Have a chance to pick up some old CMP lake city 3006 in clips sealed in cans. What's it worth per round now? Buying it from a friends fathers estate, dont want to screw them over. Google fu has let me down. Just threads from 2006-2008....

Looking to sell one of my trainers. Low rd count. Less than 150. Will give exact count to interested parties. Will trade for a STI/ DVC 2011 in 9mm with dragon scale grip

~Defiance Machine Tenacity
~Proof Research 26” comp contour 1:7 chambered in .223
~MPA Comp BA in gun Kandy purple
~Vortex Strike Eagle MRAD FFP 5-25x50
~MPA 34mm one piece mount w/ diving board
~AAC 51T brake (with or without)
~Triggertech Special single stage
~MDT 223 mag x3

$3700 shipped. Will sell without the optic also. Knock $500 off for that.

Does not include bipod.

Will throw in ammo I have for it if you’re local (Columbus, GA) but not shipping it. I’m shooting 77gr SMK through it.

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If real, this sure looks like roid rage, just saying…

Or perhaps just thuggz inna hood inna uniform

St Gary is the Patron Saint of Fatherhood.

Chad tuner brake. $SOLD shipped

.264

So, this week I believe I made my final change to my primary rifle, a 20" Grendel, and historically once a gun is "perfect" I get the stencils out and paint it. Half the reason I do this is corrosion protection, and the other half is cosmetic, because YOLO and all that.

So, last night as I gathered the stencils and masking tape and began degreasing, I remembered that in my half frugal, somewhat "poors" situation of using Noveske B line parts, I had a black cerakoted handguard that would likely not accept the paint and end up looking like shit. I like this rifle black as it has some carbon furniture and I wasn't mad at it, but

I live in southern Louisiana and hunt in southern Texas near the gulf. Everything rusts in real time.

So, regarding the small parts - screw heads, and possibly to some degree safety/bolt release/mag catch/buffer plate - any brilliant suggestions other than Cerakote?

Was considering cleaning them and then applying some enamel based but figured I'd check in with the brain trust. I don't anticipate taking much apart on this one in the future but would prefer to change tolerances as little as possible.

I'm mainly a milsurp guy but have put together a couple of new/commercial bolt action rifles, supressed, and thinking about going further.

My RPR in .308 is astonishing (to me) for the money. Just landed a 1" group @ 300yds wi 175gr FGMM.

An RAR in x39 in a nice Boyd's stock has delivered 1.5" @ 100yds wi 1970s Romy milsurp.

Have a sh_t ton of various 55gr backed up and three nice ARs in .223 but am bored with em.

Sooo, thinkin about a bolt action in .233. All cursory web scanning a steers my towards another RAR. It really appeals to me to use standard 10-20rd mags that I already have .

Thoughts, ideas?

I purchased this scope brand new from Optics Planet. This is my second least-used scope (I have an ATACR that's been out one time). It was on a Tikka T3 chambered in .223 which I had out once or maybe two times after load development. It lived its life in Nightforce Ultra-Lite Rings. It still has the sticker on the side for Pete's sake. There is one flaw right above the "12". I cannot recall how that happened at all, but my best guess(es) are that I either got clumsy with the Fix-It Sticks or I knicked it with a metal magazine somehow.

I did a thorough tall target test with the scope and it did well enough for me not to send it back. (I will update this, but if memory serves it was 0.98614. More importantly, it was VERY consistently close to that number throughout the adjustment range (see photos of recorded testing data).

It comes with Tenebraex covers which were about $80-100. I should have the bikini cover for it as well (will update one way or another).

G3 reticle - ILLUMINATED

$900 $850 Shipped CoNUS.

I’m looking for a Remington 700 Long action, preferably within the times of the Mk13 Mod 0s, DM me with any information, thanks!

So, I have some stuff my grandfather left me, as far as coins go. I’d like to price some of them out. Some have receipts of how much was paid for them. Some are PCGS WTC coins, various silver and gold and so on. Where does one price this stuff at? I’ve seen sole wild numbers of stuff on eBay and other places etc. but would like a legit place to find out what I should charge for some of this stuff if I decided to sell them. Yes, there are coin shops but how does one know that what they are telling them is legit?

From the past to the future. Starting with Continental troops in tricorns and carrying M1795 Springfield muskets to Boston Dynamic robodogs, and next generation IFVs equipped with drone countermeasures. Also Happy Birthday to President Donald J. Trump.

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Awesome presentation. As customary for events like this, every screen on the shop floor and warehouse area here are turned to this and everybody brought food and drinks. Being the early afternoon driver today taking an empty from a morning delivery back, that means another pizza run! Twice this year plus one for donuts. I do not remember any festive moods at all during the Biden "presidency". TODAY IS PART OF WHAT WE VOTED FOR IN 2024. And seeing the great election upheavals recently across Europe, we are inspiring others to also do the same and place their countries and cultures first in their spheres.

Selling my used, but good condition Eberlestock Gunslinger II Multicam pack with multicam pack mounted shooting rest and multicam hipbelt pouch.

Pack is used, but good condition with no rips/tears or broken buckles.

Price is SOLD. I take Paypal G&S +3.5%, Paypal F&F, Zelle, Venmo, USPS Money Order and Cash FTF in central Arkansas.

What’s for sale?​

Very lightly used Thunderbeast Arms Corp field bipod with spike feet. This TBAC bipod supplied without a clamp so you must provide your own 17S-compatible clamp (RRS, Area 429, knockoffs). This was my backup bipod, it has seen little to no use. Includes original feet (pictured).

How much?​

$310 shipped ground, AK/HI pay actual shipping. Payable via any fee-less electronic method, Zelle or similar preferred. Call/text/FaceTime available for proof of life and generally enjoyable, but opinionated conversation.

I hear you are all very polite and nice in here.

I decided to go with the B&T SRBS for my girls 6.5 Grendel based on recommendations here in my last thread. I have a Hybrid 46M for my MRAD and another old baffle type can for my SBR 300blk. I have a HUXWRX Flow 762 that floats around my semi autos. These include a 14.5 556 piston AR, 2 x 6.5 Grendel’s DI, and a SCAR 17 SBR with DiSCARder. I would like to leave the Flow 762 on the Scar and pick up another 762 suppressor. All of the semi autos use HUXWRX devices currently. I’d rather try something other than another Flow 762, and I’ve heard the Ventum does not suppress as well. I see a lot of praise for CAT OBD suppressors, but their stance as a company leaves a bad taste in my mouth. I need something that is at least “high flow”. All of the rifles have adjustable gas and the AR has the SD charging handle. I really like the Velios LBP 762. It’s $1099 plus stamp. Unfortunately the HUB adapter for HUXWRX is like $205 when you can find them. That will be an extra cost for anything but a HUXWRX though. I’m looking for suppression no worse than the Flow 762, but I would like to try something different. The shortest barrel is 13.9”.
Thank you

Just got it back from MCR with conversion. Barrel nut on the IBI 22" 1/12 barrel- thats the way they do it. You can adjust headspace that way. Now that it have the conversion , doesn't really help. Headspaced for Eley. Ships to your FFL with one mag and barrel nut tool. . $1900 shipped-I've got $2300 in it. He's not taking new orders, as a side note. Paypal friend or Venmo- don't have Zelle.

Thinking about spinning up a 7mm prc barrel for long range target shooting in the 22-26 inch range. Will at least start by using factory ammo in the 170-180 grain range. PVA is out of 1 in 8 barrels currently and I am wondering is a 1 in 7 would be too fast. According to the berger calculator it is good to go, but some other calculators say it will be over-stabalized. Of course, I don't think Bryan Litz believes in over-stabalization, so who am I to question it?

That said, what do you all think?

I have 3 of these that have accumulated in my gun room and I don’t think I’ll use any of them in the next 18months.

1. .224 5R 1:7” twist 29” $650 shipped insured
2. *SOLD* .243 5R 1:7.5” twist 31” $685 shipped insured
3. .308 5R-LH 1:8” 31” $685 shipped insured

If real, who’s willing to bet that it was just your usual “mechanical problems?”

Closeout sale on these, best price at checkout, no code needed

both brand new

I've been experiencing a lot of timeouts and constant cloudflare "are you human" checks every 5-10mins, anybody else?

I think I used some old gas that had a bit of water in it in my lawn mower. I've drained the remaining gas from the gas tank and removed the carb, drained and removed the bowl. I then cleaned it up with a rag and some compressed air. I'd prefer to not further disassemble the carb, but do want to make sure it's clean.

What would be the best bet from here to clean it out and make sure there's no bad gas or water left in it, aside from pull the float and jet?

Also...any suggestions of cleaning the tank? I thought I could perhaps flush it with rubbing alcohol, but not sure how much to use or how long it'd take to dry after draining (10 minutes?).

Engine is a Kohler XT650 fwiw.

I need your advice guys. The gun is a custom .308 with NF NX8 scope, hawkins rings, manners EH4 stock with élite shell (so there is a carbon fiber shell), defiance action and a 22 bartlein medium profile barrel. It weights around 11 lbs and i kept it reasonably light because I use it for hunting. At the range it shoots amazingly well, from prone and from a bench, with and without bipod. The last three Times i went to the range i was shooting some RWS factory ammo which the rifle shoots regularly in one rugged hole, no joke. Many times when I shoot the third, fourth or fifth round, i can’t literally see the new hole. It’s even difficult to estimate how largenare these groups because you literally don’t see bullet impacts since they are one over the other. BUT, i fired two times in field conditions and the results were bad. The first time i just shot 2 rounds to check zero and they went more than 1 MOA high so today i went at a range in the same mountains where i hunt where you can shoot prone from gravel, thinking it was a good way to try the behaviour of the rifle in a not solid and quite uneven terrain: disaster. Shooting prone, being decently comfortable, i shot around 60 shots and groups opened up from 0.3 to 1.5 moa more or less, with just a single 4 shots group which was 0.4 MOA and a 3 shots group which was 0.5. I tried Leaning bipod legs on a front fixed surface to push them, i tried to load the bipod more and i tried with different rear rests. At the end i noticed that bipod (harris) was digging into the ground resulting in very inconsistent recoil impulse despite my effort to keep the same exact position behind the rifle. Loading the bipod a bit (something i don’t like to do while hunting and which is difficult to do with a harris) helped a bit but groups remained around 1 moa. The spread of the groups was both vertical and lateral, maybe a little bit more vertical but not much so. Then i tried 9 shots in a row from a bench, same identical shooting range and target: 2 fliers and the other 7 shots literally in the same hole, divided into 2 groups which were not in the same exact poi but 1/2 MOA one from the other. The poi didn’t shift much during all the session, remaining centered on my zero overall. The total max spread of all the 60 shots was a little bit more than 2 MOA during all day, considering i switched from prone to bench and including all the “experimental” groups which i did.

1) has this much of an opening of groups to be expected when shooting with the bipod resting on gravel (maybe the worst front test for the bipod) or this change in accuracy has to be due to something else? I am pretty sure that on grass or more consistent dirt results would be better but here in Italy is very difficult to try it. I want to understand if this has to be expected or if this rifle for some reasons is less forgiving in regard to not ideal recoil management due to uneven or yielding terrain
2) a half moa gun, assuming at least that the crosshair doesn’t move on the target, which kind of Max group spread is expected to produce in field conditions, prone and with a bipod resting on gravel or on a similar not consistent surface?
3) I would get better results and less accuracy loss using another bipod (not a harris) with more play in its legs so i can load it and this way the terrain could impact less on the accuracy of the rifle? In this case which are pros and cons of other types of bipods?

I should add that the scope seems not to be the issue (tracks well, never lost zero even despite a solid bang it took the other day), the rifle is reliable and well balanced, all screws are tight to specs and the ammo are of the same lot

New in the box, never opened Really Right Stuff Cinch LR Bino Mount. $40 TYD USPS Priority. PayPal friends and family with no note.

Happy 250th Birthday to the strongest Army in the world!!
If you had served in the United States Army, post what years you served in this amazing 250 years!!
I will start us off:
Active Duty-Military Police, 2001-2024