How does everyone like their large frames setup (i.e. role/optic/barrel length/profile) and what do you think makes the most sense? Lets say you could have one or two large frames rather than a bunch setup in specific ways.

I tried the lightweight battle rifle type setup with a lpvo a lot of people seem to be doing lately but pretty much came to the conclusion that for anything within the range of 5.56 the weight, cost, recoil, and noise outweigh the positives. I'm now going the 20" medium-heavy barrel route with a 2-10 to take advantage of the range the cartridge offers, that is the biggest benefit over 5.56 after all. It's going to be a pig but even my "lightweight" build was heavy with a mag and optics, so oh well.

Just looking for some opinions on a good quality scope for hunting. My turret preferences would be to have a dialable elevation turret. Windage could be as well or capped. I would also like it to have a SFP reticle. I have a hard time with FFP in low light.

Big boy with a C.A. rifle needed a longer LOP. I was hell bent not to have to grind this thing to fit on the stock because I suck and I know I'd nick the paint.

Sooooooo.....we did dis instead.


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I see lots of similar offerings.

What would you do and where would you start?

Do some of these use 1 in 8 twists or do some need a faster twist?

I'm planning on a bolt action with the .223 accurate mags and forgiving would be my #1 followed by a decent BC as #2.

Would be shooting to 500 yards.

75 vs 80gr eldm - these seem fairly balanced as far as BC vs weight.

77 vs 80gr smk - seems like the 80 has a big increase in BC compared to the 77 for only 3 grs.

80.5gr fullbore vs 80gr VLD - seems like the fullbore is easy to load due to the tangent ogive?

Thanks in advance!

Short story: Someone had a bad day installing an EBR. We were asked to try and fix it.

It begins...




Zapped with the TIG and were ready to start blending it back into something recognizable.




After some "fluff n buff". Onto the mill.



Front end was a bit too long so I went back and filled it up as well.



Finish blending after the mill work.



And were done. Saved one from the grave. Always a good feeling.

https://www.milehighshooting.com/tck-labradar-radar-unit/

I know some people have been looking

... and just arrived, compliments of Creedmoor Sports ... 200 new Lapua 300-PRC cases. Proof that patience pays off.

Now if my backorder for Berger 220's would get filled ... I'd have something to shoot out of them.

Um ... sorry ... I'm being impatient (again).

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I wonder when he had his booster...

With the trend being towards heavier and heavier barrels like the proof competition contour, I'm beginning to question how much sense it makes to free float barrels of this size in a stock. If you're using a chassis I could understand it since the receiver in the chassis is going to be one complete rigid unit. With a lighter profile barrel I could also understand it because you're trying not to influence the natural harmonics of the barrel, but I have a hard time believing any barrel of this diameter is going to have any appreciable whip to it. My concern is having a stiff enough system at the receiver end so that it doesn't actually increase the vibration of the barrel. My next build is going to be on a Defiance Deviant tactical long action with a heavy tang, devcon bedded with pillars in a manners T4A CF stock and a Lilja #14 barrel. It's going to be a strictly prone gun shot off a bipod or bags. When you're talking about hanging an 8 pound barrel off of an action even with all that stiffening, I still feel like free floating is putting a lot of flex into the system, and it might be better to have it as one solid unit. On the other hand, my McMilllan 50 has a 16 pound barrel that's floated and it shoots lights out. But it's also in a solid fiberglass Big Mac stock that weighs 9 lbs and is probably 2 inches thick down the center so not exactly an apples to apples comparison. Has anybody tried full length bedding one of these super heavy barrels, and if so how did it work for you?

Up for grabs is a lightly used NX8 4-32 with Mil-C reticle. Mounted on a 260 for a handful of range sessions in Seekins rings. Glass is flawless, and I never set the Zero Stop so you don’t have to mess with that. I am selling the rifle this was on, so my loss is your gain. Comes with everything it came with from the factory. $1,600 TYD discreet PayPal preferred. Thanks for looking.

I have read the helpful sticky at the top of this thread “Tips for Asking Advice About Rifle Scopes”.
I have read Chapters 3 (Sniperscope Basics) and Chapter 4 (Using a sniperscope) from The Ultimate Sniper.
I have read Rifle Scopes 101 from www.centerfiretraining.com.
I have downloaded and reviewed the spreadsheet at AR15 Recommended Rifle Scopes
I have been reading the Observation & Sighting Devices forums here at www.snipershide.com for a few weeks now.
I have been reading two Optics, Mounts, and Sights forums at www.ar15.com.

I say this because I don’t want to be one of those one post newbies that expects you to solve my all problems with little or no effort on my part. Your time and expertise are valuable and hope I don’t waste them.

So… I got a new rifle and I’m hoping y’all can help me pick the right scope.

What is the platform for the scope? DPMS LR-308 (AR-10) 24” heavy barrel w/ picrail top
What cartridge are you shooting? .308
What is your intended use for the scope? 90% Paper targets and steel. 10% white tail hunting
What type of conditions will you typically shoot in? Daylight, Lowlight
What are the typical distances you intend to shoot? For starters 200yds but I’d like to eventually work my way up to steel targets at 600yds so I’d rather go ahead and buy a scope for 600yds now.
What is the price range you can afford? I’m prepared to spend up to $1,500 for scope and rings combo. If a few more dollars can be justified I can go a little more.
Are there any specific specifications you would like?

• Shooting will be from a supported position, so weight doesn’t matter.
• Lighted reticle = not needed.
• Anything but duplex.
• 1st Focal Plane vs 2nd Focal Plane, no preference.

In short, I’d like a scope capable of shooting paper and steel targets at ranges between 200 and 600yds during daylight/lowlight hours. I’m very much a “buy once cry once” kind of guy. I would rather spend the money on a quality scope now. I don’t want to buy something “for now” only want to upgrade at a later date.

I saw a good comments on the Vortex Razor LHT FFP 4.5-22x50 and I’m also sort of interested in the Nightforce BR scopes any comments those scopes are particularly welcome.

I’ve done some of my own research and have a short working list below, but I’m open for recommendations.

So… have at it. I’m at your mercy and any recommendations for (or against) would be very much appreciated.

New Year, New contracts...

Next Generation Squad Weapons – Fire Control (NGSW-FC) Follow-on Production Award​

The Next Generation Squad Weapons – Fire Control (NGSW-FC) Production Other Transaction Agreement will provide the U.S. Government the ability to procure fire controls, supporting accessories, contractor support, spare parts, repairs, and engineering efforts to support the National Defense Strategy, to include other Department of Defense Services and potential Foreign Military Sales. The NGSW-FC is the planned fire control for the Next Generation Squad Weapons – Rifle and Next Generation Squad Weapons – Automatic Rifle. The NGSW-FC is the planned replacement for the Close Combat Optic, Rifle Combat Optic, and Machine Gun Optic within the Close Combat Force.

This is my Dad



He had a heart attack today and whilst having said heart attack drove himself to the hospital and walked in the ER. Of course, they took him straight back and the word is he actually asked the doctor "Is this a real heart attack?". One emergency surgery procedure later and he's doing pretty good, looks like he'll be in the hospital for a couple days and then he can go home.

I told him that if he wanted to get out of shooting this weekend all he had to do was say so.

As the reloading table has now been built, the old man and myself are wondering what everybody does when it comes to tumbling.

Are you doing it before pulling primers, or after?

It’s been easily 35+ years for him since he last did any kind of reloading, and I haven’t even touched it as of yet.

Thanks guys.

6.5 projectiles Im not using.
100 Berger 130 hybrid otm tac
69 Berger 156 eol elite Hunter
66 Berger 140 hybrid target
46 Hornady 143 eldx
55 Hornady 147 eldm
151 Sierra 130 game changers.
Would like to sell as a lot but not 100% necessary. .60 cents ea on the bergers
.30 each Hornady
.40 ea Sierra
$220 for the lot

Hide special, order a new one from our site and request the Tenebraex caps in the notes and we send them you a set for free!

Vortex Razor HD Gen III 6-36x56 MRAD with Free Tenebraex caps https://cstactical.com/vortex-razor-gen-iii-6-36x56-ffp-ebr7-d-mrad/

Vortex RAZOR® HD GEN III 6-36X56 RIFLESCOPE​

Built around the perfect balance of magnification and field of view, the Razor® Gen III 6-36x56 FFP delivers the resolution and contrast you need for long-range, tactical shooting. To get the absolute most out of the first focal plane reticle, the EBR-7D presents a clean sight picture while still providing ample wind holds and ranging information. Round it out with a rugged build and you have the long-range, tactical solution you’ve been waiting for.

The CDC finally doing things CDC should be doing:

Summary: 3 Americans have recently died from Rabies in Bats (Idaho, Illinois, Texas).
Moral of the story: if you see a f*cked up bat do not try to pick it up.
And ABC journalists still can't spell-check simple words like "exposure"....

Older news story, but my point stands.

Mind yo bizznasss


I’d also vote not guilty.

Anybody tuned into this?

I listened for a while; but got sick. Some guy from the xiden admin screaming about how it's unvaccinated taking up hospital space and shit. No true facts from what I can tell, just a Karen screaming.

8 Twist, Heavy Barrel, <100 rounds since new, includes rail and Witt machine 1/2-28 adapter.

$825 Zelle, USPS MO, cash Shipped from private party to your FFL

Looking to trade a Tikka in 6.5 SAUM for a tikka more oriented towards prs match shooting - 6cm or 308. Specs are as follows:

- Tikka stainless action - minor pitting on bolt face from a blown primer by the previous owner.
- 20 moa rail
- Aluminum bolt shroud
- Varmint bolt handle
- 22” 6.5 SAUM proof Carbon 1:8 twist barrel, 320rds through it
- accurate mag 3rd wsm mag
- Smithed but Mile high in March of 2017
- Xlr Carbon chassis - a small 8-32 hole was drilled for an unknown purpose by the previous owner towards the back of the chassis.
Area 419 sidewinder 5/8”-24 - 30 cal

Shoots factory prime 6.5 SAUM into 0.5”. I have 185ish rds that will come with it. Rifle was used to win the sniper adventure challenge a few years ago.

Asking $1525 for rifle, $1.75/rd on the ammo

So I’m up in Chardon Ohio. And had to get about 6 miles from I 90 down to Chardon.

Took an entire hour. Because an endless chain of stupid fucking Karen’s in their goddamn SUVs and Mercedes with no fucking snow tires and no goddamn clue how to drive in the snow but wearing five masks apiece I’ll have to be on the road?

What the fuck? This place is known as the lake effect capital of the world. It’s snows feet up here.

How the hell would you not be able to drive in the snow? How the hell would you not have your trophy- wife white suburban pick up truck equipped with decent tires. (And that was a dude. He is still a Karen.)

Again… WTF?

If you’re not equipped. If you’re terrified. If you’re incapable… stay the fuck home you stupid faggot. You are a danger to yourself and others. Why the hell are you on the road? Go make a zoom call if the rules can’t live without you for a couple of hours.

We need a proper pandemic to weed out about 100 million Karen’s. Ebola anyone? I’m rooting for 1919 again.

Let’s show people what a real slate wiper looks like. And we could start with the people using summer tires on their pick up trucks in the snow belt in January.

Sirhr

If I'm FL resizing and have no issues with bolt closure, why would I want to shoulder bump?
I've read some folks saying it's always a good practice, but it seems to me that your only over working the brass if it's not needed to chamber a round.
School me.