I find the LEE is the best die...for the money it can't be beat. (CORRECTION FROM ABOVE - It is NOT a Lyman die...it is a LEE)

I've got many more items I use for reloading...the other posters have hit on some of them already.

Hornady Lock-N-Load Overall Length Gage Bolt Action
Hornady Lock-N-Load Overall Length Gage Modified Case 308 Winchester

Lee Universal Depriming Decapping Die
Lee Universal Depriming Decapping Die Pin

Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace Gage 5 Bushing Set Comparator

Sinclair Chamber Length Gage | Sinclair Intl

I have used a vibratory tumbler all my life...keep untreated corn-cob media on hand and buy Flitz polishing compound if you want to cut your tumble time in half and create a high polish.
I know the stainless tumbling is nice...but I still achieve good results without all the prep work of water and pins.
Flitz Brass Case Polish

Trimmer
Forster Original Case Trimmer Kit

Large primer pocket uniformer
Redding Primer Pocket Uniformer Tool Large

Imperial wax and dry lube
Imperial Case Sizing Wax 2oz
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/614125/imperial-dry-neck-lube-convenience-pak?cm_vc=subv1892537

I buy these for ALL my non-Hornady dies
Hornady Sure-Loc Die Locking Ring 7/8-14 Thread

When you decide to anneal your brass...only need to use it on a few brass to give you an idea of how much time to apply heat..apply sparingly to inside of case mouth
Tempilaq Temperature Indicator 700 Degree 2oz

 

[M1Amen]

Forget the trim mate, buy a Giraud Trimmer.
Sinclair Gen2 flash hole deburring tool
Sinclair primer pocket uniformer
Imperial Sizing Wax for the precision stuff, Dillon or DIY spray lube for blasting ammo
Cordless Drill/Driver
Ammo Trays

I completely agree on the giraud. I couldn't imagine sitting there with that prehistoric hand equipment to trim, chamfer and deburr 1,000 pieces. It would require the length of time since the inception of the universe until now. If you can't afford the giraud right now, go ahead with your setup but keep the giraud and a rotary tumbler with pins at the top of your short list of stuff to get down the road.

 

[dlouie87]

Yeah, the Giruad will have to wait. I think I'm going with the WFT from little crow gun works for now. I'm not going to be a high volume reloader when I start so it'll be nice to take my time.

As for the SS tumbler... is it just :

Stainless media

and

Tumbler:
Thumler's Tumbler Model B High Speed Rotary Case Tumbler 110 Volt

 

[dlouie87]

[MENTION=66978]thrusty[/MENTION],

Thank you for you lengthy and informative replies. It's going to take me a few weeks to get all those supplies. I'll start with the Lee decapping die and just use one of my extra tool heads to do all the decapping on the dillon.

As for the pocket uniformer, I'm going to use my RCBS trimmate. It came with the tool heads (large and small uniformers)

As for the OAL and bullet seating depth, That is what the comparator is for right? Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator Basic Set 6 Inserts

And for the head space, wouldn't my LE. Wilson headspace gages work the same as the hornady that you mentioned? I have these: L.E. Wilson Case Length Headspace Gage 308 Winchester

I just want to make sure I'm not getting referred the same parts.

Again, Thank you.

 

[427Cobra]

I also suggest not getting into SS media, a cheap ass tumbler with Walnut media from a pet store and a little NuFinish works great, I either do by hand with OOOO steel wool or as stated tumble PR brass, blasting ammo gets SS cleaned. FACT dirty brass shoots better than über clean brass, the left over carbon inside the necks aids aids in bullet release, this is a time proven method in short and long range BR comps, just brush out the necks with what cal the brass is with a cleaning brush, don't do more than is required, and don't do anything that can't be verified on target.

 

[thrusty]

[MENTION=45542]dlouie87[/MENTION]

You're spot on - the Hornady comparator will give you COL measured to the bullet's ogive...which should give you more accurate measurements as opposed to measuring from the case head to the the bullet tip.

The Hornady headspace guage is the same as the Wilson one you mentioned....the Hornady just offers a different way of measuring it...should yield you the same result regardless of which brand you choose to use. I only prefer the Hornady because it comes in a complete set that will allow you to measure headspace on (just about) all commonly used cartridges. The Hornady comes with a learning curve though due to it's design. Below is a good video on what I mean....

00037 - YouTube

 

[rw496]

The guy in the video kept saying sixteen-hundredths when I think he meant sixteen one-thousandths. I'm pretty new at this too and it kinda screwed me up for a minute.

 

[thrusty]

The guy in the video kept saying sixteen-hundredths when I think he meant sixteen one-thousandths. I'm pretty new at this too and it kinda screwed me up for a minute.

He should be saying sixteen-thousandths...that's about how much mine is off.

Sixteen-hundredths = 0.16"
Sixteen-thousandths = 0.016"

Regardless, the part you need to take away from the video is that if you are trying to measure headspace, you need to have a known go/no-go gauge so you can take a measurement of it and then know how much to adjust for due to the beveled edge Hornady put on the gauge.

For me it's not an issue since I use the gauge to tell me how much I'm bumping the shoulder back when I FL size my brass. If the gauge shows the shoulder has moved 0.002" after I sized, my die is set up the way I want it.

 

[JGorski]

He should be saying sixteen-thousandths...that's about how much mine is off.

Sixteen-hundredths = 0.16"
Sixteen-thousandths = 0.016"

Regardless, the part you need to take away from the video is that if you are trying to measure headspace, you need to have a known go/no-go gauge so you can take a measurement of it and then know how much to adjust for due to the beveled edge Hornady put on the gauge.

For me it's not an issue since I use the gauge to tell me how much I'm bumping the shoulder back when I FL size my brass. If the gauge shows the shoulder has moved 0.002" after I sized, my die is set up the way I want it.

I left him a comment on youtube.

 

[dlouie87]

I have a better understanding now about the gages. Thanks.

Now, I'm wondering about the flash hole tools. How important are they? Can I get those later down the road and start reloading without those?

 

[thrusty]

I have a better understanding now about the gages. Thanks.

Now, I'm wondering about the flash hole tools. How important are they? Can I get those later down the road and start reloading without those?

If you are starting out and just want to produce quality ammo, you can do without a lot of the tools, including flash hole debur tool and primer pocket uniformer. I bought all my stuff as needed...When you want to start building great ammo that has low SD and ES then you have to start acquiring the tools - I haven't made it to the point where I'm buying the equipment to turn necks or check runout...

Your essentials are press, scale, dies, shell holder, case trimmer, chamfer/debur tool, priming tool, lube and pad....and a good book.
You can get by without...but I highly suggest a digital caliper.

 

[FLIGHT762]

I'll chime in on a headspace gauge tool and a digital caliper. Dump the wilson drop in gauge (not really, you can keep it around for rough sizing only, I still use my Dillon drop in gauges for rough checking). I have the Hornady and the Sinclair head space gauge tools. Between the two, I'd go with the Hornady set. You get more bang for the buck with it.

My Hornady tool with the .400" datum (308 Win. insert) set on a 1.630" .308 Winchester GO Gauge measures at 1.611". It just gives me a reference point like the posted video by thrusty explained. Regardless, you will use the Hornady gauge to measure the fired cases from your rifle. You will then set your F/L resizing die to bump the shoulder back .001"-.002".

Nearly all new reloaders have no concept of how to properly set their F/L dies up. Every day on this forum, someone is asking for help because their F/L sizing die is not sizing their cases and they have no frigging clue on what their doing. Precision reloading takes some time to read up on what you have to do to make really accurate ammo. There's lots of ways to do it. It took me a lot of years of trial and error to understand this precision stuff.

The headspace gauge and he digital caliper will show you the numbers where your cases will chamber and where they will not. It's very simple once you have the tools and the understanding.

 

[dlouie87]

Good advice. I'm sure I'll be one of those people to ask that question if I don't understand it when I start. I'm doing a lot of ready but it's a bit overwhelming. I wish there were like classes for this stuff!

I noticed you are in SF. I just moved over here to the East Bay.